Stephen Walters Posted July 30, 2020 #1 Posted July 30, 2020 Good evening from Tulsa, Oklahoma. I'm new to the forum and new to modeling and just hope I ask questions that make some sense. I've just started my build of the Bluenose II by Artesania Latina. Eventually, I will be edge marking the deck planks to simulate deck tarring. A number of modelers I've talked to say stay away from edge marking with any pencil lead because it leaves indelible smudges after sanding. Others recommend marker pens. I've tried some marker pens but the ink weeps away from the edges onto the tops of small test planks I'm using. The test planks I'm using come from the 0.6 mm x 5 mm basswood planks in the AL kit. Can of any of you experienced modelers recommend inks that won't smudge on sanding, or if that is unfeasible, recommend other ways to edge mark the planks? One way or another, I'm going to build this exquisite model. It is so beautiful. Stephen Walters thibaultron 1 Quote
Jim Rogers Posted July 30, 2020 #2 Posted July 30, 2020 Pencil works just fine. thibaultron, Ryland Craze, Gregory and 1 other 4 Quote Regards, Jim Rogers Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead. Adm David Farragut.
Stephen Walters Posted July 30, 2020 Author #3 Posted July 30, 2020 Hi, Jim. Thank you so much for your quick and kind reply. Will consider edge marking with a pencil. Stephen Walters mtaylor and thibaultron 2 Quote
SweepHall Posted July 30, 2020 #4 Posted July 30, 2020 Hi Stephen I've used thin black cotton thread coated in some watered down pva on my decking. It's a bit fiddly and pencil probably does the same job but just thought I'd give you another option. Bounty deck mtaylor and thibaultron 2 Quote Current build: AL HMS Bounty 1:48
allanyed Posted July 30, 2020 #5 Posted July 30, 2020 Welcome to MSW Stephen, Black tissue gift wrap paper works beautifully. You can get a package at a craft store like Michaels for a under $2US and it will last a long time. The appearance is much more clear than pencil or inked edges but does take a little more time than the pencil or inking method. If the scale is smaller, such as 1:98, I would go with pencil or marker ink. Allan thibaultron, mtaylor, bruce d and 1 other 4 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU
bruce d Posted July 30, 2020 #6 Posted July 30, 2020 6 minutes ago, allanyed said: Black tissue gift wrap paper works beautifully. Allan, I have been fiddling around with paper and so far I am making a mess of it. I really like the results others have achieved with paper and hoped it would pop up in this thread. Is there a description somewhere of how to get it right? Thanks, Bruce thibaultron and mtaylor 2 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold
Stephen Walters Posted July 30, 2020 Author #7 Posted July 30, 2020 Wow, this is a live forum! Love that idea about the black thread, Sweep. Your Bounty deck looks awesome. The black tissue paper looks intriguing, Allen. Like Bruce indicated, I also would like to find a description of how to use tissue paper for edging. Kind Regards, Stephen thibaultron and mtaylor 2 Quote
allanyed Posted July 30, 2020 #8 Posted July 30, 2020 Stephen For the tissue I apply a light coat of white or yellow glue to one edge of the plank. If it is to be tapered, make sure that is done first. Lay the plank with the glued edge onto the paper which should be on a flat surface. It will dry in a few minutes. I use a scalpel, as the blades are sharper and cheaper than Xacto blades, to cut the the plank away from the sheet, them trim any excess paper left hanging. Sorry I do not have any photos that would make it easier to describe. If this still not enough info, let me know and I will try to make up a couple planks with tissue and take photos. Allan mtaylor, bruce d and thibaultron 3 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU
Stephen Walters Posted July 30, 2020 Author #9 Posted July 30, 2020 Hi, Allen. Many, many thanks for defining the procedure. It is clear and concise. I will try it and will use a scalpel instead of an Xacto blade. In the meantime, if you have a few minutes, posting some photos showing the procedure would help immeasurably. Kind Regards, Stephen mtaylor and thibaultron 2 Quote
bruce d Posted July 30, 2020 #10 Posted July 30, 2020 2 hours ago, allanyed said: Lay the plank with the glued edge onto the paper,,, Sometimes the obvious needs to be said. Your way makes so much more sense than my 'take-the-paper-to-the-plank' attempts. Thanks, Bruce mtaylor and thibaultron 2 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold
