HMS Druid by Krug - FINISHED - 1:48 - Hahn

[kruginmi]

Slowly plugging away at the rudder as time allows.  With the silver soldering finally set right I can move forward.  The metal work still requires the nail holes drilled and then blackened but I am happy with them.

 

After soldering the three pieces together it took about an hour to slowly bend and fashion it to the correct profile.  After I was satisfied (and the length was cut to its required length) I did mark its profile and chisel it in.  As is seen in the pictures, the pieces stay put rather well even before glue and nails.  I want to have the rudder work totally done and rock solid before I start the hull side to keep the variables to a minimum.

 

 

Still have a rear wood piece on the rudder and then eventually the tiller arm.  My goal is to have the rudder basically done by the end of the weekend.

 

mark

[ASAT]

Beautiful! Great chisel work...

[kruginmi]

Thanks Brian and Lou - slow but keeping at it!

 

I started to blacken the metal and thought I would share my approach (this did not come easy at first!)

 

The process includes three containers that each metal piece goes through, acetone, blacken it (thinned) and finally water.  I will not touch the piece until it has finished through the process, only with forceps.

 

 

The acetone is used to thoroughly clean the metal and is left in for 10 - 15 seconds, with some mild shaking of the container to insure no air bubbles or contact with the bottom of the container is masking some oil.  Upon completion the parts are patted dry.  On a side note, I get my acetone in small quantities by going to the nail polish remover aisle of the general store.

 

The blacken- it solution is 1 part patina, 10 parts water.  Any more and the solution produces globs of black stuff that wipe off the metal and is quite messy.  This was my initial mistake years ago.  The green measuring cup is from a Miracle-Gro mix and is perfect - the small end for blacken-it, the large end for water.  The parts generally go in for about 5 minutes or so with some mild shaking again.  Again, patted dry upon completion.

 

The water is to wash off any blacken-it remaining then a final patting dry.  The results on the top two pieces of the rudder metal work are the result of this process.  Pretty straight forward one you have the right chemicals!

 

 

I have opted to hand drill the holes in the metal and other than sore fingers the going is fine.  Tomorrow I hope to make some scale nails, finish the drilling, and get the metal work affixed.  I am thinking about adding rudder chains so that may be a little more work.

 

Cheers, mark

[kruginmi]

Brian - I have found the insetting of the metal strapping provides positioning that is rock solid and exact.  Even without any sort of 'nails' it takes effort to remove them.

 

I keep thinking about years from now (if the ship even survives!) on what will be the first thing to fall off in the dead of night and then try to figure out how to mitigate the issue.  The Rudder is HUGE in my thoughts.

 

Realistically, it will fall off in the first month after installation when I catch it on something.  Now I can be assured that instead of being wrenched off, it will just drag the whole hull with it off the workbench (hah, hah).

 

On the hull side of the rudder I am still deciding:

1.  If I will replicate this process.  My initial thoughts are to do so for the previously mentioned benefits. 

2.  Should I provide 'faux' planking under the straps (since it is un-planked in this region).  I am thinking against this and just use the frames as is.

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

Still working along but good to see some progress.  All I have left on this rudder is all the scale nails to hold the strapping on - hopefully tonight.

 

The top three bands and the tiller arm bands are from wrapped paper.  These areas are not seen on the finished ship so I thought it a great place to try out the technique.  Worked very well and I will add to my options in the future.

 

 

I added a faux end post on the stern of the rudder.  The actual tiller arm was cut down to a more manageable square and inserted into a hole that was initially drilled then squared off.  You can't tell.  The backup up tiller hole had to be more lifelike but after methodical progress turned out great.

 

 

The true test is to try out the resultant work in the space and see if everything lines up.  Success.  I love it when a plan comes together.

 

 

I need to power through those scale nails.  I had no idea how much effort and beauty rudders have.  Chemistry, metallurgy, shaping, joinery...  If you can do a successful rudder you can do an entire ship.

 

Mark

[mij]

Very nice fine work.

 

mij

[Redbeard]

Nice work Mark.

 

Gonna follow your build. Look forward to more progress!

 

John

[ASAT]

Looks great Mark, that's one of those areas when someone looks closely they will be able to see the level of effort applied. Well done!

