USS Constitution by MikeU48 - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC - with sails

[Javlin]

9 hours ago, Jim Rogers said:

The way I rounded the square axles: Locate a drill bit the same size as the hole in the wheel, take one of your Dremel grinders and drill a hole in it, now just put the square axle in and hit for a second. Now round.🤗

Jim sounds like you are trying to get out of manual labor? Kevin

[MikeU48]

Well, I finally got some more accessories from Radek at HiSModel in the Czech Republic. Didn't care for the look of the plastic carronades with my brass cannons for the Spar deck so I sold some more plasma and ordered the wooden ones from Radek.

I had to do some sanding on the block between the upright sides as it was a little wide for the sides to set perpendicular. Also, the brass cannons will more on the cross pin so after many failed attempts at gluing brass to brass I put some 5 min epoxy the back portion of the carronade for the barrel to rest in. Now I only have 20 more to go. I figure I should be done with the spar deck cannons by spring but don't ask me WHICH spring...

 

First 4 glued...2 primed.

Tiny parts...Thank God and Lou for tweezers.....

 

Here they are on the Spar deck with their plastic counterparts... Thanks again Jim and Lou for suggesting the ceilings be painted green. I really like it now.

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by MikeU48

[MikeU48]

Well I finally got all the Spar deck carronades assembled, primed, 2 coats of paint and cannons glued on to all 22 guns.

I had some spar wheels that I glued to the bottom so I had an "invisible" glue point to the deck. Through trail and error I found I needed to ruff up the deck with sand paper so the wood glue would stick to the semi-gloss oak veneer deck.

 

NOW the fun part ... rigging the carronades to the eye bolts on the ceiling (I think I said that correctly...lol). I didn't follow the instructions to glue the eye bolts to the ceiling before the carronades were glued to the deck as I figured it would be impossible to thread the rope thru the eye bolts once glued to the ceiling. I also found it easier to leave the eye bolts attached to the plastic tree and use a round file to open up the holes a little bit. The first one I did (pic below) I tied a half knot in the eye bolt and glued the rope to the eye bolt. Not know the length I just threaded the eye bolt to the other end with enough length in the rope to tie a knot. I glued the right eye bolt in the ceiling and wrapped the rope around the back of the brass cannon as per the instructions. I then glued the rope to the cannon and let it set for awhile. I glued the left eye bolt in place and even glued the rope to the eye bolt, leaving a little slack in the rope. After that set for a while I tried to tie a knot in the left eye bolt. After a bazillion attempts I just cut the @#$@# off. See where I'm going with this folks??? HELP!!!!

 

I decided to tie both ends of the rope to the eye bolts first and then cement the right eye bolt first... let that dry then wrap the rope around the end of the cannon , leaving a little slack to the glued eye bolt. In theory this should work except the glued half knot on the right eye bolt didn't hold and guess what??? Yeah I know...but the pic in the instructions doesn't look like a full knot.

Any suggestions will be GREATLY appreciated.....

[Javlin]

Well I think most of the guys would say seize it will look more professional but d#@* if that would be a bit of work and good system for repetition/tools needed.I am thinking off the bat a small board @45' angle with small holes drilled(2) in it(smaller than deadeyes shaft) good lighting tweezers and tightbond(diluted) for the seize string.Just my first thoughts have not done seizes before if I did it was years ago. Kevin

 

Oh hey that long shot of the deck looks bad ***

Edited December 6, 2018 by Javlin

[MikeU48]

Well Kevin I thought about it long and hard (about 30 seconds) and realized it was far beyond my talents and patience. The first mistake I made was doing the rigging on the carronades on the port side. I should have started on the starboard side as the knots in the eye bolts glued to the ceiling would not be readily seen as I plan to display the Connie with the starboard facing out. Oh well, the great plans of mice and men. It's not going in a museum so I am good with the progress so far and it is FAR better all around than my first Connie so count me as a happy camper.

Thanks for the complement.

[Old Collingwood]

She is looking super  - I feel your pan regarding the breech ropes and thier attachment to the bulkhead walls.

 

OC.

[lmagna]

3 hours ago, MikeU48 said:

It's not going in a museum

You mean your house is not your museum? Everything in my house, (Including the house at 120 years old) is old and most everything I own personally in it is dusty as well! Kind of matches most museums that I know of. 

 

Your work is looking quite nice and i yhink you will find that by he time you are done only you will be able to pick out what you are considering your mistakes right now! Aof course that will be a little way down the road so by then even you may have forgotten about them!

[MikeU48]

Morning OC and Lou. Thanks for the comments. 

Lou you are right ...my house is a museum but with limited admissions...lol

 

I think I have figured out a way to rig these canons.

