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Scottish Fifie Motor Fishing Vessel by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Amati - 1:32


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Started new build of the Amati Fifie. Several nice build logs on the forum w;hich I have reviewed and from which I will shamelessly filch ideas. I continue my trend of always have the next project chosen by the old Monty Python line: " And now for something completely different."

I'm out of display room here in Rochester, Minnesota, to this one will travel to our place in Marblehead, Massachusetts which seems a more appropriate home anyway.

 

1 Box.jpg

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So, onward.

This is the first ship I've built where the whole structure is made from MDF. The keel piece(s) go together in a very firmly fixed manner with overlapping pieces and pegs. No problem. Dry fit the bulkheads which fit perfectly, glued them in, and added the additional structural pieces.

 

 

2 keel piece done.jpg

3 bulkheads.jpg

4 More structural pieces.jpg

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I like the idea of detailing the main hold so did that before fastening the false deck down. I didn't think it right to paint this area, so I just weathered the bare planks.

I doubt they were too concerned with looks down here, so didn't try to perfectly align the drain holes in the floor, which I raised a bit above the structural piece below it which I painted black to the holes look like holes into the bilge.

I think I will have the (drying) net stored in here, so not that much will be visible anyway. Will have to find an appropriate material for the net.

Then glued the false deck down with a variety of long reach clamps and small screw clamps.

 

 

6 Hold detailed.jpg

7 Gluing False Deck.jpg

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Before beginning the planking, I tapered the edges of the filler blocks.

Pieces of laser cut wood are glued to the sides of the beak head/keel/stem MDF, so I traced their "footprint" to guide where to end the first layer planking pieces. Once those ends are feathered the attached pieces will give a rabbet to land the second layer walnut strips.

 

 

8 ready for planks 1.jpg

9 Ready for Planks 2.jpg

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I didn't want to glue the first two planks to the bulkhead extensions since the extensions will be twisted/pulled off. Reading over some of the build logs I decided on this approach:

I clamped the first plank (made to 2 pieces) in place, and used that as a guide to place the second plank(s), gluing them only to the sides of the false deck and not to the bulkhead extensions except at the ends where they were glued firmly to the beak head and stem. I used multiple clamps the align this second plank with the first clamped-on-only plank. Used wood glue since the extent of the glued area would have had CA drying on one end while finishing applying at the other end. Also, last minute adjustments possible with that glue. I soaked and heat-bent the planks to about the right curvature, and then clamped in place until dry. This results in a near perfect fit without the need to use nails (which wouldn't really have been possible anyway for these 2 courses.

After that cured, I then glued the first planking in place edge-to-edge with the second plank (again with firm gluing at the ends). Multiple clamps to align the first plank with the now firmly held second plank.

End result as of today is 2 firmly glued courses without fastening to the bulkhead extensions.

From here on it should be more straightforward.

 

10 Can't Have Too Many Clamps.jpg

11 First 2 Planks.jpg

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I plan on making this my next build after I finish my pinky schooner Glad Tidings ; so I will be following your build with great interest. Will probably be 2 to 3 weeks behind you. Looks like you’re off to a great start.

Current build: Armed Virginia Sloop

Previous Builds: , Amati Fifie, Glad Tidings,Bluenose II, Chesapeake Bay Skipjack, Fair American, Danmark, Constitution Cross Section, Bluenose 

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Todd:

The MDF used in this kit for structural pieces is great. No warping, easy to file and shape. As long as none of it is exposed in the final state of the hull since it can't be stained I'm very pleased with it as a construction material.

Mike:

I got those clamps from MicroMark. I find them helpful in places my regular clamps can't reach, mainly because of the reach possible between the "jaws" and the length of the jaws themselves.

 

Mini Plastic Clamp Set (Set Of 4)

Item #: 80383

 

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Continuing with first planking. Probably only time for one or two planks per side each day. Measurements amidships suggest 22 more planks with taper to 5.5 mm from 7 at the ends. 
I will update when there is something worth seeing. 

