HMS Victory 1805 by Robert29 - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72

[Robert29]

Hello to everybody.

 

Finally started the long voyage.  I ordered HMS Victory Caldercraft from CMB and received it just a few days later by UPS, very well packed.  I was a bit busy and could not start on it right away.  Apart from that I was still undecided whether to install lights on it or not.  In the meantime I prepared a rotating board to build it on and did some research on available led’s.  I was also browsing HMS Victory Caldercraft builds on MSW.  Very nice builds going on, congratulations to Gil Middleton, Seventynet, Rob G, Heinz746, Robert22564 and Dominic.  I enjoyed going through their builds and tried to absorb some ideas. 

 

So my first decision to make was ‘lights or no lights’.  If I opted for the lights I knew it was going to delay the start of my build as I had to do some planning beforehand.  After some research on lights available and on builds with lights, I decided to go for it. I think the end result will be worth the extra effort.  I sourced small 3mm yellow flickering  led’s, candle effect and ordered some of them together with the resistors to see their effect.  I dry fitted the keel and bulkheads and literally spent hours looking at it trying to plan how to put the lights in the lower and middle deck gunports.  I don’t want the boat to look like the Titanic lit up for its maiden voyage.  I decided to put a led in each gunport.  I experimented a bit and tried to put the lights in a position where they give a very subdued light, as of course there is nothing to see in the lower gunports, except the dummy rails for the cannons.  I wanted to create the effect of a very dim light where the gunports are still a bit dark but you can still see a very dim light with a candle effect.  Finger crossed the final result would be what I am hoping for.  I also planned from where to pass the wiring for them and for the upper decks.  Another thing which was bothering me was the power supply for the lights. I do not want to use batteries as in the future I intend to put it in a glass case and it would be very inconvenient to have to remove the glass case each time you want to switch it on or off.  On the other hand I do not want any cables showing coming out of the model.  I decided to take out the cables from under the keel and through one of the mountings and base board of a future glass case.  I drilled three holes under the keel, two to take the mounting rods and the middle one to pass the wires through.

Now that I have visualised more or less how to install the lights for the lower and middle deck gunports I prepared the holes for the wiring in the bulkhead as it is much easier to drill them at this stage, painted the inside of the bulkheads black, and started gluing the bulkheads in place, taking care to have them all at right angles with the keel.

 

Here goes a few images of my working table I prepared and the start of my build.  It is going to be a slow start because of the lights.

 

 

HMS Victory Kit arrived by UPS very well packed.  

 

Prepared a rotating working table for the model.  Cut a tick MDF board, fitted a tv turntable to it and fixed to the table.  The table is on wheels as well.

 

 

Glued the walnut Stem and the front keelson to the main keel.

 

 

Prepared and numbered the bulkheads.  One of them was not pre-cut properly and repaired.

 

 

Drilled the holes in the keel for the mounting studs and the hole through which the power will be supplied to the model.  Fitted a nut inside the keel to take the mounting studs, and also reinforced the sides of the holes.

 

 

 

Dry fitted the structure, sanding and making sure the joints fit without needing to use force.

 

 

 

This is the method I used to bend the dummy barrel strips.  I steamed the strip in a pot then put it on a flat surface and while rolling a jam jar over it, pull up at one end, repeating this process until the desired bend is achieved.  Immagine there are better ways to do it, but for the moment worked fine.

 

 

Started work on the lights.  I cut small squares from a circuit board on which I mounted a led, resistor and a pair of wires.  I drilled a whole in each gun port on the dummy barrel strips through which the led’s protruded from the back.  This way I did not have to do all the soldering on the model, all I had to do in place was to loop the pair of cable to the next one.  Each time I soldered one in place I checked all is lighting up so I don’t find any surprises later on. On the led’s if you switch polarity, it will not light up.

 

 

Painted black and started gluing the bulkheads to the main keel making sure they are perfectly square.  The middle gun deck is only dry fitted for the moment.  I have to do the wiring for the lower gun deck first.

 

 

 

Installing the lights.  The red and black wires are to supply the upper deck lightings, which I still have to plan as I go along.

 

 

Will appreciate any comments where I can improve, change or am doing any tasks the wrong way.  

