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HMS Terror by Erebus and Terror - FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - POB - as fitted for polar service in 1845


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  • 3 weeks later...

CANADA POST’S NEW EREBUS STAMP

 

Several months ago I mentioned on my blog that I was working on several side projects related to HMS Terror. Today, Canada Post unveiled a series of new stamps commemorating the Franklin Expedition and the 2014 discovery of HMS Erebus. The stamps include a permanent se-tenant issue and an international-rate stamp, and I was fortunate enough to have been asked to contribute an historically accurate plan to their design of the international-rate stamp. I also provided comments and feedback on the ship depicted in the se-tenant stamp.   

 

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The international-rate stamp showing the sonar image combined with  the upper deck plans. Image courtesy

of Canada Post, used with permission. 

 

The international-rate stamp combines a modern sonar image with an upper deck plan of HMS Erebus that I created. The complete upper deck plan is featured on an uncut press sheet and I also produced a cross-section of Erebus that will be included in packaging materials. The deck plan shows HMS Erebus in her 1845 configuration, which no contemporary plan depicts. This new plan is based on ones I created for HMS Terror, which I carefully modified to accurately match the dimensions, fittings, and features of HMS Erebus.

 

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The permanent se-tenant showing Erebus trapped in ice. Image courtesy of Canada

Post, used with permission. 

 

When I started creating plans of Franklin’s ships, I never expected that they would be seen by anyone but hobbyists and Franklin enthusiasts. I couldn’t have guessed that they might be used in a project such as this – especially juxtaposed with a real image of HMS Erebus. I was shocked at how accurately the plans matched the sonar image, which exposes much about the technology used on the search and the accuracy of the historical source materials relating to Erebus.

 

It was a thrill to work with the talented designers and professionals from Canada Post, and I’m very pleased with the result. 

Edited by E&T
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Congratulations on this, E&T.  This is major news indeed. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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As always.

OUTSTANDING.

They went to the most knowledgeable person on this subject... And that YOU.

Congratulations on your acheavments.

 

Going back to the model... Nice work on the rabbet.

All of your research and recording of this model is just mind blowing.

 

Nice mug. Do u use it.

 

Have a nice one.

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

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Congratulation on the stamp - it's well deserved.

 

Have you considered adding stamps to the model? I don't mean literally but maybe as an "Easter egg" hidden inside the hull, or maybe on the stand.

 

Richard.

Richard

Current Build: Early 19th Century US Revenue Cutter (Artesania Latina "Dallas" - messed about)

Completed Build: Yakatabune - Japanese - Woody Joe mini

Member: Nautical Research Guild & Midwest Model Shipwrights

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Hi.

News.. Here in the UK there is a documentary on this ship.

Hunt for the artic ghost ship.

On Tuesday 4th Aug C4 @ 9:00 pm.

 

Sorry for spamming your post.

Regards Antony.

Edited by AntonyUK

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

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  • 1 month later...

BUILDING A BOARD

 

My most recent sub-project has involved constructing a “building board,” essential for accurately aligning the bulkheads with the false keel of my model. The board needs to keep the false keel perfectly straight and perpendicular, while providing a flat surface for gluing the bulkheads at right angles to the keel.

 

I started the board by cutting a 1/4“ groove into a 32" long piece of MDF sheet. The groove is just slightly deeper than the false keel on the model, providing a full view of the rabbet, and fits tightly so that the keel remains perfectly straight.

 

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Marking the groove on the MDF sheet. The board is 12" x 32 ".

 

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I cut the groove into the board with a table saw. MDF is brittle, so care is needed at this stage. 

 

The stern and stem of the model also needed to be kept perpendicular to the board. To achieve this, I designed two supports, one for the stern and one for the stem, which would slot into the building board groove.  I used a laser cutter to make these from 1/4” MDF sheet; they fit together somewhat like a piece of Ikea furniture.

 

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My custom plans for the stem and stern supports. The idea for the interlocking pieces came from children's toys.

 

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Cutting the pieces from 1/4 " MDF. My local library provides a 60 watt laser cutter for public

use. 

 

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The pieces after cutting.

 

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The finished supports (stem on left, stern on right).

 

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It's hard to see, but the support has a rail designed to fit into the groove for proper alignment. 

 

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The supports were glued into place, and their alignment was double-checked with a square.

 

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I lined the groove with painter's masking tape to prevent damage to the model's keel. 

 

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I lined the supports with masking tape as well. 

 

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The finished building board.