Edited by Brucealanevans
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At the risk of "carrying coals to Newcastle" I thought I'd share my process for first planking on this vessel.

I'm not a fan of "just getting it covered" for this, and am using the first planking as an exercise.

I measured (as mentioned above) the taper required of each plank if I want to be able to have them all extend end-to-end without patch planks in the middle. Since the boat is longer than the planks each course consists of 2 separate pieces. One end is marked with the required taper (7mm to 5.5mm) and the plank held in place at about the 4th and 5th bulkhead from the respective end. the end is bend over the bow or stern with an overlap of the plank above corresponding to the mark. the point at which the plank begins to want to overlap the one above is marked and a line drawn from that mark to the trim mark at the end, denoting the triangle of wood to be removed. I discovered as the instructions said that making this cut worked much better once the plank had been soaked. After soaking I make the cut, sand briefly, and then bend the strip on my hot iron bender (pictured) so that it lies neatly nearly in place without pressure (second picture). I fasten it in place and let it dry (to allow for shrinkage), before taking it off, putting wood glue on the bulkheads and the ends of the strip, and re-pinning it into place.

Forgive me if this is obvious to everyone.

 

Bender.jpg

soaked and bent plank.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Moving slowly along with the first planking. It is hard to get these 7mm x 1.5 mm planks to follow the bulkhead curves as I approach 2/3 coverage. There will be vigorous sanding and wood filler use for sure.

Also, I've been anxiously counting the number of planks remaining and it will be close. I've only completely trashed one plank but figuring out the most conservative way to cut the planks given the hull is longer than the planks is an issue, as I do end up with a number of pieces too short to do anything useful with.

Here's where I am now - about 10 planks left to go. I think at this point I'll do the garboard planks next to facilitate measurement for the rest.

 

Having never done a "first planking" I was delighted to find rattling in my toolbox an Amati naildriver which has been incredibly useful, and so much easier and accurate than my initial use of a needle nose pliers.

 

First Planking 1.jpg

First Planking 2.jpg

Edited by Brucealanevans
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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Finished first planking. Got started on second planking when I was overcome by an irresistible planking fatigue. 
put things aside until planking mojo returns. Almost there. 

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I know that feeling Bruce! Typically strikes me during planking and ratlines. I’m sure you will get over the hump. Looking forward to seeing your Fifie progress when you pick it back up. 

Tim Moore

Perfect is the enemy of good


In progress

IJN Pre-Dreadnought Battleship Mikasa, 1:200, Hobby Boss

On Deck
DH.9a Ninak, 1/32, Wingnut Wings
The Blue Sky Company, 1:48, Sierra West Models

Completed  

Fiat 806 Grand Prix 1:12, Italeri; Fifie 1:32, Amati Victory Model; HMS Bounty 1:48, Artesania Latina; Endeavour 1:60; Corel; Miss Severn 1:8, Legend Model Boats; Calypso, Billing Boats; Carmen Fishing Trawler, A.L. ; Dallas Revenue Cutter, A.L., Bluenose, A.L.

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  • 1 month later...

Finished the hull. I found the second planking difficult. The inability to soak, bend, clamp  and dry; the stiffness of the walnut planks, and the necessity of using CA making fine adjustments for a snug fit difficult all caused problems. All in all, not my finest work. Also had a fail with masking when painting the white strip. Not a museum model, and I did not achieve the clean look I was hoping for. I believe that this will be my last planked ship model, and absolutely my last double planked model.

I did not opt for the bright red for the hull, but chose the red oxide look which I prefer.

I'm really out of display space for any additional ships (both our homes now saturated with ships). I have a Granado in my stash as well as a La Real galley from Dusek in pear wood, but I think I may well sell those on. I have a couple of WW1 detailed airplane kits, and a couple of HO scale dioramas from Sierra West that I believe I will turn my attention to when the Fifie is done and transported to our Marblehead Massachusetts home.

Oh well, it's done, and now I can get on with the fun stuff.

 

hull done.jpg

Edited by Brucealanevans
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  • 2 weeks later...

Finished the base planking of the deck.

