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Finished planking the deck today.  There are about one hundred fifty 16" square x 24" basswood planks, plus ten 1/16" x 3/32" x 24" basswood mast partners.  If a modeler is ambitious and wants to do scale length planks (let's say 40' as one member suggested), it will take about 700 of them.  I wiped on and steel-wooled a couple coats of shellac, then added the laser-cut waterways.  Tomorrow, I'll finish fairing the hull and maybe put on the keel, stem, and rudder post.

 

The waterways actually fit the hull with just a tiny bit of tweaking!

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After this photo was taken, the transom was shaped to match the curve of the waterway.

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Edited by alross2
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hull is fully decked and has the waterways added.  Transom is shaped with integral "fashion pieces", and the hull now has its third coat of primer.  .  

 

Deck planking.  I used about one hundred fifty 1/16" sq. x 24" basswood strips for the deck.  

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Transom fitted.  Deck planks inside the waterways are masked.

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Third coat of automotive rattle can primer.  That's a 12" ruler on the hull bottom to give you an idea of scale.

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Edited by alross2
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In a rare moment of weakness, I felt bad for the modeler having to drill 250 evenly-spaced holes in the chock rail for the stanchions. 😎The chock rails are now four pieces of laser-cut 1/8" basswood with the holes already there. And, they actually fit the hull...

 

Chock rails are not yet glued down.

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Edited by alross2
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This weekend, I was looking at the chock rail photos and something didn't look right. I finally figured out that I had put them too far inboard. Duh!😱 I redrew them on Sunday and had Shane recut them this morning. It only took a couple minutes to strip off the old ones and install the new ones. Much happier now.😎
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Did a little experimenting. Photoetch is becoming increasingly expensive, so I'm seeking alternatives for items which do not require the strength of metal. Previously, small detail items that weren't feasible to make from 1/64 ply were photo-etched. Now that we're using laserboard, things are different. Here are some items cut today from .015" laserboard. The spreader is two pieces laminated together with thin CA and is amazingly strong. The other items are a window frame, a ladder, and the facia for a companion.

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Here's a little surprise I didn't tell you about.  This is a side project I've been working on while also doing WYOMING and OREGON.  This is an HO scale waterline kit of a generic centerboard schooner.  It is based on MATTIE/GRACE BAILEY and is named ELLIE MARA after Nic's daughter.  The hull is cast resin with laser-cut details and the usual britannia fittings.  Overall length is about 14".  It should be in production in a few weeks.  Contact BJ for details.  

 

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Edited by alross2
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  • 2 weeks later...

Experimenting with the mast. The bands are black construction paper that will be cut from lasered strips. They are closer to scale thickness than britannia and look like wrought iron, so you don't have to paint them. The items between the blue tape and the doubling are 24 sail hoops lasered from .015" laserboard.  The T shaped object is the laser-cut glut.  Once that is attached, a black paper strap ("barn door") will finish it off.  The boom jaw rest is five pieces of lasered 1/32" ply with a copper tape chafing plate.

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Edited by alross2
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Looking great.  I have nothing to point to, but the red ochre 'waterline' looks awkwardly low on the hull.  Curious what pointed you in the direction of doing it so low.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Working on the channels this morning They're laser-cut with the chain plate slots included. They're easy to set up as the second slot aligns with the center of the mast holes in the deck. The chain plates will be cut to length and a template will be provided to set them at the proper angle. The turnbuckles will attach directly to the chain plates.

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Starboard aft rail with all stanchions in place. Each stanchion has a slight inboard cant to it, so it's best to simply place but not glue then into their holes, then align them one by one with the top rail taped in place, The pegs on the stanchions will be snipped off flush with the top of the rail and will be covered with a .015" laser board cap rail.

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