HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Frank Wouts 1/48

[FrankWouts]

2 minutes ago, Chuck said:

A really nice start...

Now that means a lot me Chuck, thank you!

[YankeeD]

Nice start!

 

However I personally do not like titebond. Tried them all, red, green and blue ones. They discolour too much to my liking and have a tendency to dry out faster while the strenth is equal to the white D2 D3 ones. But as I say, that personnal.

 

 

.

[wyz]

It's nice to see you start your Winchelsea model.  I wish you only the best in this project.  Should you run into a problem or just have a modeling technique question Chuck and a number of other experienced model builders are a post away.  Take your time, measure carefully and DON'T RUSH!  We look forward to following your build.

Tom

Edited February 24, 2021 by wyz

[FrankWouts]

Thanks YankeeD and Tom!

Okay, what glue do you prefer then?

I’m just trying to follow Chuck’s instructions to the letter so when I read to use Titebond in the laser char, I don’t take risks, though I have other glues on my shelf, including a bottle from Kolderstok... 

 

Thanks Tom, no I won’t rush, the rabbet strip is on the keel now and drying for two days already, here some pictures of my slow progress, but that’s a good thing I understand ☺️.

 

Frank.

Edited March 8, 2021 by FrankWouts

[wyz]

As the ancient Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu once said,  "The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step."  Frank, it's a great first step!  LOL  You only have a million more.   My primary wood to wood glue is Titebond (red), but for certain jobs I use fast, medium and slow curing cyanoacrylate glues.  I also use either rubber cement or the tiniest drop of contact cement for temporary holds.  There are even occasions when I have used Elmer's white glue diluted with water for certain rigging work.

Tom

Edited March 10, 2021 by wyz

[FrankWouts]

On 3/8/2021 at 5:41 PM, wyz said:

As the ancient Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu once said,  "The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step."  Frank, it's a great first step!  LOL  You only have a million more.   My primary wood to wood glue is Titebond (red), but for certain jobs I use fast, medium and slow curing cyanoacrylate glues.  I also use either rubber cement or the tiniest drop of contact cement for temporary holds.  There are even occasions when I have used Elmer's white glue diluted with water for certain rigging work.

Tom

Hi Tom,
Thanks for your advice on the glues, I will order them where necessary and try to use them as you advize.
Yes, there are lots of steps ahead for me, but wasn't there also, I believe a Greek Philosopher who claimed you can never cross a river: because you first cross the first half, than there is the second half, which again in its turn can be divided in two halfs of which you first have to cross the first half, and so on, thus in theory, one can never cross a river, as there's always another second half to cross.

Ofcourse I'm sure that with the right boat or bridge I will cross a river in no time, so as being an engineer (who now works in IT) I don't take those philosophers too seriously...

Then there's the persisting problem of long delivery times of tools and materials as till the end of March we are still in Covid lockdown and have a night clock, which means everyone must be indoors before 21:00u (€95 fine if you're not and get caught).
Furthermore, I have to divide my sparse free time off in building and studying for my second certification on TOGAF, The Open Group Architecture Framework, TOGAF Part II Certified. So I'm afraid I will not be building any faster than this the coming weeks and months, but I will get there hopefully in the end.

I hope your back problems are all over now Tom and that your making a fresh start on a POF Winnie as well now?
Or will you (also) proceed on the solid hull one? I would find the latter very, very interesting to follow!

Thanks, Frank.

[wyz]

Yes Frank, I no longer have back problems, and I've already started a solid hull Winnie II.

[FrankWouts]

A small update, was able to do some work this weekend, progressing slowly...if you notice an error please say so, so I can correct early, thanks!

Edited March 22, 2021 by FrankWouts

[Chuck]

Very nice work.....its looking great.  Just remember that the wood is soft so be careful not to dent and scratch it. You can protect the finished stem when its all done with some painters tape.

[FrankWouts]

1 minute ago, Chuck said:

Very nice work.....its looking great.

Thanks Chuck, and it works and smells great too, I’m starting to love that Alaskan wood.

[Chuck]

It holds a real sharp edge when you need it to.   Alaskan Yellow Cedar works very well for our purposes.

[Greg M]

Looking good.  Chucks recommendation regarding the painters tape is a really

good one.  The cedar is a fantastic wood, but it will ding if you look at it funny and you won’t even realize it.  Wish I had been more

diligent in keeping the tape on even when taking pictures.

[wyz]

It's a really nice start Frank.  I'm going to enjoy following your build.  Take your time and do it right.  There is no rush as it's not a race.

Tom

[FrankWouts]

Thanks Greg and Tom for your advice. I will put on some layers of Tamiya tape and leave it on as long as possible (I don’t trust the painter’s tape here in Holland as too many times before I had to remove the glue with sticker remover chemicals afterwards).

Slowly but steady, I’ve now finished the keel and ‘put the bolts in’ in the simulated Z-shape fastening of the logs. I read in other blogs the bolts were made of copper or bronze to withstand corrosion of salt seawater as much as possible, the bolt heads hammered flat to seal the position of the bolts on the thread and the holes caulked with flax and tar sealed. 

