Muirneag 1903 by Blue Ensign – FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale - A Scottish Zulu Fishing Boat Based on the Vanguard Models Zulu Kit

[Blue Ensign]

Post 3

First hull planking.

Recalling my experience with the Fifie build it strikes me that the fore and aft filling pieces need a fair bit of further fining down otherwise there will be problems  of getting the final planking to look like it fits flush in a rabbet at the stern and stem posts.

The final pearwood planking is 1mm thick, as is the secondary stern and stem pieces which form the ‘rabbet’.

6716

It follows that the first limewood planking (1mm) which butts against the stern post and ultimately lies against the stem post will require sanding down to 0.5mm or preferably less to allow the top planking to lie flush against the secondary pieces with the minimum of sanding.

Once the second planking is completed the stem piece will need to be used to check that the first planking is adequately feathered to allow this.

The guide suggests that the planking starts at the stern and runs to the bow, where without the stem in place only a rough cut is required.

 

I prefer to work from bow to stern so I intend to set the plank ends at the bow using the stem piece as a guide.

 

For the first planking I decided not to fully line out but work by eye and hand to judge required taper and edge bend.

 

I fiddled awhile with the first strip below the pattern and decided that there was no need to taper from midships forward, but a small taper was required at the aft end from around the third bulkhead from aft.

6744(2)

With the plank clamped in place from stem to stern I marked the sharply angled stern end against the sternpost.

This was cut and again tested along the hull where a final adjustment was made including any requirement for edge bend.

A final check and the plank is glued and pinned.

6775(2)

Four planks down from the pattern and taper and edge bend is only required from four or so bulkheads from aft.

At this point I look at the Garboard plank.

 

Chris has been kind enough to provide pre-cut Garboard planks for the second layer Pearwood planking.

6748

I used these as a template to make equivalents for the first layer which I cut from some 1mm Holly sheet.

 

6756

Fitting the Garboard strake.

6764(2)

6765(2)

The Stem post is only dry fitted at this stage.

6777(2)

6781

Four strakes and Garboard fitted.

 

From the fifth strake down there is tapering and edge bending required for both ends

6761(2)

This photo shows the extent of taper and edge bend required

My approach is to taper and edge bend from midships forward, then temporarily hold in place while the taper and edge bend from midships aft is determined.

6787(2)

6791(2)

6790(2)

There are now six strakes left at midships, so I will do a tick strip exercise at the forward and rear bulkheads to gauge the taper requirements before completing the first planking layer.

 

 

B.E.

25/08/20

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 4

Completing the first layer.

I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted.

6802(2)

Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point.

These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel.

The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge.

6807(2)

I then added three further strakes from the keel up.

6813(2)

The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11.

6829

The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape.

6827

I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull.

6889(2)

The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking.

6878

I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’.

6884

I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post.

6899(2)

6877

I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts.

 

B.E.

28/08/20

[BobG]

Excellent planking and progress, BE!

[Rustyj]

Looking really good! 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Bob and Rusty, and to those who have looked in and 'liked'

 

Post 5

Preparing for second planking

 

With sanding of the first planking completed the stem piece and keel and stern pieces can be added.

 

I do rather like this method devised by Chris of having facing pieces in a nice wood which also provide a sort of rabbet for the second planking.

 

Slight set back as my assistant decided to practice some abstract canine carpentry on one of the keel strips that had fallen from my bench.

6976

Fortunately, a strip of Pearwood from the part retaining fret was available to make a replacement.

 

So here she is ready for the second planking, seems longer than the mere nine days since I actively started the project.

6920

Careful sanding down of the first layer around the bow and stern has allowed the ‘rabbets’ to provide sufficient edge to contain the second planking.

6925(2)

 

A first opportunity to compare the Fifie and Zulu side by side.

6908(2)

Sleeker than the Fifie and a tad longer, awaiting her transformation into a Swan.

 

6911(2)

They will make a fine complimentary pair representing the apex of the Scottish fishing industry of the early 20^th century.

 

B.E.

29/08/20

[yvesvidal]

Both boats are splendid. I love these hull shapes.

 

Yves

[Gahm]

Simply beautiful, B.E.! You probably mentioned it somewhere, is the upper part of the hull made of cherry wood?

