Old Collingwood Posted June 13, 2020 Share #181 Posted June 13, 2020 What a great idea with those supports - keeping glue from seeping out has always been a problem for us builders - too little and the join opens back up - too much and we have some clean up to do, your idea looks good. OC. Edwardkenway, mtaylor and popeye the sailor 3 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cog Posted June 13, 2020 Share #182 Posted June 13, 2020 5 hours ago, Egilman said: it will move a bit faster now that I'm past the That's my experience too EG. That is to say, untill you have a somewhat complicated painting scheme ahead of you Edwardkenway, lmagna, popeye the sailor and 2 others 5 Quote Carl "Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson Search and you might find a log ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share #183 Posted June 13, 2020 12 hours ago, cog said: That's my experience too EG. That is to say, untill you have a somewhat complicated painting scheme ahead of you Yep, paint is the big thing with these monsters... I"m doing an overall metal finish on this cause that is the way most of them in US service was and the subject was.... First step is a base coat and prep is everything.... Engine, the engine has to be installed to fill the tailpipe which shows..... And the afterburner peeks out from the tail... Blackened burnt iron color looks good to me..... Next is getting a complete fuselage together.... Canopy masked and in place engine and tail is in place. Man, that is one long model airplane.... The tail isn't glued yet as I still have some fitting to do.... once done, a shot of primer, to check for fixes needed, then a coat of flat black..... this should result in a lustrous finish that will be clear coated to make it shiny once the metal finish is fully applied... The Canopy is glued with canopy glue so it's removeable after painting. Besides I'm considering an open canopy to show off what you can see of the cockpit.... Anyway making progress to painting an NMF on this big bird... EG Canute, popeye the sailor, Old Collingwood and 8 others 11 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted June 13, 2020 Share #184 Posted June 13, 2020 Coming on bro, a silvee finish isn't easy so I dont envy you. OC. Edwardkenway, lmagna, popeye the sailor and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardkenway Posted June 13, 2020 Share #185 Posted June 13, 2020 Coming on nicely EG 😁 popeye the sailor, Old Collingwood, Egilman and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds; Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25 Providence whaleboat- 1:25 HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 Completed: HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64- finished Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - finished Non ship: SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cog Posted June 13, 2020 Share #186 Posted June 13, 2020 You are certain it's an airplane, EG ... popeye the sailor, lmagna, Canute and 3 others 6 Quote Carl "Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson Search and you might find a log ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share #187 Posted June 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Old Collingwood said: Coming on bro, a silvee finish isn't easy so I dont envy you. OC. Workin' at it brother, and it's my first NMF as well....... Gonna need a bit of luck..... Thanks.... popeye the sailor, mtaylor, Edwardkenway and 1 other 4 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share #188 Posted June 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Edwardkenway said: Coming on nicely EG 😁 Thank you Ed, wish me luck.... Edwardkenway, popeye the sailor, Old Collingwood and 2 others 5 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share #189 Posted June 13, 2020 1 hour ago, cog said: You are certain it's an airplane, EG ... Yeah I'm fairly certain it's an airplane, although is does kinda resemble the tip of a pike...... {chuckle} mtaylor, cog, Old Collingwood and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted June 13, 2020 Share #190 Posted June 13, 2020 15 minutes ago, Egilman said: Workin' at it brother, and it's my first NMF as well....... Gonna need a bit of luck..... Thanks.... Your doing better than I could do with a silver finish keep up the good work bro. OC. Edwardkenway, Egilman, popeye the sailor and 2 others 5 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javlin Posted June 13, 2020 Share #191 Posted June 13, 2020 On 6/10/2020 at 7:47 PM, Canute said: Tacky Glue Now lets talk TG I bought some the other day thinking it might work for PE railing?Whats says you? Old Collingwood, Canute, popeye the sailor and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javlin Posted June 13, 2020 Share #192 Posted June 13, 2020 On 6/11/2020 at 12:04 AM, Egilman said: Most of that isn't going to