I don’t know exactly what technique was used on a British Fregat of the period we’re building, but this seamed the technique used for decades, or more than hundred years...

Even in 1910 this still seemed the technique when building wooden yachts.

There’s a very nice and for us model builders inspiring video of some kind of ‘crowd funding’ ‘ish’ yacht building project of the Sampson Boat Company on planking such a yacht and hammering the heads of copper/bronze bolts and caulking  afterwards here: 

 

 

Watching this, I guess it’s all good when using copper, bronze, cork or wood with a black edged circle

to simulate holes with the bolts.

But, like Chuck, I prefer a fully black look of them, as tar always seems to be the stuff being everywhere in all nooks and crannies on a wooden ship’s hull in all time periods.

As I did not have any black monofilament fishing line of 0,5mm at my disposal, I simply used polystyrene sprue stretched till 0,5mm (stretched with a lighter flame underneath, a very common ‘technique’ of WWI German plane builders for making the black German tension wires between wings) using black polystyrene sprue of an old Heller kit, I believe it was ‘Le Royal Louis’... 

After sanding and cleaning, the tape can go on protecting the  beautiful but relatively soft AYC.

I’m about setting up my workplank and  the next step will be putting the frames on. I read that the three import things to check are: 90 degrees of the ‘frames on the plank’, gun port / sheer / deck line laser markings on backside and align the downside of the frames correctly with the rabbet line, so that after sanding the whole sanded side area will be used for glueing the planks on.

On the fore and aft side this will mean that a little area of the frames will overlap  the rabbet line, but will be gone after sanding...

Edited March 28, 2021 by FrankWouts
typo

[FrankWouts]

Here some pictures of my humble, slow, but steady progress this Saturday...

[Chuck]

Very nicely done!! 😀

[FrankWouts]

4 hours ago, Chuck said:

Very nicely done!! 😀

Thanks! Just following your nice and clear instructions with great pleasure and excitement Chuck!

[tenderfoot]

Looking fantastic! We seem to be tacking along at about the same pace so will check in here regularly to follow along.

[FrankWouts]

11 hours ago, tenderfoot said:

Looking fantastic! We seem to be tacking along at about the same pace so will check in here regularly to follow along.

Good plan tenderfoot, I'll do the same, hopefully we can do things 'first time right' this way :-).

[oorsouw53]

Looks neat Frank,

you had a very interesting movie about the planking, but it will be a long time before we reach the closing boards

[Stuntflyer]

Looks really nice, Frank!

 

Mike

[FrankWouts]

On 3/29/2021 at 7:41 PM, oorsouw53 said:

Looks neat Frank,

you had a very interesting movie about the planking, but it will be a long time before we reach the closing boards

Thanks and yes, in this video every plank is a project of its own as well.

But let’s first finish Chuck’s chapter 1...😂👍🏻

[FrankWouts]

On 4/3/2021 at 10:53 PM, Stuntflyer said:

Looks really nice, Frank!

 

Mike

Thanks Mike! Your beautiful Winnie is still one of my inspirations.

[FrankWouts]

This Easter weekend, inbetween

visits, church and dinners and after the house was nice and quiet again, I was able to finish the keel and the working plank.

Unlike the instructions, I first glued and then screwed the t-squares in a straight line in the middle of the plank against the keel (and checked and double checked with my straight steel ruler) on the working board for extra rigidity.

Also, I test fitted and minimally adjusted a few frames and glued on my first frame nr. 28 under 90 degrees.

Happy Easter to you all!

[Edwardkenway]

Looking good Frank, the laser cut bulkheads look very nice!

[scrubbyj427]

Looks nice and straight Frank, time to start sanding!

 

JJ

[Greg M]

Looking good Frank.  You're going to be so happy once you start sanding that you went with the laser cut bulkheads.

[FrankWouts]

Everyone thanks for the likes and encouragements Edwards, JJ and Greg!

What you see is only the test fit of the bulkheads: I'm now glueing the frames on at a rate of two per day, one in the morning, one in the evening to not only giving the glue sufficient drying but also hardening time. Always with the squares in place, wood will always work and do its own thing and I just want to be sure to have done everything I can to minimize this.
Yes, I'm very pleased with the laser cut bulkheads, the sanding job ahead seems enormous, so no need having to do that on baltic birch or other very hard woods. Maybe they'll make the model more durable, but a model like this doesn't have to last a thousand years I guess :-).

[jfhealey]

That's looking very good, Frank. I noticed, though, that you have all the marks for positioning the wales facing aft. I thought the marks faced aft on the bulkheads from midships back and forward on the bulkheads from mid ships forward. It might be worth checking the  instructions unless, of course, you were only positioning the bulkheads to get your first look at how big this model is!

All the best

Fred

[Stuntflyer]

6 hours ago, jfhealey said:

I thought the marks faced aft on the bulkheads from midships back and forward on the bulkheads from mid ships forward.

Correct!