Bismarck by Semorebutts - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 scale - PLASTIC - with MK1 detail set

[cog]

They should have checked what they sent off to you. That would have avoided your problem, the set might have been partly taken by a shop visitor ... not very kind, but shoplifting still happens, untill nothing can be obtained but for through the internet

[semorebutts]

 Now that i think bout it, it was not sealed. 

 

Theres so much more pontos than mk1 with more detail, but There has to be an easier way of doing this!

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, semorebutts said:

 Now that i think bout it, it was not sealed. 

 

Theres so much more pontos than mk1 with more detail, but There has to be an easier way of doing this!

Sand it off using a sanding stick thats been smoothed a bit to loose a bit of its grit, thats what I do.

 

OC.

[popeye the sailor]

looking good semore.....good you were able to remedy the bumps along the way   

[cog]

Scott, I use a hand chissel, a small straight one like this:

It gives me far more control than an exacto like knife, and doesn't flex

Edited October 31, 2017 by cog

[semorebutts]

ooooh  I'll have to go to home depot now.  That's a great idea. hopefully they sell small chissels.

[John Allen]

1 hour ago, semorebutts said:

That's a great idea. hopefully they sell small chisels 

Hobby lobby has a set of 4 or 5 small hand chisels run about 16 to 18 dollars perfect for what your doing price is right.

 

Takes a little longer to hone the edge after all its not a 75 dollar chisel it resembles what Carl posted

Edited October 31, 2017 by John Allen
correction

[semorebutts]

Perfect John thanks! I will order that later. 

 

I must say I like Pontos better than MK1 PE.  The PE itself has much more detail. I think the instructions are also better. 

this is how much more Pontos offers over MK1.  And thats just for that piece. And theres still alot i wont use like the louvers. Don't get me wrong MK1 makes a great upgrade set, but on my next model I would have to go with Pontos... actually why not both again

[semorebutts]

Finished this section. I think im going to airbrush this before I move on to the floor above this. And complete each floor  one by one.

 

[semorebutts]

 

What a mess!

Edited October 31, 2017 by semorebutts

[Old Collingwood]

49 minutes ago, semorebutts said:

 

What a mess!

What a great idea tackling section by section including painting, its easier that way to get a quality job in a controled area at a time.

 

OC.

[yvesvidal]

I agree with you. That is the Flory's approach and it is by far the best. There are so many parts that it is difficult to keep track of all of them.

You are doing great. I am looking forward to reading you every day.

 

Yves

[Dan Vadas]

I take the "section by section" approach to my models as well. As Yves said it makes keeping track of all the parts a lot easier.

 

One thing I'd do though - I'd leave painting each section until they are ALL done in case there is an "overlap" with some parts, and also in case there is any filling needed between sections. You'd also get a more even colour overall.

 

  Danny

[semorebutts]

I have the next 11 days off so im going to try to get alot done in that time. I haven't painted yet because I want to try tamiyas liquid surface primer. I dont knowwhy im going to prime as i dont think it needs it, but ill give it a shot. 

 

Electrical conduate, catapult catwalks, phone booths and signal light guard rails cut out ready to bend or apply. 

[cog]

Lucky you ...

 

ET phone home ... That's some nice PE. You've got Blue Tack or something like it so you won't blow away your parts when you pull the trigger ... ?

[semorebutts]

LOL I use tamiya tape taped on a block sticky side up. 

[cog]

So you see the ribbon with parts fluttering out of the window, instead of a single piece

Edited November 3, 2017 by cog

[semorebutts]

Done with those 6 pieces. They Re now ready for paint. Theres alot of brass here so I think its best to use primer. 

[popeye the sailor]

really nice!   

[yvesvidal]

Nice job on the PEs. Very impressive.

 

Yves

[semorebutts]

thanks guys!

[semorebutts]

Now im ready to solder! New toy. 

i got these sryinges to precisely apply flux. 

 

[cog]

Oho ... nurse ... I need a flux shot ...

Edited November 3, 2017 by cog

[semorebutts]

Then ill cauterise the wound with the hot soldering iron.

[semorebutts]

Im very unhappy with how the electrical conduit came out. Its so crooked... I have to rethink how I apply them. 

 

[semorebutts]

My first practice solder joint. This is harder than i thought. The melting point of 50/50 solder is 420f. I had to turn it up to 850f before the heat transfered fast enough to the brass.   I got alot to learn. 

[cog]

That's why most use silver solder and a mini torch, Scott. It heats quicker, but is hotter, and it flows nice in between the parts. However, PE will easily burn in front of your eyes, literally, so usually CA thin or thick (even gel form) is used in stead of soldering.

 

You are a brave man to solder, not one of the faint of hearts.

Edited November 4, 2017 by cog

[RGL]

Man, I could never bring myself to solder, so much PE, so much work! 

 

Ive decided the quick set binding fluid for Ca is now my friend. 

 

Its a massive build. 

[semorebutts]

I only bought the soldering iron for the masts. When the model is done the only thing that i want soldered are the masts. I just couldn't resist I had to try on a spare PE part. I have always wanted to scratch build something use just brass stock so maybe this will get more use than just a mast. I think I still may buy a torch and silver solder.

[semorebutts]

Today and tomorrow I will be painting and weathering. Lots to do!