Medway Longboat 1742 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model Company - ½” scale

[Chuck]

Great catch and fix....yu are well underway now.

 

 

[Beef Wellington]

This method of construction appears deceptively simple, but definitely still needs planning and experience to execute well as you have shown.  Glad I'm not the only one that requires 'redos' 🙂 .  Looking great BE.   

Edited February 4, 2023 by Beef Wellington

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Jason,

Without redo's you can't advance in model ship building; it's the 'that'll do'  approach that blocks  improvements in build quality.

I don't always succeed  but as I grow older I'm far less forgiving of myself in terms of 'what'll' do.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Nine

 After a short delay back to the lining off.

0207a

This time the tick strips match both sides.

0227

I had a dabble with the tape fully in the knowledge that the pre-spiled planks obviate any need for the process.

As an exercise to gain an appreciation of how Chuck arrives at his end result it is useful, particularly how the aft three and foremost three frames were not initially tick marked, but the run being eyeballed to the stem and Transom.

 

One has to bear in mind that Chuck won’t always be there to pre -spile planks for you.

0228

This I found easier said than done with the tape reluctant to stick at the bow; doesn’t bode well for leisurely sighting and tweaking of the line, but I get the idea.

 

So, I will now move onto the planking…

 

Even though a fully planked model gives more modelling for your money I have made the decision to complete her with open frames, and only plank the top three strakes.

 

This will match the style of the Queen Anne Barge that I completed in 2021.

 

In some ways this is more of a tricky build than a fully planked model, where one starts with the Garboard planks and works up the hull sequentially.  I will be starting at the seventh strake and need to ensure that I use the correct planks at the correct level.

Rustyj Dsc0048 numbered.

Jpr62 HULL3 03 numbered

To this end I have borrowed a couple of photos from the builds by Rusty and Jean-Paul on which to mark the plank numbers.

 

I have started by playing around using card replicates of the planks to give me a feel for the job.

0229

0230

I’m pleased to note that the sheer planks pretty much hit the tick marks for the upper strake.

0231

0232

0233

0234

I have decided to start from the sheer rail with the hull the right way up. Here, the frame tops, stem rabbet, and transom wings provide a guide. (Making allowance for the capping rail that will fit beneath the wings)

 

 

B.E.

11/02/2023

 

 

 

[Chuck]

That is a great plan.  I have often wanted to build another with the frames exposed so it will be so nice to see one finally built that way.   

 

A tribute to your care in planning that everything lines up as it should.   Well done!!

[Blue Ensign]

Post 10

Planking begins.

 

The sheer line plank at the bow begins with Plank 17.

0235

As you can see this is the port side and this short section has a downward curve, which at first sight may seem counter-intuitive, but it is correct to keep the line right as it bends around the bow frames.

0237

I use water and heat to perform the bend around a large circumference tube. Not having used Alaskan Cedar in a build I was a little nervous of using heat only in case the strip snapped at the bend point.

0238

0239

Several bending sessions were required to get a stress-free lie around the bow, plus a small twist at the bow end so the plank sat square within the rabbet.

0243

I have re-inserted the balsa spacer blocks to help support the frames during fitting of the planks.

0247

I opted to use ca to glue the first plank, apart from any other consideration it is always tricky to clamp planks around the curve of the bow, and it is useful to hold the plank at the exact level for an instant grab.

0248

Dry fitting the aft plank, this piece needed no adjustment for fit.

The aft section of the sheer plank is a lengthy piece for which I will again use ca, progressing two frames at a time.

0249

At the transom a piece of 1/16^th strip was used to allow for the capping rail which sits beneath the transom wings.

 

With first sheer strakes glued into place the hull is again inverted for the next two strakes to be fitted.

0251

0255

0258A

I do seem to have a slight variance in a couple of the frame tops above the sheer planks port and Starboard, towards the stern, but otherwise the application went quite smoothly.

 

The next two planks are likely to prove more of a challenge to get a tight fit against the sheer plank, but at least I now have a plank to work against.

 

 

B.E.

 

14/02/2023

 

[Ryland Craze]

Your work is looking good B.E.  I am enjoying your build log.  The yellow cedar is a great wood to work with.

[BobG]

I just found your build log, BE, and I'm looking forward to following your progress. This was my second model and it was a big step up for me but it turned out to be my best effort. I'm sure you'll find ways to make yours unique and even more interesting as you often do. Good luck along the way and enjoy!

