HMS Speedy by Delf - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64 - Master Shipwright edition

[DelF]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

 

I'm not sure what "purists" would be bothered by, I think it looks great.  Nice job!

 

Thanks! Much appreciated. I just thought the line of some of the strakes looked a bit odd. 
 

Derek

[DelF]

Bit more progress today, in between gardening chores - brief spell of warm sunny weather here, so I'm making the most of it. 

 

Removing the frame tops was surprisingly easy. The MDF broke off well - you just need to go steady to make sure you don't damage the gunport pattern, which is only 0.8mm thick. Gentle twisting with pliers is all that's needed:

Chris's instructions suggest using a file or sandpaper to clean up, but I found a new Swann Morton craft blade sliced through the remaining MDF and glue very neatly:

 

Next, I painted the areas inside the bow and stern that'll be difficult to do once the deck's in place. Speaking of which, I couldn't resist test fitting the laser etched deck:

 

Some unhelpful shadows here - I thought the deck actually looked pretty good. As a further test, I cut some boxwood planks and dry-laid them with a light pencil line to simulate caulking:

 

I'm still in two minds. If the boxwood was properly varnished it would look stunning. However Chris's design will be hard to follow, as the deck planks are tapered towards the bow and stern and are shown joggled into the margin plank. Do I stick with the laser deck, which I think is acceptable, or go for a stunning boxwood version and risk making a mess of it? I don't think I'd be satisfied doing a 'plain' boxwood deck - ie without the tapering etc. . Even though the finish would look great I'd miss the detail in the laser-etched version.

 

What do you guys think?

 

Derek

 

 

 

[Edwardkenway]

I agree that the boxwood would look amazing tapered and joggled  but you got to get just right, whereas the laser etched deck is done. If it were me I'd go with the laser deck. 

Hope this helps!!

[Vane]

I like the newly designed pattern better. There are too many details here around all of the holes.  

[glbarlow]

If you go with boxwood I don’t think you have to do all the detail around the masts and hatches. If you don’t go with the boxwood then send it to me, because I can’t seem to find any😂

[VTHokiEE]

I think the 2nd edition of the laser etched deck looks nicer than the first (from forum pictures at least). I purchased a etched deck for my Alert and I think it looks really nice. If you are at all considering the laser etched deck I would consider contacting Chris and seeing if you can purchase a second edition. You can see the differences here:

 

[dzerbato]

I will be using the laser deck (version 2). The focus of this ship to me are the hull lines and rigging/masts. Minwax natural with a satin poly ages to a nice, soft yellow hue on basswood. 

[Glenn-UK]

I went with the laser cut deck. Looks good to me. It is not the main focus of the build in my opinion, once all the deck fitting, masts and rigging have been installed.

[DelF]

Thanks everyone for your comments and advice. You all seem to be coming down in favour of the laser etched deck, and in particular version two.

 

I think I'll take your advice and forego the pleasure (?) of making a fully accurate boxwood deck on this occasion. Another time, perhaps. However I'm not sure which version of the laser etched deck I prefer. I get the point about the clutter around the hatches and other openings in version 1, but won't a lot of that be covered by coamings and the like? On the other hand, the trunnels stand out a lot on version 2 and they will be visible regardless. 

13 hours ago, glbarlow said:

If you go with boxwood I don’t think you have to do all the detail around the masts and hatches. If you don’t go with the boxwood then send it to me, because I can’t seem to find any😂

Glenn, for me it would be tapering the planks and getting the joggling right that would put me off. As for boxwood, I cheat and use the castello variety. It may not be quite the same as English boxwood but it still works well and gives a good finish. I get it in 3' x 4" sheets in a variety of thicknesses from 3mm to 10mm and mill my own timber for planks, spars etc. I'll drop some off next time I'm in Texas .  For really fine work, such as block making, I buy old boxwood folding rulers and they're guaranteed well-seasoned!

 

Derek

[DelF]

In the end I decided to go for a paper deck on which I'll draw my own planks.

 

No, seriously, I've gone for version 1  . Here I'm protecting it with paper and masking tape whilst starting to plank the inner bulwarks. With some relief I've gone back to using PVA, hence the number of clamps.

 

Derek

 

[DelF]

Hi SpyGlass

 

Here's the one I use. I call it PVA but technically it's an aliphatic resin - chemically similar to PVA but stronger and sandable.

It's described as fast grab, but don't let that put you off - there is plenty of time to position your work. It's fast in the sense that you should have a decent join in less than 30 minutes, although as with all glues of this type I leave critical joints such as frames overnight. 

 

I believe aliphatic resin is sometimes known as yellow glue, but mine looks white to me. I got it years ago - from memory at a model boat show - use it all the time and I've still got half left. The manufacturer is UK based Starloc Adhesives - here's their retail website shop-4-glue.com. You'll see they do a range of glues and applicators.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Derek

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

I use Super Phatic glue by Deluxe materials (50ml) which comes with its own plastic applicator tube for accurate positioning of the glue. This glue is a thin, non-fuming cyano alternative which dries in 10 -20 minutes (or quicker with finger pressure) It has a low odour, with water clean up. It penetrates much further than other glues. Waterproof when dry. Some of the many uses: Pin & glue balsa & hardwood. Bonds plastic hinges.