show but it's there... I know it is.... {chuckle} So how long did it take you?I like belts but some companies are more of a pain than others I used RB Productions for the P-51 "Flying Dutchman" about 1 1/2 --2 hrs tops printed paper Now HGW's while nicer in the fabric a PIA for the very reason the material webbing was different.I am RB from here on out maybe it's I am just use to the procedure,The build is looking thus far EG I just wished I like the 104 more looks like a skinny lady Kevin Canute, Old Collingwood, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javlin Posted June 13, 2020 Share #193 Posted June 13, 2020 5 hours ago, Egilman said: then a coat of flat black..... this should result in a lustrous finish that will be clear coated to make it shiny once the metal finish is fully applied. A gloss coat of black gives a shiny coat you could gloss coat a flat black and probably get a shiny finish but why dig a ditch and fill it up when a gloss black will do the job?I did a flat black on a PTO P-38 it came out grainy and flat hated it "Virginia Marie" I use Alclad Black Lacquer Primer Gloss it works well NM is a medium I am becoming more and more comfortable with. Kevin here are the two planes the left is VM(about 4/5 years back) flat black the other gloss black(3yers ago) depending on the paints used Alclad goes down thin and I really could of used more on VM and the other while I did a better job still a little more was needed it shows in angles. mtaylor, Egilman, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canute Posted June 14, 2020 Share #194 Posted June 14, 2020 Kevin has the key, a gloss undercoat. Which metal paint are you using, EG? Canopy glue should be good for the PE. I haven't used TG for PE. I have used it for gluing styrene to wood. The canopy glue is like a thick white glue that dries clear and has some flexibility after it dries. I've glued PE running boards to plastic freight cars. Better than superglue, which can get brittle as it ages or gets cold. popeye the sailor, mtaylor, lmagna and 3 others 6 Quote Ken Started: MS Bounty Longboat, On Hold: Heinkel USS Choctaw paper Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1 Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #195 Posted June 14, 2020 1 hour ago, Javlin said: A gloss coat of black gives a shiny coat you could gloss coat a flat black and probably get a shiny finish but why dig a ditch and fill it up when a gloss black will do the job?I did a flat black on a PTO P-38 it came out grainy and flat hated it "Virginia Marie" I use Alclad Black Lacquer Primer Gloss it works well NM is a medium I am becoming more and more comfortable with. Kevin here are the two planes the left is VM(about 4/5 years back) flat black the other gloss black(3yers ago) depending on the paints used Alclad goes down thin and I really could of used more on VM and the other while I did a better job still a little more was needed it shows in angles. 38 minutes ago, Canute said: Kevin has the key, a gloss undercoat. Which metal paint are you using, EG? Canopy glue should be good for the PE. I haven't used TG for PE. I have used it for gluing styrene to wood. The canopy glue is like a thick white glue that dries clear and has some flexibility after it dries. I've glued PE running boards to plastic freight cars. Better than superglue, which can get brittle as it ages or gets cold. Kevin, Yeah I checked out Alclad thoroughly before rejecting it, there are easier ways I found out. I also checked out the various metallic paints and bare metal foil, most of which require an airbrush to apply which I don't have... I was looking for an easy way to apply metal finish that works for a rattle can guy..... Easy is always better IMHO... {chuckle} Ken, I know that for sprayed on metal finishes a perfect High Gloss black finish is the key to the sprayed on bare metal finishes. I'm not doing a spray on finish. and the undercoat can be any shade or grade I want it to be... I have to make a few tests first before I go to apply the finish to find the best base coat. But once I do that I will cover it in detail as I apply it to the model....... What I'm going to do is supposed to be so easy that anyone can do a bare metal finish even if they have never done one before.... The afterburner exhaust on the engine picture above (previous post) is burnt iron over brushed gloss black. I'm going to do it again in steel cause the iron looks nice but it a bit too dark..... This is going to be a learning experience and experiment for me, I've always wanted to do a BMF and this is going to be either a great success or an abject failure... It's is also a different approach, if it works, I will never shy away from a BMF ever again.... and no one else should either... Old Collingwood, Canute, Edwardkenway and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted June 14, 2020 Share #196 Posted June 14, 2020 7 minutes