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Ryland and Bob, it's good to have your respective works to refer to. 👍

 

Post 11

The three required strakes of this version are now fitted, but not fully fettled.

 I found that the planks altho’ pre-spiled did require a fair amount of tweaking to get them to fit.

0270

0267

0263

The second strake below the sheer (plank15) proved trickier to fit.

Starting with the port side, once around the bow curve it did not readily sit down against the sheer plank. Repeated bending and some sanding was required to get the plank into position.

0266

The aft section (plank16) was a little easier but did require some sanding and bevelling along the section between frame 8 and the transom. Mid way along a slight curve was induced, and from frame 8 a slight twist is also required where the plank starts to curve beneath the transom.

0265

The forward plank on the Starboard side also required similar treatment. The aft section (16) proved problematic, I just couldn’t get rid of an annoying gap, so the plank was scrapped and a replacement cut which went on with minimal sanding and bevelling.

 

The third strake bow plank (13) is a long plank near 70% of the overall hull length.

0262

An almost instant disaster the end of the plank split along the grain where it fits into the bow rabbet, just where you don’t want it – under pressure at the bow.

 

Fortunately, there is sufficient sheet to cut replacements which is easily done using just a scalpel. Based on the trial fitting of the now replaced plank, the new plank can be tweaked before cutting to allow a little extra material for better sanding to fit.

0264

Both sides of plank (13) were re-cuts and it took me some time to get anywhere close to a tight fit.

 

0268

The same applied to the aft section where both planks (14) were re-fits.

0269

The one comforting thought is that the first and second strakes are covered by an extra layer of duplicate planks which form the wale, so there are in effect two chances to get it right.

 

This will be the next step.

 

B.E.

22/02/2023

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 12

 Picking up on an idea used by Jean-Paul, but one that seems natural to me, I decided to form the two upper wale planks over the existing planks.

0277

The planks were first soaked to give flexibility, and once held in place were given the hairdryer treatment. This way much of the stress was taken out of them.

0278

I used Tamiya tape to protect the existing planks.

0271a

0275

I again fitted the sheer planks first using ca for the bow bend, and pva thereafter. The hull was turned the right way up for the process.

 It is worth checking the frames before gluing; I found several instances where the ca had not fully grabbed the first layer of planks at the top edge.

0274

A side benefit of those little blocks fitted to protect the frames during fairing is that they provide an anchor in a tricky place to hold a clamp during re-gluing.

 

Oh dear,  whilst securing the bow wale on the s/b side, the bow plank 13 (third down) snapped along the grain between the bow rabbet and first frame when I inadvertently pressed too hard.

Unlucky 13 for me, I have already had one breakage, and both sides were re-cuts.

0279

The one small compensation was that the broken plank came away easily. I left the aft one in place.

 

Am I downhearted, you bet, I am thoroughly annoyed at my ineptitude.

0283

Re-fitting the new plank proved quite a trial taking a long session of sanding and dry fitting before it sat easily without stress.

I had already scrapped an earlier one after a fair time having cut it a tad too short to meet the aft plank join.

 

The lower wale planks were attended to next.

 

Starting with the starboard side;

 

Again, I had to do a lot of tweaking to get the bow section (15) to fit. The aft section (16) was also problematic.

 

When tweaked to fit it lay above the joint line of the corresponding plank beneath it, revealing the cheat that belies  the wale as one thicker plank.

0288

I re-cut another plank using a Tamiya tape pattern taken from the hull, which covers up the offending joint.

 

The port side went a little easier.

0285

0286

Above – dry fitting the lower wale planks.

 

Overall, I found the planking trickier than I seem to remember from when doing the Royal Barge.

Perhaps it’s just as well I went for the open frame version.

 

Movin’ onto a final sanding and finishing of the planking.

 

 

B.E.

28/02/2023

 

 

 

 

 

[Wintergreen]

BE, who said planking was easy?

Slow and steady will make it and it looks good now 🙂

 

Keep it up!

[Gus M]

On board on this one, great work

[BobG]

4 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Overall, I found the planking trickier than I seem to remember from when doing the Royal Barge.

Good job on overcoming the planking challenges, BE. It looks fantastic!

 

I remember grappling with the planking and breaking a couple of planks which I had to remake as well. Since I was a novice at planking at the time, and still am, I thought that having the planks pre-spiled would make it a piece of cake but that didn't turn out to be the case for me. I eventually got the job done and was essentially happy with it but it took me much more time and tweaking than I was expecting.   

