AON

I had to Google Long-Sault and see you are out by Cornwall.

I've dealt with Exotic Woods in Burlington (by Hamilton) but not mail order nor cut/milled to size.

Give them a phone call and discuss what you need.

I found the website helpful and them very helpful over the telephone... but I drove over (45 mins) and picked up what I needed.

Looks like you'll be getting some awesome practise in with you're milling machine!

I understand the front framed plexiglass panel being held by magnets so it can be removed easily.

I suspect the plexiglass will keep the wood frame from warping.

Possibly a thin felt gasket glued on the inside edge to keep the dust out?

I confess I like your design.

You could employ a more traditional floating base... a open backed box that slips over the strong support that is bolted to the wall.

That way if someone looks underneath they see a finished face.

A set of strong magnets (or screws) could secure the "box" to the "support".

Mike

Too bad you are half a world away as I'd offer up time with my tools in my play room.

I completely understand and appreciate the feeling of discovering the beauty hidden inside ordinary wood.

I can attest to the fact that even after 41 years...

even when I'm right I am wrong.

what is her's is her's and what is mine is her's.

only one opinion really matters.

she's a damned good cook.

she can balance the books.

she knows how to save a buck.

I'd be lost without her.

She doesn't know how to build a model ship (and she's convinced I'm faking it)

Sunday 13 Nov 2016

I managed to sand and install the last two chocks.  My first attempt at sanding ended in the part disappearing under the stop (because it was so thin at 0.02" or 0.46mm) and being sucked up by the vacuum.  The chocks are hemlock and measure 10" in height (approx 5/32").  They are 9" on the plan but at this build scale who can tell the difference.

Drilled and installed the bolts into the frame and through the chocks then trimmed flush.

Cut and milled a blank of Costello 0.079" thick for the next frame set.  Cut that length in half and rubber glued them together, clamped and ready to trace the template and cut the frame pieces in matching pairs.

All: Thank you for he likes.  It is very encouraging.  I was telling my darling wife about the missing last chock and even she asked: "will anyone see it?".... I could only respond that I see it now.

Carl:  so do I!  It is because they are cant frames.  Once I get out of this area (and those at the bow) I should be "smoother sailing".

Saturday 12 Nov 2016

Been away from it too long but feeling up to it again.

Today I fitted the chocks between the frames.  Presently the glue is drying and setting.

Tomorrow I will drill and install the bolts and start on the next set of frames.

I chose to install the top most chock first to set the space properly.

Subsequent (lower) installations were a bit of a challenge as the more I installed the less I could pry the frame open to receive the chock.

Each was sanded down to fit snugly.  I filed vertical grooves (pockets) into the chocks to hold the glue because most would be scraped away as the chock was slid into place.

The lowest ones were the worst as they were very thin.  I wanted to installed one more lower as they should be in groups of three between joints but it was a bit too thin for me.  I might try tomorrow when I'm fresh.

Presently the whole table is covered to keep the dust off over night. I do this after every session.

I can find nothing of the detail your asking for.

I have copies of standing rigging from here:  http://www.modelexpo-online.com/images/docs/MS2260/MS2260-Syren-Instructions-Chapter-18.pdf

but it is American (US Brig Syren 1803)  and somethings don't agree with other books I have.

You might like to review it just the same though.

Sorry I was of no help... and late to boot.

did you say you had Rigging Period Model Ships by Lennarth Petersson, Chatham Publishing, London, 2000,  ISBN 1 86176 061 2  ?

That certainly looks like a solution.

I haven't had any luck finding it as yet amoungst my mess of data.... but I have learnt I need to organize it all better.

I may have something but it will take awhile to dig out as I am nowhere near this point in my build but have been collecting info for two years.

If someone beats me to it you can bet I'll add their info to my "library".

Thank you Jason.

I would have responded earlier but I threw my back out Friday morning and this is the first I could sit at the computer.

It is aching a bit so I going to be gone a bit yet.