[kruginmi]

Thanks Mij, John and Lou.

 

I am hoping you won't have to follow too long, because the build has been too long!  First quarter 2014.  Not a drop in the bucket but I believe it is achievable.

 

It is good to be over a big hump, but the next one is right ahead.

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

With the time available I am slowly progressing forward.  An inventory of my brass supply showed I had insufficient stock for all the work I needed to do (especially when I think about scrap!).  I had previously bought it pre-cut but opted to take the dive this time and buy it as a sheet and cut it as needed:

 

 

Wasn't that bad to score and snap off the strips I need.  I will save a little $$ with this and feel my skills have advanced a little. 

 

Previously when I worked with the cylinder brass I always inserted the matching rod to hold the tube in place against the strapping.  Well, the next two times with silver solder the rod was welded in place as well as the cylinder.  As I pondered the imponderables the obvious came to me:  do not cut the cylinder to shape until after it is affixed to the strapping:

 

 

Sample fittings showed that the hull side hinge needed to be offset from the hull more than what the base strapping allowed, so another piece of brass was added.  The strapping was bent to hold the new piece firm during heating and soldering, then bent afterwards back to shape.  Worked like a charm.

 

 

With the new pieces attached to their rudder join part, this was put against the hull and the required attachment point was identified.  I did mark where the strapping layed against the hull and once again chiseled out that area for added strength and accurate positioning.  I decided to add the wood under the straps where the planking was absent. 

 

The final shot is the bottom two rudder hinges roughed in.  I need to do the same to the top hinges and then make the holes for the faux bolts.  I can say the rudder is suspended on its own.  It can move freely and is centered, so I am  happy with the progress.

 

 

Keeping moving forward,

Mark

Edited October 20, 2013 by kruginmi

[Jim Lad]

That rudder detail is looking really good, Mark!

 

John

[harvey1847]

Hello Mark!

 

Your post are like reading a book. I am saving lots of them. Looks like little practicums to me. Thanks for that.

 

Keep going!

 

 

Daniel.

[kruginmi]

Thanks John and Daniel, I always appreciate the feedback.

 

If this helps, Daniel, that is great.  I just know the unknown has always held me back from progress and as I finally delve in (with the help of enthusiasts locally or sites such as this one) the tasks are not as hard as I anticipated.  The rudder was one of these things - wood, chemicals and metal all in one package.

 

Here is hoping the next post will show the rudder complete and hanging!

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

Things you never learn growing up......

 

I never knew you can buy sewing pins with different sized pin heads!  I have been almost stopped on the Druid trying to figure out how to produce all those bolt heads required.  I tried a number of things without much success.  Finally I just picked up my (almost worn out, threadbare) Hahn book and re-read the Druid chapter.

 

Low and behold, he mentions using pins (as well as touching up the blackened brass with paint).  I quickly took the pins I had and knew the head was oversized and not right.  The next day I stopped by the local sewing shop and was amazed by the wall of pins.  They were sorted by type, metal content and finally - HEAD SIZE!  Am I the only one to not know this?

 

I had hoped for brass but after a certain size the only available was nickel plated steel.  I hoped it would blacken.  I had brought some sample brass strapping and figure out the size 8 head was the correct size.  So for $3.50 I had 350 pins.

 

 

When I got home I plunked one in the blackening solution and it quickly turned black - success!  In just an hour or so I had the rudder all bolted in.  The next picture is fuzzy but it shows progress where before there was none:

 

 

All the touching and pushing to get the bolts into their pre-drilled holes (with super-glue) defintely required some touch up (as previously talked about).  I used some flat black paint and it looked as good as new.

 

Now that I am over that mental hurdle, this weekend the job is to get the rudder totally mounted to the hull.

 

mark

[kruginmi]

Finally on the other side of that rudder.  This whole assembly was a whole lot more than I ever thought it was going to be.  I will never look at a rudder the same way again!

 

I am pretty proud of the result - kids actually looked up from their IPODS when I went to show them so I will take that as a compliment.  At least the three year old was audibly impressed.  I can actually think of buttoning up that berth deck now (once I get the tiller arm rigged in, well, once I make the blocks so I can rig the tiller arm in....).

