HMS Victory 1805 by Robert29 - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72

[Richardjjs]

They are supposed to be introducing A Trafagar Ocre not sure when
You can buy a complete set for a Victory of al paints required for about £35.00

[Richardjjs]

Corel in my opinion ar very clinical. Seem to be more interested in the look of the parts and packagine rather than the finished model

Wood is excellent But things like the Gun carriages are golden coloured.

Again in my opinion not really a modellers model

 

[Robert29]

Yes Admiralty paints are Caldercraft.  I had bought the set of paints for the Victory from CMB (part no. APS9014W). Here under is a list of the paints included in the set. The price is £29.36.  If you notice, there is the Matt (Metal) Black which is very similar to the Dull Black.  You can hardly see the difference.  I used it for the two carronades which were made of white metal casting so couldn't blacken.

 

HMS Victory Paint Set 
This paint set is for the Nelsons Navy kit HMS Victory and is made up of 14 jars as follows:

Dull Black x 3 
Matt (Metal) Black x 1 
Matt White x 1 
Yellow Ochre x 3 
Red Ochre x 1 
French Blue x 1 
Olive Green x 1 
Wood (Walnut) Brown x 1 
Gold / Brass x 1 
Copper x 1

 

Robert

[Patrick Haw]

Robert,

 

I just came across your build log now that I have finally returned to my own Caldercraft Victory after a 3-year+ hiatus.  Your work is very, very impressive and I will keep following your build with interest.  You are one of those builders who makes one wish to go back and start all over again!  Very well done!

 

Patrick

[Robert29]

Mark, thank you for your nice comments.

 

 Patrick, thank you  and good luck on your return to your Victory.  Hope you enjoy building it as much as I am enjoying it.  

A fortnight ago I visited my daughter in Stratford-Upon-Avon where she lives and works, and she was nice enough, together with her partner, to drive me down to Portsmouth to visit the real Victory.  We stayed there for the night where we had a great time. Weather was beautiful and I really enjoyed my visit to the Victory.  When I sort the photos I took I will upload some of them.

 

In the meantime I have an update for my build.  I continued work on the rear of the quarterdeck so that I will be able to fit the poop deck.

 

 

Fitted and wired three lanterns. Screens are only dry fitted for the moment, just to get a position were to place the lanterns and the cannons.

 

Carriages in place and all rigged.  Ships wheel assembled and fitted in place with thread lashed around the barrel and going down through the quarterdeck.  Binnacle also fitted in place and lashed to the quarterdeck.

 

Screen assembly glued in place 

 

I boxed the wiring passing along the beam to make sure they do not show through the gunport since the cabin is going to be lit by the lanterns.

 

Robert

[Robert29]

 

Here are a few photos of my visit to the Victory:

[Robert29]

A few more photos.  It's a pity I could not take more pictures of the lower decks as it was too dark.  The light was very dim and it was impossible to take photos without a tripod, which I did not have with me.

 

Robert

[GrandpaPhil]

Very cool!

[Kevin]

lovely photos but i was never ever going to paint mine pink

[MESSIS]

Great shots! Profi work. I have done that a year ago... but my pictures.... I dont know if it was the excitement of beeing there ... but my pictures dont  show any😄

 

Christos

Edited June 7, 2019 by MESSIS

[Robert29]

Thank you for the nice comments and likes.

 

Mark / Kevin,  Very true what you say about the colour scheme, a pinkish colour on a battle ship does seem a bit odd.  In my model I stuck to the yellow  ochre.

 

Christos, wish I had a tripod for the camera with me.  There were so many other things in the lower decks worth taking a photo off but could not because of the very low light.  You are not allowed to use flash but to be honest I don't know if you are allowed to use a tripod.  If I visit her again I will give it a try.

 

Robert

[MESSIS]

Robert tripod is allowed. A gentleman was using it freely as I was making my own visit. My handy camera wasnt bad, but as I came home I realised my pictures were not of much quality. On the contrary yours are lovely and more important they are substantial!. Congrats.