[DelF]

Work is progressing well now second planking is done (apart from above the wales).

 

Trimming the planks level with the tops of the bulwarks was straightforward. Unlike other colleagues in the Speedy club I didn't trim the planks round each port as I came to it, preferring to lay all the planks in one go then trim the ports after the glue had dried. I had to use off-cuts from 2nd planking the hull, otherwise I would have run out of strips,  but it wasn't a problem as I was able to use the short lengths to fill in gaps between ports. I just left the planks slightly over-length so I could trim them to final size after they'd dried. I used the usual combination of drill, sharp tools and files to do the trimming:

 

The oar ports were the trickiest, requiring a drilled hole followed by a square file. I drilled from the outside, holding a block of scrap wood against the inside of the bulwark to minimise the risk of breakout. Once again the boxwood proved its quality, being relatively easy to carve and file. The job also reminded me how glad I was that I'd got a set of decent Swiss files a couple of years ago - Vallorbe brand. Like many of us I'd got by for years with a set of 12 files for £5 from a DIY supermarket, and it wasn't until I got the good set that I found just what a difference they make - beautifully crisp and precise. I found the barrette file particularly useful on this job - that's the one on the left of the two above. It just cuts on one face, so I could get right into corners without damaging other faces.

 

Next job was painting the inner bulwarks. Two coats of diluted red ochre - I may give it more later:

 

 

I'm looking forward to finishing off the outer planking next. That'll feel like a milestone reached.

 

Derek

 

Edited March 10, 2020 by DelF

[glbarlow]

8 hours ago, DelF said:

otherwise I would have run out of strips

I’m a bit concerned about several builders near running out of strips both first and second planking...

 

we all have our methods around gun ports, thanks for sharing yours.  I like the idea of a file with a single face, I need to find one of those.

 

I sometimes cut a jig from scrap about 3-4mm height, long enough to hold on to, and the exact width of the gun port. Then attach 220 to one width side and 320 to the other with double sided tape and use it for a “file.” Being the exact width of the gun port and smooth wood on the sides gives me consistency. 

 

Looking good!

Edited March 10, 2020 by glbarlow

[glbarlow]

On 3/9/2020 at 3:24 AM, DelF said:

paper deck on which I'll draw my own planks

This is a fantastic approach...use pencil to draw the planks then you can redesign it every year🤣😂

[DelF]

I've finished planking the outside of the bulwarks, and decided to give them an initial sanding before trimming the gun and oar ports:

 

Apologies for the picture quality.

 

Derek

[Vane]

Nice, I am Working on my whales now.

[DelF]

Thanks as always for the comments and likes.

 

I'm still working on the outer bulwark planking, trimming the gun and oar ports. The miniature veritas spokeshave was ideal for trimming along the top of the bulwarks:

Trimming the ports was an exercise in care. I used the same tools as for the inside planking, but the outside will show more and there are no fancy decorations to cover up rough edges. Once I'd trimmed the ports I gave the hull a quick coat of shellac to reveal any spots still needing sanding:

On the whole I'm reasonably pleased. Probably some work still needed around the bows, but not too much when you consider the amount of coppoering.

 

Next, I tackled the wales. I took Chris's advice and used PVA and pins for these strakes. I'll paint the wales so the pins are not a problem. However, although the pins supplied with the kit were good for the first planking, I found they weren't beefy enough for boxwood, even with pilot holes. I used slightly larger pins - 0.7mm as opposed to 0.5mm, and they were fine. I also used Super 'Phatic glue as recommended by Glenn (Scarborough Glenn, I think, not Texas Glenn) and that also seemed to work fine. It was certainly easy to apply with the supplied nozzle.

 

Finally, I attached the prow, keel and sternpost. Here's the prow being glued:

 

This is another good example of Chris Watton's attention to detail - the four pegs supplied in the kit make it easy to ensure the prow is perfectly aligned as it dries.

 

The time for coppering approaches! All I need to do is mark the waterline and make sure the hull is smooth - I need to fill in some gaps around the keel and sternpost. I'm grateful to other folks' logs for showing me how careful I will need to be in marking the waterline accurately.

 

Derek

[Glenn-UK]

Looks very good, great work.

[glbarlow]

I’m envious of the boxwood planking.  Your work and the boxwood make for a very good looking result.  
 

 Yes Texas Glenn is all about the CA, it goes well with my general lack of patience.  I do use PVA on a lot of the model for parts that I need to align, so I’m not a total fanatic.

 

You're doing great!

[glbarlow]

On 3/10/2020 at 7:38 AM, DelF said:

decent Swiss files a couple of years ago - Vallorbe brand. I found the barrette file particularly useful on this job

Thanks for the inspiration. I bought a set of 6 Vallorbe files, then also bought two of the barrette files (#1 & #2), so much better than the files I’ve had for years. I used them in making my hatch lap joints for my in-progress cutter. Their precision cutting really helped. Admiral Cochrane approves. 

