1:8 1965 Shelby Cobra 427 S/C - Agora Models

[James H]

Morning all!

 

Adding to a Shelby I'm currently building, is the beautiful Cobra from Agora Models. I was thrilled with the original Shelby GT500, but I already think this takes it to the next level. I'm also a sucker for the more classic looking car. Agora's new kit comes in their new style box which is designed to withstand the rigours of our postal system, so it arrived with me in great condition. Included with the kit is a large poster, cleaning cloth, and a screwdriver in the first pack of parts. This one is also magnetic, unlike the one in the GT500. 

Pack 1

Stage 1:Hood/Bonnet assembly
As a nice teaser, that very identifiable bonnet is part of the first to item to be built. I still have no idea why some call it a 'hood' 😆

 

After having experience of one partwork where the bonnet latches were badly moulded and loose plastic bits only, it was reassuring to see that this model from Agora has some proper sprung-loaded latches that also look extremely good. Yes, a little fiddly to assemble, but definitely a nice touch. Some neoprene tape is also added to the top edge of the bonnet to protect the bodywork from being marked.

 

 

 

Stage 2: Left-leaning Front Wheel
 

 

Unlike Agora's GT500, we get an early appearance from one of the wheels. With this one, the centre wheel section is sandwiched between the outer rims, as well as being firmly screwed into place. It's also vital that you soak the tyre in just-boiled water for around 5 minutes to soften it enough so you can fit the inner assembly in position. This one still took a little wresting but it does fit in the end. 

 

Now the wheel brake is assembled as shown, and a single screw holds the parts together.

 

The brake assembly will only fit into the wheel in one position due to a slot system, and the wheel is secured from the outside using a screw. Be careful not to tighten too much or the wheel won't rotate. The hubcap is then pushed into the knock-on and this fasten my magic magnet to the wheel. 

 

 

Stage 3: Steering wheel and exhaust parts
 

 

I'm not sure what the leather seat is made from, but it does feel like leather and is beautifully soft.

 

The steering wheel also has a realistic wood grain effect. The Cobra badge fits to the middle and will only fit the correct way around as the locating pips are different sizes.

 

The exhausts are also a much fit and can only fit one way round.

 

 

Stage 4: Engine & Exhaust Parts

 

Perhaps the most fiddly part of this is curving the photo-etch edge of the air filter. To help, I first wrapped it around a small paint bottle and then inserted in the groove in the air filter top. This is all locked in place when the bottom is added. 

 

The carburettor bottom and top are now added and the whole assembly fitted to the engine block.

 

The exhaust manifold parts are numbered and plug into the main exhaust system. I found things fit a little easier by scraping away some of th chrome plating first. No glue was needed at all as everything was a very good fit.

 

 

Stage 5: Oil Filter and Exhaust Parts

 

The oil filter is fitted to the bracket which then connects to the engine plate. There's not a lot to this pack as the exhaust parts are scheduled to be completed in the next stage.

 

 

Stage 6: Exhaust Pipes

 

As with the first exhaust, the manifolds on this are assembled in the same way as the first, using the numbering system. This is a little fiddly but goes together quite well. Final adjustments can be made later in the build.

 

That's it until next time 😊

 

 

[James H]

Pack 2

It doesn't seem two minutes since Pack 1, and this beauty rocked up, so it'd be rude not to crack on and build it. Seems strange to be building the engine on this one so early when it was much later with the Shelby Super Snake. Certainly not complaining as I like the detail stuff. 

 

STAGE 07: ASSEMBLING THE ALTERNATOR

First, the alternator is assembled and then connected to the mounting arm and mounting plate. These last parts are then swung around, pushed together and then mounted to the oil filter assembly that was built in the last pack. 

 

 

 

STAGE 08: WATER PUMP PULLEY, CRANK SHAFT PULLEY AND TIMING BELT COVER

Work carries on with this part of the engine as the crank shaft and water pump pulleys are screwed together. The timing belt cover is then attached and timing belt added.

 

 

 

STAGE 09: LEFT CYLINDER HEAD COVER AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD PIPES

This pack only takes a minute or two to complete. All the manifold parts are numbered, as are the ports on the cylinder head cover. They can only fit one way too as they are keyed.

