MESSIS Posted October 13, 2021 #61 Posted October 13, 2021 I suggest you name her Σαλαμινία (Salaminia) or Πάραλος (Paralos). Those were two sacret athenian triremes. chris watton and mtaylor 2 Quote
Johnny.D Posted October 13, 2021 #62 Posted October 13, 2021 That looks amazing mate, it looks identical to them all and flows seamlessly into the tail peice. mtaylor 1 Quote
Richard Braithwaite Posted October 19, 2021 Author #63 Posted October 19, 2021 Working on the penultimate deck canopy section. these will complete the main structure of the trireme. Its then outfit items like the Trierarch's chair, ladders etc and then 170 oars and seats... CiscoH, mtaylor, EricWilliamMarshall and 3 others 6 Quote
Richard Braithwaite Posted October 19, 2021 Author #64 Posted October 19, 2021 (edited) Starting to plan the first of these projects... Extract of plan 26 - looks quite involved... The timber frame is covered with leather on the sides and back and has leather strips for the seat "upholstry" Would be nice to make from real leather, but not sure if I can shave it down thin enough for 1/24 sale... Edited February 8 by Richard Braithwaite pjofc4, GrandpaPhil, Archi and 4 others 7 Quote
Johnny.D Posted October 21, 2021 #65 Posted October 21, 2021 Im just wondering, how long is this exactly, is it about 1500mm mtaylor 1 Quote
BANYAN Posted October 22, 2021 #66 Posted October 22, 2021 Really nice work on this build Richard; sorry for being a bit of a 'looker on' for so long. I have enjoyed following without making a comment. I managed to shave some nice 'kid' leather down for use at scale 1:64 so you should be OK if you tried? cheers Pat mtaylor 1 Quote If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch) Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350) Built: Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)
Louie da fly Posted October 24, 2021 #67 Posted October 24, 2021 That's beautiful carpentry, Richard. I'm very envious of your skill. Steven mtaylor 1 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht
Johnny.D Posted October 27, 2021 #68 Posted October 27, 2021 Hi guys, I came across a really unique process of constructing framed hulls. It seems extremely suitable for a smaller scale or miniature trireme model because of its exposed hull in final construction. It allows for the really small and thin internal ribs of a trireme to be made at small scale without the risk of breaking when planked over. The solid carved hull also provides a base for the ribs to be bent around maintaing the grain direction maximising strength. I just think this is really cool to share and might just give a bit of inspiration for anyone thinking of building a minitare olympias or any ship with an exposed hull of the sort with similar construction methods of a larger model. As such, I have my own eyes set on pursuing a miniature olympias model in the future. Archi, EricWilliamMarshall, bruce d and 4 others 6 1 Quote
mtaylor Posted October 27, 2021 #69 Posted October 27, 2021 That seems to be a pretty common jig for ships boats and small craft. I think Louie the Fly uses them on most of his ships also. Ryland Craze 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
Johnny.D Posted October 27, 2021 #70 Posted October 27, 2021 Oh I didn't realise, I've never seen the entire hull built over it, plus the ribs are glued on somehow to keep the shape and then taken off once entirely planked, I'll have to check out louie da fly's page. mtaylor 1 Quote
Richard Braithwaite Posted October 28, 2021 Author #71 Posted October 28, 2021 On 10/21/2021 at 9:02 AM, Johnny.D said: Im just wondering, how long is this exactly, is it about 1500mm The full size ship is 37m long, so my 1/24 model is 1540mm EricWilliamMarshall, Johnny.D and mtaylor 2 1 Quote
Richard Braithwaite Posted October 28, 2021 Author #72 Posted October 28, 2021 All deck canopy sections now completely planked: bruce d, AnobiumPunctatum, mtaylor and 12 others 10 5 Quote
BANYAN Posted October 28, 2021 #73 Posted October 28, 2021 Very nice work Richard, your model is looking great! cheers Pat Richard Braithwaite and mtaylor 2 Quote If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch) Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350) Built: Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)
Richard Braithwaite Posted October 31, 2021 Author #74 Posted October 31, 2021 Hawse pipes installed: shipman, davec, bruce d and 9 others 12 Quote
EricWilliamMarshall Posted October 31, 2021 #75 Posted October 31, 2021 On 10/1/2019 at 11:26 AM, Roger Pellett said: Unlike modern “high tech” rowing, this appears to be all arms and backs with short strokes The crew in the video is new so the first order of business is to be synchronized. Form would come later. An eight man crew takes a month or two before proficient and longer to be competitive. (That’s based on my personal experience from the 1980’s.) mtaylor 1 Quote Current adventures: USS Perry of 1843, model kit by Bluejacket - Scale 1:96 Lost at Sea: Dapper Tom - model kit by Model Shipways Previous adventures: an English Pinnace, model kit by Model Shipways, Opium Smuggler Schooner Yacht 1805, model kit by Authentic Holland Models Chesapeake Bay Flattie, model kit by Midwest, USS Constitution, model kit by Revell Albatros 1912, card model kit by HMV
