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Posted

Seems to have worked . So first question . Bought a sheet of ply yesterday from my local supplier . we work in mm here so i asked if it was 6 mm which should be 1/4 . he assured me it was just short of 6 mm but on cutting a few pieces last nite i diccovered it was only 5 mm ,plus i think he said it was Chinese and to be honest i don,t think it,s great quality . would ply of 5mm or a good 3/16 cause problems to overall build as well as possible warp issues down the line .Don,t want to start off doomed from the beginning . Will search further afield today to see if i can find something better but just wondered if the 1mm could cause diffs later on ? 

Well at least i have made a start, and find those excellent build logs full of usefull info .

 

Boyd.

Posted

Yes indeed that would be problematic.  That would screw up the placement of all the gun ports.  I was initially going to use it on the prototype and abandoned the idea because I couldn’t make it work because of how it shifted too many things.  You really have to use 1/4” or 6mn.

Posted
17 hours ago, shihawk said:

You are hereby releaved of any responceability, LOL.  I  think i,ll chance it and worry about the consequences later , I,m no purist so don,t mind shifting a few things about to fit .. On my head be it and thanks for taking the time to answer , I knew this would be a fun build !!!

 

I don't know about that, Boyd. .5mm seems like a lot to be off by, but perhaps you will be okay. Good luck!

 

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Posted

I walked around a few of the big timber stores (UK versions of HOME DEPOT) with a micrometer and all the '6mm' ply on the shelves was between 5.6 and 5.85mm in thickness except for, surprisingly, a batch of smaller sized sheets at HOMEBASE which came out at 6.35mm. No expalnation for the different thickness of the smaller sheets as the store staff had no access to any information. Possibly a luthier suppler such as TIMBERLINE could help.

Since I am scratchbuilding I can get away with these dimensions but I discovered something recently that might be useful: I busted up an old desk and the drawers in it had ply bottoms. They were spot-on 6mm, and seemed to be better quality than anything currently on the shelves. The desk was at least 50 years old and probably made from 'nominal 1/4 inch' imperial plywood so do some tests before attacking the Admiral's favorite bedside table.

HTH

Bruce

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

Posted

Mike , tks for lookin in ,your build is a gem . i appreciate your concern but i still feel that as this part of the build will not be seen  i can fill out out when and if necessary . i,m probably wrong and have been before but time will tell . Let,s face it this model will not be on public display and as someone said it,s the journey that matters ..I live in hope !!!!!  Worst case senario i have to start over so i,m always learning !!!

 

Gregory ... I,m a farmer by trade ,,an inch means nothing to me ,lol

 

Bruce .. The amount of ply it takes for this build i would need the bed as well as the table , then she would be happy . I live in the sticks with limited local suppliers and past experience from online buying has left me wary . Problem now is nothing is like 50 years ago .All to do with cost i assume ?

Posted

Morning all , As i know u are like myself and enjoy plenty of pics i thought i,d post progress so far . I went ahead with the 5.5 ply which in fact is 5.4 -5.7 so the admiral got to keep the bed after all !!  This is just the basic stuff and how i did it ,no doubt there are better/ different ways so feel free to offer advice or opinions , i,m open to all and any suggestions . Sry pics not in order, i need a refresher course . IMG_0657.thumb.JPG.d390cccf22891c0e99aa6d6bcc776778.JPGIMG_0658.thumb.JPG.b7350dd9eb8df32ff651ecf96ade142c.JPGIMG_0658.thumb.JPG.b7350dd9eb8df32ff651ecf96ade142c.JPGIMG_0659.thumb.JPG.1f4e8aeafe61994e9b3bbbfb3ce3916b.JPGIMG_0659.thumb.JPG.1f4e8aeafe61994e9b3bbbfb3ce3916b.JPGIMG_0660.thumb.JPG.5f233a4f34d6e1f92dd7f5de91658b8a.JPGIMG_0660.thumb.JPG.5f233a4f34d6e1f92dd7f5de91658b8a.JPGIMG_0661.thumb.JPG.0ce604c0660d090a65acbd7100133b2e.JPGIMG_0661.thumb.JPG.0ce604c0660d090a65acbd7100133b2e.JPG

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Posted

lol ,,well that didn,t go to well maybe a bit of bouble clicking going on as well . Anyway nothing u don,t already know .Prit used to stick ,i find works well and is easy to remove . I didn,t try to cut to close to the line with the bandsaw and again when cleaning up on the bench sander tried to just leave the line on . Stayed of the line when cutting the slots due to my thinner plywood ,although am wondering if too tight a fit could restrict room for glue so left a clean sliding fit . Also left the bottom of the frames slightly proud to leave room for final fitting to rabbit.  Am thinking they would be a lot easier filled and shaped before the keel etc goes on  . won,t be gluing anything utill everything pre fitted . The reference marks on the frames are scribed with a blade and then marked with a pencil , just in case anyone thinks they will disapear when i remove the paper . Must admit i,m enjoying this project so far and look forward to following everyones progress 

 

Boyd

 

Posted

Tks for all the likes folks ,some times i will need encouragement . I made up the bow section from pear and although it may not be to everyones taste i love the look of natural wood grain , this has just been given a coat of sanding sealer for some protection and again i,m pleased with this type of finish 

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Posted

Tks all for lookin in.  I am taking pics on an i-pad and it seems to distort the colors quite a bit , but u get the general idea . Still can,t figure how to get pics in correct order and add text in between so forgive me if it seems a bit muddled at times . My naming of individiual parts may be a bit basic at times so bear with me if i mention " pointy bits " or " curved thingies " as i try to explain myself . Enough confessing !!!!

I haven,t managed to find anywhere local that can print those humungous A0 yet (another advantage of living in the sticks ) so took a chance and went ahead with adding the stem knee and keel assembly . Only variation to Chucks excellent instructions was that i glued the curved section of rabbet to the stem, and then fitted this to the ply bulkhead former ,meaning that any trimming to fit the curve came off the ply rather than the pear stem. Everything seems to have worked out ok . I must say this is a very clever and simple way of forming the rabbet line which is something i have struggled with before . Thanks Chuck .!!! Although as the pics will show i also did a few other variations . I used 0.5 mm brass wire to simulate the bolts on the keel and i used a strip of almost but not quite black wood for the false keel . I do like the contrast of different woods and as the build progresses this may become a habit , Managed to set up the build board and made a few of Chucks brackets which work great and easy to make .

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Posted

Frames all glued in and now preping for fairing .I noticed a few of my frames slightly out of line from port to stardoard (left to right ) so took the precaution of adding small spacer blocks to keep everything in line before fairing , added advantage of making the whole frame a lot more solid . Found a simple solution to supporting the bulkhead extensions (sticky up bits ) ,some old stiff packing foam ,with the added advantage of supporting the hull when upside down for fairing .Again some pics ..in no paticuliar order .

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