 

Robert

 

Edited August 17, 2023 by Robert29

[Seventynet]

Hello Robert. Another Victory build, yay! It looks like you are doing a very careful job. You will not regret it. I think the lighting on the Vic is very cool and would suggest that you'll get all the help you need from Rob (robipod). There's also lots of other Victory builders ready to help on this incredible site. Anyway if there's anything I can help you with planking wise don't hesitate to call on me. Similarly, I may just be asking you for help soon at the pace I'm going!

Best, Ian

[robipod]

Robert... looks like you know what to do with the lights.. Wiring is my downfall.  Check in on Pompeii's build. He is savvy with the light circuits etc. Way better than what I've done... and he has a great build. He get's to go see the real Victory any day he wants as he lives in historic Portsmouth. At the rate I'm heading these days you will be ahead of me in a couple months... then I can get some tips from you on those steps I've not done/attempted. Enjoy your build. We will too.

Rob

[Robert29]

Hello Ian

 

Thank you for visiting my build.  Yes it is an incredible site, I learned a lot from it during my previous build of the Bluenose II.  I think I will soon be calling on you when I come to the planking.  I will be moving at a slow pace too as I don't have much time left after a day's work.

 

Hi Rob

Thanks to you too for visiting my build.  I don't think I will be ahead of you and I'm sure I will get tips from you.  I will visit Pompey's build. Hopefully I will visit the real Victory later on this year.  My daughter lives in Stratford-Upon-Avon and I have already prepared her that on my next visit to her we have to visit Portsmouth and of course the Victory.

 

Robert

Edited January 3, 2016 by Bertu

[mtaylor]

Hi Robert,

 

Looking good.  On the lighting.. run "rails" if you can down each side.  One rail positive and one negative.  You'll minimize the wiring lengths.  For the effect you want, it might be better to move the LED to between the ports instead of over the port.  That will hide the light and give a very subdued lighting effect.

 

I ran the cabling much like what your planning but out the aft end of the baseboard. My Constellation isn't in a permanent case yet, but when it does, I'll feed the wiring down through a hole in the base of it. 

[Robert29]

Hi Mark,

 

Thanks for your comment. The gunports are positioned on the very side of each space between the bulkheads. I positioned the lights up and on the other side of that space, so basically they are more or less the position you have suggested otherwise as you have rightly so suggested I will not have that subdued effect.

Thanks again, appreciate any suggestions. I will visit your Constellation build.

 

Robert

[pompey2]

Hi Robert

 

Looks like a great start.

I hope you have fun.

 

PS love the lights, it will be a definite bonus to the model.

 

Nick

[Robert29]

A little more progress. Fitted the middle gun deck and the bow forward supports.  Fitted also the stern extension.  Finished the lights for the middle gun deck as well.

 

Next step is to fit the gun port patterns.  I am thinking of making filler blocks for the bow and stern.

 

 

 

 

 

From the circuit boards supplying the gun port lights I wired six led's to light the inner middle deck so that light will be emitted through the deck gratings and also light the ladders leading to the upper deck.

 

 

 

This is the power supply that I will probably be using for the lights.  It has an output of 12V DC,  4 amps.

 

Later on I will try to take and upload a video of the flickering lights.

 

 

Robert

 

 

[Seventynet]

Looking really good Robert. I highly recommend filler blocks at the bow and stern. I wouldn't use balsa though - too much bending torque from the planks and it won't hold pins well in those areas.

Best, Ian

[pompey2]

Hi Robert

I would agree on the filler blocks, definitely.

I didn't use any and came to regret it.

Looks like your lighting will be spectacular.

I would advise testing frequently, especially before covering over your access (deck fitting)

I managed to cut a wire when drilling a hole and had to fix it.

 

Let me know if you do plan to visit Victory.

 

regards

Nick

[Robert29]

Ian,

Thank you for your comment and for your advise. That's all I needed to convince me, I will do the filler blocks.

 

Nick,

Thank you for your comments. With a second advice coming in, I will definitely do the filler blocks.

 

Yes, about the wiring, that is something that keeps coming back in my mind. What if I cut a wire when the lower decks are all covered!!!  Apart from testing frequently, what I did is I wired the lights for the lower and middle gun ports in a Ring Circuit. As you might have noticed the led's are wired in parallel, looped from one to the other. The two wires from the power supply feed the first led, the others are looped from on led to the other. The last looped led is again wired to the power supply.  So basically you are feeding the led's from two sides. It is the same way the socket outlets in a domestic house are wired. That way if one of the wires is cut the lights will still all be supplied from one side.

 

Thanks Nick, I will let you know when I visit Victory. 

