Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht

[MAGIC's Craig]

She's looking lovely and, even better, quite fair.  An inspiration to us all.

[Rick310]

WOW Keith,  beautiful job!!  Didn’t realize how big the hull actually is, magic!!.

Rick

[Rick310]

That was supposed be‘magnificent’ not ‘ magic!  Just love autocorrect!🥴

Rick

[Keith Black]

 I don't know how I missed your Thursday post, Keith? That hull is drop dead gorgeous, are you absolutely sure it's gotta be painted? I know it the Cangarda's hull is painted but geez. 

[KeithAug]

2 hours ago, Keith Black said:

Keith? That hull is drop dead gorgeous, are you absolutely sure it's gotta be painted? I know it the Cangarda's hull is painted but geez.

Keith - the plan is white stripe at the waterline. Green above waterline. Clear varnish below the waterline. I think that is the best compromise. The green above the waterline can't really be avoided for reasons that will become obvious over the next couple of weeks.

 

Rick / Craig - thank you for your comments.

[Rick310]

The white stripe is a good solution!

Rick

[FriedClams]

Beautiful hull, Keith - very nice.

 

Gary

[KeithAug]

Thank you Gary - and thanks to all my other viewers, your visits to my log are much appreciated.

 

Well that's another week gone by. We have had the builders in this week so I needed to watch what they were up to. We all get spoilt by MSW contributors attention to detail. I don't think any of us would be able to achieve general builders standards! 

As usual Cangarda progress hasn't been stellar.

 

Firstly I drew the plan for that little bit at the end of the keel that I damaged.  

I then made it. I didn't shape it or glue it on though. I am saving that for a bit later when damage is less likely. Once bitten twice shy!

The next step in the build was sorting out the stress compensation plate that runs the full length of the hull.

I am going to create this by overlaying the hull with 1/32" birch ply. (Hence my previous comment about needing to paint the hull above the waterline).

 

Getting the compensation plate correctly shaped and positioned could have been tricky had it not been featured in one of the drawings supplied by Rutherford's Boat Shop. 

I transferred the position of the compensation plate on to the lines drawing (red arrows) . Also note my special pencil.

I needed the pencil to draw straight lines on the hull as the hull curved away from the straight edge. Hence I cut the side off to eliminate the effect of the cone produced by the pencil sharpener.

The frame lines were then transferred to the hull at the positions corresponding to the green dots in the previous photo. The vertical height of the top edge (or is that the bottom) of the compensation pate was then marked on (just noticeable on the next photo).

These points were then drilled with a .025" drill and sewing pins were inserted to define the line against which the plywood compensation plate needed to butt. An over width birch strip was then cut and offered up to the pins. 

Despite what the photo looks like the strip didn't butt up to all pins. The amount needing removal was then marked on the strip a this was planed away slowly while frequently checking the fit. The shaping is fairly obvious in the next photo.

Once the correct shape was achieved it was clamped against the hull in preparation for transferring the lower edge positions on to the strip. The next photo shows the positions being marked. You will see the plate doesn't run the full length of the hull because I only had a 4 foot sheet of 1/32 birch ply. 

Because of the more pronounced vertical curvature of the hull at the stern the compensation plate plank wouldn't fit flush to the hull. I therefore needed a different approach to marking the shape of the plank. Hence both top and bottom edges were marked directly on the hull.

The bottom (or is it top) edge of the front plate was then marked. I like to draw the curve by putting pins through at the marked out points and then pressing a flexible stick up against the pins to define the curve. I find the cork mat very useful. Many years ago it was a feature off the bathroom floor.

The following shot shows the shaped plank held in position by clamps.

The stern compensation plate was manufactured in the same way as the bow one and offered up to the hull. I took some time taking off fine slivers to get the upper and lower edges flowing together nicely at the join.

The port side plates were then made using the starboard side as patterns. 

 

The vertical curvature of plate at the stern is going to be a challenge, it just don't wanna flex that much!!!!!!!!

 

That's all friends.

 

 

 

Edited July 25 by KeithAug

[wefalck]

Apart from the fact that it may have been knocking about in your workshop, but why did you use plywood? Plywood, of course. is designed to resist curving in two directions ...