ago, Egilman said: Kevin, Yeah I checked out Alclad thoroughly before rejecting it, there are easier ways I found out. I also checked out the various metallic paints and bare metal foil, most of which require an airbrush to apply which I don't have... I was looking for an easy way to apply metal finish that works for a rattle can guy..... Easy is always better IMHO... {chuckle} Ken, I know that for sprayed on metal finishes a perfect High Gloss black finish is the key to the sprayed on bare metal finishes. I'm not doing a spray on finish. and the undercoat can be any shade or grade I want it to be... I have to make a few tests first before I go to apply the finish to find the best base coat. But once I do that I will cover it in detail as I apply it to the model....... What I'm going to do is supposed to be so easy that anyone can do a bare metal finish even if they have never done one before.... The afterburner exhaust on the engine picture above (previous post) is burnt iron over brushed gloss black. I'm going to do it again in steel cause the iron looks nice but it a bit too dark..... This is going to be a learning experience and experiment for me, I've always wanted to do a BMF and this is going to be either a great success or an abject failure... It's is also a different approach, if it works, I will never shy away from a BMF ever again.... and no one else should either... Keep at it bro your doing fine it will be super. OC. mtaylor, Edwardkenway, Canute and 2 others 5 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #197 Posted June 14, 2020 This is what I was talking about, the first pic...... Burnt Iron over gloss black... Steel over gloss black.... I like the steel finish better... All of this was done over one coat of brush painted gloss black, no spraying needed at all... What I've seen is you can use whatever color/finish you want under this stuff and it will change the tint/shade of the metal finish opening up a much much wider range of bare metal finishes than you will ever get with paint alone... I've watched it done enough to know this is where I wanted my first attempt at BMF to be...... I have that much confidence in this technique... Canute, mtaylor, marktiedens and 2 others 5 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted June 14, 2020 Share #198 Posted June 14, 2020 I like what you have done - its not easy (I tried it years ago on a Phantom - it didn't turn out too good)👍 OC. Egilman, Canute, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #199 Posted June 14, 2020 2 hours ago, Javlin said: So how long did it take you?I like belts but some companies are more of a pain than others I used RB Productions for the P-51 "Flying Dutchman" about 1 1/2 --2 hrs tops printed paper Now HGW's while nicer in the fabric a PIA for the very reason the material webbing was different.I am RB from here on out maybe it's I am just use to the procedure,The build is looking thus far EG I just wished I like the 104 more looks like a skinny lady Kevin She is definitely that my friend skinny and carrying a lot of sharp edged things around with her.... (pretty quick too if I"m not mistaken and doesn't like you not paying attention to her either) My set was Eduard, and full on brass while the restraint webbing was also Eduard from their fabric line..... made for two different kits as well along with the Brassin seat made for another different kit as well.. took me about two and a half days and a lot of that was modifying the kits cockpit to accept the parts..... The concentration required to assemble the eduard PE seatbelts was intense to say the least, it gave me very real headaches.... (even though the process was a simple one the sheer micro size was the issue) I may do it again, but not until I do a lot more research.... Airplanes aren't my main line of interest though, so it might be a while...... EG popeye the sailor, Edwardkenway, Old Collingwood and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #200 Posted June 14, 2020 3 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said: I like what you have done - its not easy (I tried it years ago on a Phantom - it didn't turn out too good)👍 OC. Well keep watching brother, if this turns out as easy as I've seen it done, the difficulty level of a BMF will be long gone, well within the ability of the average modeler..... Canute, Old Collingwood, popeye the sailor and 2 others 5 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted June 14, 2020 Share #201 Posted June 14, 2020 1 hour ago, Egilman said: Steel over gloss black.... I like the steel finish better... Bingo! The steel over black. Has better 'used' look than the other. Edwardkenway, Canute, Old Collingwood and 2 others 5 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #202 Posted June 14, 2020 Yeah I like the steel over gloss black also.... But I figured that I would do a test and see if what I've been told and seen actually