 

Oh well, Here is to the Victories of Today!

 

 

Mark

[mtaylor]

Nice work on that rudder.... looks great.

[the learner]

A nice cean build! Great job

[kruginmi]

Thanks everyone, I am liking the new ship profile!

 

By the way, I am taking recommendations for the figurehead.  The actual one was not in the plans done by the British.  Harold Hahn adopted a women holding a torch since the original name of the ship was 'Brilliant.'  This leaves things wide open.

 

I want to come up with an original concept / design and do not feel compelled to do a copy of his beautiful creation (plus I do not want to have to compare my creation directly with his!).  I am taking all suggestions into the mix (and cannot be held responsible for my attempt at the chosen theme - hah, hah).

 

This is the only unknown portion of the build left.  - Mark

[ASAT]

Mark, maybe you could use one of the Celtic Druid gods or goddess's - not sure if any verified images exist but I think some of them were "antlered" gods of war... or maybe a water / sea  goddess?  BTW - I am envious of your metal work.... gonna have to tackle that someday....  your rudder is excellent!!

 

Lou

[kruginmi]

Lou, you have pushed my thoughts in a direction that I have been pushing myself (and it sure feels like the right decision so it must be the right one).

 

As soon as you cut the tie with being limited to what is presented, the vistas open up.  I will stay with the theme of the British given name and produce a male, hooded Druid (with staff) - a la Aragorn from Lord of the Rings (hah hah).  I have a great vision in my mind that I need to capture on some paper and then think about attempting on some wood.

 

I won't get too much more specific (at least for now) so when the eventual blob that looks like an octopus emerges I won't be culpable.

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

After a bunch of fits and starts I finally tried my hand at some rigging blocks for the tiller.  Of course these will not be seen, being buried in the back of the berth deck.  I will say the effort for these things is not inconsequential.

 

 

I think I still have another hour or so of refining individual blocks to bring out their best. With only eight to make I didn't build up any sort of jig.  With any more, this would have been a requirement.

 

On the question of stropping I am leaning towards using wire and extending that wire to allow the block to be fixed to the hull.  With the tension from the tiller rope they should be very taught and basically parallel to the deck.  I am worried using rope a sag will result.  Not trying to think too much!

 

mark

[kruginmi]

I have had limited time in the shipyard but have been working on those blocks for quite awhile and still not satisfied with the result.  They look a whole lot better then above by going on a weight loss plan (width and length).  I almost just gave in and went to stropping them when I suddenly realized - this was My Druid.  Then it came to me - why make the blocks like kit blocks??

 

I went and fashioned ones by the numbers in less than an hour (a lot less time than the previous attempt!).  Below is a picture of the blocks in mid-construction.  I did glue the inner sheave to the block itself.  You can see the jig I made up to cut the sheave off of a hardwood dowel.  The outer layer is 1/16 inch basswood, the inner one 1/32 inch.

 

 

Once glued up, I cut each middle layer at the mid-way point.  With just a little shaping I compared this with the previous attempt:

 

 

This is SO much faster than trying to hack out of a solid block (for me) and the result looks so much better.  I will still do some shaping to reduce the overall width but that is very straight forward.  Each block looks the same and somewhat accurate also.  To add the external groove for the stropping to ride in I used a special cutter attachment on my dremel:

 

 

On any 1:48 scale model (or larger) I will always use this method for blocks.  NOW I can finally think about stropping.

 

Mark

 

 

[ASAT]

Wow Mark, those blocks (v2) look real! Where do you get your ideas from? I need to start a file on all the great techniques here on MSW. I think your figurehead idea is spot on as well.

 

Lou

[kruginmi]

Whew!  When I decided to 'knock' out the rudder I had no idea the task I had set myself on.  Luckily, I say that looking back!  That's right, the rudder is finally in the rear view mirror.  This morning I escaped from the family and fashioned the blocks and rigging necessary to get every thing ship shape.  A very big day in the life of Druid.

 

I will post a couple pics of the obligatory rigging components.  Very tight spaces, small pieces and trying to get everything to match up with the plan.  First in the rough with all the stropping added and the synching up required.