 

Thomas

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Thomas, the outer planking is Pearwood including the bulwark pattern because the inboard side is on show.

I think the richness of Pearwood really suits this type of vessel, particularly once treated with a wipe-on-poly.  Cherry would also suit it very well. 🙂

B.E.

[PJG]

Very nice progress B.E., I'm looking forward to see how you tackle the interior details of the hold. I've actually been fooling around with fabricating herring for my build (1/32 fifie) so clearly your pursuit of detail is contagious!

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you PJG, I do intend to include the net platforms, nets, and floats in the hold, which is as much as can be done with this type of pob build.

 You've got a better chance of making herring at 1:32 scale, around 12mm in length, and their torpedo shape make for a simple design.

I will be interested to see how they turn out.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

 

Post 6.

Second Planking.

 

 

This begins with the pre cut Garboard planks, another excellent idea from Chris.👍

Head scratching over the Garboard shape and extent of its length is something that happens to a lot of modellers, me included, and I’m grateful for its inclusion.

6959

The supplied patterns are a perfect fit requiring only a slight bevel to the keel edge. I also heat induced a slight twist to the plank to suit the hull shape along the keel.

6938

I used pva to fix these planks as I limit my use of ca to the minimum.

 

Moving onto the Pearwood planking.

 

It may be that Chris has already amended the manual but for those following it literally there is a narrative error in instruction 14. That may cause confusion.

 

6902

References to the planking starting at the main wale position markings, which are shown on the gunport patterns, obviously relates to another model.

 

The planking I assume starts along the top line of the bulwark pattern as with the Fifie model, and this is where I will start.

I sorted thro’ the stock of Pearwood strip and picked out the best strips matched for uniformity and colour.

I am primarily concerned with the planking down to the waterline about twelve strakes each side, as this will be simply sealed with wipe-on-poly.

In the end I decided to go with the supplied planking for my Cutter Alert Kit (which I didn’t use) and which has overall more consistent milling and a richer colour tone.

6944

The first three strakes down were fitted without taper, the Pearwood strip easily followed the sheer line, getting a close fit at the stem and stern posts is the main consideration.

 

6942

Below the second strake and my normal peg clamps don’t work, and the third strake is the limit of my modified peg clamps.

 

6945

The fourth strake down required a little edge bending towards the stern, but no tapering, and thanks to the large hatchway there is purchase to use the larger clamps.

 

6950

The fifth plank down requires both edge bend and taper at the stern.

 

 

6956

Beyond this point the option of clamps is removed so a degree of ca will be introduced at the bow and stern.

 

6955

The pre-formed Garboard plank can be seen running along the keel line.

6953

6965

Pre-fitting I do fine down the ends of the planks at the bow to reduce final sanding.

6960

With five strakes completed I will stop here and use the tick trip method to work out the remaining planking requirements before I continue.

 

 

B.E.

02.09/2020

 

 

[BobG]

I'm really enjoying your build of the Zulu, BE. I have this one on the shelf and I'm sure I'll be referring to your build when I build mine.

[Rustyj]

Looking real nice B.E. That hull was fun to plank!

[glbarlow]

The same but different hull planking. Looks like a lot of fun. Thanks for the detailed explanations. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Bob, Rusty, and Glenn, the hull planking is a little more complex than the Fifie around the stern, but nothing like the complexity of  bluff bowed vessels. There is some variation in the thickness of the planks, but nothing that the sanding won't take care of.

 

Post 7

 

Planking continues.

 

 

I have calculated that 15 strakes remain at Midships, and tick strips were used to determine the degree of taper required at the forward and aft bulkheads.

Each plank from this point onwards will require both tapering and edge bending, the edge bending being related to the stern  areas.

Progress is slower now with each plank requiring several stages of operation.

 

 

I start at the stern, cut the stern post angle, and from midships mark where the taper begins.

6981li

With the taper cut, the degree of edge bend is determined.

 

6969

A combination of water and heat to make the bend.

 

6972

Test fit of the aft taper and bend.

6974

The plank can now be held in place, run along the hull, and the bow cut marked.

I don’t try to cut the exact line at this point and leave it a fraction long.

6977

From midships forward I work out the length and degree of taper at the stem post.

The natural inclination of the plank to rise upwards is evident.

 

6979li

The plank is still wet from cutting the taper in this shot.