 

In addition, I'm not sure I had the frames faired as well as they should have been which wasn't helping the process. I'm never really sure if I've done enough fairing and should stop or not enough and should continue. I follow the standard practice of consistently checking the frames with a batten as I am sanding and I keep viewing the the frames from various angles as I proceed but I'm still never quite sure when it is done properly.

 

I think that good fairing and planking must just take a whole lot of practice and experience to become really confident and good at it.

 

Good luck as you continue. It's a really beautiful model when completed. 

Edited February 28, 2023 by BobG

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you, Haken, Gus, and Bob.

 

@ Haken - certainly not me!

@ Gus -  Thank you for looking in.

@ Bob -  I can relate to the fairing issue Bob, I do exactly what you do, and am still left with that niggling thought at the end.

With this planking exercise it was the plank I traced myself, using Tamiya tape on the hull, that gave me the least trouble.

 

It was a useful exercise tho' but there is a temptation to think that a tiny bit of tweaking will do the job, when it clearly doesn't, and Chuck's advice to use tick marks reveals that in places more needs to be taken off that first imagined.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 13

 

With the hull still inverted and secure on its board I decided this was a good point to add the planking nails.

 

10lb monofilament line  provided in the kit was used. This size line has a given diameter of 0.11” (0.279mm)

 A #77 drill is indicated  for use  which has a ø of 0.4572mm. The actual line is close enough to 0.3mm ø

 

 I was somewhat puzzled by this, why use a drill that is almost twice the size of the line required to be fitted.

 I found that a 0.4mm drill was more than sufficient for the task.

0291

Tape was used to mark the frame lines.

0292

A wood strip was used to position the holes top and bottom of the planks.

0294

I used a flexible light behind the hull to reveal the frames.

0295

It is then just a case of dipping in pva and inserting ad nauseum. Can’t really complain as there are only four strakes to do in total.

0297

I don’t think I would have had enough 10lb line to complete a full hull.

0299

0304

0302

A little more fettlin’ before I can  turn the hull the right way up and start removing the centres.

 

 

B.E.

03/03/2023

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 14

 Removing the base board went without issue, and the hull will now remain upright as work progresses.

0311

The Queen Anne Barge building board is taken into service to support the Longboat for the remainder of the build.

 

An issue developed with the upper wale plank on the starboard side where it had slipped partially out of the stem rabbet.

0310

Poor fitting on my part no doubt.

0309

Acetone was used to free the top two planks at the stem, and with the use of clamps and a prop the offending planks were re-set.

Fortunately, in this area the bow plank/stem rabbet will be covered by bolsters attached to the stem which support the roller fitting at the bow.

0313

The tools I used to release the frames. A chisel blade to ping off the supporting tabs, and micro saw blades to release the frame centres.

Fairly easily done with a micro saw, and apart from the alarming creaking as the centres release from the frame bottoms all went well. Only one frame needed re-gluing.

0330

This is the first real opportunity to see what a fine model, and what great lines she has. I am content with my decision to build her open framed.

0326

0316

0315

0319

0322

A fair way to go yet.

 

 

B.E.

04/03/2023

 

[Gus M]

Awasome, looks great

[Chuck]

Nicely done.   That is just as she is supposed to look at this stage.

[Blue Ensign]

Phew, that's a relief, thank you Chuck.

It's so reassuring to have your expert eye watching over my efforts and those of others on MSW, it is much appreciated.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 15

 

The next stage is fitting the Capping rails, this will secure the frame tops and stiffen the frames further.

I reduced the frame depths a little at the sheer before I added the rails which went on without any issues.

0331

I fixed the bow section first followed by the aft, centring the rail along the sheer.

0333

This is a fairly painless exercise, just need to ensure that the rails sit right down on the sheer and a tight join at the centre is achieved. A slight bevelling  where the rail fits beneath the transom was required.

0335

 I love the run of the sheer on this model.

0338

0340

0342

0341

0336

0343

0345

Fairly satisfied with progress thus far, but a somewhat more testy aspect looms.

 

B.E.

06/03/2023

 

Edited March 6, 2023 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post 16

With the rails in place the stem bolsters have to be shaped and fitted.

Chuck describes this step as challenging and provides six blanks from which two finished bolsters are required.