 

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Instead of using set screws, which might damage the model, I used rubber bands to secure

the model in place. In practice, the fit was tight enough that rubber bands weren't really

necessary. 

 

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The bulkheads fit tightly and relatively squarely, but it was necessary to use a carpenter's square to 

ensure that they were at perfect right angles to the keel. These stainless steel squares from

Lee Valley were perfect for the task.  

 

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The second-to-last last bulkhead is put in place

 

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The completed superstructure. It's hard to see here, but two of the forward stations have

alignment issues at the area of the chock channels and bulwarks and will need to be

sanded and/or modified with  trim.  I double checked the plans, and the errors, around

1.5 mm off, seem to have crept in from my original measurements. These errors weren't

large enough to force me to re-cut the stations. 

 

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I'm quite happy with the alignment (the stern looks slightly twisted here, but it's

just a trick caused by the camera angle). 

 

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Midships bulkheads at the position of the rabbet.

 

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A view of the bottom of the ship. Again, I'm quite pleased with the alignment

(the stem and stern are still little wobbly and will need some filling blocks).

 

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Mini-Crozer stands on his deck. It's been a long time. 

 

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Mini-Crozier inspects the stern, noting that work is needed on the bearding line.

Though Terror was small by Royal Navy standards, a 102 foot ship was still a

substantial vessel, as this image indicates.

 

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Mini-Crozier stands at the Captain's sacred spot on the quarterdeck.  

 

Now that the bulkhead of the model is finally assembled, I can move towards planking it. A significant amount of fairing is necessary, and I hope to finish that shortly. Meanwhile, I've almost completed the "Phillips' Patent Capstan", and I hope to reveal my plans and model here soon. 

 

P.S. If you are interested in some new cabin accommodation plans for the lower deck, please see my blog (in my signature).

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E & T: nice to see you back at work and a good start on your building board.

 

One note of caution: the areas of stem and stern that are held by your supports could be an issue later on. I had a model that was in such a fixture for some time and when I removed the model, there was a definite pale area of unoxidized wood on the stem and stern under where the supports had been. Now, some 15 years later, there is still a faint patch showing in each of those areas. 

 

P. S. Nice blog!

Edited by druxey

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Hi Druxey, 

 

I appreciate the kind words (and thanks everyone for the likes). 

 

 

This is very good advice. I checked this morning under good light and so far so good. Given how slowly I build, I've been really worried about oxidation, almost to the point of paranoia. I keep all my wood (including the model) under the cover of a dark blanket when I'm not working on it (this despite the fact that I work in a dark basement). I've read that UV light is a prime factor in oxidation, while heat and moisture are secondary issues. I also control the latter two, and I have the electricity bills to prove it!

 

But again, this is good advice. Once the filling blocks are installed and I start fairing the bulkheads it shouldn't be an issue. Hopefully that will be done very soon. 

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Hi E&T.

Outstanding support for the build. Laser cutters cut nice and square ..

Lots of nice bulkheads. Makes for a nice shape ans accuracy.

 

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

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  • 1 month later...

CAPTAIN PHILLIPS’ PATENT CAPSTAN

 

To this point, my build log has included detailed notes about my research into Franklin's ships, and is largely a mirror of my blog, Building HMS Terror. While I know some followers have enjoyed my research notes (thanks for all the kind words of encouragement), others find them tedious, and recreating them here every time I finish a part has become quite time consuming. 

 

 

For the remainder of my build log, I've decided to do something a little different, and keep this primarily as a photo essay of my build. I'll continue to post research notes, but those will only appear on my blog. This change will also allow me to post a few more photos here, for those who want to see more wood and metal. 

 

 

So, with that formality out of the way, here is my attempt to build plans and a model of an 1839 era improved capstan. For those interested in the historical research I conducted, please consult my blog!

 

 

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An 1839 era Phillips, capstan, as I believe it may have been 
configured for use on HMS Erebus and Terror.

 

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Cutting the capstan components on an Epilogue laser cutter. 

 

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The completed pieces. 

 

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Vellum was added to enhance the joints of the capstan.

 

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The assembled capstan before sanding. 

 

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Sanded to shape. 

 

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Drilling the bolt locations. 

 

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The completed drumhead. Some Phillips' capstan models 

show lined socketsso I added boxwood liners. 

I admit that it was primarily an aesthetic choice. 

 

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I cut the drumhead plate from an unused pipe fitting which I flared to the right size. 

 

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I filed a lip into the plate by hand. 

