Golden Hind (ex-Pelican) by Baker - FINISHED - scale 1/45 - Galleon late 16th century

[Baker]

We do have a colorful language.
Just search for "kinderkopjes" (heads of little childs) on google...

 

Continue with the upper part of the main mast.

 

Building the top of the mast (not the "mast top" )

glued in place and sanded

And a test fit. It should become something like this.

Someone (I) forgot that the mast must also have a support on the lower deck.
So I drilled a hole in this deck and hammered a nail in it

And drilled a hole in the mast. plan B but effective

And discovered my first rigging problem.

Long time ago a modeller had the same problem.

Beautifully solved by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

to be continued

[Louie da fly]

And this is a Turk's head  (for obvious reasons)

 

 

Very nice work so far. The mainstay problem is annoying, though. Is it supposed to be fixed to the foredeck? Maybe instead you could attach it to the lower end of the foremast? It should still do the same job (I think - not an expert with rigging).

[Baker]

4 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

And this is a Turk's head  (for obvious reasons)

 

 

Very nice work so far. The mainstay problem is annoying, though. Is it supposed to be fixed to the foredeck? Maybe instead you could attach it to the lower end of the foremast? It should still do the same job (I think - not an expert with rigging).

This resulted in the same problem.
But the solution is near.

not completely in order yet
but on the right track.

[Louie da fly]

That's an elegant solution to the problem. 

[the learner]

I to think it should be attached to the formast.

[Baker]

On 10/5/2020 at 11:09 AM, Louie da fly said:

Very nice work so far. The mainstay problem is annoying, though. Is it supposed to be fixed to the foredeck? Maybe instead you could attach it to the lower end of the foremast? It should still do the same job

 

3 hours ago, the learner said:

I to think it should be attached to the formast.

Actually, yes and no.
On almost all ships with the fore mast in front of the fore castle it is attached to the bow (in a hole in the beakhead knee).

 

On ships with the fore mast in the fore castle you see all the possibilities.
Rules, habits, or maybe they had the same problem at the shipyard every now and then and they just did what suited them best.
In this era, information is sometimes unclear.

 

But

When the fore mast is so far forward, she has less support in the ship than when she is in the fore castle.
Perhaps the strength of the fore mast was not trusted to absorb the extra forces of the forestay of the main mast.
 

If I still got my lessons in mechanics right

The setup with the foremast in front of the fore castle can only absorb forces in the forward direction (2 support points).
The setup with the foremast in the castle can (should) absorb forces in both directions (multiple support points).

Who knows??

[Louie da fly]

Yes, I'd agree with your assessment. Your solution - fixing the stay to the beakhead knee - is better from a structural perspective.

[Jeff T]

 

Going under the railing is definitely a way to do it.  On a replica here in San Diego of a galleon ship that sailed in 1542, the mainstay also travels under the railing:

 

 

An interesting thing is how after the fore part of the mainstay is stropped around a deadeye, the two limbs are first “seized” together, then they separate to go around the foremast as a “loop” rather than sit together to one side of it or the other.  Here is how it looks from the forecastle:

 

 

It still attaches to the beakhead rather than the foremast.  But what appears to be the protruding stempost in this replica is to the port side of the bowsprit here, with the bowsprit not “dead center” in the beakhead.

 

What could be done if the bowsprit rested on the stempost?  (I am struggling with the idea of eventually using this mainstay “loop” technique on my own galleon (a plastic kit), because the bowsprit does indeed rest on the stempost in that kit, but I think maybe the separation of the mainstay that goes around the foremast can stay separated around the bowsprit and then travel through a tunnel drilled transversely through the protruding stempost beneath the bowsprit, thereby completing the “loop”?)

[Baker]

4 hours ago, Jeff T said:

What could be done if the bowsprit rested on the stempost?

Perhaps the Vasa model is a good example of this setup.

 

I think : If the fore mast is far enough back then the bowsprit can be placed in the center and therefore also rest on the stempost

 

http://www.wasadream.com/Index/indexenglish.html

http://www.wasadream.com/photoswasa/154.jpg

[Jeff T]

11 hours ago, Backer said:

Perhaps the Vasa model is a good example of this setup.

 

I think : If the fore mast is far enough back then the bowsprit can be placed in the center and therefore also rest on the stempost

 

http://www.wasadream.com/Index/indexenglish.html

http://www.wasadream.com/photoswasa/154.jpg

Yes, I think this would work.  Thanks!

[Louie da fly]

You learn something new every day - if you're not careful!

 

Looping the forestay around the foremast would mean it avoids transferring any forces to the foremast - which if it's very far forward as in Backer's diagrams, would be a good idea.

[Baker]

After finnishing the fore and main mast, i started with the mast top of the mizzen mast.

 

There is a choice with or without a mast top. I chose to build a mast top, but smaller and simpler than the 2 previous ones.

A little too much removed from the fore castle 
So, repair and repainting.

The modified version (almost correct)

The 3 masts and the bowsprit dry fitted in place (and someone is taking a nap 😴)

My loyal assistant, on the lookout in the mast top 

The wooden parts of the masts are now ready, the masts are now first further finished (bolts and other metalwork).
And then think about how and where the deadeyes are attached to the mast tops.