 

Christos 

Edited June 7, 2019 by MESSIS

[Robert29]

Thank you for the info Christos, on my next visit I'll make sure I take a tripod with me.  Although images below the decks aren't really necessary for the build there is some really interesting details down the decks, which is nice to have and enriches your knowledge what it was like and what went inside those ships.

 

Robert

[Robert29]

Poop deck in place. 

 

Had to finish all the wiring going to the gallery before I fitted the poop deck plywood. Checked that everything was working including the supply to the three lanterns which are to be fitted much later.

 

Planking poop deck, all wiring hidden,  leaving the holes at the back open so that I could reach the wire terminations for the lanterns.

 

Poop deck ladders.

 

Planking finished, capping fitted and painted, ladders fitted and carriages on the quarter deck fitted and rigged.

 

Openings will be covered with the flag lockers and a small piece of planking at the very corners after soldering in the lanterns.

 

There is a lot of work on the quarter deck and I want to finish it before I start work on the outside of the hulls. Still have to make the Skylight, the Flag Lockers, Barricade Assembly, fit the Forecastle Cannons.....

 

Robert

 

 

Edited July 4, 2019 by Bertu

[mort stoll]

very impressive. keep up the great work.

 

mort

[Robert29]

A small update,  didn't do much as I was busy redecorating my apartment, finally finished.

 

Fitted and rigged the two Forecastle Carronades.

 

Fitted also the Poop Deck Barricade Assembly, buckets not yet.  

 

 

Robert

[Robert29]

The two Forecastle medium 12pdr cannons are fitted snd rigged in place.  Finally finished with all carriages and cannons.  The dummy cannons will be fitted at a later stage.

Robert

[Alan D Speed]

Patience is a wonderful thing.!!!!!

[Wacom]

Robert,

Your build is inspirational, I envy your skill with timber the planking is how I would like to think mine would turn out.

Please keep up the good work its a treat when you post.

If its not too much trouble could you let me know the length of the hull from figure head to stern rail plus the width at the midship point.

My workshop is tiny so it would be good to know that its big enough to build this kit in.

Thank you

[Robert29]

Alan, it is a hobby that needs quite a lot of patience.  You have to make sure that you look at it as a hobby you enjoy doing and not a job you have to get over and done with as quickly as possible.  I work on the Victory when I really have the mood.  Sometimes I work on it nearly every day and sometimes I don't look at it for weeks.  You have to enjoy building it, not just looking forward for the moment it is finished.  Sometimes, when I am doing repetitive work it's true it gets a bit tedious, like when you are doing so many carriages for the cannons, but that is part of the hobby.  When it comes to that I leave it for a few days to do other work around my apartment or start doing something different on the model itself.  

 

Nzreg, I have a three bedroomed apartment and now I don't really need the third bedroom so I turned it into a workshop for my hobby.

It is quite a big model so basically you not only got to have space where to build it but also were to display it when finished.

 

From figurehead to stern it is 950mm with a hull of 220mm in width, BUT complete with the bowsprit, masts and yards it is 1,385mm (length), 525mm(width), and 940mm(height).

 

Regards

Robert

 

[Richardjjs]

I find the "worse" bit getting the hull built.
Planking so its smooth and even. If you don't get that right the whole project is a waste of time
DeLongli have got it right. Built a few Guns at a time. Copper pltes a few rows at a time (Stratig at the stern if you are overlaying the plates) Amati plates come in sheet Ports and Starboard ready overlapped

If you get "fed up" Build a mast top -very satisfying
But yes its got to be something enjoyable
Most important ENJOY

I am rigging at present - now that is the best bit

[Robert29]

A small update.  

 

Added some more detail to the Galley Stove Chimney.  I glued a metal washer to its base to create an edge and soldered two handles to its side.  Nearly ruined the chimney, did not realise that the white metal had such a low melting point, started melting when I touched it with the soldering iron and had to fill it up.

 

 

Skylight done as well.  For the moment both skylight and Mizzen Topsail Sheet Bitts are dry fitted.  I will fit them when I have the Flag Lockers ready as well.

One thing that is on my mind for the moment are the buckets that hang on the Poop Deck Barricade Assembly.  I like to print the ensign on them as well but I do not have the faintest idea how to go about it.