I cut a 2 1/2" length of cord and attached eye bolts to each end. Positioned each eyebolt (1/2 knotted) at 2" apart. I then glued each eyebolt into the ceiling and let them dry. I then wrapped the cord around the end of the canon and tightened the cord around the end. Holding the cord tight with two reverse tweezers I glued the cord to the cannon end.

 

This morning I removed the reverse tweezers and WA LA...Not bad.

 

 

[MikeU48]

Well I have been busy finishing up the "ropes" on the cannon carriages and cementing the carriages to the spar deck.

Got my Anchor in the mail and installed that. Happy with it compared to the stock one.

 

Also installed the Stanchions and ran the thread on them. What a pain in the ****. Found a tooth pick helped to wrap the thread around the upright portion of the stanchions. Broke several in the process. I have some spare Stanchions so some time will be needed to do the repair.

 

Bowsprit assembled but not glued in. I will install all of the rigging blocks first as I figure it will be easier to tie the blocks on the bowsprit when it's not installed.

Also finished the Amidship inner and outer rails. Much easier to wrap the thread but not easy to glue together on the deck. Also had them break in several places when wrapping the thread. Very thin plastic parts.

Masts assembled but not glued in. Have to attach blocks to the yards first. 

Question on the assembly of the studding sail booms when they are attached to the Yards. The instructions show either inboard or outboard positions when attaching the booms to the yards. I'm going to assume one is with sails (outboard position) and the other (inboard position) is without sails. See pic below. My Connie will not have yard sails. The cloth sail set I bought did not include the yards sails but they are available..Are they worth it???  I will attach all the blocks before glueing the yards to the masts. Is it easier to do the standing rigging before the yards are attached to the masts? Seems like less pieces to manuerver around... Humm

 

Last but not least all three mast assembled but not glued in. They look less perpendicular than they are but figure the rigging will help straighten them up....I hope.  The Mizzen mast is the worst and I am thinking about carefully opening up the hole on the gun deck with a drill (very carefully...I don't know) Any thoughts????

 

Edited January 17, 2019 by MikeU48

[Old Collingwood]

Looking very tidy.

 

OC.

[CDW]

18 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Looking very tidy.

 

OC.

It's one of the better builds of the old Revell Constitution I have ever seen. Looks positively excellent. The addition of the various detail sets paid off in spades.

[lmagna]

Looking like you are making some nice progress Mike.

 

Before you open the mast hole you may want to consider installing some backstays on the foremast first. If setting the standing rigging brings it into alignment then all is well. If not then just cut away the rigging, reset the mast and rerig. That way at very worst you are only out some rigging thread used for the backstays and forestays. 

 

Nice to see your progress again. She is looking great.

[MikeU48]

Thanks guys for the compliments.

2 questions I need advice on. Should the booms be glued on the outboard position on the yards? I plan to order amd use studding sails.

And would it be easier to install the standing rigging BEFORE the yards are glued into position?

 

Lou, I appreciate the comments on the mast positions.

20 minutes ago, lmagna said:

you may want to consider installing some backstays on the foremast first.

Don't understand backstays or forestays.  Remember my lack of nautical terms?...lol

[lmagna]

Backstays are the first, (Black thread) lines run from the hull sides into the masts. They should be the first rigging lines listed in your instructions. The forestays are the remaining standing rigging lines that run back down either to the deck or to the next mast forward along the centerline of the ship In real life they are used to reinforce the masts against the stresses generated  on them by the wind against the sails. That is why there are more backstays than there are forestays.

 

All of the standing rigging can in addition be used to correct small out of alignment issues in the mast as all together they form a triangle that can draw the mast to the left or right or fore and aft before they are set.

 

Others may differ and you must remember I am by no means any kind of expert by any stretch, but I would wait to install the yardarms until after I had done the standing rigging.

[Ozark]

Looking great Mike

I'm glad you are just a little ahead of me so I can learn from your techniques.

I have also been concerned about installing the stanchions and rails. I'm thinking of using a net type material. I have noticed a lot of other builds use it. 

Ozark

[MikeU48]

Thanks Ozark.

I always start any work on the Port side as that will be the back of the Connie when its in its case. That way I can learn from my mistakes before I do the Starboard side. It just took time and patience using a toothpick to help wrap the thread around the stanchions. You just can't pull the thread too tight. I found the gluing the thread on each Stanchion as I went helped keep it from unraveling as I went. I also used a small round file to open up the eyebolts at each end. I also glue the knots on the eyebolts as the waxed thread doesn't hold a knot too well and the last thing I want is for the thread to come loose when I start the rigging.

 

Low, Thanks for your tips, as always. I haven't built anything of this complexity in 40 years. I will do the blocks on the bowsprit BEFORE I glue the bowsprit into the ship. I think it will be easier to maneuver. Same with the Standing rigging for the masts.