 

Robert

[cobra1951]

Hi Robert

          Great job you are doing so far. Just like to give you a heads up if i may. where you have fitted parts 40 in front of bulkhead 1 in post #8 check that the dowel for your Bowsprit fits through the hole that is there, because myself and at least one other builder had to open that hole out quite a bit for the bowsprit dowel to pass through. If you leave it until the instructions say to fit the bowsprit it will be impossible to get at it as shown in the following photo

 

[Robert29]

Not much progress. Had a busy week.

 

Cobr@

Thank you very much for bringing that to my attention. Hadn't noticed that yet and I think I could have easily overseen it until it's too late. It sure needed a lot of trimming to take the bowsprit dowel and as you said there is no way you can trim it without having to remove again the front part.

 

 

Nick / Ian

Finished the filler blocks as you suggested. I can see now how much easier it will be when it comes to planking.

 

Mtaylor / Rob

Thank you for your nice comments.

 

 

Here are a few images:

 

Bow Filler Blocks

 

Stern Filler Blocks

 

Ready for the final sanding

 

 

 

Thank you for the likes. My next step is the gunport patterns.

 

Robert

Edited January 25, 2016 by Bertu

[cobra1951]

Not much progress.  Had a busy week.

 

Cobr@

Thank you very much for bringing that to my attention.  Hadn't noticed that yet and I think I could have easily overseen it until it's too late. It sure needed a lot of trimming to take the bowsprit dowel and as you said there is no way you can trim it without having to remove again the front part.

 

 Hi Robert

                Glad you got it sorted in time

 

Very neat work on the filler blocks

Edited January 24, 2016 by Cobr@

[Seventynet]

Very nice job Robert!

Best, Ian

[Robert29]

Finished filler blocks and started work on the gunport patterns.

 

I shaped the front end of the top gunport patterns and after I don't know how many dry fits I glued them in place.  To take the concave shape of the gunport patterns I used a flat piece of wood on the inside of the bulkheads  and a piece of rod on the outside of the pattern and pulled together with bolts and nuts.  Found it very effective.  I will leave them to dry until tomorrow and start work on the middle gunport. Unfortunately I am not finding much time during the week, if any at all, so things are moving a bit slow. 

 

 

 

 

Robert

Edited January 30, 2016 by Bertu

[cobra1951]

Those filler blocks are really great.

Shaping the gun port patterns was a great idea, when i did mine i tried to fit them straight on but as the glue dried they moved because of the curvature of the bulkheads. I had to remove them, then soak and pre fit them like you have done, once dry they went on no problem

Great job

Edited January 30, 2016 by Cobr@

[Seventynet]

What a super job Robert! I really felt spoiled by using filler blocks - and if I had any regrets it's that I didn't use more. There's one area between bulkheads 2 and 3 and the stem/keel that you may want to test ahead of time to see if an abbreviated filler block would be helpful. It's an area where the garboard plank(s) come to a sharp taper and might benefit from some support. You may decide that it's not necessary I just remember finding it useful - but that was also my first planking job so take it with a grain of salt.

Best, Ian

[Robert29]

Bob

Thank you for your nice comments.

 

Ian

Thank you for your nice comments.  I think you are right about the lower area between bulkheads 2 and 3.  I think I will insert a filler block just at the bottom.

 

 

A few more images.  The top gunport patterns are glued in place.  They seem to be ok.  The middle and the lower gunport patterns are just dry fitted.  I pre shaped them as much as possible.  Next I will glue the middle gunports, let them dry and then glue the lower gunport patterns, checking if they need any further shaping or trimming.

 

My hesitation now is if I should temporarIly nail them leaving part of the nails out and remove them after glue is dry, or drive the nails all the way in and leave them there.  ANY SUGGESTIONS?

 

 

Robert

[Seventynet]

It looks like you accomplished a magnificant fit! I could not avoid a a few bulkheads peeking out of some of the gun ports, but you seem to have done this. Very good. I can't give you any advice regarding leaving or removing the nails because I didn't use any. But I can't see any reason that they couldn't be pounded in either.

Best, Ian

[cobra1951]

Hi Robert

               Nice job on the gun port patterns.

I would leave some of the nail sticking out and remove them later. The holes won't matter as you will be planking over them later on. I used push pins on mine so the patterns couldn't ride up the shaft of the nails.

