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Posted

Hi,

 

I think a lot of us have already encountered this problem ...

The needle files look a bit rusty and are in need to be cleaned.

 

Can I do this with some machine oil ?

If yes, will the oil not stain the wood afterwards ?

If no, what are the experts and masters among us, use for that purpose ?

 

Happy modelling !

Keep on modelling,

Marc

Posted

The easiest way to clean a file is to use a piece of brass.  Push the end of a brass rod along the teeth of the file (i.e. shortways across the file not along the length of the whole file) so that the brass pushes any dirt along and out from between the teeth of the file.  The brass rod will soon form to the shape of the teeth and a few "pushes" throughout the length of the file will soon have it clean.

 

Any light rusting will also be pushed out of the way.  Heavy rusting can be removed by soaking the file in acid (try dilute citric acid which is safe and can be obtained form the chemist as crystals) followed by rinsing in running water and drying with warm air (maybe a hair dryer?).  Don't oil the file as the oil will transfer to the wood and stain it.

Posted

Clean with a clean, fairly stiff, stainless steel brush.  A light coat of oil will keep the files from rusting.  Wipe off with alcohol or acetone before using to remove the oil residue.

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

Posted

The wire brush is good on large files but on my fine tooth needle files, the brush is too course to do any good.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

  • 7 years later...
Posted

What is the microwave-oven supposed to do? It doesn't do anything to metal swarf and won't burn away wood.

 

There are special file brushes made from stiff brass wire, but as captainbob observed, they don't really work on the fine cuts of files, the diameter of the wires being larger than the teeth are wide.

 

Don't even think of using acid on a file, that would be the death of it. You can soak it in (used) tea-leaves for a while to remove rust. Make sure to dry it quickly with a hair-dryer afterwards.

 

Files shouldn't really be used on wood, this actually dulls the teeth. Rasps are for wood. Or diamond files. Of course, sometimes one has no choice, when cutting narrow slots and the likes. Remove the mass of the material with a saw and only use the file to create crisp edges. Professionals would keep different sets of files for different types of material.

 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted

  If all else fails, buy some more mini-files.  I think it was Gertrude Stein who said, "The easiest way to change a typewriter ribbon is to buy a new typewriter."

 

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

Posted

I have used those small brushes designed to clean suede shoes (aka Hush Puppies) with some success.  The finer wire bristles fit better than the coarse bristles in typical wire brushes.  For the more stubborn areas I use an old scalpel/X-Acto blade and scrape out each individual 'row' between the cutting ridges with the tip of the blade.  It is somewhat time consuming, but once you get a feel, it is surprising how fast you can clean the file.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted (edited)

In the past I have had good cleaning results with the rubber like gum eraser used by artists. It really grabs stuff in the teeth be it wood; brass or resin. The coarser one at the bottom worked best, but that also depends on the size of the teeth.

I”

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Edited by xken
To add images.

Ken

Current build: Maersk Detroit"
Future builds:  Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90
Completed builds: US Brig Niagara, Dirty Dozen, USS Constitution, 18th Century Armed Longboat
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/11935-uss-constitution-by-xken-model-shipways-scale-1768/

 

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I also use a tool to scrape out the grooves of my Nicholson Miniature files.  Like Banyan I've used an old No. 11 blade usually with a broken tip.  Of late, my tool of choice has been an old dental pick to clean out each groove.  I've used this on my rattiest mini-file where the grooves were caked with brass, aluminum and styrene.  This took a while but the file performance was restored to almost new.  

Wawona 59

John

 

Next Project: Gifts for friends:  18th Century Pinnace, Kayak 17, Kayak 21

 

Indefinite Hold for the future:  1/96 Flying Fish, Model Shipways

 

Wish list for "Seattle Connection" builds:  1/96 Lumber Schooner Wawona, 1/32 Hydroplane Slo-Mo-Shun IV, 1/96 Arthur Foss tug, 1/64 Duwamish cedar dugout canoe, 1/96 Downeaster "St. Paul"

 

Selected Previous Completed Builds:  Revell - 1/96 Thermopylae; Revell - 1/96 Cutty Sark, Revell - 1/96 Constitution, Aurora - Whaling Bark Wanderer, Model Shipways - 1/96 Phantom, AL - 1805 Pilot Boat Swift, Midwest - Chesapeake Bay Flattie, Monitor and Merrimac, Model Trailways - Doctor's Buggy

 

Posted

I use the eraser trick or just a common pin and run it through each groove. Takes less than a minute. 
Tom

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