WASHINGTON GALLEY by yamsterman - 1/48 scale - POF

[druxey]

Ah, yes, Mick: the alcohol and invective solution!

[yamsterman]

hi don

false keel cut from 3/16 x 1/16 stock

 

hog cut from 3/32 x 3/16 stock as a seperate piece on top of the keel.......makes it easier to cut the rebate in the keel this way.

 

ask as many questions as you like,hopefully i will be able to provide an answer but if i cant we can throw it out to the forum.......bound to find out the answer!!!!

cheers....mick

[Chuck Seiler]

IS THE HOG AND FALSE KEEL CUT OUT OF the 3/16in stock, the problem I have is I can not visulize were to make the frame cuts do I cut it from the top the 3/16 top. I HOPE I AM EXPLAINING IT OK, also jeff does not give any dimensions like for the keelson etc , also DAN PARISER from the NRG is MY MENTOR GREAt, GREAT HELP ALWAYS AVAILABLE WHEN NEEDED THANKS Don

Don,

 

    I too am working on the WASHINGTON.  I plan to unveil my build log on 11 October.  That date should have some significance to all you Washington and Philadelphia builders.

 

    I made the keel/hogging and rising wood from the same piece.  Using my Byrnes Saw I cut a slot that I will eventually work into the rabbet.  To determine where to make the cuts, I cut a section of the keel/rising wood from the plans and glued it to the piece using rubber cement.  Normal glue causes it to stretch too much.  Prior to this, I marked the cut points on to the wood using the section of the plan that is glued to the build board.  This ensures that the paper glued to the keel lines up with the frame location on the build board.  It took some doing, but I was able to do it.

 

    All this requires that you have enough copies of the plan.  NEVER CUT UP YOUR ORIGINAL.  I take my plans to a reprographics center which gives precise duplication.  Places like Kinkos can be off a percentage or two.  On some of my models that doesn't matter.  Here it does.  The downside is that they will not reproduce any copyrighted material unless you have permission.  The upside is that NRG provides a permission letter.

 

    Once I have the plan affixed to the keel, I use my Byrnes Saw as a mill, much as Mick did.

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

Don....why not actually start a build log of your own.  I do think it would be much better and so not to have kinda to builds going on in one topic.  I think it would be easier to ask your questions that way.  We would all love to see your Washington develop and progress. 

 

Chuck

[mtaylor]

Don,

I sent you a PM on the re-sizing problem rather than hijack Mick's topic.

[yamsterman]

hi don

ive sent you a pm with an answer , or two! , too your question.

only to glad to offer what assistance i can

cheers...mick

[yamsterman]

hi mark

thanks!

cheers....mick

[yamsterman]

WASHINGTON GALLEY  PART 8 CANT FRAMES

 

 

HI ALL

ABOUT TIME FOR ANOTHER UPDATE. BEEN DISTRACTED BUILDING FURNITURE FOR ONE OF THE LADS I WORK WITH AND STARTED BUILDING ANOTHER PROJECT......18 CENTURY LANTERN CLOCK .

 

HOWEVER ITS TIME TO GET TO GRIPS WITH THE FORWARD CANT FRAMES.....AWKWARD LITTLE SWINES!!!!

 

FIRST PAIR HAVE BEEN SET.....WAITING FOR THE GLUE TO DRY....NEXT TWO PAIRS WAITING TO GO IN.

 

PHOTOS ATTACHED.....COMMENTS ,CRITISMS...HOWLS OF DERISON GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

 

THE ONE THING I WILL BE DOING IS REPLACING THE LOW ENERGY BULB IN THE SPARE ROOM WITH AN LED BULB...A BRIGHT WHITE ONE......IT SEEMS THAT THE CURRENT BULB IS TOO YELLOW HENCE THE CRAPPY PHOTOS.

 

 I ALSO REPLACED THE PREVIOUSLY MADE WOODEN JIGS WITH SOME MADE FROM 5MM ACRYLIC,IT WAS LURKING IN A CORNER AT WORK SO IT HAD TO GO!

THE WOODEN ONES WERE FAR TOO CUMBERSOME TO FIT IN THE FAIRLY TIGHT SPACE AT THE BOW,

 

THATS ABOUT IT FOR NOW........MORE CANT FRAMES TOO FIT!

CHEERS.....MICK

[cog]

Looking good Mick ... I like that acrylic support/jiggamathing! Give a nice clear view too

 

Cheers

Edited November 27, 2015 by cog

[Omega1234]

Hi Mike

 

Beautiful work! I also love the Acrylic jig.

 

Cheers and all the best!

 

Patrick

Edited November 28, 2015 by Omega1234

[yamsterman]

hi carl and Patrick

had to have a rethink with the support jigs for the cant frames........the original wooden ones were far too "clunky".......theres not much space at the front end so something thinner was required........the acrylic was stuffed up a corner in the engineers shop at work.......so it was duly liberated,with permission of course! and is now stuffed up a corner in my workshop..........useful stuff!

 

more cant frames to do this weekend and then on to the hawse pieces.......should prove interesting and frustrating in equal measure.

 

cheers for now.......mick

[albert]

Hi Mike, beautiful work.

[yamsterman]

hi albert

many thanks....early days yet but those cant frames are proving somthing of a pain!

cheers....mick

[dvm27]

One of the conundrums of plank of frame building is that the more difficult areas of construction, the cants and hawse timbers, are addressed before the relatively easier full frames. Setting the cant frames at the proper angles as well as aligning with the half-breadth can be very challenging. I'd use the lucite jig on the fore face of the cant to insure the angle and a machinist square (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H2993-Machinists-Square-4-Piece/dp/B0000DD4EE) to align with the haft breadth on the plan. I also leave a little extra wood on the fore face, as over-bevelling prior to fairing can cause major issues. Finally, don't be afraid to use isopropyl alcohol to remove a cant or hawse timber that doesn't look right. I don't know many plank on frame builders who have not had to redo one (or multiple) cants or hawse timbers.

