Jorge Hedges Posted February 20, 2019 Share #1 Posted February 20, 2019 (edited) Hello Gents! ramping up my tool selection... eagerly awaiting the arrival of a brand spanking new Byrnes Table Saw. Any good material/website on how to make the best of the equipment, including initial setup? Now pondering if and when I get the thickness sander... regards, Jorge Edited February 20, 2019 by Jorge Hedges Cause I can’t spell!!! 😃 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vossiewulf Posted February 20, 2019 Share #2 Posted February 20, 2019 Search the forum, there are lots of threads. Jorge Hedges, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote Building HM Cutter Lady Nelson 1:64 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted February 20, 2019 Share #3 Posted February 20, 2019 The Byrnes saw comes fully set up and you shouldn't have to adjust anything as it's pretty much pinned in alignment. Look at the way the fence indexes into the guides and you will see what I mean. Check out the topics posted above and you will be all set. Kurt Jorge Hedges and Canute 2 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorge Hedges Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share #4 Posted February 20, 2019 Thank you for the quick reply, Gents! Will update as soon as it arrives... Jorge mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted February 20, 2019 Share #5 Posted February 20, 2019 My take on the progression is: Log - board == full size bandsaw ( a full size tablesaw can do some of it, but it is limited in stock thickness and dealing with other than flat surfaces. and is hazardous ) == thickness sander == Byrnes saw. I see the sander as producing stock for the Byrnes saw, not something to process Byrnes saw output. It can certainly do that, but using only the saw is more cost effective - even if the loss to kerf is greater. As others here have said - there are books on safe use of a full size tablesaw that apply to the Byrnes saw. As for shop size bandsawa, I got two take home lessons 1) you will not be happy with an economy model. 2) a bimetal or carbide blade is the only way to go. Jorge Hedges and Canute 2 Quote NRG member 50 years Current: NMS HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - POF timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - POF framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorge Hedges Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share #6 Posted February 20, 2019 6 minutes ago, Jaager said: My take on the progression is: Log - board == full size bandsaw ( a full size tablesaw can do some of it, but it is limited in stock thickness and dealing with other than flat surfaces. and is hazardous ) == thickness sander == Byrnes saw. I see the sander as producing stock for the Byrnes saw, not something to process Byrnes saw output. It can certainly do that, but using only the saw is more cost effective - even if the loss to kerf is greater. As others here have said - there are books on safe use of a full size tablesaw that apply to the Byrnes saw. As for shop size bandsawa, I got two take home lessons 1) you will not be happy with an economy model. 2) a bimetal or carbide blade is the only way to go. I have a full size Dewalt table saw that I may use to cut down to manageable stock to then cut on the Byrnes saw. Thinking of adding the thickness sander later on... Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 21, 2019 Share #7 Posted February 21, 2019 Here's a PDF that might get you started... Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf Canute, JeffT, Ryland Craze and 1 other 4 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julie Mo Posted February 28, 2019 Share #8 Posted February 28, 2019 I just saw a Byrnes table saw review from Maximum Guitar Works. He did an out of the box run from unpacking to making the first cut. No tinkering beforehand. When he went to turn it on there was a clicking or knocking, as if something was hitting something else during the rotation of the blade. The MGW guy seemed a bit concerned at first and checked around a bit. But then he just started making the cuts. He never addressed the noise issue. Is that clicking/knocking noise typical in these machines? mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Julie First and only build: Endeavour - 1934 American's Cup, UK Challenger, J-Class - Amati 1:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted February 28, 2019 Share #9 Posted February 28, 2019 Mine does it occasionally. Seems to be related to the height of the blade. I have checked it carefully and can't see any obvious sign of anything hitting on an adjacent piece - so I haven't been very concerned about it. Kurt Canute, Julie Mo, No Idea and 1 other 4 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Idea Posted February 28, 2019 Share #10 Posted February 28, 2019 Mine does this sometimes and all it is on mine is the blade catching on the zero clearance insert. It makes a tinkling noise but stops after a while. It’s amplified on theses saws because the insert is thin aluminium and underneath it is basically a sound box. Nothing to worry about at all. Without doubt my Byrnes saw is the best tool I have ever bought. Canute, Julie Mo and Ryland Craze 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted February 28, 2019 Share #11 Posted February 28, 2019 Here are the links for the saw and sander reviews. Anybody who has one of Jim's tools will agree they are the best. Kurt Saw Review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OncQ9__278Y Thickness Sander Review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVCAYqrY3eM&t=1036s mtaylor, Canute and Julie Mo 3 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julie Mo Posted February 28, 2019 Share #12 Posted February 28, 2019 Go to 13:40 in this video. Is that the sound you guys hear? Captain Poison, Canute, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Julie First and only build: Endeavour - 1934 American's Cup, UK Challenger, J-Class - Amati 1:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted February 28, 2019 Share #13 Posted February 28, 2019 Not on my saw. If mine makes a noise it is with the flip of the switch and it's one "clink". There is a bit of sound from bounce in the motor and drive belt when operating but it makes a very slight, hardly noticeable, non metallic noise that disappears completely with a slight lift of the motor. Might be a bit of imbalance in the motor pulley - but I have used mine since 2003 - 16 years of pretty heavy use. If mine was making the sound in the video I would be checking it out. I had an addition to the house - the addition of a second floor over the whole house and my shop over the 3 car garage and I used this saw to do all the red oak trim. Much easier to move from room to room than the big chop saw - and as accurate if not more so. Cut through 3/4 read oak like it was balsa wood. Kurt mtaylor, Canute, Julie Mo and 1 other 4 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Idea Posted March 1, 2019 Share #14 Posted March 1, 2019 Just a guess but