[KeithAug]

1 hour ago, wefalck said:

Apart from the fact that it may have been knocking about in your workshop,

Eberhard - As you say one reason was that it was available. I had (have) many options.

 

1. Over plank with 1/32 mahogany strips. 

2. Clad in metal - brass / copper or similar .020 thick

4. Build it up using filler (against edge strip guides).

5. Make it out of .020" card.

6. Use .020" aluminium foil sticky tape.

7. Use 1/32 birch ply.

 

Im sure more options are available and guess I will have a lot more options within a few hours of posting this.

 

My guess is that the plate protrusion is circa 0.5" and with a bit of sanding both the "wood" options would come back to about this thickness.

 

The mahogany planks option just seem a bit tedious (i have had enough of planking for a while).

 

I don't want to adopt the metal option because it's expensive for a model of this size and it would involve a lot of pieces that would have to be seamlessly matched together. The maximum  size of .020" sheet readily available is 300mm. Also the complex bending to match the hull is probably beyond my patience.

 

I thought it would be quite difficult to get a consistent thickness of filler.

 

I'm never sure about card. My worry is it won't look anything like steel once painted.

 

I was surprised to find .020" (0.5mm) tape. It isn't cheap but this might be my fallback option.

 

I think birch ply is the best and cheapest option (particularly if I ignore the bending problem). I am not too worried about getting it to bend. Famous last words 😬. I will find out within a few days.

 

 

 

 

[Bedford]

Keith, I don't think you'll have too much trouble making the ply conform as long as the curves aren't too great. We are building a 16 foot sailboat at the boatshed and it's got 6mm ply sheeting that has to bend two ways to meet the curve of the chine. The big thing is being able to pull it in and clamp it effectively and using the right glue.

 

I suppose you've already considered the joint between the two lengths of ply but in case you haven't I'd be using a scarf joint rather than a butt joint to make the joint easier to hide.

Edited July 25 by Bedford

[Mark Pearse]

8 hours ago, KeithAug said:

it just don't wanna flex that much

Hi Keith, The line of that strip looks nice. Have you tried heat on the ply? 

[druxey]

For short radiused curves, perhaps two layers of 1/64" aircraft ply with the outer grain direction vertical?

 

[FriedClams]

For what it's worth, Keith, I like Druxey's idea of a double layer solution.  On a previous build, I used 1/64" aircraft ply for the planks on a lapstrake boat and found the material to be very flexible yet tough as nails.

 

Gary

[KeithAug]

Thank you Steve, Mark, druxey, Gary. As I have already cut the pieces I am going to have a go at bending them first using boiling water. There is a danger that they won't bend enough or that they might split but as they already exist it is a no loss situation. I agree that the double 1/64" ply solution might be better so I will keep that in reserve. I should have used a scarf joint as Steve suggests so if the bending fails I will incorporate that mod into the replacement bits.  

[bricklayer]

Keith,

have you tried to score the ply longitudinally, yet?

I`d score the back of the wood with a vee-shaped rotary engraving bit at equal increments, i.e 3 to 4 mm apart and  .4 mm depth of cut.

This bit might do the job:

https://www.sorotec.de/shop/Cutting-Tools/sorotec-tools/Engraving-bits/V-Router-Bit-164/

The uppermost one is the most pointed one.

Certainly you`ll find a UK-based seller for those engraving bits.

You`ll obtain consistent cutting depth since you clamp the tool in the collet of your desktop mill.

My only concern would be the spindle speed of this kind of mill. It might run at too low rpm to cut properly with those tiny router bits.

 

Good luck. I know that you`ll succeed in any case.

 

Michael

[KeithAug]

10 hours ago, bricklayer said:

have you tried to score the ply longitudinally, yet?

Another good idea for the fallback position Michael. I will probably try the bending option tomorrow and see how I go. I think I have a lot of you guys waiting in anticipation.

[KeithAug]

Well that turned into a bit of a non event. A typical case of overthinking the problem on my part.

 

The curve that I was worried about is a bit over emphasised in the next photo.

I had tried bending the 1/32 ply around a dowel of slightly tighter radius than I needed (allowing for a bit of spring back). Bending the ply dry wasn't working so I boiled up some water, lashed the ply to the dowel with rubber bands and dunked it in the water. Almost instantly the ply became compliant and pulled tightly against the dowel.