EricWilliamMarshall Posted October 31, 2021 #76 Posted October 31, 2021 Thanks for sharing this build log! Most impressive - it makes me want to build one! Richard Braithwaite and mtaylor 2 Quote Current adventures: USS Perry of 1843, model kit by Bluejacket - Scale 1:96 Lost at Sea: Dapper Tom - model kit by Model Shipways Previous adventures: an English Pinnace, model kit by Model Shipways, Opium Smuggler Schooner Yacht 1805, model kit by Authentic Holland Models Chesapeake Bay Flattie, model kit by Midwest, USS Constitution, model kit by Revell Albatros 1912, card model kit by HMV
James H Posted October 31, 2021 #77 Posted October 31, 2021 Only just stumbled on this build, so now following along. Outstanding craftsmanship and subject. A large model too. 😵 Richard Braithwaite and mtaylor 2 Quote SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS. KEEP IT REAL! On the bench: Zip, nada! On Hold: HMS Winchelsea Double Capstan - Syren Ship Models - 1:48 Finished US Baltimore Armed Privateer Schooner Grecian 1812 (prototype) - Vanguard Models - 1:64 'Zulu' fishing boat, Vanguard Models - 1:64 Fifie' fishing boat, Vanguard Models - 1:64 HMS Flirt 1782, Vanguard Models - 1:64. Duchess of Kingston c.1780 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 HMS Sphinx 1775, Vanguard Models - 1:64 ERYCINA - Plymouth Ketch-Rigged Trawler 1882, Vanguard Models - 1:64. 'Nisha' - The Brixham 'Mumble-Bee' - Vanguard Models 1:64 'Saucy Jack' fishing boat - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Ranger 'Barking Fish Carrier' - 1864 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 HMS Indefatigable - 1794 (production prototype), Vanguard Models - 1:64. HMS Harpy - 1796 (production prototype) - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Indeterminate: Tender Avos - Master Korabel - 1:72. H.M.S. Victory (production prototype) - Amati - 1:64. HMS Granado 1742 (cross section) - CAFModel - 1:48
mtdoramike Posted October 31, 2021 #78 Posted October 31, 2021 What a beautiful ship, great work on her. mtaylor 1 Quote
Johnny.D Posted November 5, 2021 #79 Posted November 5, 2021 I'm just curious to know Richard, how did you replicate all the posts for the outrigger and top deck supports with their high part count and complex shape. mtaylor 1 Quote
Richard Braithwaite Posted November 25, 2021 Author #80 Posted November 25, 2021 (edited) On 11/5/2021 at 9:30 PM, Johnny.D said: I'm just curious to know Richard, how did you replicate all the posts for the outrigger and top deck supports with their high part count and complex shape. Unfortunately the shape of the hull changes so that these timbers have to be shaped individually. I used the jig shown in the photo below to ensure that the outer canopy supports would line up with vertically above the outrigger at the correct height...I cant find a photo of the arrangement I used for the outrigger supports, but the issues are very similar... Edited November 25, 2021 by Richard Braithwaite davec, mtaylor, Ian_Grant and 4 others 7 Quote
Richard Braithwaite Posted November 25, 2021 Author #81 Posted November 25, 2021 On 10/22/2021 at 1:00 AM, BANYAN said: Really nice work on this build Richard; sorry for being a bit of a 'looker on' for so long. I have enjoyed following without making a comment. I managed to shave some nice 'kid' leather down for use at scale 1:64 so you should be OK if you tried? cheers Pat Pat Thanks for the comment. Yes I was thinking that split pigskin lining shaved down might work. It needs to be about 0.25mm thick to fit in the recess in the arms of the chair... mtaylor and BANYAN 2 Quote
BANYAN Posted November 25, 2021 #82 Posted November 25, 2021 (edited) Hi again Richard, the other trick I have tried was to print a 'skin type' light pattern (which included the nail/tacks on the edges) onto brown paper, and pasted in place with a matt varnish. if the leather idea doesn't work out, this may also be worth experimenting with. cheers Pat Edited November 26, 2021 by BANYAN Richard Braithwaite, EricWilliamMarshall and mtaylor 3 Quote If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch) Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350) Built: Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)