Hoping that’s enough, but if it isn’t, perhaps I need a different hobby.

0346

To give me a feel for shaping these bolsters I carved a Balsa block before moving onto the cedar.

0349

0350

To achieve the shape, I used a No11 scalpel blade, and finger sanders with a curved profile.

0351

0352

Once the bevels are cut the most difficult part is holding the bolster to impart the concave shape down to around  0.8mm thickness at the bottom edge.

0353

0354

Multiple trial fittings are required during the shaping process.

0362

The final finishing was done with the bolsters in place.

0372

0367

All went well with four blanks left. The recess for the bolster roller was cut using micro chisels.

0370

0373

I can’t help thinking that the boat looks better without those baulks of wood, necessary as they are to perform one of the  main operational functions.

 

Perhaps once the decorative rail and decoration is applied they won’t look so prominent.

 

 

B.E.

08/03/2023

[Blue Ensign]

Post 17

The Journey resumes.

 

My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.

 

Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648

With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.

 

B.E.

13/05/2024

[glbarlow]

Most likely my next build after Winchelsea, it’s just sitting in my cabinet waiting for me. 

[Blue Ensign]

Perhaps I should take another sabbatical and wait to see what little pearls I can pick up from your build Glenn.😉

On balance, perhaps  I should just  get on with it, my kit sat for four years beneath the bench, plus another two the stocks.

 

Post 18

Cap rails and frames

The Cap rail now needs to be thinned down. Chuck indicates an initial 1/32” overhang on the outer side. I use a strip of 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip as a template.

4684

The trickiest part is around the bow in the area of the bolsters, here I used a scalpel blade to carefully pare away the excess overhang down to 0.8mm whilst retaining the uniformity of the rail.

 

For thinning the frames as they move upwards to the rail I initially use a scalpel, the cedar cuts smoothly and uniformly, and for this aspect the blade is quicker and cleaner than sanding alone.

4685

The support base holds the hull steady for use of the scalpel and sanding. Some of the frames are thinned with the hull side down, others with the hull upright. Fine cuts are used to remove the timber.

As the frames are reduced the cap rail width is reduced until the required  width of 5/32" (4mm) is achieved.

4690

The ports side frame fairing and cap rail reduction near completion. I have left the inner bow area slightly oversize until I reach the stage of fitting the knee at the bow.

 

The starboard side shows the extent of the timber to be removed.

4691

So far, so good, I’m enjoying getting back to working on Chuck’s little gem.

 

B.E.

15/05/2024

[Blue Ensign]

Post 19

Cap rails and frames cont’d

 

Over the past week I have continued to work on the frames and Capping rails, slowly easing myself back into the build.

The starboard side is pared down using the same procedure as before.

4692

For sanding I used 320 grit paper.

 

With the Cap rails down to around 5/32” width the inboard sheer strakes can be fitted. 

These comprise two laser cut planks (1/32” x 5/32”) for each side, a bow section and longer aft section. The sections are pre spiled to take account of the bow round and sheer.

 

Having lost familiarity with the kit contents it took me a while to locate these which are on sheet ‘R’ of the planking sheets.

4725

The bow sections were wetted down and pre-formed around the bow before fitting.

4727

4729

4730

The inboard strakes have now been fitted, one or two spots of char to attend to but this section is nearing completion.

 

There is a bow knee to be fitted and the kit supplies laser cut pieces from cedar.

The kit part was not a good fit on my build requiring too much material removal and/or filler to retain the elegant shape.

4734

I remade the part from Boxwood sheet having taken a template, but even so this will still require some fettlin’ to get the hoped-for razor line fit to the capping rail at the bow.

 

 

B.E.

21/05/2024

[Chuck]

Looking lovely.  I forgot what a beautiful shape this longboat has.  Yours is showing that elegant form very well.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Chuck, it was the elegant sheer that attracted me to the model. Overall it is a thing of beauty.

 

Post 20

In continuation.

4753

The re-made bow Breasthook/knee has been glued into place, I think I’ve got a close fit.

4754

I have continued to clean up the woodwork prior to applying a coat of w-o-p.

 

With w-o-p applied to the frames and inner boarding it is time to consider paint.

As with the Queen Anne Barge I will be using Vallejo acrylics.

3434(1)

For that build I used Flat Red for the Barge paintwork.

The uniforms for the Royal Company of Watermen were of a brighter hue.