I then left it overnight to dry out.

To get rid of the sharp discontinuity between the small and large radius ends of the plywood strip I repeated the process for the large end using a much larger radius former.

It is easier to sand the hull without the compensation plates in place so I had another go over the entire hull with 180 grit paper. The individual planks have now blended together pretty seamlessly.

The next step was gluing the compensation plates in place using PVA glue. It was pretty easy to get clamps on the edge nearest the bulwark but I had to revert to the use of pins on the opposite edge. The holes will have to be filled but this isn't a problem because they will be painted over.

The not so tricky curved piece was then glued to the aft part of the hull. It was tricker to use clamps here because of the presence of the building board, so I just used pins. Because I didn't wreck the aft piece I didn't use the scarf joint as recommended. Maybe i will remember earlier next time.

The starboard side went on equally easily.

As I work on the hull I find blemishes and defects which need to be fixed. 

I keep a pot of sanding dust handy to address these.

I dribble a few spots of CA glue on the defects and dust it over with the sanding dust.

Once dry a bit more sanding usually cures the problem.

 

That's all for now folks.

 

 

[Rick310]

Really looking good Keith. The compensation plate is really well done!

Rick

[Keith Black]

 That beautiful hull is a beast. Keith, what is the hull length and forgive me if that question has already been asked. 

[KeithAug]

Keith - I can't remember if anyone has asked.

I am building at a scale of 1:24 so from the above:-

 

LOA = 5'9"

LOD = 5'3"

LWL = 4'3"

Beam = 9"

Draft = 3.8"

 

I hope you are both keeping well. Best wishes.

[FlyingFish]

Just catching up - enjoying seeing the thought processes and problem solving, always a pleasure to learn from you.

I like the 'dunking' method. It is extrodinary how even the hardest wood becomes pliable with heat. 

I recently used a silicon heating pad (e.g shown below) for bending the sides of a guitar body. 

I've learnt that it's the heat rather than the water that softens the lignin and makes the wood malleable, although soaking the part in water seems to help.

The part is wrapped in foil then the blanket placed on top. the whole is sandwiched between a shaped mould and heated then left to cool. the silicon conforms to quite tight bends.

Mine has a thermostat and temp controller but not really necessary for smaller parts. I plan to use it for planking in my build, so offer it as a possible option for experimentation. It is very controllable, and super efficient.

These come in various lengths and this short one at £10 or so is a useful addition to the shop.

[Keith Black]

2 hours ago, KeithAug said:

LOA = 5'9"

LOD = 5'3"

LWL = 4'3"

Beam = 9"

Draft = 3.8"

 Wow. Has Mrs Keith seen this monster and if so did she ask THE question, "and just where do you plan on putting that thing" 

 

 

[KeithAug]

8 hours ago, FlyingFish said:

These come in various lengths and this short one at £10 or so is a useful addition to the shop.

Thank you Andy - i wasn't aware of such devices. I do a bit of internet searching.

[KeithAug]

7 hours ago, Keith Black said:

and just where do you plan on putting that

Keith - Ann is fairly ok with Cangarda. We have a large playroom that was vacated by the children many years ago and finished models generally go in there. It's when we inevitably downsize that the problem is going to occur and some difficult choices will have to be made. 

[Glen McGuire]

16 hours ago, KeithAug said:

I keep a pot of sanding dust handy to address these.

 

That's a great solution!  Gonna have to add that one to my bag of tricks.  

[Keith Black]

 My apologies, Keith. I forgot that your and Ann's situation is a bit different than most in that you have a dedicated room for your models. Most men don't have that luxury and their creations are seen as rivals for space in the home. It was a poor stab at humor, again my apologies. 

[KeithAug]

37 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

It was a poor stab at humor, again my apologies. 

Keith - I just took it as an innocent and sensible question. No need for any apology my friend.

[KeithAug]

3 hours ago, Glen McGuire said:

That's a great solution! 

Glen - it only works with CA glue if you plan to leave a varnished wood finish. If you try to use PVA it leaves a blemish. PVA is ok if you are going to paint.

[Dr PR]

I have mixed sanding dust with clear paint to create a thin paste for filling gaps and blemishes. Just be sure to use a paint that is compatible with your final finish.