Note - the start of the taper now lies fairly well back along the hull.

 

 

A final dry fit to check that the plank fully meets both stem and stern post.

A little bevelling may be required depending how the planks meet up. I do this using a scalpel blade on the top back edge of the plank.

 

I start at the bow and use ca to fix the first 50mm or so of plank and then pva up to a similar distance or so from the stern where I again use ca.

Drawing pins are used to hold the plank in place.

 

 

I keep one formed plank as a template to check the following planks as I work down the hull.

One advantage of the Zulu sharply angled stern is that if an error is made in plank length, it can be used further down the hull.

 

6982(2)

One strake shy of the waterline at this point.

Looking a little rough at this stage but nothing that final sanding won’t sort out. 🤞

6985(2)

The sharp upward sweep of the stern planking.

6988(2)

One more strake and I will re-do the tick strip to take account of any shift in the taper requirements.

 

 

The shipyard is now closing for a week.

Having deferred four holidays this year due to covid we are risking a trip to enjoy the delights of Devonshire. 🙂 🤞

 

 

 

B.E.

05/09/2020

 

 

[glbarlow]

Great work as usual on the no rush planking. I like how you demonstrated the bending and taper points.

 

Enjoy your holiday.  Ours was supposed to have been a trip to Spain and Portugal, we would have left next week. 😕

 

 

[BobG]

Wonderful explanations of your planking process, BE. I hope you have a nice holiday.

[Martin W]

Hello BE -- This is a sweet build.  With the planking on the lines of this boat come out, and I have to say they are fascinating with that sharp bow.  Your work is as precise as always and I for one appreciate that holly plank you had to use because it shows up the amount of spiling you had to do.

 

But William's face does not look at all guilty.  C'mon, confess it:  you staged that photo.  🤨

 

Hope you enjoyed your trip.  I think we're all getting itchy feet.  Good luck.

 

Martin

[Jim Lad]

She's coming along very nicely.

 

John

[Gahm]

Beautiful planking, B.E.!

 

Thomas

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for your supportive comments guys.

So back from glorious Devonshire, and a fine week of weather. Enjoyed a day out at Charlestown across the border in Cornwall, always good to have a look around old sailing vessels.

4861(2)

The shipyard is now back in operation, and planking resumes.

 

B.E.

 

[Gahm]

What a beautiful place! I envy you 🙂

 

Thomas

[Blue Ensign]

Post 8

Completing the planking.

After a week of fairly concerted effort I am happy that my least liked aspect of assembly, the hull planking, is completed.

7183(2)

With nine strakes to go I added two strakes above the Garboard Plank.

From this point on it is simply a question of working the planks  both upwards from the keel and  down from the waterline.

The aim is to get the inevitable (in my case) final less regular shaped plank to sit on the underside of the hull curve.

7194(2)

One more to go.

 

During these last few strakes I re-check the planking runs and re-mark the tick strips several times.

7197(2)

The completed hull prior to sanding

 

Overall the supplied planking was satisfactory; a fair number of the planks did have an element of feathering on one edge, and some inconsistency in thickness along the length, but nothing that the sanding won’t sort out.

7206(2)

7207(2)

I use Pearwood dust sprinkled over pva to seal any slight gaps between the planking strakes.

7210(2)

7212

Starting to look better, but some fettlin’ still to go before I move onto the deck and the areas that interest me most on a build.

 

B.E.

19/09/2020

 

[davyboy]

Very nice planking Maurice,bet you're happy with that hurdle cleared. I've started milling Buxus for my Speedwell planking above the wales,much still to do there,especially the short ones between the sweep and gun ports. Still,it keeps me out of mischief 

 

Keep up the good work,

 

Dave 

[Jim Lad]

She's coming along very nicely, Maurice.

 

John

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks John and Dave, 👍

@Dave, mention of sweep ports, gives me the yips, getting them to look good is the bane of my life.🙄

Post 10

Thinking about the deck

 

I naturally tried the provided pre-printed deck, and was pleased to see it fitted perfectly without any need for  adjustment.

7331(2)

The scaling of the planking looks spot on, the Muirneag’s deck comprises 6” boards which scale to 2.25mm

 

7316(2)

It certainly looks good in place and it caters for all the major required fittings one would expect to find on a Zulu deck.