Posted a picture of push pins just in case you call them something different where you are. If you decide to use them drill a pilot hole through so the pins don't split the bulkheads as the nail in them is a bit thick

 

 

[pompey2]

I agree with Bob, pull pins out later.

There will be some places you need to drill and fit furniture, wouldn't want to hit a pin below the surface.

Small risk I know.

 

Nick

Edited February 3, 2016 by pompey2

[mtdoramike]

Isn't it a sweet day when UPS or FedEx swings by and drops off a big box addressed to you and when you open up the box, there she is, a magnificent ship model kit just waiting for a little attention and love. Then you crack open the ship model kit box and peer inside to see all those wonderful things inside. This is what I love about ship model kits and after all the graphic describing, I'm fighting the urge to order a kit.  You wouldn't think I would still get this quiver going up my leg for a ship model kit after building about 25 or so. But I guess I'm an addict.

 

mike  

[Robert29]

Gunport patterns ready.

 

Ian,

Thank you, quite happy with the fit.

 

Bob / Nick

Took your advice, thank you, did not hammer in any nails.  I used the push pins. Very convenient to use instead of nails.

 

Mike

Wow, 25 builds!!! This is only my third build.  I was really excited when I received the kit by UPS.  Before, my hobby was carpentry, but when I changed residence due to lack of space I had to give it up.  My brother had a kit 'Juan Sebastian Elcano' which he never got around to build and gave it to me.  After I built it, which was quite a struggle as the manual with it was very poor, I got hooked to this beautiful hobby.

 

 

 

Patterns pre shaped, glued, pinned in place and left to dry.

First the middle pattern.

 

Then the lower patterns.

 

Pins removed and patterns sanded.

 

Robert

 

 

 

[cobra1951]

Patterns line up great, exactly were they should be, love it

The push pins also eliminate the chance of hitting the patterns with a hammer and damaging them

 

I didn't get a plant with mine (Picture 6) just a load of free sawdust

[robipod]

Heading to the first planking! Now the fun begins. Lol  Looking sweet there Robert.  I've found that the more I prepare for various stages the better off I'll be in the long run.  Something I was thinking about last night was how important the purchase of the micrometer is for the build  (autocorrect on this tablet is not recognizing "build"). I truly believe it is a "must" item.  Keep going!  Have fun!  Planking seems to take forever same as building cannons on upper gun deck. Lol 

[Seventynet]

I second Rob's suggestion. But I'll add another must, if you don't already have one - a proportional divider. Although others may argue with me I stand firm on the benefit of one. It accelerates the process and, arguably, it also affords more accuracy. By the way, is that a variegated philodendron growing out of the starboard side of the Victory?

[Robert29]

Bob,

It was a special offer, the saw dust or the plant.  I opted for the plant.

 

Rob / Ian

I have a vernier and find it very useful.  I should think that the proportional dividers come very handy too.  Ian I don't have green fingers, that is the only plant I have in my apartment,  can't keep a plant alive in a pot, let alone on the Victory deck. It's the very top part of a plant sitting on the floor just behind the Victory when I took the photo.  If I tried on purpose to make it look like it's on the Victory deck, I'm sure I wouldn't have succeeded as much!!!

 

Yes next in line is the planking.  But first I have to look at some planking posts to see how to go about it.  The only boat I planked was the Bluenose II and was much smaller.  The method was to start from just under the bulwarks to about half way down, then start again from the keel and meet at the middle of the hull.  The other boat I built 'Juan Sebastian Elcano' had a solid hull.

 

Robert

 

 

 

[Robert29]

Today is a public holiday here and did some work on the Victory.  I decided to prepare the holes for the cannons on the dummy barrel strips.  One main reason is because at the back of the strips I have the wiring for the gunport leds and if I damage any of them when drilling there is no way I can get to them after I plank the hull.

 

Ian

I took your advice, I think this is the area you referred to.  I added filler blocks just at the base. Thanks.

 

 

I made a jig to centre the holes, but when I started drilling I was not very happy with the result.  A couple of the cannons were coming out of the gun ports at an angle sideways.  I realised the jig was too short.

 

I extended the jig and drew some parallel lines on top to guideme keep it at right angle with the patterns.  Worked fine.  I blanked with a dowel the two I didn't like and drilled them again.

 

Cannons dry fitted

 

Robert

 

 

[cobra1951]

Nice to see you took the time to make yourself a jig, well worth it to save spoiling such a good kit with a wonky gun

Great looking results well done