Gregory Posted July 30, 2020 #11 Posted July 30, 2020 11 hours ago, Jim Rogers said: Pencil works just fine. It is also easy to do after the plank is glued in place. Doesn't have to be soft lead either, which is more prone to smudging. mtaylor, thibaultron and Estoy_Listo 3 Quote “Indecision may or may not be my problem.” ― Jimmy Buffett Current builds: Rattlesnake On Hold: HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett ) In the Gallery: Yacht Mary, Gretel, French Cannon
Stephen Walters Posted July 30, 2020 Author #12 Posted July 30, 2020 Ah, good idea, Gregory. I'll try it. Stephen mtaylor and thibaultron 2 Quote
justsayrow Posted July 30, 2020 #13 Posted July 30, 2020 I’m in the pencil camp. one thing to consider if you’ve not already: experiment with the different techniques before applying them to the model itself. I saw other modelers posting mockups and test runs and it kinda struck me as a blinding flash of the obvious: we can practice things! good luck! thibaultron, mtaylor, bruce d and 2 others 5 Quote ==================================== Currently building: Model Expo AMERICA, A/L KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI Completed: Mamoli Victory cross-section, Revell LSM (Plastic, in memory of Dad), A/L SANSON tug, MS Longboat (awesome model Chuck!), Dumas 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing runabout, A/L SWIFT, MS ELSIE, Constructo ELIDIR (now LOUISE), Midwest Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, Amati 1:80 Yacht ENDEAVOUR, Mamoli CONSTITUTION cross section, Revell VIIc U-boat (1:72 plastic), lotsa other plastic ships Next up: who knows - there are too many to choose from!
PietFriet Posted July 30, 2020 #14 Posted July 30, 2020 I have used both thread and pencil, but prefer pencil because it is easier to do and I like that you do not end up with clean lines. Although you may get (light) smudging when sanding, I like the look after staining with light oak. Maybe without staining it is less attractive so that could be a deciding factor. Picture below is the stained deck using pencil. Geowolf, MEDDO, thibaultron and 3 others 6 Quote Bounty - Billing Boats Le Mirage - Corel Sultan Arab Dhow - Artesania Latina Royal Caroline - Panart (in progress) Yacht Admiralty Amsterdam - Scratch build (design completed, ready to start build))
Gregory Posted July 30, 2020 #15 Posted July 30, 2020 41 minutes ago, Stephen Walters said: Ah, good idea, Gregory. I'll try it. Stephen PS Here is a post I made with an image of my method.. Just running the pencil over the exposed edge corner is all that is needed. The actual face of the edge will never be seen. mtaylor and thibaultron 2 Quote “Indecision may or may not be my problem.” ― Jimmy Buffett Current builds: Rattlesnake On Hold: HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett ) In the Gallery: Yacht Mary, Gretel, French Cannon
Charles Green Posted July 30, 2020 #16 Posted July 30, 2020 This is only my opinion: While deck plank seams on real ships were filled with jet-black tar - at model scale - I think the jet-black appearance created by ink or black paper draws the eye; it's "too black". I always prefer the appearance of plank edges darkened with pencil. thibaultron, Bob Cleek, Gregory and 2 others 5 Quote
Stephen Walters Posted July 30, 2020 Author #17 Posted July 30, 2020 This forum is awesome! Wish I had known about it years ago. After reading these kind replies, I have many techniques to try out. Many kind regards to those who replied, Stephen Walters mtaylor and thibaultron 2 Quote
Pete Jaquith Posted July 30, 2020 #18 Posted July 30, 2020 Stephen, I have had good success with a non-bleed fabric marker "FabricMate" from Jo Ann Fabrics. Regards from the shipyard, Pete Jeff5115, Bob Cleek, thibaultron and 6 others 9 Quote Pete Jaquith Shipbuilder
Stephen Walters Posted July 30, 2020 Author #19 Posted July 30, 2020 28 minutes ago, Pete Jaquith said: Stephen, I have had good success with a non-bleed fabric marker "FabricMate" from Jo Ann Fabrics. Regards from the shipyard, Pete 26 minutes ago, Pete Jaquith said: Stephen, I have had good success with a non-bleed fabric marker "FabricMate" from Jo Ann Fabrics. Regards from the shipyard, Pete 3 hours ago, PietFriet said: I have used both thread and pencil, but prefer pencil because it is easier to do and I like that you do not end up with clean lines. Although you may get (light) smudging when sanding, I like the look after staining with light oak. Maybe without staining it is less attractive so that could be a deciding factor. Picture below is the stained deck using pencil. thibaultron and mtaylor 2 Quote