I think he left the long Allen key in which locks the blade height and it may have rattling around Julie Mo, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbyr Posted March 1, 2019 Share #15 Posted March 1, 2019 The noise was the belt hitting the guard. In transit the guard must have moved a bit, he had to slide the guard back a little. Jim Model Machines Julie Mo, Canute, Ryland Craze and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbyr Posted March 1, 2019 Share #16 Posted March 1, 2019 Steve also did a video on the Thickness sander for his guitar applications Jim mtaylor, Julie Mo and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisLBren Posted March 1, 2019 Share #17 Posted March 1, 2019 Those are great videos for both tools - quick question - I did a check today on my saw. It looks like when I rip a piece of wood Im off about .008 - meaning the front of the piece is .008 narrower than the rear. I bought my saw used here so just want to see if my saw needs adjustment. Based on the video its perfect out of the box ! Thanks so much for any feedback. mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbyr Posted March 1, 2019 Share #18 Posted March 1, 2019 Chris Dull blade, which blade are you using? Jim Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisLBren Posted March 1, 2019 Share #19 Posted March 1, 2019 Hi Jim, Actually its a brand new Thurston 293 .040 kerf - and this is a 1/4 inch piece of Basswood - something is off. It should cut this like butter. We can start a new thread - I hate to hijack this one - unless everyone finds this helpful. Roger Pellett, mtaylor, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbyr Posted March 2, 2019 Share #20 Posted March 2, 2019 Is it binding at all? burning? Jim Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbyr Posted March 2, 2019 Share #21 Posted March 2, 2019 Do you have an indicator or good machinist square to check the fence Jim mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbyr Posted March 2, 2019 Share #22 Posted March 2, 2019 How long is the basswood? Jim mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julie Mo Posted March 2, 2019 Share #23 Posted March 2, 2019 Jim, how do your blades hold up to cocobolo, hard maple, ebony and other dense hardwoods? I'll most likely build another guitar before I start another model. Seeing another luthier sing the praises of your TS for guitar building has re-sparked my interest. Prior to this, I couldn't justify the cost just for model building. Canute 1 Quote Julie First and only build: Endeavour - 1934 American's Cup, UK Challenger, J-Class - Amati 1:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thistle17 Posted March 2, 2019 Share #24 Posted March 2, 2019 I was speaking with Jim about this very problem just a few days ago i.e. the width deviation. We concluded with the amount of ripping I had previously done my .030 blade had dulled on the fence side. I could observe a slight deflection away from the fence when ripping even 3/64" boxwood and an attendant dragging or binding. It doesn't take much to have this show up even with a very slow feed and the blade just above the work. Oddly, or maybe not so, cross cuts seem to work with out binding. Here the cut is on the outboard side of the blade. I have ordered new blades. Remember these slitting blades have very little, if any, tooth offset and are not hollow ground so there is a side bearing component of load to these blades. Go to the Thurston web site to learn more about these blades. While waiting I have resorted to partial ripping of the stock i.e. running it through without the blade cutting through the surface, turning it over and running it through again. Not preferred but somewhat of a workaround. Joe Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griphos Posted March 2, 2019 Share #25 Posted March 2, 2019 I have his saw. I understand reluctance to spend several hundred on a tool for models, but when you think about it, it’s not that much relative to what you pay for materials, or even kits. If you only build kits, and never kit bash them, it may not be worth it as it may not get much use. But it is an exceptionally well-made tool, and I know tools. (I’ve even built a couple of stringed instruments!). 🙂 As for “holding up” to hard woods, that’s a matter of the sharpness of the teeth of the blade. The saw itself has the power and tolences to handle hard wood of reasonable dimensions. I’ve used mine to saw hard maple and even mesquite and ebony. Mesquite is very hard. Harder wood will dull the teeth more quickly. And I prefer the thicker default blade for them. Sawing a lot of hard stuff means you’ll need to learn how to sharpen the teeth (tricky at best on such small blades, and probably impractical with the Thurston blades), get them sharpened periodically, or invest in a new blade occasionally. Canute, Bob Cleek and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted March 2, 2019 Share #26 Posted March 2, 2019 7 hours ago, Griphos said: Sawing a lot of hard stuff means you’ll need to learn how to sharpen the teeth (tricky at best on such small blades, and probably impractical with the Thurston blades), get them sharpened periodically, or invest in a new blade occasionally. I use a "used" blade for cutting ebony and rely on filing/sanding to get the piece to the shape I want. I also try to keep several new blades of each tooth count on hand so if a blade does start showing it's age and wear, I have a spare new one on hand. Canute and Captain Poison 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbyr Posted March 3, 2019 Share #27 Posted March 3, 2019 Julie Hard maple, no problem cocobolo, ebony use a carbide blade. These woods are hard on any blade and are abrasive. Joe, The Thurston blades are hollow ground and the teeth have no set to them. They are actually for cutting screw heads and such. Not really for wood but they give a nice burnished finish and yes they will dull 10 times faster than a carbide blade. Jim Captain Poison, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted March 3, 2019 Share #28 Posted March 3, 2019 I use a carbide blade 98% of the time. I know there is more lost to sawdust with a carbide blade than the Thurston blades, but in the overall scope of things the ease of use of the carbide blade outweighs the lost wood due to the wider kerf - at least in my opinion. Kurt Jim Rogers, mtaylor, Captain Poison and 4 others 7 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Pellett Posted March 3, 2019 Share #29 Posted March 3, 2019 Griphos, Do you use Mesquite for ship modeling? What are it’s properties? I have a couple of logs given to me many years ago that I have never used. Roger Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted March 3, 2019 Share #30 Posted March 3, 2019 Chris: stupid question, perhaps, but I'll ask anyway. Is the blade mounted in the reverse direction? How do I know to ask this question? Don't ask! catopower, davyboy, Roger Pellett and 5 others 8 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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