AON

Mark and Gary,

Thank you for the suggestions.  I understand both... your explanations were very clear.

I find sanding on a stationary grit platform works well until the pieces get so small I start sanding my finger tips!

So I tried putting the tiny piece on the stationary grit and used a sanding board above.

Normally the small piece stays stationary if the bottom paper's grit is large enough to hold it and the sanding board above does all the work.

Some times the small piece rolls.  That is when it gets frustrating.  This happens with my tiny chocks that fit between frames as some are very thin.

 I've thought of trying double sided tape.

As soon as I started cutting out the gunport with one end open I started to worry about the top half breaking away.

My original idea was to assembly with a roughed in opening and then sand to a scribed line.

At least this way the gunport would be closed on four sides and better supported/stiffened.

I listened to people in our club that had some experience as I have none.

(Of course this was the day David Antscherl couldn't make the meeting)

It must have worked well for them, but leaves me worried every time I draw on the saw.

I had to go very very lightly.

I am committed with this method on this set and the one above but will revert to my original method on the next set to see if it is any better.

I really want to install the gunports as the timbers go up.

I will try the card stock method to get a better fit on the cill.

On another note.  The photo shows every deformity.

Looking at it in real life is a whole other story.  That last upper cill looks pretty darned good and I might keep it.

I'll work on the lower cill and see if I feel the same way by the weekend.

Good morning Carl.

I only use the template to check layout and check the gunport opening.

The cill is beveled slightly and checked for fit, sharpened a bit and checked again, and repeated.

Once it is close I mark off the length and start the bevel process on the other end, keeping the length a wee bit proud (too long).

When that seems correct then I shorten the length sanding at an angle and checking the fit very often.

Once I have that then I sand the thickness.

This last one was exactly 6" thick... I almost went too far.

That was my original plan but at the last MSoN meeting they suggested this method.  I forsee other cutting out issues at the moment and may flip back on the third set of gunports

getting better.

It was a very busy weekend and I didn't get to put in the time on the ship I had thought I might.

After transferring/marking the four corners I filed and sanded one gunport.  Double checked it with my gauge which nearly slides in.  I fear if I work at it much more it might be too large.

I then worked at a trial for the gunport upper cill using a piece of scrap hemlock.  The height thickness is 6" (0.094" or 2.4 mm).  I cut the length a bit longer and then placed in on a strip of rough sand paper to hold it in place while I sanded it from above using a sanding stick, checking the thickness with my caliper as I went along.  I wasn't worried about it being exact thickness, having it a wee bit thicker is better than too thin.

I bevelled one end and it seemed to fit well but it could not be inserted because the piece was still too long.  I transferred/marked off the length and then sanded it down while bevelling.  I kept trying the fit until I had the length correct... but you can see the bevel is all wrong.

I need to work at this to get a better fitting cill.  Once I figure this out I have the joy of the lower cill.  I will not shaped the port gunport until I get this one figured out.

Regarding not enough clamps: I know the feeling well, even when you have enough they are the wrong size.

Regarding fit and cockeyed: I am sure the actual ship was not perfectly symmetrical, and they had gaps by design that were stuffed to make her water tight. 

Sometimes I believe we strive too much for perfection.  It is difficult enough just trying to be human.

She looks beautiful to me.

Thank you all for the encouragement.  After the slow go of it (too many irons in the fire... one being a four letter word - WORK), I welcome it all.

I try to concentrate on others claims , it is not a race; treat every part as a model.  I hope I never loose sight of those words.

As for fairing... dare I think of the time. It seems to be ages away but there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

I retire on November 30th so I like to think I'll have all the time in the world then.

But alas the retired fellas in the modelling club tell me I'm wrong.

Thank you for visiting.

It was September 25th when I tore all the frames off back to the transom and filler pieces.

Today is January 28th and I have finally caught up and installed one frame beyond with another set glued together and drying.

It has been slow going.

The gunport has been cut out, filed to size, checked with my port gauge and will be filed to receive the timbers (upper and lower cills) to finish it off as soon as I get the mating frame in and they have had time to set.