 

4837

Before I committed to the paint shade I compared the likely Vallejo options.

I think Flat Red (top option) still has the edge so I’ll stick with that.

4848

A first coat of thinned paint is applied, the first of several, and a first opportunity for the paint to reveal where areas need attention.

4842

4846

On with the show.

 

B.E.

27/05/2024

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 21

Painting the rails

There were some very fine imperfections between the capping rail and inboard sheer planking still apparent after two coats of thinned paint.

4849

I applied some fine surface filler atop the rails.

Several more thinned paint coats were applied with sanding in-between initially using 400, then 1000 grit.

 

At this point in Part three of the guide it is suggested that the decorative frieze and rail are fitted but I thought I would attend to the floorboards and platforms first.

 

I will return to add final paint coats once the boarding is installed.

 

Floorboarding

The floorboards comprise the central board with a broad plank adjacent and a narrower plank outside.

2304a

The two broad planks either side of the central plank are easy to identify on 1/16^th cedar sheet.

2303a

The centre plank along with the two narrower outer planks are found on sheet R. These are made up from two 1/32^nd strips glued together. The top layers are slightly narrower to form a rabbet, one each side on the central plank, and one on the outer edges of the outer planks.

2307

The central plank with the two broad planks.

2305a

These should meet the centre plank at all points. There is a gap at the fore end which I don’t think will accept edge bending, so the inner edges look to need shaping to allow the fore end to meet the central plank.

The broad planks will also require some lateral bending to sit down on the frames.

2308a

The two outer planks abut the broad planks with the rabbet on the outer edge.

 

The central plank is fitted first which is necessary to provide a solid edge to work the broad plank fit.

Trial fitting revealed a potential problem.

With an open framed version the fit of the central board is perhaps slightly more critical than the fully planked version.

4855a

The fit of the boards on the frames will be seen from below and as can be seen the central plank does not sit fully down on the third from bow frame due to the more acute angle of the frame.

 

Having discussed with Chuck a small wedge was added to fill the gap.

4853

One of the advantages of open frames is that there is convenient access to clamp this part in place.

 

 

B.E

29/05/2024

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 22

Fitting the boards

Initial fitting of the 1/16^th broad plank reveals it will be a tricky part to fit.

It is clear that a gentle approach will be required in getting the boards to conform to the frames as they are far more vulnerable without the support of outer planking.

 

Chuck had suggested that the broad planks could be cut from 1/32^nd sheet and glued one on top of the other in the same manner as the outer planks.

 

These would better conform around the inner framework, and

having played around with the 1/16^th board I decided that the 1/32^nd option was both easier and safer.

 

Not out of the woods yet; 

 

Shaping by degrees was needed on the inner side of the broad planks to cleanly meet the central one.

Additionally, I had problems with Frame ‘F’ - third from the bow, which needed additional fairing to allow the board to sit down properly. This frame was also troublesome with the central plank.

0040

0042

These Amati planking clamps are ideal for securing the boarding both for heat treatment to conform the board, and for eventually gluing.

This would not be an option with a fully planked hull.

It is the forward section of the boards that require some twist to conform to the forward bow frames but using 1/32^nd board there is no problem.

0049

The base layers in place.

0045

Here the port side second layer strip in position for the application of the heat treatment. Spacers are used to maintain the rabbet line on the central plank.

Before finally gluing into place the nail points were marked on the planking and pre drilled.

I used a 0.4mm drill.

 

Care is required to ensure that the nail lines across the board are even and square to the frames.

With the board in place I drew fine pencil marks in line with the frames, and off the model I marked the nail positions and drilled.

 

The board then needed cleaning with isopropanol to remove the traces of the pencil marks.

0054

Using 10lb fishing line the ‘nails’ are inserted, secured with pva. Dull work, but I can’t complain given that I have been spared the bulk of this task.

0055

0059

0057

0056

Onto the outer boards.

 

 

B.E.

03/06/2024

Edited June 3 by Blue Ensign

[BobG]

8 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Initial fitting of the 1/16^th broad plank reveals it will be a tricky part to fit.

I remember wrestling with the 1/16 broad planks in order to get them to lie nicely on the frames. I just figured that it was due to my inexperience with bending planks. I finally got them to lay nicely on the frames but it took me much longer than I expected. This is the first time I've heard about the option of using two 1/32" planks laid on top of one another.