 

 

 

STAGE 10: RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD COVER AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD PIPES

...just the same for this pack, and then both cylinder head blocks can be tarted up with stage 11.

 

 

 

STAGE 11: ROCKER COVERS, CAPS AND SPARK WIRE HOLDERS

Both rocker cover caps are fitted to the rocker covers and these are in turn screwed to the cylinder head blocks. The spark plug wire holders are a little tricky. They kept dropping off my engine, but were later fixed using a knife and a spot of CA.

 

 

 

STAGE 12: DISTRIBUTOR, FUEL FILTER, IGNITION COIL AND CYLINDER HEAD CAP

The ignition distributor and fuel filter are fastened to the upper engine block with a single screw each.

The Cylinder Head Central Cover cap and ignition coil are then friction-fitted to the cylinder blocks. 

 

 

 

STAGE 13: ENGINE BLOCKS AND COOLING FLUID TANK BRACKET

Not a fan of heavy metal, but it's definitely appreciated in a build like this. With these parts, I can start to see how things will finally come together. The right ending block is screwed to the right cylinder head assembly.

The same applies to the left hand engine block and cylinder head assembly. 

 

 

 

STAGE 14: FLYWHEEL COVER, GEARBOX, INSPECTION COVER, GEARBOX RODS

Screws are fitted to the reverse of the gearbox inspection hatch.

The right flywheel cover is then fitted to the right hand engine block...

...followed by the left hand flywheel cover and right hand side of the gear box. 

After sliding the inspection hatch into position, the other half of the gearbox is screwed into position. 

All three gearbox rods are now installed. 

 

 

 

STAGE 15: OIL PAN, PROTECTIVE PLATE, SPARK PLUGS, SPARK PLUG WIRE AND WIRE CONNECTORS

The oil pan is screwed to the protective plate.

This model utilises a lot of hidden connections like this where screws are fastened on the inside and the flanged head is trapped between other assemblies. A neat trick to minimise external screw holes.

 

The timing belt assembly is now slotted into position the right hand engine block...

...and the protective plate fitted. 

The top of the engine is now fitted into position.

Both sides of the engine block area finally brought together, trapping the other sub assemblies, and creating a large and heavy engine. 

Care is needed to attach the spark plugs. A little push and they click into place. There is some wobble in them, but nothing I'm particularly bothered about.

And then the ignition lines are fitted. using a colour coded guide (for cutting the vinyl hose) and also for orientation of the leads to the ignition distributor.

[James H]

Pack 3

This pack now means that we're already a quarter way through this beautiful car model. Even though I absolutely love the Super Snake, I feel this one is even nicer, with its all metal chassis and ingenious assembly. You really do get the feeling that you're actually creating some engineering. Everything fits just perfectly in every way, and she's already gaining some early weight 😆

Ok, let's crack on!

STAGE 16: LEFT LATERAL CHASSIS MAIN FRAME BOTTOM SECTION Cross-members 3 & 4 bottom section

The left lateral chassis bottom frame is the main player here, and all we need to do is to fasten the two bottom halves of the cross members 3 and 4 to the frame. These are clearly numbered and there's nothing to go wrong here.

 

 

 

STAGE 17: RIGHT LATERAL CHASSIS MAIN FRAME BOTTOM SECTION Cross-members 1 & 2 bottom section

Now it's the turn of the right lateral chassis bottom frame. The cross members first screw to the left hand frame that I just built, taking care to get the offset holes in No.2 bottom cross member, facing the front of the chassis. With these in place, the new right hand frame section can be screwed to the left hand side, creating a symmetrical unit.

 

 

 

STAGE 18: FRONT SUSPENSION SUPPORT: Cross-member No. 4 Top, Left Horn, Right Horn

The first part to fit to the lower/bottom frame is the upper part of cross member No.4. 

The left and right horns now push onto the front suspension support. No glue needed here. This is now put aside until the next stage.

 

 

 

STAGE 19: LEFT LATERAL CHASSIS MAIN FRAME TOP SECTION

Yet more frame work! The front suspension support from the last stage is now screwed to the lateral left top chassis in this new packet. For this stage, that's it.