Edited January 21, 2019 by MikeU48

[MikeU48]

Just a few comments on the instructions for the 1/96 scale plastic Revell Connie for the novices like me.

Step 12 of the basic ship construction shows the fife pinrails, fore fiferail , monkey rail and main fiferail all to be installed on the spar deck around the Fore and Main Mast. Doing so this early in the construction, in my humble novice opinion, will obstruct installing eyebolts and eyebolt/deadeyes that are described in the second set of instuctions (Rigging). It would be easier to wait until eyebolt and eyebolt/deadeyes are connected to the spar deck and then glue (and surround) the rigging eyebolts. 

I wasn't so fortunate to realize this error until the forementioned Fiferails, etc. were glued to the spar deck. Any deadeyes connected to eyebolts will be mated before the eyebolt is glued to the deck. Live and learn I guess...lol

Also, for the Novice, I have found reverse tweezers are really the go to tool, in so many instances, when working with tiny parts, threads etc.

Edited January 21, 2019 by MikeU48

[Nirvana]

On 9/18/2018 at 4:50 PM, lmagna said:

Oh 

By the way he sells on eBay also. Even though he is not listing the Connie sails right now he is listing replacement brass cannon.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Revell-USS-Constitution-United-States-set-of-57-pcs-CNC-Brass-gun-barrels-1-96/222957260994?epid=871142323&hash=item33e949d0c2:g:-Q0AAOSwblZZFcBt

 

OK I'll go hide in my corner now!

"Bad Lou Bad Lou!"

Lou, 

 

I just looked into this guys ebay sales...... beautiful items, high price but I do have the Revell Connie that I want to modify.
Maybe further down the road after the move to the coast and the economy has stabilized.
Yes, me and The Admiral is moving this year to the Shelton area.

[MikeU48]

OK folks....

A couple of "uninformed" questions. Remember...I'm a NOVICE here picking my way thru an "interesting" build. I also ask this for other novices following behind me. All the build logs I have seen are what I consider as Master Builders that take this plastic model any create their own masterpiece with a millions custom parts.

 

1. Is it necessary to glue the three mast to the spar- gun deck? Reason for the question is that I and installing as much as I can with the masts off the deck. Easier to install the standing rigging (most of it) when it's not inserted to the ship. I'm also thinking that the Standing and running rigging will hold them in place anyway. Remember these questions are coming from a NOVICE so be KIND in your replies...lol

 

2. After reading the Rigging instructions a bazillion times I think I am understanding them a little better. Backstay and forestays now make sense Lou.

 

Question: I will be building the Connie with sails including the studding sails.  The rigging instruction (booklet #2) starts out with the standing rigging rat lines, bowsprit rigging, forestay then backstay rigging. Then it proceeds to optional steps 13-18 Running rigging. That is followed by another optional section, running rigging- steps 19-26.

Then we come to Optional steps 27-33 Running rigging with sails followed ,(last but not least) Optional steps 34-41 Running rigging with sails.

I took the long way around the question but if I am going to install the sails I just eliminate steps 13 thru 26. I hope this makes sense...Again be kind in your replies as I cry easily...rotflmao.....

[MikeU48]

I'm sorry... I forgot two other questions

 

Is there an easy way to attach the stock plastic deadeyes to the bowsprit (no eyebolts just wrapped around bowsprit) as well as attaching the deadeyes to eyebolts? Instructions don't really cover it. I assume I just have to tie a knot the glue it to the deadeye then do the same to the eyebolt. On the bowsprit the assumption it to again tie the thread to the deadeye wrap it around the bowsprit then glue the wrapped thread on the bowsprit (to hold it in position on the bowsprit) the tie the other end of the thread to the last deadeye on the bowsprit but I know what assuming can mean.

 

Also should the holes on the blocks be "expanded" before they are rigged? One of my only memories of building this model 40 years ago is using a heated safely pin to open the blocks up so I could get the various size threads through the blocks. It will be easier to do while they are on the plastic tree.

 

Thanks guys in advance as always.

[MikeU48]

Quote

I just looked into this guys ebay sales...... beautiful items, high price but I do have the Revell Connie that I want to modify.

Nirvana,

HisModel has expanded his web site to show all the accessories available for the 1/96 scale Connie.

https://www.hismodel.com/uss-constitution-united-states-revell-1-96?PaggingValues=5%3A24%3A1%3B&_TargetFile=uss-constitution-united-states-revell-1-96

[Nirvana]

29 minutes ago, MikeU48 said:

Nirvana,

HisModel has expanded his web site to show all the accessories available for the 1/96 scale Connie.

https://www.hismodel.com/uss-constitution-united-states-revell-1-96?PaggingValues=5%3A24%3A1%3B&_TargetFile=uss-constitution-united-states-revell-1-96

Oh my, now I need a bigger wallet for all the items!