 

 

Now for some clean-up and final looks (before it disappears into the depths of the hull:

 

Finally, I put it all together (looking at the plan MANY times to insure each side was a mirror of the other and corresponded to the plans): 

 

Unfortunately, everything starts to disappear as the next level carings and ledges are added:

 

As you can see I did need to cut out a little of the mast centering piece that was in the way, but this is to be all under floor planks.  Still need to run everything up to the ships wheel which will provide the needed tension to keep everything a little straighter.

 

I now get to think about this (small) victory for at least the rest of the day, before I move on to the next job.

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

I will skip over the ice storm, providing refuge to a family of 8, car issues, the holidays and such and actually do some modeling on the last day of 2013:  The object is the stove stack.

 

Into my stove I had cut a slot for an 1/4" brass tube which I procured locally.  Luckily I decided to just put everything in place with this oversized tube 'just to make sure.'  Well, it was very obvious the angle was significantly off:

 

 

Pondering this it all made sense.  The stove was sitting on a deck that had a slight pitch up towards the stem.  Looking at the plans the base of the stove was indeed angled to allow the stove / pots to sit level with the water line.  how many times have I looked at these and never seen that?  So I added the appropriate shim and brought the angle to rights:

 

 

With that taken care of I was able to use the deck beams to mark off the different levels.  These checked out with the plans (always a good thing) and I identified the height and angle required which I cut out with a very fine toothed straight saw:

 

 

After some silver soldering (got so excited I didn't take any pictures) the pipe was complete.  A good result for not so much work.  It still needs to be blackened but this will wait.  I really like the solid feel while still able to remove it out of the way for now.

 

 

This pipe now sits as Mr. Hahn constructed it.  I am still scratching my head if I will go ahead and construct the brass cover assembly.  Next job is the berth deck waterway so I can start planking that deck in.

 

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year,

mark

[kruginmi]

After a bit of a hiatus I finally allocated some time and much to my chagrin the first thing I did was to pick up the hull exerting too much pressure on the rudder and.....snap, the tiller arm broke where it connected to the rudder.  I didn't take any pictures so there will be no records of the mishap (hah, hah).

 

Bad news, good news.  Bad news was that it broke.  Good news is that the area was still entirely accessible.  So I took two steps backward and removed the rudder structure.  I added a steel pin where the tiller arm met the rudder (brad nail with head clipped off) and after everything checked out reinstalled everything.  So, so many hours later I am right back to where I started from.

 

Now to be so very careful in the future anywhere near the rudder!

 

Okay, now to actually make progress.  I am making the plan for the gun deck and my original plan was to replicate what I did on the berth deck and use straight planks (as shown with the line on the bottom part of the picture):

 

 

I cannot claim that I had intent with how I laid out the faux carlings but it certainly looks like the better idea is to plank the outer areas with curved planks that match the flow of the hull (tried to demonstrate with line on the upper part of the picture).  Certainly make the time required to implement a lot longer but it will show much better.  The central part of the deck will still have the straight planks.

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

As I move to the gun deck (which is actually visible as the top main deck) everything added really has a big impact.  As I work to get the hatch coamings affixed I got one last look at a component that I was particularly proud of.  Once it was affixed most of the beauty was hidden but at least I have photographic evidence!

 

 

The following is the installed view  with and without the associated quarterdeck roof.

 

 

To permanently affix the deck beams I needed to add the waterways.  Given the flow of the hull, the waterway from the stern to close to the bow was affixed in one straight piece, slightly bent and glued into place.  For the profile, the same scraper was used as the berth deck.  For the bow, I used my favorite technique of using post-it notes to get the rough shape, followed by a piece of paper to refine, finally using the correct wood. 

 

 

When the port piece was cut out I was happy to find that by flipping it over it fit just fine in the starboard side.  I love it when these things like that happen.

 

 

Mark

 

Now on actually laying planks (as soon as the stairway coaming is put in).

Edited February 2, 2014 by kruginmi

[Bugra]

Just amazing! Boxwood looks great. Keep it up please Mark.

 

Bugra.

[kruginmi]

Thanks Bugra,  Believe it or not 95% of this is basswood, not boxwood.  Mark

[capnharv2]

Mark,

 

Thanks for this log. You, like Chuck, are showing what a wonderful job can be done with basswood.

 

Harvey