works out for real.... What I'm going to be using is Uschi's metal polishing powders... essentially using a Q-tip you take some of the powder onto the Q-tip and polish it onto the painted surface So what I did was take a part from the junk box and put various paints on it.... This just happens to be the upper hull of an M-41 walker bulldog.... On the left end is Testors Gloss Blue Angels Blue under intense flash (looks more like ford blue here) and the right end has gloss black.... You can see where I've applied a little of the powder to various details on both ends.... Flipping it over.... Lower left is testors flat light aircraft grey, above that is gloss pepper red and on the right is good old testors flat black. On the red you can easily see where I have applied some of the powder in a recess in the fender well it came out almost like a mirror chrome.... In the opposite fender well I did the same recess over the flat aircraft grey. (but it's hard to see, I will take a shot in natural light and see if it comes out better) and on the left over the flat black in the lower recess.... Seems to give a very realistic metal effect but I'm not seeing a lot of variance except over the gloss red which is really super shiny.... On the upper surface again I went ahead and polished more of the surface over the gloss black....... Like I said it gives a very effective metalized surface... Taken from the end, the shine is pretty decent. but I"m going to try a few more things and see if I can get some variation in coloration... More in a bit.... EG Old Collingwood, lmagna, Canute and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #203 Posted June 14, 2020 Ok I did a little bit more... Front hull over gloss blue.... Under natural light... And the bottom side showing this over the aircraft grey where you can see it.... They look darker and deeper with more depth to the color on a flat base than a gloss base, but on the other hand on gloss they appear brighter and shinier... Well, I showed it to the Admiral to get her opinion and she like the coverage over the gloss black better than any of them.... Opinions? EG Edwardkenway, Canute, Old Collingwood and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmagna Posted June 14, 2020 Share #204 Posted June 14, 2020 I am in no position to judge which shade of silver will look the best, (Where is Craig when you need him?) but it does look that using this technique it would be simple to do multi panel hues with some panels looking shinier than others. Edwardkenway, mtaylor, Canute and 3 others 6 Quote Lou Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence Currant builds: Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold) Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral) 1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin) Currant research/scratchbuild: Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes Non ship build log: 1/35th UH-1H Huey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #205 Posted June 14, 2020 22 minutes ago, lmagna said: I am in no position to judge which shade of silver will look the best, (Where is Craig when you need him?) but it does look that using this technique it would be simple to do multi panel hues with some panels looking shinier than others. Hi Lou, heck I'll take any opinions at this point my friend... It's a very simple product and goes on very easy and gives a very natural metal finish no matter what I put it over..... That being said, I'm not seeing the color variations claimed, they all seem to buff down into the same basic color no matter what they are put on... so I'm wondering right now about the different panels situation as I do have a section where that is prominent enough to be a feature.... Gonna do more research... Canute, popeye the sailor, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cog Posted June 14, 2020 Share #206 Posted June 14, 2020 AK has a range called Xtreme Metal. They use a glossy black base coat, after which you can apply most any metal colour they've got, and it looks good. Even when using a hand brush. I use it on all exhaust manifolds at present, black base coat, burnt metal, pale burnt metal, metalic smoke, pale blue... that's about it. Hardly see it, but I know it's there. Getting a Nieuport (1.72) ready for spraying, which will be all aluminum. That will be painted in Xtreme Metal too, first the black base, then the alu mtaylor, popeye the sailor, Old Collingwood and 3 others 6 Quote Carl "Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson Search and you might find a log ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canute Posted June 14, 2020 Share #207 Posted June 14, 2020 EG, the black gloss or a dark grey gloss undercoat works well. I like the steel over black on the exhaust nozzle. Looks familiar to me. Great job showing your testing, too. 