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Optivisor Recommendations?


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So I’ve decided to go to the true “dark side” and try out a plastic model with infinitesimal PE add-ons.  Can anyone recommend a good optivisor?  There are a million on Amazon so thought I’d ask around here first.  I don’t mind spending a little extra to get something of better quality.  

 

Thanks in advance!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Mike:

The Optivisor by Donagan Optical Co. with GLASS lenses is the one to get.  The lenses come in different magnifications.  Go to the Donagan web site to see all the different lenses available and then you can search Amazon for the best price.  Stay away from the plastic lenses - I gave my plastic lens unit away after trying a set with glass lenses at a trade show - even before the new set arrived.  They have a magnifying Opti-loupe that can be put on either side and I recommend you get one.  I have the DA-5 and the DA-10 lenses - the 10's are for very close work.  The Opti-loupe lets you get higher magnification w/o having to switch out the lens plate.  I Highly recommend this untit.

https://doneganoptical.com/product/optivisor/

 

Kurt

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

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Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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Whatever kind you opt for, I recommend one that has the lenses in some kind of shroud, like the one Kurt linked to. I tried one that has the lenses sorta just dangling out there (like this one), and I found the un-magnified stuff in my peripheral vision very distracting. Plus, the interchangeable snap-in lenses were acrylic, and one of them broke almost immediately. I went back to a $3 visor from Harbor Freight -- works for me, but I bet the Donegal Optical set is pretty nice, too.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix

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Thanks guys, this is really helpful.  I really appreciate it!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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I like the one they call the Quasar, with the 6 LED's around the frame.  Micro Mark is one supplier:

 

https://www.micromark.com/Quasar-Lighting-System-for-Optivisor?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLDpBRCxARIsAEENsrLDhBwUahjs1Q803RRsoqXZJst80AnH3OquphONupWN3kehKJh_Bx0aAi1tEALw_wcB

 

It doesn't stick up and out in front like the single light above the center, and gives nice flat shadow free light.

 

     Richard

 

 

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4 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

Mike:

The Optivisor by Donagan Optical Co. with GLASS lenses is the one to get.  The lenses come in different magnifications.  Go to the Donagan web site to see all the different lenses available and then you can search Amazon for the best price.  Stay away from the plastic lenses - I gave my plastic lens unit away after trying a set with glass lenses at a trade show - even before the new set arrived.  They have a magnifying Opti-loupe that can be put on either side and I recommend you get one.  I have the DA-5 and the DA-10 lenses - the 10's are for very close work.  The Opti-loupe lets you get higher magnification w/o having to switch out the lens plate.  I Highly recommend this untit.

https://doneganoptical.com/product/optivisor/

 

Kurt

 

I have this one and can't live without it.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

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I have an optivisor and while it does work ok, it gets tiresome to wear at times.  I think I've found an alternative for some tasks.  Recently my auto remote stopped working and I found that a tiny 4-contact switch had broken off the PC board.  So I soldered it back on (what fun).  I took a couple of pics to illustrate the problem, and then I realized that my cellphone would be very good for close work and more comfortable than the optivisor.  I'm re-engineering a desk lamp to hold the cellphone for this purpose.  Here are the pics that I took while soldering on the switch that show the fine detail. (After re-soldering the switch, I globbed on some DAP RapidFuse superglue to ensure that it will stay in place.)

 

 

cphonepic.jpg

Edited by Bob Blarney
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The cellphone must mounted on a stand or arm of some sort.  One of the old Luxo extension arm lamps would be perfect for adaptation, or the old semi-rigid gooseneck lamps.  Alternatively. a machinist's dial indicator positioner could work too, but it would be a bit short.

 

I have a background in research surgery, where occasionally one must work through an operating microscope that has a similar magnification range.  It takes a bit of training, but it's doable.  It helps if the forearms are supported, as some people eat at a table with the forearms resting on the edge of the table, near the elbows.  Sometimes, the dominant hand is laid upon the wrist of the non-dominant handarm which is used as artist's maul stick.  

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1 hour ago, CDW said:

Interesting. That's exactly how i detail paint with a brush and/or an airbrush...use my non-dominant hand/wrist/arm as a guide for the dominant.

Another technique for fine control on small handheld objects, is to keep the pinky/rings fingertips touching each other.  For instance, try this for threading a needle.

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