Gokstad Viking Ship by jack.aubrey - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Kits - 1:35 Scale

[jack.aubrey]

A complex piece made with hard wood from which I got the two brackets to support the hull. They will be placed over the display case basement.

 

01 20160721_171347.jpg

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With a cut made in the right place, done with the yable saw, I got the two pieces shown here below which will hold the keel on the basement shown in the previous message. 

 

Now I have to drill them to accommodate the keel holding screw. 

 

Then I'll paint them dark red (same color of the shields). 

 

To be finally fixed on the basement in the correct position.

 

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Cheers, Jack.

 

My personal assistant to check the proper progresses of my work in its strategic role as project supervisor . .

 

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Edited August 6, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Hi Jack, I just want to say what a beautiful job you are doing on the Gokstad. I have been building the same kit for the last week and I find I am constantly turning to your log to see how you've done things. So I really appreciate your step by step details. I hope you also show the rest of your plexiglass showcase construction as I have a few I need to build.

 

One area that slows me down is how to finish the planks at the bow and stern. When you look at the reconstructed real ship it is evident that they carried the clinker plank overlap right to the ends. I think that's how the clinker system is supposed to work. So far (first 4 planks including the garboard) I am ending the overlap a few centimeters before terminating the planks so that they are edge to edge as they seat into a rabet that I cut. The way the final ribs are cut doesn't seem to invite the planks overlapping at the ends.

 

Anyway beautiful job!

 

Regards, Ian

 

Hi Ian, first of all many thanks for your appreciatons . .

 

Regarding the planking at bow and stern I'm still a little bit confused. My understanding is that at the end the planks seem not to overlap but are gradually aligned edge to edge.

The following image shows what I mean probably better that thousand words.

What I don't have clear is HOW they got this result . .   

[jack.aubrey]

Saturday, July 23, 2016

 

Positioning test to verify if the size of the basement is right . . . Well, the oars are there, then the size is right.

 

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Today I painted the basement frame, the underlying pins and the keel holding blocks with an acrylic dark red paint. 

 

Finally I glued in the final position the two blocks with a bi-component epoxy glue. 

 

Now only the plexiglass is missing to complete the display case, but I have to wait 'cause I need to install the mast to define the correct height of the case.

 

Edited August 6, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

In effect I'm working to build the seats for the oarsmen, they are 50% ready, I only need to find a way to realistically simulate the kind of cushions or covers over the boxes, as shown in the following picture . .

[jack.aubrey]

My attempt to model the seats for the oarsmen.

 

In practice this is the famous "sailor's box" where the owner kept his personal belongings with a blanket added over its cover to soften the sit. When the ship run with sail the whole was stored under the deck planking.

 

01 20160724_113853.jpg

02 20160724_113916.jpg

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Here below the reference image for my idea. .

 

04 Viking ship with seats_zpsbw6yliot.jpg

 

Edited August 6, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

: : : : : :

 

A batch of images of the model installed in its case, with all the oars shown. The base of the case is almost completed, except for one thing which will be discussed later. Till now I'll focus on definitely fixing the pieces located on the deck and to finish the seats for the oarsmen.

 

With respect of the element mentioned above, I have found that if I don't find an elegant way to keep held the oars, they tend to move easily from their original place. So I'm thinking at a kind of guidance with joints where inserting the blades of the oars. Obviously it must be a minimal and simple structure, which must not attract the attention of a hypothetical observer, other the whole may be disturbed.

 

Finally I think one or more plates with the model name and more.

 

01 20160724_113743.jpg

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Edited August 6, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[Seventynet]

Absolutely beautiful Jack.

 

Regards, Ian

[cobra1951]

I love this little boat

[mtaylor]

Looks great, Jack.   Since it's on the base, would a spot of glue where the oar goes through the hull and another under the bladetip work?   Off the top of my head, that's all I can think of.   

[jack.aubrey]

Wednesday, July 27, 2016

 

Another small step forward: I finished the building of the oarsmen's seats and sailor's boxes and, after giving a coat of clear matt paint to the deck, I proceeded to glue them in the same way of the drawing I reproduced some messages ago. Then, considering that hardly the viking warriors were equipped with common uniforms, I thought to paint with different colors the various blankets over the boxes.

 

An additional note of color most probably plausible . .

 

Then I continued to permanently fix the other superstructures on the deck: the two lateral mast holders and the mast foot where the mast is inserted and held when the ship runs with sails.

 

Now the most important, and still missing piece, is the rudder, after which the close of the shipyard is approaching more and more . .

 

01 20160727_173237.jpg

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Edited August 6, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Looks great, Jack.   Since it's on the base, would a spot of glue where the oar goes through the hull and another under the bladetip work?   Off the top of my head, that's all I can think of.

Hi Mark, thank for your suggestion but I don't like it 'cause it forces to permanently fix with glue the oars . . and I prefer to avoid this fact.

 

I'm thinking to a plexiglass curved bar, +/- 8mm height, with its shape following the sides of the ship and with several slots where the bladetips should rest. This bar should be glued on the basement at the proper distance from the ship sides, close to the oar bladetips. Being it transparent should not interfere too much with the whole . . 

 

Another (and simpler) solution shuld be to use wood instead of plexiglass, provided it has the same color of the basement . .

 

What do you think ? Thanks Jack.

 

PS: thank to all of you for your comments and likes.