👌 I have a train buddy who was a master at doing the various shading of natural metal finishes, when he was an IPMS maven. He liked working with the various Alclad shadings. I think you may need several shades of the paint Carl references and apply panel by panel to get the variations you seek. I've read this technique on several aircraft modeling sites. Carl, are these paints or dry pigments you apply over the base coat? mtaylor, Old Collingwood, lmagna and 2 others 5 Quote Ken Started: MS Bounty Longboat, On Hold: Heinkel USS Choctaw paper Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1 Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javlin Posted June 14, 2020 Share #208 Posted June 14, 2020 I have used powders and they can do up a nice effect but beware the fingers once applied do gloss afterwards before decals are laid or you will have silver in the decals.I have often thought that if you shaded the panels beneath one should get variations in color(s) provided the paint is sprayed oh by the way I usually applied the powder over a silver paint.I think if you did gloss black,rattle can bright silver and pick panels with the powder you will get a Nice effect. Kevin Edwardkenway, lmagna, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #209 Posted June 14, 2020 3 hours ago, Canute said: EG, the black gloss or a dark grey gloss undercoat works well. I like the steel over black on the exhaust nozzle. Looks familiar to me. Great job showing your testing, too. 👌 I have a train buddy who was a master at doing the various shading of natural metal finishes, when he was an IPMS maven. He liked working with the various Alclad shadings. I think you may need several shades of the paint Carl references and apply panel by panel to get the variations you seek. I've read this technique on several aircraft modeling sites. Carl, are these paints or dry pigments you apply over the base coat? Hi Ken, I'm figuring it out I guess, I see that the gloss aircraft grey shows a little different, (lighter) than the gloss black does... The Gloss Blue shows no difference. They are dry pigments that go over paint.... The pepper red gave a nice almost mirror finish.... still experimenting..... mtaylor, Edwardkenway, Canute and 4 others 7 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #210 Posted June 14, 2020 50 minutes ago, Javlin said: I have used powders and they can do up a nice effect but beware the fingers once applied do gloss afterwards before decals are laid or you will have silver in the decals.I have often thought that if you shaded the panels beneath one should get variations in color(s) provided the paint is sprayed oh by the way I usually applied the powder over a silver paint.I think if you did gloss black,rattle can bright silver and pick panels with the powder you will get a Nice effect. Kevin Thank Kevin, I discovered very quickly that finger oils darken this immediately so yeah they will need sealing... and yeah individual panels have to be treated differently right down to the base coat of paint..... It is definitely the base coat of paint that creates the different shading effects.... not much different than masking for different airbrush effects..... Sealing, I went ahead and tried my Testors ultra gloss topcoat over this like I did on the Packard, this isn't the same stuff, very poor results... Clearly darkened the color... And at least half the brilliance is gone... (don't be fooled by the bright flash reflection, it's actually quite dark in natural light, too dark) So testors gloss coat is the wrong product to seal this with..... So I burned a few brain cells and thought I would try Future acrylic which we use to seal decals under... The underside tests coated with Future, they also turned dark, very dark although they did hold most of their shininess, Future would work if you want a darkened steel surface but not polished aluminium..... I did some research looking for application reports of using this and finishing for it on models specifically..... I found one report that says not to use a base coat or cover your base coat with high gloss automotive grade sealer, then when cured, use these powders, and after you have your desired look overcoat them with Liquitex high gloss artists acrylic finish/sealer.... they will retain the bright metallic finish and be protected from damage, Archival grade protection, according to Liquitex.. (non-yellowing, UV proof, scuff and mar resistant finish) Gonna run another test, now that I have Testors ultra gloss on it and future on the other side, I'm going to put some powder over those and see if the original applied sheen returns.... If it does, I will run to michaels and get some Liquitex high gloss varnish and see if what the manufacturer says is actually true and the sheen is unaffected by it... Stay tuned... more to come... EG Javlin, Canute, Edwardkenway and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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