[AON]

Can you flip your plexiglas supports around?

I realize the gusset backing will be in the way but possibly you need only half of the support?

[yamsterman]

hi alan

ha ha ....hadnt thought of the obvious.......will see if lifes easier with them the other way round!

bit of a DOH!!!!!!  moment.......nice one!

cheers....mick

[yamsterman]

hi greg

life may suddenly become a little easier if I follow alans suggestion in the previous post.........ive bevelled the cants to just outside the printed line on the plan.....so with the thickness of the line as well there should be enough meat left on for final fairing........but if not then the iso will be unleashed and frames remade.........I need the practice prior to starting the echo cross section...and swan....and euryalus....and half a dozen ancre publications

 

should keep me busy till I'm feeble in the cerebral!!!

 

on a different note ive been lurking in the shadows watching your hms speedwell build........plans in the pipeline at any point soonish?

 

the framing seems a lot more complex than ron McCarthy envisaged in his book building hms cruiser

 

I'm presuming that speedwell was the 1752-53 program for 140 ton sloops......ref to ian mclaughlins book pg 213 ?

 

which would make her contemporary with cruiser,wolf and happy albeit with minor differences.

 

I do have the nmm draught for cruiser but my draughtsmanship skills are primitive to say the least hence the question regarding plans.

 

look forward to following your outstanding work on speedwell.

 

cheers....mick

[AON]

Sometimes we are just to close and involved to see "outside the box"... that is where an extra set of eyes come in handy.

I like the 'see through' option of the plexiglas

I also have a set of machinist's squares and find them very handy

So I am torn between Greg's suggestion and what you are doing!

[yamsterman]

hi alan

the machinists squares do come in handy ......I have about four pairs in different sizes......the awkward bit is keeping the base of the cant frame fixed to the deadwood as there is no rebate for it to sit in its just glued to the deadwood......and then keeping the lower water line at the right height.....turns into a juggling act.

I can see where the square comes in....but the frame still needs to be clamped in some way to hold it in position......I have a multiplicity of clamps.....but none the right size!!!!  even my smallest toolmakers clamps are too big ( 1" capacity) not too mention far too heavy......this is a small model even in 1/48 scale.

 

I think some time spent making some clamps a la EDTs build logs would be time well spent!

 

on reflection I should have gone for acrylic supports for the stern and bow aswell as they could have been made less cumbersome.....I may well rejig before I go any further.

 

thanks for the second pair of eyes!!!

 

cheers....mick

[yamsterman]

HI ALL

WORK ON THE CANT FRAMES CONTINUES......NEXT PAIR HAVE BEEN FITTED.

 

THE ACRYLIC JIGS HAVE HAD A LINE SCRIBED ACROSS AT THE LWL LEVEL....HOPE THIS SHOWS IN THE PHOTOS.

 

THE NEXT TWO PAIRS OF CANT FRAMES WILL HAVE TO BE SUPPORTED BY A FRESH PAIR OF JIGS.......THIS AFTERNOONS JOB WHILST THE GLUES SETTING......UNFORTUNATELY DESPITE ALANS SUGGESTION TURNING THE CURRENT JIGS AROUND MEANS I CANT GET MY CLAMPS IN PLACE.

 

NOT A MAJOR PROBLEM THE BYRNES SAW WILL MAKE SHORT WORK OF MAKING A NEW SET......I SHOULD OF GIVEN MUCH MORE THOUGHT TO THESE JIGS IN THE FIRST PLACE........FILE THAT IN THE MEMORY BANKS FOR THE NEXT BUILD!

 

ANYWAY PHOTOS ENCLOSED FOR YOUR DELICTATION.

 

CHEERS.....MICK

[AON]

the scribed line is quite clear.

looking foward to seeing the next generation of jigs as it might be worth copying

(I thought the first generation was ingenious)

[yamsterman]

hi alan

already made and in use! upload some more photos later when the camera batteries finished recharging.

 

cheers....mick

[yamsterman]

HI ALL

NEW JIGS ARE IN USE......LAST PAIR OF CANTS DUE TO BE FITTED THIS EVENING AND THEN WE MOVE ON TO THE HAWSE PIECES.

 

BACK TO WORK FOR THE NEXT FOUR NIGHTS SO NO MORE UPDATES FOR A WHILE!

 

PHOTOS ENCLOSED

 

CHEERS.....MICK

[Canute]

Click! Light bulb on now.

 

One picture (or in this case a series) does the trick. Thanks, Mick!

[yamsterman]

hi ken

glad to be of help.......somewhat mystified as to which picture was of help???

cheers....mick

[Canute]

Mick, the first few and the ones showing the overall acrylic supports for the cant frames on top of your build board. Wasn't visualizing the supports until I looked at the overall ones. Takes a while to get stuff drilled into this Irish-Sicilian skull.

[dgbot]

Mick, your fixtures are a keeper thanks for the photos.

David B

[yamsterman]

hi ken and dave

glad to be of any help with my heath robinson jigs. it would have been better if I had left another 1- 1 1/2 inchs between the stem and the stem support.......would have provided much better access to the cant frames.......we live and learn hopefully!

cheers....mick

[cog]

Not much stuffin' up, Mick ... i.e. the acrylic ... Now you find 1" - 1.5" more would be nice ... in your next build you will probably find another option ... we just keep on learning, and the more builds we seee ... the more we might learn - it's just a matter of retention ... (sometimes I feel like a colander with hughe apertures)

 

Cheers

[yamsterman]

hi carl

the "colander effect" is well known to me.....age related i think!!!!!

cheers...mick