 

 

 

STAGE 20: RIGHT LATERAL CHASSIS MAIN FRAME TOP SECTION Cross-members 2 & 3 bottom top section

Now the right top lateral chassis can be screwed to the previous assembly as shown.

You can see just how well everything fits together as the top frame is fastened to the lower frame. Six screws hold these firmly in place.

Lastly, the two remaining upper cross member parts (No.1 and 2) are screwed into position. Again, numbers are cast into the parts so you really can't get this wrong.

 

 

 

STAGE 21: REAR CHASSIS PART & WISHBONE MOUNTING

The rear chassis is first screwed into position...

...followed by the rear suspension wishbone mounting frame.

Definitely some weight here now! Remember, this is all metal.

 

 

 

STAGE 22: RIGHT FRONT INNER & OUTER WHEEL RIM

The front inner and outer rims are screwed together. A very simple stage.

 

 

 

STAGE 23: TIRE & OUTER RIM

The reverse of this wheel is now screwed into position and the tyre added. To get the tyre on, it really does need to be soaked in freshly boiled water for about 5 minutes to make it pliable. Without that, you will most certainly struggle. 

 

...more next time!

 

[Egilman]

Very Very nice, But if I tried to latch onto one of those brother, I would have to leave it in my will to the offspring......

 

Fairly steep price tag makes pocher look cheap....

 

But they do build into incredible models..... especially the L/E versions....

Edited December 1, 2020 by Egilman

[Old Collingwood]

This isn't a model  - it's a  scale car    -  looking Superb.

 

OC.

[Edwardkenway]

Fantastic detail, I agree with OC it's far more than a model!!

[Canute]

I am gob-smacked. This is a scaled down car.

[James H]

18 minutes ago, Canute said:

I am gob-smacked. This is a scaled down car.

Pretty much.

 

This is the GT500 I'm building. Two more packs and it'll be complete.

 

[Canute]

Does that one have a CANBUS? Got a circuit board and wiring connections.

[James H]

5 minutes ago, Canute said:

Does that one have a CANBUS? Got a circuit board and wiring connections.

The electronics aren't networked. 

There are a lot of working bits for electronics though such as pedals that produce engine sounds, working horn, headlights and taillights etc.

 

Lots of other stuff works too such as the steering, folding back seat, opening doors, hood, trunk.

 

She's heavy when complete, weighing in at over 18 pounds! A lot of the GT500 will be metal when complete, including the shell.

[Canute]

James, I made the CANBUS comment with tongue in cheek, but it's not surprising at all that they have sounds for this car. They've managed to squeeze a sound board and speaker into N Scale locomotives. Use a cell/mobile phone speaker.

 

Where did they shoehorn the speaker and battery in this GT?  Fuel tank?

[James H]

1 hour ago, Canute said:

James, I made the CANBUS comment with tongue in cheek, but it's not surprising at all that they have sounds for this car. They've managed to squeeze a sound board and speaker into N Scale locomotives. Use a cell/mobile phone speaker.

 

Where did they shoehorn the speaker and battery in this GT?  Fuel tank?

On the Gt500, the batteries are in the car battery and the speaker is in the right side front wheel arch. You really can't see any of this stuff when complete. Oh, the dash lights function too.

[popeye the sailor]

no glue...........amazing how this is coming together!   very nice!  

[lmagna]

1/8th is so HUGE compared to 1/24th! But then I suppose that is what allows so much detail. Beautiful build James. I have always liked the looks of the AC Cobra. Dated for it's day in some ways but still iconic.

Edited December 2, 2020 by lmagna

[James H]

If anyone is interested, I'll also post the build log for the GT500 and my T-800 Terminator endoskeleton.

[Egilman]

8 minutes ago, James H said:

T-800 Terminator endoskeleton

That's one of my dream models, still can't afford it, But it would be perfect behind the door to my workshop where it can't be seen until the door is closed.....

[gjdale]

Wow! That’s a really nice build James. Looks like the modern equivalent of a Pocher model, only the parts actually fit properly! Now where’s the challenge in that?😉🤣

 

It also looks like there’s no painting required - is that correct?

 

All in all, a very, VERY nice model.......

