English Pinnace by BRiddoch - scale 1/2" = 1'

[BRiddoch]

     Greetings all.  After finishing a few kits it is time to venture into scratch building.  Well, maybe a major kit bash anyway.  I have decided to tackle Chucks English Pinnace using a Swiss Pear lumbering set I was lucky enough to get from Jeff at Hobby Mill before he retired. 

      I will be replacing all the wood in the kit with the exception of the frames.

 

                      Bob R.

[BRiddoch]

Started by cutting out a new slotted false keel (not slotted yet), keel and stem.  Made a little building board to keep it all straight.

 

       Bob R.

[Jack12477]

Guess I'm the 1st to pull up a crate to watch - looking forward to following your build, Bob.

[mtaylor]

I'm here too... this looks promising.

[BRiddoch]

Great! Got me a powder monkey and a bilge rat. Welcome guys.

[Canute]

Count me in too, Bob!

[gjdale]

And me Bob! I have one of these stashed away with a Boxwood timbering set from Jeff. I'll be really glad to follow your progress with this.

[old salt]

Count me in.  Have one on the shelf waiting to go on the ways. Mind if I pull up bar stool and watch and learn?

[wyz]

Make room for my Stratolounger power recliner boys 'cause I'm watch'n this one too.

 

Tom

[bdgiantman2]

I am curious to know how different a Pinnace is from the Long Boat? The two look extremely alike without a trained eye.

[DocBlake]

I've got a pinnace is the queue too!  I'll be watching this build.

[BRiddoch]

Good crew. Welcome aboard all.

[DocBlake]

Hey Bob:  Good start!

 

I'm thinking of building the Pinnace out of pear also. but I may consider boxwood.  I have a fully equipped woodworker's shop, a scroll saw, thickness sander and a Byrnes saw.  I can mill my own wood.  Do you still have the wood list  of the pieces and dimensions that Jeff supplied you?  Would you be willing to share it for those of us who want to "bash" this kit along with you?  Thanks!

[BRiddoch]

The wood package from Jeff included the following:

 

      Strips:

3/64" x 1/"4 x 24" (4)  used for the Floor boards and Aft Platform

1/32" x 1/32" x 24" (2)  for oar lock pins

3/64" x 1/8" x 24" (3) for interior planking

3/32" x 3/32" x 24" (2) for oar handles

1/16" x 5/32" x 24" (3) for oars

3/64" x 1/16" x 24" (6) for panels and in between thwarts

1/16" x 3/32" x 24" (1) for seat back, oar locks, and molding between friezes

1/16" x 1/16" x 24" (4) for stanchions

1/16" x 5/16" x 24" (2) for thwarts and platform

3/64" x 3/16" x 24" (30) for planking and risers

3/64" x 5/32" x 24" (4) unknown

 

      Sheets

1/8" x 3" x 12" (1) for rudder and stem

1/32" x 3" x 4" (1) for splash guards

1/16" x 3" x 12" (1) for seat back, cockpit trunk, lid, caprails, knees, and step.

3/32" x 3" x 4" (1) unknown

 

 

             Bob R.

Edited February 1, 2016 by BRiddoch

[BRiddoch]

Using my new Hishika Saw, I cut the slots into the false keel.  From there I traced the template for the rabbet. 

 

           Bob R.

[DocBlake]

Thanks for the wood list Bob! I'm watching your build with interest.

[BRiddoch]

Using one of Chucks tips, I purchased some 1/16" striping tape (had to order it) and ran it down the center of the false keel.  This left 1/32" on each side giving me a nice clean rabbet.  From there I glued the keel and stem to the false keel.  I can now dry fit the frames. 

 

      Bob R.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

This looks really interesting. I've the same kit in my stock and like to change the timber.

I'll follow with great interest.

[DocBlake]

Bob: good work so far! You use the striping tape as a template and cut the rabbet with an X-Act knife, right? I've used a compass set to 1/32" to mark the rabbet but this seems much more accurate. I've also seen people glue a 1/16"wide strip (1/32" or 3/64" thick) to the false keel, then glue the keel directly to that strip. Creates a rabbet with no need to cut or trim it.

Edited February 8, 2016 by DocBlake

[BRiddoch]

Started framing.  Taking my time here to ensure the frames are perfectly aligned.  These will be the only parts that will be used from the kit.

 

           Bob R.

[BRiddoch]

Dave, I simply run the tape down the center of the false keel giving me 1/32" on each side of the tape.  This will give me a nice even rabbet line.  I do not use a knife...just sandpaper.

 

           Bob R.

[Chuck]

That looks great.  I wouldnt worry about the frames being another wood.  Very little of the frames will be visible once the model is completed.

 

Chuck

[BRiddoch]

That's what I figured also Chuck. Thanks.

 

Bob R.

[DocBlake]

Thanks, Bob! I'm on vacation so I can't begin construction until late this month. Plus my AVS Patrick Henry is not yet complete. I'll continue to follow the build closely!

Edited February 13, 2016 by DocBlake

[BRiddoch]

    Greetings all.  Framed and faired.  Had to adjust a few frames after seeing the pictures.  Seems the pictures give a better perspective.

   Started cutting out and shaping a new transom piece.

 

                Bob R.

[BRiddoch]

Frames faired, transom and bow filler pieces installed.  Ready to plank.

 

 Bob R.

[BRiddoch]

Chuck, I am ready to install the first strake but have a quick question first.  Does the strake run flush with the frames?  Seems the first 2 frames are a little high.  If I remember from the longboat, the strake should run natural and then the frames can be trimmed later.

 

   Bob R.

[Chuck]

That is correct....but also remember that at the bow where the sheer meets the stem,   the sheer should be flat or almost level.   Not angled upward.  To do this you must create a subtle "S" bend in that top plank to establish the proper run of planks.

[Chuck]

Here is a photo of my 1/4" and 1/2" version of the pinnace.  I have highlighted in blue on the smaller version to show the slight subtle "s" shape at the bow.  This is done to keep the caprail relatively flat at the stem.   

 

Chuck

 

[BRiddoch]

Thanks Chuck.  Under control.

 

  Bob R.