I appreciate the incremental postings.  Please do not stop.

I don't know if I should be looking at your ship or your shop.

Both make me jealous.

Me likey Mikey!  

I think you did a fantastic job.

Holy moly!  No time for the barnacles to attach to your bottom, eh?

That is quick work.

Looking forward to watching your progress

We remain our own worst critics.

If I had your talent I could throw mine in my scrap wood pile  

perfect

Mark,

I stumbled on the information while trying to figure out what was in his left hand.  Then, while transcribing hundreds of old newspaper reports on the comings, goings and actions of the Bellerophon I stumbled upon the report of the loss of her figurehead.

Good morning all and thank you for the likes.

Mark: those figurehead images you are looking at are the second figurehead made for the first ship.

The first figurehead is described as: Before it was damaged the figurehead represented Bellerophon as a nude figure draped in a red cloak riding Pegasus, his right arm raised, holding a javelin. The horse’s wings were spread. (source: http://figureheads.ukmcs.org.uk/?p=1715 )

On 14 July 1793, southwest of Scilly Isles HMS Bellerophon collided with HMS Majestic in gale force winds where she lost her bowsprit, foremast, main top mast, figurehead and cutwater was smashed.  The figure head was replaced with something a bit simpler as the Royal Navy was issuing orders to try and control the expense on ornamental carvings on the ships of the time.

All that remains of the second figurehead of the first ship named Bellerophon, is the head seen in many photos, which was all that could be salvaged due to rot.

Alan

Well, here we are in December and I'd like to say I'm caught up to where I was but it ain't so.

I practised a bit with bevelling my chock joints in the cant frames and found a method that seems to work for me.

First I sand the chock bevel with the table disc sander, table angled to get it set proper.

Then my I mark off the depth on the futtocks.

(I tried using my scroll saw with the table tilted but it only works on one side and not the other)

I cut an angled relief to the line and then using a sanding stick file it down... bevelled, to near the line.

Check the angle with the chock, all placed on the marble slab I stole from the kitchen to keep it flat.

Then I finish with a file and sharpen the corner with a chisel.

The figure (sailor) is my Grandfather.

I have two frames together and made pieces for eight more.

I hope to get caught up over the Christmas holiday.

Looking ahead.... I've also been researching the original figurehead, for which there seems to be only a description but know sketches.

Bellerophon on Pegasus with his spear.  I've signed up for a bird carving course at Lee Valley Tools in Niagara Falls, Ontario, in February, to help me try to carve my figurehead in the years to come.  I also purchased Bill Short's rotary carve techniques PDF Booklet "The New Carving Ornamentation for Ship Models" found on the forum home page bottom right hand side.  Seems I have reading to do also.  Might attempt rotary carving the other figures. But again that is years from now so I have time to become an expert... or possibly just good enough.

re: 1/2" dowels, slots and screws.

I hadn't noticed the details.

Had to zoom in and there it is, nice holding/clamping jig!

There was a news article about a painting discovered of Nelson that hadn't been touched up.

He didn't have an eye patch but was blinded in one eye and had a wicked scar above his eyebrow.

Regarding tiny sailors on the model.  I've been thinking about one at the head on the seat of ease to help explain what those boxes are (seriously).

I thought I was reading poetry for a moment. 

These are the tips I snip and paste into my reference library.

When I ever get to this stage I'd never remember them!

Thank you.

This is where the 3D programs come in handy for templates of sheet metal work.

If the outside of the hull were given a thickness (or thin-ness!) the program would create a flat view of true length as a pattern.

Having said that, and knowing the build versus the plan are three different things, I'd like to think that I'd measure off the build and plot it as you're doing.

Rough blanks and trim to fit.

In the old pencil draughting days we'd calculate the distances and then create (plot) the flat (pattern) view.

Alan

Tried to send you a PM to check if I am on your workshop notice distribution list but the system tells me you cannot receive any more messages.

This is what I've seen as sculptures/statues/stamp that might represent what it looked like.

You can understand why I feel it was crowded around all the standing and running rigging at the bow.