An actual miniature eye splice... I've dreamt of doing this but having made many a splice in real life lines of various sizes with fingers, feet, fig and spike I have a feeling it will remain in my dreams

My copy of The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lee covers quite a bit of this.  The diagrams are very helpful but when then don't exist the verbage needs re-reading multiple times before I can start to make some sense of it.  If you need anything from it in particular just ask and I'll be there for you.

I'll look at the section for the bowsprit rigging tonight and then PM info to you.

Yes, if you are offering a copy of the photos I am gathering everything I can to help me with my build.

Time for me to get off to work.

Why thank you.  It must be one of the side effects of smoking a pipe.  The same thing happens when you drink too many tots of rum and then look in the mirror.

I am happy to have helped.  Your rigging photos are my cheat sheets for 5 years from now.

I will PM you what I have.

Thank you Mark and Druxey.

Re: the nuts.... the are very manly. 

Sunday 16 Oct 2016

Some minor progress.  This is much harder than it seems.  I hope to be better at framing soon.

I wouldn't dream of telling you how to do it.

You keep on experimenting and reporting and I'll keep learning!

Monday 10 Oct 2016

Leave it to a Theatrical fellow to (almost) quote George Shaw.  I think I almost do Druxey... the tutorial earlier in the year didn't hurt much.  In fact it certainly helped today.

I tackled Frames 28... after having woken up to +2°C and decided I best close the water fountain off the patio, drain the garden hoses and blow out the sprinkler system this morning.  It may be early but if I wait much longer it will only get colder and less enjoyable to do.

I bevelled the scarph joint... in the correct direction (almost screwed it up).  I also left the overall length about  8" (1/8" or 3mm) proud at the top (head).

I will put it up tonight or tomorrow.  I want to let the glue dry thoroughly as I still need to taper the thickness slightly.

Should mention I did each of these individually and then when almost done I remembered Druxey's trick off gluing two pieces of wood together (rubber glue) and cutting in pairs to save time.  I will try this next time!

Sunday 9 Oct 2016

I did manage to steal a few hours for myself (between peeling potatoes and washing dishes... and eating... Happy Thanksgiving to all fellow Canuks out there) to complete the last group of three pairs of short cant frames.

There were three scrapped pieces and a fourth that flew away from me from the sanding belt.  I searched for it for about 10 minutes and finally gave up and cut out a new piece. As I turned around to go back to the other end of the room I saw it in the chippings on the floor around the planer.  I made a new piece and as it was better I threw the old one out.

I have a magnifying glass attached to my scroll saw table to help me focus on my cuts. I find it helps tremendously as I also have early stages of macular degeneration in my left eye and it plays havoc with lines. 

Here are some photos.  Going to try frame 28 today.  It is a long one with one bevelled joint.

How many left to go?

I would think just enough to make me a pro... at at least extremely competent. 

​Today my son and daughter will be over for our thankgiving day dinner.

TGD in Canada is actually tommorrow but when everyone has other plans you adapt.

Saturday 08 OCT 2016

It took me three tries but the third was the charm.

The secret seems to be measure 50 times and cut minuscule slices and sand microscopic bits off until it fits.

Following that rule of thumb the others worked out fine!

Had to stop after three sets as my upper back, between my shoulder blades is getting sore.  It all relates to my neck fusion.  I'll be good to go again after a short bit of rest.

Thank you for saying so.

It is somewhat comforting to know I am no better than the best.   

I actually feel quite good about this first effort.... but if it is going to take three or more tries I may change my mind    

Friday 07 OCT 2016

Made my very first frame today.  Frame 28-Aft.  A short frame that runs from the stern deadwood to the lower group of transom pieces.   

Turned out better than I thought it would... but it is scrap.  Everything is perfect except for the fit of the foot to the dead wood which you can see in the photos.  The head mates perfectly.  The thickness tapers perfectly.  It is just the fit down below. 

I can't even hide it under the keelson as it stops just before frame 28.   

Let's see what I can manage the second time, eh? 

Gorgeous!