HMS Winchelsea 1764 by westwood - 1:48

[Chuck]

Really nice...paying that kind of attention on placement will be very helpful.

[westwood]

Thank you Chuck,
I'm just trying to follow your building instructions and I'm glad
for your perfect templates and laser parts
and mostly for the helpful words.

[garyshipwright]

Hi Dusan. Your building is just outstanding and really look's good that's for sure. I have a question on the inside of her which has to do with the inside wall's.  In post 69 you showed the inside fairing and it is even and look's great. Can you give us just a bit of info on how you got them looking so good. Maybe what tool's you may of used to get them that way. Keep up the really impresses work and will be watching your build. Gary

[westwood]

Thanks Gary,
in the beginning I also used electric grinders.
Sanding around the ports was a little more difficult, because the port framing is made of harder wood than the balsa filler
and even the bulkheads are made of soft poplar plywood.
So the roughest parts with an electric grinder and then by hand with sanding blocks.
Follow Chuck's instructions, don't forget the fairing cap and a temporary strip between the hances.
Also helps to test the false deck to see if it fits nicely and also the strip as the bulwark will run.

So no special method, just looking at the model from all angles,
and proceed carefully without haste.

 

Edited September 21, 2022 by westwood

[garyshipwright]

Thank you Dusan. Have most of those item's accept the proxxon sander. Think I just may have to get one of those.  Thanks again . Gary

[westwood]

Gary, the vibrating sander was not bad, and the belt sander also helped. But it's not a necessity to use them.
However, I forgot about the direct grinder which I use most often.
That was my first choice.

[garyshipwright]

Thanks Dusan.  I have three of the direct grinder around the shop. Never thought of them as grinder' but makes sense. Have one in a stand, one in a vandalay router table and one that I use free hand much like you did. Pain in the butt  if you only have one and moving it around. I had a few dremel motor tools over the year's, but after buying the  first proxxon motor tool I retired all of the dremel.  The proxxon are really quiet compared to the dremel which screams and just got tired of the sound it make's. The only item that I still use in the dremel department is the bit's and the  angle attachment which is so much easier getting in to tight places  and using ear plugs to block all of the screaming. Wish proxxon  made a 90 degree one, that you could mount the drill chuck to, now that would be nice. One would never have to turn on another screamer. Again thanks Dusan. Gary

[westwood]

a small preview of the construction of the coamings and the ship's stove...

and I can finally start laying the deck

 

[Chuck]

Really nice work!!! 😊

[FrankWouts]

I get hungry everytime I see such a lovely finished stove... so, very well done!!
Frank.

[glbarlow]

Well done!

 

Every time I see a well constructed stove like yours I want to pause my build and build out mine. 

[westwood]

Hi guys,
I was hoping I'd have the deck done about this time,
but unfortunately I'm having a busy time and I don't have the energy to build.
But anyway I have finished the hardest part, the center belt.
I hope it will go better from here.
Progress in pictures:

 

[Chuck]

Really excellent work.   Yes that center belt is a challenge for sure.  You did a masterful job with it.

[westwood]

Thank you Chuck,
I hope it looks good even if I sand it down.
But I'm sure there will be mistakes.
Still, I'm looking forward when the deck will be finished with the WOP.

[westwood]

I report that the deck planking is complete, sanded and ready for WOP

 

[Chuck]

She looks really good.  Wonderful work. You are doing some meticulous pristine craftsmanship on this.

[glbarlow]

Looks really nice.  Well done!  Your bulwarks painting is flawless!

[Rustyj]

Beautiful workmanship Dusan!

[Beckmann]

Impressive work, well done!!

[westwood]

Hi guys,

I added black strake and then

I've started the third chapter and I think I've found my biggest problem.
Angle of the qgalleries doesn't fit me about as well as it should.

I don't know if it's the view angle or the angle of my planking,
or I've misplaced the stern frames...
I'm frustrated about it but If I want  laser cut windows to fit I guess I'll have to live with it.

[westwood]

Thanks for the likes guys,
I finally decided to move the quarter gallery stool to run parallel to the planking.
I'm much happier with the result now.
Using the waste pieces I tried the top part as well.
I'm hoping it will be ok.
And finally I tried making a scraper for the fancy moldings...

[Chuck]

Nicely done.  That frieze looks awfully washed out though.  That was a test print hopefully.

 

Chuck

[westwood]

Thank you Chuck,
Yes, the frieze is just a test, the printer was without paint.
So I have already done the final ones
but there's still a lot of work to do before they're applied.

[westwood]

I continue to work on the Qgallery.
Before gluing the shell, I glued the upper part
to better check that all three frames are parallel.
Now I'm trying to make fancy moldings.
In a previous post I showed the first test and I was satisfied
with how it went.
But now I made a different profile of the scraper and I can't make fancy  mouldings from cherry at all anymore.
I tried it with three different kinds of cherry wood
and the result was the same.
But I tried pear and the result is much better.
So I'll probably go this way for fancy mouldings.
You can easily identify it in the photos.

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Those mouldings look really good and your q galleries look spot on to my eye.

[FrankWouts]

Amazing work Dusan….how do you make such fantastic looking fancy mouldings? Just by scraping?

Frank

Edited December 30, 2022 by FrankWouts

[glbarlow]

That’s really nice moulding, well done!

[westwood]

So It's been a year since I started posting my build log.

Thanks for the kind comments and likes through the whole year guys.

I hope my motivation to build won't leave me 🙂

 

Over the holidays I made a little progress...

I made the scraper from a razor knife and the fancy mouldings are scraped with it freehand. No other special tool.
But as I wrote I used pear wood.
Because in cherry the scraper tended to float and the thickness wasn't consistent either.

 

[westwood]

Now I'm experimenting with blue,
I have the friezes printed on a laser printer.
I just can't decide what blue to use as a base for the gallery columns and later for the transom because there is a bit of a difference in the friezes for the hull than for the friezes for the top and bottom counters and transom.
I am testing Vallejo model color.
I like this mix the best.
6 drops of Prussian blue, 5 drops of flat yellow and 4 drops of white.
I can't get a good photo of it so I took a scan where the color presentation is better.
What do you think?
Or Isn't there a good graphic designer who can adjust the colors of the friezes ?

Edited January 6, 2023 by westwood

[glbarlow]

I used Cerulean Blue mixed with White and wound up pretty close. It’s good you’re taking the time to find a good complimentary color to the friezes.