 

Regards

Robert

[mort stoll]

hi robert,

a few years ago, another caldercraft victory builder - i don't remember who -  on this forum in his build log posted that he with the aid of a computer program

- sorry,i don't remember which one - reduced the ensign to the size where they would fit on the buckets. he then printed them on decal paper and was able to apply them to the buckets.

 

hope this helps. please keep up the great work.

mort

 

[Wacom]

Hi, Robert,

 

I have used callie-graphics in the States for a lot of custom work.

Just send her a photo and size of what you want and she will carry out the art work and print on very thin vynl.

Her work is outstanding and prices very low.

https://callie-graphics.com/

 

Regards

 

Reg

[Robert29]

Wallace, thank you, I try my best.  I learn a lot from this forum.

 

Mort, coming to think of it I think I had seen it somewhere as well.  I will try to find it.

 

Reg, thank you for the web site.  Looks very interesting, I think I will give it a go.  I'll try to find an image of the ensign, check the size I need them and give it a go.  The only downside of it I can see is that postage from USA to Malta tends to be quite expensive, but it's worth a try.

 

Regards

Robert

[Wacom]

43 minutes ago, Bertu said:

"Reg, thank you for the web site.  Looks very interesting, I think I will give it a go.  I'll try to find an image of the ensign, check the size I need them and give it a go.  The only downside of it I can see is that postage from USA to Malta tends to be quite expensive, but it's worth a try."

 

Robert,

I live in New Zealand with the same high postal costs, however I have always found Callie to have very low shipping prices.

I have on occasion cautioned her against not charging enough.

The great thing about her though is that if the work she sends is not to your liking she will redo the job until it is, at no extra cost.

 

43 minutes ago, Bertu said:

 

 

 

[Swazza]

Hi Bertu, Syren Model Ship Co. do laser cut George III monograms, the smallest of which when airbrushed and stuck on give a good effect for canon and buckets. I found most printed transfers don't show up when placed on a dark background. The laser cut monograms however will show up in relief even black on black.

[Richardjjs]

Syren are great but UK P&P is stupid

Also the Are GUNS. Cannon are land based Guns ship based
But thanks for the tip

[Robert29]

A long overdue update.  

Hi Swazza, I had bought the monograms from Syren and used the very small once on the cannons, they were great.  I thought they are a bit bulky for the buckets, but I will have another go and see how they look. Thanks.

 

I started work on the windows for the Quarter Galleries and I did not like the windows being flash with the quarter pattern skins.  I wanted to create some depth so I made the recess for the windows on the pattern skin deeper.

 

But when I painted them I did not like them either.  The edges were they meet with the brass windows were not sharp and clean at all.

 

I took a different approach and hoped for the best.  I ordered some 0.5mm thick walnut strips from CMB to cover all the quarter pattern skins to create better window edges and even a deeper recess.

 

I think they look much better now. Didn't worry about the line were the two colours meet as they will be covered by the railing.  If you notice the brass profiles I had fitted and painted earlier on the hull, with handling, the paint is all coming off.  The paint does not adhere at all to the brass.  For now I stopped worrying about it and I will go all over them again when I finish all the work on the hull.  On other parts of brass I tried dipping in white vinegar before painting, tried cleaning with acetone, nothing seems to work.

 

Dry fitted the railings to see how it looks.  I don't think I will paint and fit the railings for now for the same reason of paint being scratched off so easily on brass.

 

Checked that the lights inside the quarter galleries still worked fine. 

 

Looking through one of the doors of the Beakhead on the Bow.

 

Also fitted the fenders and the chesstrees on the side of the hull.

 

Working on the Cat-Heads as well.

 

Regards

Robert

 

 

Edited November 5, 2019 by Bertu

[robdurant]

Hi Robert

 

You may already have seen this but Caldercraft also make a metal primer which I believe etches into the metal a little to provide a more stable base layer. Don't know how effective it is on brass but I have had good results on the britannia metal castings.

 

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/ap9205w.html

 

Really enjoying following this build! Your willingness to go the extra mile is bringing some excellent results.

 

Rob