Stephen Walters Posted July 30, 2020 Author #20 Posted July 30, 2020 43 minutes ago, Pete Jaquith said: Stephen, I have had good success with a non-bleed fabric marker "FabricMate" from Jo Ann Fabrics. Regards from the shipyard, Pete Hi, Pete. Will check out the tip. Many thanks. Stephen mtaylor, bruce d and thibaultron 3 Quote
CPDDET Posted July 31, 2020 #21 Posted July 31, 2020 I used pencil on my Bluenose and I'm quite happy with it. You can check my build log for pictures. As others have mentioned, do not use too soft of a lead. bruce d, thibaultron and mtaylor 3 Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose
Stephen Walters Posted July 31, 2020 Author #22 Posted July 31, 2020 Thank you so much for your reply. I'll take a look at your build log. In the meantime, can you tell me what your pencil hardness was. I'm thinking of using a pencil of no. 2 hardness. Do you think the lead would be too soft? Kind Regards, Stephen Walters thibaultron and mtaylor 2 Quote
CPDDET Posted July 31, 2020 #23 Posted July 31, 2020 #2 should work. You will find there is a lot of trial & error, experimentation and such with this hobby. Remember you can always take a few pieces of deck planking and try things before hand. I would think your model is a 1/64 scale and at that scale the caulking would be very, very narrow. So narrow that some believe it isn't necessary. thibaultron and mtaylor 2 Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose
bruce d Posted July 31, 2020 #24 Posted July 31, 2020 44 minutes ago, CPDDET said: You will find there is a lot of trial & error, experimentation and such with this hobby. Remember you can always take a few pieces of deck planking and try things before hand. By following this suggestion you will find the results of your wood, your glue and your sanding/scraping materials. All three affect the outcome and you may find that you just don't like carrying out a particular process despite liking the results other builders have produced. I sympathise, and a few experiments with the scrap wood from your kit will tell you a lot. thibaultron and mtaylor 2 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold
Stephen Walters Posted July 31, 2020 Author #25 Posted July 31, 2020 I concur with Bruce and CPDDET. There is so much to learn about model ship building. It's a much better way to spend my most precious resource, time, than sitting in front of a tv and learning nothing. Stephen Walters thibaultron, bruce d and mtaylor 3 Quote
thibaultron Posted August 1, 2020 #26 Posted August 1, 2020 When I built my MS Smoothbore Cannon, I used a Sharpie "Permanent" marker for the caulking. Big mistake! After I glued the decking to the ply subdeck, the marker ink ran al over the place while the glue dried ovenight. Had to remove the planks and start again. MS sent me a new set of deck planks free. bruce d, mtaylor and dvm27 3 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial
Stephen Walters Posted August 1, 2020 Author #27 Posted August 1, 2020 Mercy! I have thought of using a Sharpie marker, but am also thinking of just using a No. 2 pencil. I think I will just leave the Sharpie alone. Thank you so much for your reply. You may have saved me from making a terrible mistake. Kind Regards, Stephen Walters Gregory and mtaylor 2 Quote
Gregory Posted August 1, 2020 #29 Posted August 1, 2020 Is there a chance the paint will bleed into the wood and not just show up on the edge? thibaultron and mtaylor 2 Quote “Indecision may or may not be my problem.” ― Jimmy Buffett Current builds: Rattlesnake On Hold: HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett ) In the Gallery: Yacht Mary, Gretel, French Cannon
Bob Cleek Posted August 1, 2020 #30 Posted August 1, 2020 26 minutes ago, Gregory said: Is there a chance the paint will bleed into the wood and not just show up on the edge? I would definitely coat the wood with a thin coat of shellac to prevent absorption of black paint into the wood. (It would probably be less of a problem if you sprayed the black paint, but why take a chance?) mtaylor, Gregory and thibaultron 3 Quote
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