Richard Braithwaite Posted November 26, 2021 Author #83 Posted November 26, 2021 (edited) I am using holly for constructing the Trierarch's chair. Its a remarkably fine grained hard wood that can be machined rather like a soft metal such as aluminium and I hope to be able to mill scale joints in accordance with the drawing. I have a large amount of holly from an 8 inch diameter tree that I cut down about 30 years ago (!!). I cut the (5 foot) log into 1 inch planks, painted the ends and stacked them to dry out in our garage. As you can see from the picture below they warped a bit while seasoning, which makes it a bit awkward to cut pieces from it, particularly as my circular saw (https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/) can only cut a maximum depth of 15mm...so I've been cutting chunks out of it with a handsaw... Here are some timbers machined to size from this log ready for final shaping and jointing to make up the various components for the chair. Edited November 26, 2021 by Richard Braithwaite davec, bruce d, GrandpaPhil and 2 others 5 Quote
Richard Braithwaite Posted November 27, 2021 Author #84 Posted November 27, 2021 Marking out and machining the chair back timber. I've purchased a set of 0.5mm engraving end milling tools which I'm using here to cut the base of the back and accurately cut the sides so that the width of the chair will be correct. As you can see the tool is very slender and delicate, I broke one by being overambitions about the depth of cut (0.2mm cut and a slow steady feed is tops for a hard wood like holly...). The cutting part of the tool is only 5mm long so I had to finish the cuts with a saw (maximum cut shown in the picture), but still a great improvement over me trying to do it freehand... m also hoping to use the tool for cutting mortices for the various joints as its is the right size bruce d, EricWilliamMarshall, GrandpaPhil and 2 others 5 Quote
bruce d Posted November 27, 2021 #85 Posted November 27, 2021 13 hours ago, Richard Braithwaite said: my circular saw (https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/) can only cut a maximum depth of 15mm... ? That is a surprise. Can I ask what size blade are you using? I ask because I want to know if there is a limitation on the saw that I am not aware of. I have cut 22mm oak on mine, am I possibly exceeding spec? I like what you are doing with this build. Bruce mtaylor 1 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold
Richard Braithwaite Posted November 27, 2021 Author #86 Posted November 27, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, bruce d said: ? That is a surprise. Can I ask what size blade are you using? I ask because I want to know if there is a limitation on the saw that I am not aware of. I have cut 22mm oak on mine, am I possibly exceeding spec? I like what you are doing with this build. Bruce I think you may be right. With my 100mm saw blade I can do a deeper cut. So I don't think you will be exceeding the spec if you can make the cut. It wont cope with a 5 foot long 1 inch thick holly plank though, so at some point I shall have to get/borrow a larger saw to cut some usable pieces for model building. Edited November 27, 2021 by Richard Braithwaite bruce d and mtaylor 2 Quote
Richard Braithwaite Posted November 27, 2021 Author #87 Posted November 27, 2021 (edited) First pic shows seat back machined on Unimat and second pic shows the outer and inner radius shaped by hand... The piece is deep enough for me to cut the rake of the seat back. I think I will cut the mortice and tenon first to give the join some strength and then work out how to mount it on my milling table to cut the rake... Edited February 8 by Richard Braithwaite bruce d, mikegr, BANYAN and 6 others 9 Quote
Richard Braithwaite Posted January 7, 2022 Author #88 Posted January 7, 2022 Continuing to machine the seat back... Built a simple jig to bolt to my Unimat milling table to incline the seat back at 20 degrees so that the slot for the tenon connecting the two halves could be milled... GrandpaPhil, mtaylor, popash42 and 3 others 6 Quote
Richard Braithwaite Posted January 7, 2022 Author #89 Posted January 7, 2022 Continuing with the Trierach's seat back. Photos in order from top left: 1. Seat back reoriented in jig. Shown after the rear face has been machined. 2. Jig altered to take out the 20 degree angle so that the front face can be machined parallel to the rear face. In order to hold the piece down I designed the jig with two clamping positions. This photograph shows the first clamping position which allowed the top half of the front face to be machined. 3. Clamp moved tot he second position so that the bottom part of the front face could be machined. 4. Front face completely machined 5. Completed seat back. As the maximum dimension of this part is only 23mm I think I would have struggled to make it without the help of my Unimat🙂 bruce d, bolin, Ian_Grant and 6 others 9 Quote
Brinkman Posted January 7, 2022 #90 Posted January 7, 2022 It's very impressive to see your machining skills! Very often you see people who seem to think that you just insert a piece into a mill and out comes the finished piece - this shows how much ingenuity that is needed. mtaylor and Richard Braithwaite 2 Quote
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