 

Thanks for following

[md1400cs]

Patrick,

 

Just went through your Oct. posts - don't know why I'm not getting update notices?? -- will reset my preferences - as always a pleasure to spend time with your log.

[Baker]

On 11/19/2020 at 5:37 PM, md1400cs said:

Just went through your Oct. posts

Welcome back 

You haven't missed anything for now. This build was temporarily on hold.
First finished a small plastic Bounty. 
Had a "light" corona attack, and defeated it
Now build a few military vehicles and then we'll get back to this build. 

[G.L.]

Patrick, I am glad to read that you recovered well from your corona infection.

[Danstream]

Just discovered this build of yours, I just ventured in this section of scratch builds. I started to read it from the beginning and it is a mine of information and inspiration. I will learn a lot from it. I will ask more when you are back on it. Glad to know that you defeated the virus.

Greetings,

Dan.

[Baker]

Hello, i slowly restarted the Pelican build. So a small update.

Made a removable plug for the battery of the LED lights. Not hi tech, but it does what it should do: turn on the LEDs.

Some things that may not be completely correct have been adjusted.
The stern gallery was also normally used as a combat station. So no sanitary facilities here. The holes are closed.

The two holes in the beakhead have been modified, there are now two seats of ease.
The black tubing turned out to be a bad idea and was not used.

Thanks for following

 

[luponero]

Hi Patrick,
I am very pleased that you have restarted with the work, which I follow with considerable interest !!! (very interested, given the constructive similarities with the SGB that I am making , )
a question "on the fly" the wire that powers the LEDs you leave it visible outside? or do you foresee a different passage that makes it invisible?

 

luponero

[Baker]

The LEDs are actually Christmas lights (very cheap and easy to use)
The wire is concealed against the ceiling on the decks.

And ends in the removable helmsman's house on an adapted "lusterklem" (in English ??)

 

[luponero]

  "lusterklem" in English I don't know, in Italian translated it would be "clamp", in Tuscany it is also called "mammoth" but think about how language can change things, however it is that object where you attest to the electrical wires, but from the "lusterklem" to the switch where the batteries are, do you go outside?

 

 

of course: beautiful creation !!!

 

luponero

[rkwz]

Just gets better and better! Looking forward to more surprises, Patrick.

 

Maybe you should have a model to demonstrate the operation of the thrones you just made?

[G.L.]

Your forecastle looks like a cosy corner for lots of interesting conversations provided that there is not too much overcoming water.

[Baker]

12 hours ago, luponero said:

but from the "lusterklem" to the switch where the batteries are, do you go outside?

If I understand the question correctly

 

battery holder with extended wire, The wire is soldered

The wire ends in the clamp together with the copper wires of 1.5 diameter

Need light ? Open the helmsman's housing and insert the clamp

simple and effective 

 

[Baker]

10 hours ago, rkwz said:

Maybe you should have a model to demonstrate the operation of the thrones you just made?

I did not find any volunteers 🤣

1 hour ago, G.L. said:

Your forecastle looks like a cosy corner for lots of interesting conversations provided that there is not too much overcoming water.

I can always add a few news papers.

Long ago, on the farm of my grandparents, there was a box of old newspapers on the seat of ease.
And they were not only for reading ... 😳

[flying_dutchman2]

I like how you built your bowsprite, something I am working on for my Zeehaen. Not an easy item to create. 

 

Marcus 

[Baker]

After 4 weeks, ready for an update.

 

Detailing the masts.

Much time has been spent on research, thinking and testing. Masts in the 16th century could not be disassembled. Everything was solidly attached to each other.
How ?? No useful info found. So i improvise, with the idea: if I make it myself on scale 1/1, how do I attach everything together.

 

How and where to attach the deadeyes to the mast top.
There are 3 ways : on top (red)   in the middle (blue)   bottom (green)
The most common in this era is the top.

Determine where the deadeyes should come (to avoid mistakes like with my Bounty experiment)

 

 

The materials used are plastic, wire and copper and metal nails. The deadeyes are the same as those on the channels.

 

Work in progress (fore mast)

Details painted and colored (main mast)

"Woolings" ? around the mast. Normally this is not necessary because this is not a made mast, but this gives a little more detail to the mast.

 

The first (mizzen) mast fixed on the model 

 

Main mast and extra's dry fitted
Thanks for following, likes and comments

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jeff T]

I like the method you use (jig) to make sure that the masts are vertical.

[Louie da fly]

Beautiful work, Patrick - as usual! Wonderfully precise and the detail is fantastic.

 

Oh, and you were very close - the word is wooldings.

 

Steven

[Baker]

Hello,

First, i wish everyone a happy and above all healthy 2021.

 

All masts and bowsprit are now mounted (work in progress)

 

Made some useful tools from large needles

They came in handy for this job. Next time I rig these blocks before installing the deck.

The bowsprit mounting is extra reinforced with a nail

Then "camouflaging" this nail so that it is no longer visible

Ready

Thanks for following,comments and likes.

[G.L.]

Patrick, she looks really good with her masts and bowsprit.