[James H]

15 minutes ago, gjdale said:

Wow! That’s a really nice build James. Looks like the modern equivalent of a Pocher model, only the parts actually fit properly! Now where’s the challenge in that?😉🤣

 

It also looks like there’s no painting required - is that correct?

 

All in all, a very, VERY nice model.......

No painting at all, if you don't want to.

 

I suppose you could always add more wiring under the hood etc. and small details like that, but it builds up completely out of box without 'needing' a lick of paint or anything else.

[Landlubber Mike]

Wow, that looks amazing!  Just saw they have a 1:200 Bismarck upcoming as well 🤩

[James H]

Pack 4

STAGE 24: BRAKE PARTS FOR THE FRONT RIGHT WHEEL

In this stage, we simply build the brake unit for there front wheel. To start with, the spinner and hubcap are first pushed together. No glue needed here.

The wheel hub now inserts through the brake disc so that it freely rotates. The brake calliper then screws to the wheel hub whilst entrapping the brake disc.

The brake unit can now be fitted to the right wheel. This will only go in one way, and then a screw from the outside holds the two together. The spinner/hubcap them sits over the screw using its magnet.

[James H]

STAGE 25: LEFT AND RIGHT FLOOR PANELS

Before any work starts here, it's a good idea to use a bit of tape to hold the battery box line down on the part. I saw this on a build on the Agora forum, and it's a great idea!

The two floor panels are now screwed to the chassis with 4 screws each. The fit is perfect. 

And now the good bit...the engine is installed! Just two screws for this. I also took the opportunity to tidy up the cables a little as I left it a real mess last time. 

[James H]

STAGE 26: BRAKE PARTS FOR THE REAR LEFT WHEEL

As with the right brake unit, the left one is now built. Oddly enough, the wheel hub is shown as silver in the manual, but this is a nice black coated metal part.

 

 

 

STAGE 27: DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING COMPONENTS

The inboard drive shaft connectors are screwed to the bottom of the differential housing. 

Both drive shafts are now fitted and held in position with a serrated tipped pin. The drive shafts are labelled L and R to make sure they go on the correct sides. This is important due to the various offsets in each part.

The left rear wheel brake unit is now pinned into position pin the same way.

[James H]

STAGE 28: DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING COMPONENTS AND PROPELLER SHAFT

The rear differential housing cover pushes into housing unit, and then the top of the housing unit is screwed into position. 

The propeller shaft is carried over onto the next stage.

 

 

 

 

[James H]

STAGE 29: REAR UPPER SUSPENSION ARMS

More serrated pins are used to connect the rear upper arms to the arm holder. 

The differential unit is now loosely sat in place and connected to the engine by the propeller shaft. With this is situ, the arm holder is screwed into position, trapping the differential unit, and the arm is connected to the brake unit with another serrated pin. 

 

[James H]

STAGE 30: LEFT LOWER SUSPENSION ARM AND SHOCK ABSORBER

Using another serrated pin, the cylinder body is now fitted into position.

Now, the cylinder piston is connected to the lower arm. With the coil spring in place, this unit is then offered up to the assembly and pinned into position. At this point, there's a lot of tension in this!

[James H]

STAGE 31: BRAKE PARTS FOR THE REAR RIGHT WHEEL

Lastly, another brake unit is built. This time for the rear right wheel.

 

That's it until next time!

[jep1210]

I've never heard of this company. These kits look awesome....off to Google.

 

[James H]

On 2/26/2021 at 2:21 AM, jep1210 said:

I've never heard of this company. These kits look awesome....off to Google.

 

https://www.agoramodels.com

[James H]

PACK 5

 

I have to say Pack 5 went together very quickly and was a very satisfying project.
For me, this one is miles ahead of the beautiful GT500 I'm also building due to all the metal parts and general construction.

 

STAGE 32: REAR RIGHT LOWER CONTROL ARM

In this stage, we can continue with the suspension stuff that was built in the last pack, and tie some of those literal loose ends up. All of the parts in this are held together with serrated end pins that are pushed home with pointed pliers. The wheel hub built in the last pack can also now be attached.

 

 

[James H]

STAGE 33: REAR FLOOR PANEL 

The rear floor panel drops into place as shown and is secured by six screws. Two of these secure the floating driveshaft bracket securely in place giving that area some needed rigidity.