 

7319(2)ps

I note particularly the coal bunker hatch, the pump deck plate, the fore tack hooks, Warp hatch rollers, and the distinctive Horizontal wheel fitted on Zulu’s. Perhaps the most striking deck fitting is the steam capstan, also supplied with the Fifie kit.

 

 

 

I was tempted to use the deck which for reasons I can’t fathom seems to suit the Zulu better than the one provided with the Fifie.

However, the deck also has a cut-out for a Fore Hatch which unfortunately Muirneag did not have in this location and would be difficult to mask.

Many Zulu’s, and indeed Fifie’s had Fore hatches, The Zulu Fidelity of 1904 had one in the same place.

 

 

On Muirneag the ladderway was apparently placed inside the aft end of the mast partners. This seems an odd arrangement given that the mast when lowered would appear to restrict access to the ladder, but that’s where it is shown on the Underhill plans.

 

 

So, on the basis that I am building Muirneag rather than any old generic Zulu, deck planking it must be.

 

7329(2)

I will be planking the deck using 0.7mm x 2.7mm boxwood strip which is a good fit.

 

 

The margin plank which usually runs along the bulwarks in scarfed strips differs on a Zulu.

 

Here the margin consists of inserts between the exposed timberheads. I won’t actually be doing this, I will use the timberhead ‘extensions’ provided with the kit to sit atop a margin plank fitted around the bulwark. These are both handed and position specific to take account of the sheer of the bulwark.

 

One annoying aspect I need to settle is that the printed deck is thicker than my planking, and this has a relationship to the timberhead extension lengths, I need to sort this before I start.

 

I didn’t have this problem with the Fifie build as the provided printed deck was thinner, an exact match to the planking thickness, so there was no issue with the timberhead extensions.

 

7325(2)

This is also a good point the test how the Poop deck carcase fits in relation to the deck planking.

A little more head scratching before I begin I think.🤔

 

 

B.E.

21/09/20

 

 

[Gahm]

Nice, clean planking B.E.! A pleasure to watch!

 

Thomas

[glbarlow]

On 9/2/2020 at 4:37 AM, Blue Ensign said:

shown on the gunport patterns

So, the Scots weren’t prepared to defend their catch from marauders 🤣

[Jim Lad]

I think it's a good decision to plank the deck rather than use the pre-printed one.

 

John

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Guys,

..and Glenn, I think the scots are prepared to defend anything from anyone 😉

I hope so John, but the alternative would be to stand something big over the Fore Hatch which isn't there on Muirneag 🙄

 

Post 11

 

Getting down to decking

 

 

I made the decision to sand down the back of the supplied deck to allow for the thickness of the Boxwood planking.

 

7334(2)

The printed deck therefore becomes a second false deck with the advantage of having the printed layout to follow as a guide.

The first task is to lay down the Margin plank.

The proper way to do it would be to fit the timberheads and fit sections between them.

However, to do it this way would impact on the provided timberhead pieces which were designed to sit on top of the deck, all individually sized and thoughtfully etched by Chris with the line of the Stringers.

 

7336

I simply can’t be tasked to remake all 98 of these tiny sections so I will follow the kit arrangement.

Once the Bulwark stringers are fitted along the timberheads very little remains to be seen of either the timberheads or margin sections, so it’s not something to be overly concerned about at this scale.

 

7339(2)

A fairly simple job to fit the margin, I am using 1.6mm wide strip which bends readily around the bulwark. Only at the stern end does the margin flare a little which is covered by a section of tapered 2.7mm strip.

The planking begins each side of the centre line, and I have utilised in part the pre-marked butt shifts on the printed version.

One edge of each plank is marked with a waterproof black marker to represent the caulking.

I use a broad chisel Pilot marker pen.

On this particular layout there is no joggling involved which simplifies things.

 

7345(2)

Nearing completion.

 

7349(2)

Completed but in need of a good scrape.

7358(2)

A check to ensure that the Poop deck framing and Mast partners fit.

 

At this point I have also beefed up the support stand, knocked up from bits and pieces but it works.

The kit provided stand is a display stand not really suitable to work on the model.

 

7370(2)

This particular hull shape is quite slippery and a stable support is necessary to hold it securely for work on the deck.

 

 

B.E.

24/09/20