Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner

[druxey]

All's well that ends well? Looks really good, Maury.

[Windships]

A very well-done, WELL, indeed!

[Maury S]

With the well constructed, I've moved on to installing the main deck beams.

 

 

Same procedure with shaping the ends of the beam to account for keeping the face plumb and the beam resting fully on the clamp.

Maury

[Maury S]

The main deck beams are all installed.  Next are the carlings and the minor beams.

 

 

 

Maury

[Moab]

Fine work Maury...Moab

[Maury S]

Back to the shipyard after some traveling...the carlings are in, the mast partners are drilled (a bit over-sized) centered and glued and I've started on the knees on the port side. The knees are one-piece.  The mated pairs are just scored with a sharp pencil.  They may not be visible, but maybe... No issues to describe along the way.

 

Maury

 

[Maury S]

The deck beams and carlings are in on the starboard side.  Covering boards are cut.  They are each in two pieces.  To make sure they fit the boat as built, I held a piece of card stock on the deck and marked the edge of each frame top.  I used that pattern to make sure the scarph joint was properly fit and the covering boards matched the frames.

They lay well on the deck Not glued yet.

 

 

The marked holes for the bulwark stanchions will have to be individually cut or drilled out. Some adjustment had to be made as some of the holes per plan plan are situated on top of a frame.  They must fit between frames.   Stanchions will be .083"wide x .0625" thick. (4"  x 3").

Maury

[Windships]

Lovely 

can you cut those holes on your mill?  I don’t have one so forgive  me if a dumb?

 

will soon face the same issue on my sloop

[Maury S]

Re:  Drilling the holes with the mill...

That's the plan.  I'll use the Sensitive Drilling Attachment and drill a small hole at the corner of each stanchion hole then bore out the centers.  We'll see how that goes later today.  I guess I could use the jewelers drill press as well.

Maury

Edited July 18, 2021 by Maury S

[niwotwill]

Maury that's a lot of accurately place holes. I've had a similar problem with stanchions where I drilled a pilot hole the dia of the stanchion and then squaring them with a square swiss file. If your stanchions are rectangular keep working the edge to elongate. Keep in mind files only cut in one direction so the going is slow and I used a #0 cut file to prevent exit edge breakout. Just how I did mine but hope all works out.

 

The work your doing is looking good and it showing on how well ECB is coming along. 

 

On a side not I'll be in Mystic next month  and am working on getting aboard ECB. So far they have not said no and I'll seep trying.

[Maury S]

Slow progress.  I used the Sensitive Drill Attachment on the mill to drill the corners of each hole.  Then I used a #11 knife to connect the holes and then a swills file to square them up.  The holes are rectangular and I made a dummy stanchion to the proper size and file until it fits snug.

 

 

As you can see above, I had to relocate some of the holes because of frame tops.  Very slow delicate work but coming along.

Maury

[druxey]

I've had success by drilling one central hole and then opening it out with the square file.

[Maury S]

The port side covering board is being glued in place.  The outside edge of the stanchion hole has to line up with the outer edge of the frames.  I set a temporary stringer along the frames and inserted temp. stanchions in the holes that butted up against the stringer to make sure the alignment was OK.

 

Maury

[Windships]

Very cleanly done Maury. 

Not an easy task—on a real vessel or a model. Congratulations 

[Maury S]

Now that the covering boards are done, she gets taken off the building board to start work on the planking.  First step is to define the three belts on each side.  The Lankford plans have a planking layout so it made the process easier.  I marked the bands at the stem, the transom and at the dead-flat frame (#13).  I then laid a black thread connecting the three points and fiddled with them at each frame until they looked fair from all directions.  Diluted glue on the thread at the frames makes "rolling" the thread into place easier.  Hat Tip David Antscherl.

 

 

 

 

I'll have to look at it a few more times to make sure the lines are fair.

Maury

[druxey]

A fresh eye in the morning helps!

[Maury S]

I'm waiting on delivery of some 1/32 bass wood I can use for patterns for the garboard.  In the mean time, I'm working on the spar dimensions.  I have dozens of photographs of the her as a schooner between 1930 and 1940.  None before that.  With a number of shots of her side-on I can get the height of the main and fore masts and compare them with the over-all length (which is a known number).  The Lankford plans have the sloop-rigged mast at about 48.5 feet, or 105% of the LOA.  The photos as a schooner put the main mast at 38.25' or about 83% of the LOA,  the Fore mast at 35.25', the top mast at 18.25' and the bowsprit shortened to 14.15' outboard, down from 17.5'.  Some later photos show her with a jib boom, which I will not install.

Maury

[Maury S]

Pattern for garboard plank.  I have much better luck using bass wood for patterns rather than card stock (I can fine tune by sanding).  2nd attempt came out well enough to transfer to Box wood.  Some tapering first.  No edge bending on this one, but plenty of twisting.

 

Maury

[druxey]

Have fun with this step, Maury!

[niwotwill]

good idea to using basswood. I also have trouble with card stock patterns with things beyond planking.

 

[turangi]

Your model is looking great! When I built my ECB kit I started with the garboard strake on the starboard side but on the port side started the planking above the garboard according to the frame lines and worked my way down to it and found it much easier to shape and fit the garboard then as the upper planks are less complex in terms of twisting etc.. I twisted and shaped the garboard to approximate shape and incrementally trimmed it to a proper fit. Both sides turned out completely to my satisfaction. It was much easier to shape and trim the garboard to fit the existing space. Both sides were done according to plans.

Edited August 3, 2021 by turangi

[Maury S]

The garboard plank took some spiling to get it to lay properly and it now lines up with the planking plan.  The good thing about the plan is that it puts the forward end of the plank at the correct place so you don't get plank creep up the stem.  The plank is about 50% wider than an even spacing in the band.

 

The strings are no longer in place.

Maury

 

[niwotwill]

Interesting result after your basswood pattern. Looks good. I like the comments of two different approaches to the garboard strake.

 

 

[Maury S]

Planking continues...Each plank is spiled.  A piece of sacrificial bass is laid along the prior plank and marked with a compass to determine the shape.  The edge is cut and sanded so that it butts perfectly.  That piece is used as a pattern to cut the box wood.  Once the box wood fits properly, the frames are marked and the (tick strip) measured width is transferred to the wood.  It is cut and sanded until everything lines up.  Then heat-bent to shape and glued in.

Rough cut box wood is shown prior to final fitting.

Finished shape laid on frames.

Glued in place.  The planks are tapered between 0.11" and .078".  Even with all that prep, hairline gaps occasionally appear.  What may appear as larger gaps are in fact shadows between planks that will disappear after sanding.  Seventeen more strakes (on each side) to go.

Maury

[Maury S]

The "C" band of planking is complete.

 

 

The line of the top strake appears fair from all viewpoints.

Maury

[Maury S]

Damage in the boatyard.  I dropped the boat and the stem broke right along the rabbet.  Seems tight when putting it back in place.  We'll see.

Maury

[Windships]

“Here’s Hopin” (Roy Rogers)

[druxey]

Ow! I'm so sorry. Hopefully battle damage is minimal.

[niwotwill]

Oh! so bad. I know how it hurts and am hoping your fix will be perfect and you can proceed. Best of luck.

 

[mtaylor]

Here's hoping also that everything goes back together well.