 

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I cut the pawl rim (ring) out of brass plate using a jeweler's coping saw.

 

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I filed each stop by hand, after carefully scoring the brass

 

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The pawl rims were each made from pipe fittings flared to the precise diameter. 

 

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The pawl rim prior to soldering and sanding. 

 

post-639-0-96402000-1445277305_thumb.jpg

The piece following soldering. I used  copper solder for the first

time on this piece - despite being very dirty, it worked well. 

 

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To maintain the proper curvature, I cut the pawls from a copper fitting. 

 

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The pawls cut roughly to length. 

 

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Bolt holes were drilled before shaping. 

 

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Each pawl was filed and shaped by hand. 

 

post-639-0-17527100-1445277353_thumb.jpg

The completed pawl rim (ring) and pawls.

Two traits unique to Phillips' capstans can 
be seen here. First, the pawl rim was bolted through

each stop, rather than in the spaces.

Second, Phillips' capstans had between six and 
eight pawls, while earlier models typically had four. 

 

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The pawlhead. 

 

post-639-0-60116000-1445277376_thumb.jpg

The completed pawlhead with the top plate soldered in place.

Contemporary models show that the pawlheads on 
Phillips' capstans were made entirely of iron. 

 

post-639-0-51192300-1445277377_thumb.jpg

Dry fitting the metal pieces. The pawls need some thinning here. 

 

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Pieces prior to finishing and assembly. 

 

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Blackening the metal parts. 

 

post-639-0-74814900-1445277379_thumb.jpg

The metal pieces after blackening, buffing, and sealing 
(I use Krylon matte coat as a sealer). 

 

post-639-0-47739200-1445277380_thumb.jpg

The completed capstan. The wooden pieces have been

treated with Minwax wipe-on poly. 

 

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Detail of the pawl rim and pawls. 

 

post-639-0-97014600-1445278132_thumb.jpg

The drumhead (the drop pins indicate it is in direct-drive mode).

 

post-639-0-33056900-1445277382_thumb.jpg

Detail of the lower drop pins and drumhead plate (I couldn't find scale

chain small enough to model that feature). 

 

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Mini-Crozier inspects his capstan, recalling his good times with  Parry. 

Edited by E&T
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That metalwork was really labour-intensive! Lovely result, even if the pawl rim detail is mostly hidden.

 

Your (b)log is very nicely presented as well, E&T. Good stuff!

Edited by druxey

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Amazing craftsmanship. I liked the idea of adding the black paper in the joins to enhance the joins.

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

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Thanks everyone for the comments and likes. I really appreciate it. 

 

Greg, I use a product that Druxey recommended to me some time ago, called Jax brass and copper black (http://www.jaxchemical.com/jaxshop/shopexd.asp?id=45). I mix it about 8:1 with deionized water. It's far superior to "Blacken-It", which I've had no end of troubles with. 

 

This is the first time I've used copper solder and I'm really impressed with the results; once it's blackened you can't see the seam at all. 

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Hi.

As usual. Stunning.

There is not much more I can say.....

 

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

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E& T Absolutely incredible! I am always impressed with work that is accomplished with simple tools and hand worked methods in these days of ever improving modern ways of doing things. That said of course where would we be without the fine blades and files that we like to use with our hands.

 

Credit where credit is due.

 

Again really fine workmanship oozing with integrity, clearly demonstrated by your sequence of photographs.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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E& T Absolutely incredible! I am always impressed with work that is accomplished with simple tools and hand worked methods in these days of ever improving modern ways of doing things. That said of course where would we be without the fine blades and files that we like to use with our hands.

 

Credit where credit is due.

 

Again really fine workmanship oozing with integrity, clearly demonstrated by your sequence of photographs.

 

Michael

 

Michael, 

Sincere thanks for those very kind words. I've enjoyed following your beautiful builds (and learned a lot in the process). 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Dang, I missed your recent posts as I didn't get the notifications.  Nothing else can be said other than wonderful work and results.  Simply stunning!  Any chance of a change to HMS Erebus with the recent news?  :P

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Thanks very much for the comment! I really appreciate it.

 

I think many would prefer that I were building Erebus, but I still contend that Terror is the more interesting vessel. Not only did she have more adventures in polar regions than Erebus, she was actually used in battle. In fact, every time we see a baseball game, Terror gets serenaded before the match. Some of the "bombs bursting in air" were actually lobbed by Terror.

 

From another vantage, if Terror remains "lost", no one can prove that I got anything wrong in my reconstructions! :))

Edited by E&T
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