[MikeU48]

Nirvana,

LOL...That's what I told Lou after his suggestion to visit the Ebay site.

So far, and I THINK I'm done I've purchased

Oak Veneer decks (Gun and Spar)

Brass cannons for Gun and Spar deck with their carriages,

25 piece cloth sail kits (12 piece studding sail kit in the mail) 

Cloth flags

Depth marker decals

metal eyebolts

and a partridge in a pear tree,,,,,

 

So far sell my plasma has kept me from bankruptcy and sell my home.... he he he 

 

[lmagna]

2 hours ago, Nirvana said:

Maybe further down the road after the move to the coast

So you are coming in from the desert at last Per!

 

Can't really call Shelton "The coast" but at least you will be on the livable side of the Cascades where it is possible for higher lifeforms than lizards to live in the summer! It seems you were smart enough though to stay hours away from my house though so that you wouldn't need to deal with pesky visits from the riff raff from Everett. At least not too often. I don't know about the economy settling down, but you might find the cost of living is a bit higher over here, even in Shelton.

 

You cover a lot of ground Mike but I think the short answer is that for you there are no "optional" steps.

 

The standing rigging is pretty much needed no matter what. The first part of the running rigging is really not an option either. I'm surprised that it is listed as such. It is used to handle the yards. Raising and lowering them and setting them for proper orientation to the wind when sailing or at anchor. If I understand the second "option" properly this is the running rigging that would be in place to manage the sails while underway. So since you are going to place ALL sails, including studding sails there will be no shortcuts or "Options" for you. In fact I would be highly surprised if the Revell instructions are complete. If you were to look hard enough you would probably find that there was even more rigging on the ship two hundred + years ago in her prime and that much of it has been simplified both on the real ship and the model.   

[lmagna]

22 minutes ago, Nirvana said:

Oh my, now I need a bigger wallet for all the items!

If you have any left over from the Connie then he can take some more by making custom sails for your other builds. 

 

Send him a drawing with your needs and measurements, he will create a pattern and email it to you for checking and approval and when all is right will make the sails you need. That is what I will do when I get to that point in my Providence. There is no way I could duplicate his work.

 

Here is a copy of the answer to my correspondence with Radimer.

 

Below is standard way of sewing the sails per order. But now I can do it when my colleaque will health. Until then, we can determine the size a sails for sewing and programing it.

Standard way sewing sails per order:

Then I need known size of sails. I send to you the table for write a size of sails.

When I will know size of sails, I will make program of sewing sails and find price of sewing. This price I send to you for confirm. And send a test sail sizes in PDF format. Paper exam of sails  you must printing and try on the model or plan.

After confirm that size of sails is OK I sewing sails.

When will a sails prepared for shipping I send to you photos of sails and invoice. Payment is possibility via Bank transfer or Paypal. After payment I will send it.

Complete process  will take about 4-6 weeks, because much orders.

 

I personally considered his method very nice. I though that there would at least be some cost up front to cover his time just in case. 

[MikeU48]

37 minutes ago, lmagna said:

You cover a lot of ground Mike but I think the short answer is that for you there are no "optional" steps.

Hey Lou,

Thanks as always for the reply.

I may have gotten to wordy on the rigging subject. I will contact Revell but I have to email Germany and it seems according to there website that the US service Dept. is closed for revamping.

I'll try to make my long story short. In the Revell instructions for the Connie there is a symbol used for option parts. This is the case with several sections of the running rigging. As I understand it the build can be done with just the running rigging or with the running rigging necessary for sails. Some areas of the Rigging Only option are included with the sails option as I see repetitive steps for both. The rigging only option is just more extensive.

I hope I cleared that up a little.

[daddytotwo]

Hey mike you are doing an incredible job on her! I just started this model, Again, in December. I think going thru you build up to this point has really caused me to up my game!  And, it has caused me to send a lot of my money to Europe in the last few weeks 😉 

 

Keep up the great work and swing by and check my build out! 👍🏻

 

[MikeU48]

Hey Daddytotwo,

Thanks for the compliment. Tell Radimir at HisModels in the Czeck Republic I said HI!!!

I'm headed over to your build now and I'll pull up at chair. Anxious to see your build and progress along the way. Got any Dr. Pepper and Pretzels??? lol

[Ozark]

Hey Mike

Hope everything is going ok, you haven't posted in a while. 

I took a big break also, but I'm back at it now. If you don't get back to work I will catch up to you. lol.

 

Ozark

 

[SigEp Ziggy]

I had started watched your build some time ago, and now I'm a member and gave you some likes.  This is the first time I commented and hope you have found the time to work on your 'Connie'.  I would love to see an update.