 

[cog]

Jack,

 

I lost sight of this build, unfortunately. You've done some wonderful work. A nice staining tutorial too.

 

Maybe something like this is an option: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/335-hmc-sherbourne-1763-by-tkay11-%E2%80%93-caldercraft-%E2%80%93-scale-164-a-novice%E2%80%99s-caldercraft-sherbourne/page-14#entry429052 I found it a very elegant method, and you could have the oars at a natural angle ...

 

Cheers

[jack.aubrey]

Saturday, July 30th, 2016 - Rudder

 

Today I've finished and installed the rudder . . next steps mast and sail.

 

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Edited August 6, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Thursday, August 4, 2016

 

The first image shows the devices installed inside the ship to "plug" the hole in the hull where the oars were strung when they proceeded without sail. To the left of the pic the device in the "open" position and to the right the device when closed . . 

 

01 2_zpsmqtptlpn.JPG

 

Here below my personal interpretation: obviously it was not possible for me to make an exact replica of this device given the very small size (diameter 4mm) of it.

 

02 20160804_173737.jpg

03 20160804_173730.jpg

 

Inizio dell'ultima fatica, preparazione della vela e installazione dell'alberatura . . per ora la vela (è la prima che provo a cucire . . .) fissata sul pennone, e poi alcuni dettagli . . 

 

Begin of the last effort, preparation and installation of the sail and yard . . now the sail (the first I try to sew...) mounted on the yard, and then some details . .

 

04 20160804_173651.jpg

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Cheers, Jack.

 

Edited August 7, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Wednesday, August 10, 2016

 

I fixed the mast to the hull and I completed the "standing rigging", even if on Viking ship wasn't always "standing".

 

01 20160809_205044.jpg

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Cheers, Jack.

 

Edited August 7, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[cobra1951]

Excellent workmanship

[Seventynet]

Beautiful work indeed! Thanks for showing me the way.

 

Ian

[jack.aubrey]

Thursday, August 11, 2016

 

Here follow images of the model almost finished, only the plexiglas cover and the oars cradles on the basement are missing.

 

Rgds, Jack.

 

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06 20160811_155636.jpg

 

Edited August 7, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[donrobinson]

Very nice Jack, well done

[jack.aubrey]

Additional images of this ship, same status as yesterday . .

 

07 20160811_155554.jpg

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Edited August 7, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[amateur]

Where are the vikings ?

Nice way of displaying!

 

Jan

[jack.aubrey]

Friday, August 19, 2016

 

The basement of the "display case" finished . . now only the plexiglas cover is missing.

 

01 20160819_143241.jpg

 

Details of the device for housing the oars, with the grooves to hold them in position at the correct distance.

 

02 20160819_143253.jpg

03 20160819_143304.jpg

 

That's all for now.

 

Most probably you will not have further news for some time.

 

The plexiglas cover will be made by a craftsman specialized on this kind of tasks and I have no idea about the time it will take to make it . . 

 

Only then I will be able to shot some final images of the entire, finished model.

 

Cheers, Jack.

 

Edited August 7, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[gjdale]

Neat idea for the oars support Jack. Looking forward to seeing the final photos.

[Louie da fly]

Very nice build, Jack. It'll be good to see it all displayed.

 

I envy you only having to make 30 oars. My dromon has 100, and I don't have a lathe. I'm up to 36 so far . . .

Edited August 21, 2016 by Louie da fly

[jack.aubrey]

Very nice build, Jack. It'll be good to see it all displayed.

 

I envy you only having to make 30 oars. My dromon has 100, and I don't have a lathe. I'm up to 36 so far . . .

 

Good luck with your 100 oars . . . for me 32 oars plus a tenth broken was enough . . 

Rgds, Jack.

[Louie da fly]

I've broken and thrown away maybe 5 or 6 oars, but on purpose - they weren't good enough. I find that when I try to hurry, the quality goes down dramatically. Trouble is, I keep forgetting the lesson and have to re-learn it by messing up good oar-blanks.

[Seventynet]

That's a nice solution for the oars Jack. I may copy that if you haven't patented it yet .

​

Regards, Ian

[Louie da fly]

Torbogdan, do Dusek specify the shapes of the bireme's oars? You might like to have a look at the contemporary representations of Ancient Greek galley oars among the images here.

 

While doing my dromon, I've got very interested in oar shapes. I've made mine as close as I can to contemporary representations, but as no oars have ever been found, it's largely educated guesswork.

 

Steven

[jack.aubrey]

Torbogdan, do Dusek specify the shapes of the bireme's oars? You might like to have a look at the contemporary representations of Ancient Greek galley oars among the images here.

 

While doing my dromon, I've got very interested in oar shapes. I've made mine as close as I can to contemporary representations, but as no oars have ever been found, it's largely educated guesswork.

 

Steven

 

On top of this picture is shown the shape of the viking oars for this ship. Some were found inside the wreck in Gokstad.

As you can see they do not correspond to the oars I made. They are much more simple and primitive (in shape) vs mine. I preferred for my model a more "classic" but recent oar shape, more suitable to build with a lathe.

The plan contained in the kit from Dusek reports the same shape you can see in this picture.  

[Louie da fly]

I'd never seen these oars before - thanks very much for posting them. But are those other things steering oars? It seems strange that there are three of them for a single ship.

 

Steven