I decided to use the dark 1x1 mm strips for caulking per the instructions. Interestingly, no where near enough of them were included in the kit to do so - I had to order some 1/32x1/32 strips from somewhere that could get them to me fast and stain them.

I also decided I will place the timberheads on the deck per the instructions rather than planking around them.

The decking in the middle "fish area" has been weathered before the grate goes on over it.

I think this ship will be portrayed as a bit battered rather than all spick and span from the yard. So I'm doing a bit of research on weathering, chipping, etc., none of which I have previously done.

Fife Deck.jpg

Edited by Brucealanevans
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Planked the inner bulwarks and installed the timber heads. I think this may be the last mind-numbing repetitive job for this build.

 

Except:

 

My wife joked about putting tiny herrings on the boat.

A challenge!

Made a prototype. Too labor intensive to make a large number. I think I'll have one tray of herrings on the deck with perhaps 10 or so in it.

Started with an illustration, added a flipped image just touching the top of the fish so that when folded it's 2 sided. Resized image to scale of the boat and printed a bunch of the double images on a sheet. Cut out a rectangle including the image, carefully scored a fold line between the flipped images where they touch, and folded the paper.

Glued a small piece of wood inside to give it depth and painted the inside with Elmer's glue and pressed the folded paper closed, with pressure all around the picture. After it dried I trimmed with fine blade and magnification. Touched up the dark edge (top) with a sharpie. One very small herring!

Timebers installed.jpg

scale herring.jpg

Edited by Brucealanevans
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I have 2 guys ready to go.  They might be slightly too big but there must have been some 6’ 2” fisherfolk. 
I have some netting to be drying in the well I made which will be partially uncovered. Gray Tulle (sp?) with mesh perfectly in scale for drift nets. 
One scuttle will be open. 

Edited by Brucealanevans
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I am following your build with great interest.  I am building the Medway longboat by Syren, my first ever build.  When complete I would like to attempt one of Chris Wattons kits, Lady Eleanor and after that the Fife.  I just love the looks of this vessel.  Like you, if I build the Fife I would like it to look like a well worked boat.

 

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Nice job. 👍

I'm (very slowly) building the same boat but going to go radio control which adds a whole new dimension to the build (read as time, mostly and some added dollars). Everything needs to be waterproofed and winter months inside isn't good with the odor in a small home. Then the motor and drive line need to be added which entails using a larger tube and shaft. All was set up then the Injora 35T motor I was using decided to die while testing a couple days ago. The new motor is here and will be installed today

 

What I've done with the too short planking, especially the first layer is to splice and glue to approximate length. This will hopefully cut down waste since there isn't much extra materials in this kit. The second layer wont matter since it has the first layer as a backer.

 

I'll be following your build since I'm not doing a log

 

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Finished the grating area and the scuttle covers.

Working on the rudder tomorrow.

I have to think about weathering the deck soon.

 

grating.jpg

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Put on the cap rail, finished and installed the rudder, and dry fitted the pond boards, so the deck is now complete.

I think, looking ahead in the instructions, that I will skip forward to complete at lease the base of the superstructure, so that I can properly trim fit the ends of the pond boards since there will be a slight overlap of that structure beyond the "hole" it fits into.

Then I'll start on all the little project structures.

 

Desk Completed.jpg

Edited by Brucealanevans
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James, your comment is appreciated so much. Your review of this kit led me to get it. 

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Put together and painted the base for the Superstructure. I thought a bit of color would break up the walnut monotony. Likely will use some blue on the pilot house as well. I strongly suggest making certain the first pieces will fit into the deck opening before gluing them together. I had to adjust the length of them (shorten) and adjust the notches accordingly as well as sand the edges of the opening a bit to get a good fit.

I added (for practice) some gentle weathering and chipping to the painted surface - nothing over the top but I don't want the boat to look like it just arrived from the builders. I will be doing something similar to the fish pond area and the deck. The superstructure base is just dry fitted at the moment so that I can work on its bits off model.

I'll start working on the deck structures next.

Superstructer Base.jpg

Edited by Brucealanevans
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