 

 

Edited March 16, 2020 by glbarlow

[DelF]

Great! Glad to help. I've gradually tried to replace my 'cheap & cheerful' tools with quality versions - the investment is always worth it. Like your paint job, btw.

 

Derek

Edited March 16, 2020 by DelF

[Suzdal]

Looking at the Vallorbe website is like walking into a candy store. They have so much choice. Never have know so much choice existed. I've just placed an order for their models:

   Limes de précision:  flat grooved on 3 sides and one grooved on 2 sides (top and bottom),

  and what they call rifloir, ones that have curved endings.

 

Thanks very VERY much for mentioning the site. Now all I have to do is keep impatiently looking at my mailbox.

 

Richard

[DelF]

That’s great Richard. At this rate I’ll have to ask Vallorbe for commission.  I got a mixed set of Their files, #2 and #4 cut, and that’s given me all the files I need (so far!). 
 

Derek

 

Btw I think rifloir is the same as riffler 

Edited March 16, 2020 by DelF

[DelF]

Hi SpyGlass

 

 On my mobile so can’t find record of set I bought  - I’ll try tomorrow. However, if you just get one file I’d recommend a barrette for the reasons I’ve mentioned. See here. #4 cut is a good choice for very fine work; #2 cut is coarser and therefore removes material faster but still gives a very good finish. The site I’ve pointed to has a bewildering array of files.
 

My set has 12 which is most of what I’ll ever need. The only additions I might possibly go for are slotting files - very fine files that jewellers use for cutting slots in small screws, and maybe some rifflers - the ones with curved ends for filing in awkward places. But I just like collecting tools!

 

Derek

[Suzdal]

Not knowing where you are located Bonjour SpyGlass,

 

Vallorbe seems to sell directly to only people resident in Switzerland. I live in France so I used two French websites in order to order some of their files.

 

Both sites will deliver internationally. I not knowing where you are located, but you should be able to find a local site where Vallorbe files are sold.

 

http://ecatalog-mob.maqprint.fr/chapitre.php?cha_id=920

 

The above site is well organized

 

Richard

[DelF]

Hi again SpyGlass

 

I've now got to my PC and found the set I bought a couple of years ago, from Eternal Tools - here. To be honest, I don't use all the files in the set, and could probably have done just as well with one of the sets of 6.

 

Eternal also sell in the US and Europe. The following video gives a really good review of Vallorbe files, and might help answer some of the questions you and others have about the use of the different file types.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Derek

 

[glbarlow]

On 3/16/2020 at 4:49 PM, SpyGlass said:

which files to order 

I order a packaged set of six (which look like Derek's photo) from Amazon then ordered the two barrettes as individual files also from Amazon.

[DelF]

I started coppering Speedy.

 

Unfortunately I've had to put the work on hold for a while as I've developed an adverse reaction to CA. I started to notice a problem during second planking when I suffered a streaming nose and constant sneezing. I didn't think it could be an allergy as the symptoms persisted long after exposure, and I'd used CA plenty of times before. I just thought I had a seasonal cold. However the same symptoms started again almost as soon as I began using CA on the copper plates. I did a bit of research, and according to Wikipedia around 5% of people will develop sensitivity to CA after prolonged exposure, and will suffer flu-like symptoms. I think prolonged is the key word - I'd never used CA for extended periods until I did the second planking, and that seems to have triggered the sensitivity and now I seem to be stuck with it. Looking for alternatives I tried odourless CA but I couldn't find one up to the job, and other glues don't seem suitable either. 

 

So I've concluded I need to let the current symptoms settle down, then start using the CA gel again but this time wearing a mask and with a fan blowing the fumes away. Probably should have been doing that all along. In the meantime I'm tackling some of the deck furniture, starting with the capstan and pumps - small but satisfying mini projects.

 

On the pumps, I tried the AK 174 burnishing fluid that Chris recommends in the manual. It works well, but I found that for good results it's best to rub the photo etch pieces with very fine (#0000) steel wool before assembly, then soak them in acetone or white vinegar for a few minutes before using the AK fluid. The result is much better than trying to paint such small and detailed parts.

 

Derek

[VTHokiEE]

15 minutes ago, DelF said:

I did a bit of research, and according to Wikipedia around 5% of people will develop sensitivity to CA after prolonged exposure, and will suffer flu-like symptoms. I think prolonged is the key word - I'd never used CA for extended periods until I did the second planking, and that seems to have triggered the sensitivity and now I seem to be stuck with it.

I have noticed several people, probably many more, on this forum with CA allergies and that is quite unfortunate. How long were you staying around the fumes during the second planking? I go very slow, usually only a pair of planks at a time, but I'm still thinking that I should set up some form of ventilation for it to prevent developing a reaction.

 

Everything is looking very nice btw.