HMS Portland 1770 by scrubbyj427 - 1:48 - 4th rate 50-gun ship

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Happy new year JJ, enjoy this beautiful project. 

[scrubbyj427]

On 1/1/2024 at 4:27 PM, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

Happy new year JJ, enjoy this beautiful project. 

Thank you Vladimir, happy new year to you as well.

[jfhealey]

Come on JJ. Stop teasing us and post a few pictures of progress!

Fred

[scrubbyj427]

1 hour ago, jfhealey said:

Come on JJ. Stop teasing us and post a few pictures of progress!

Fred

Lol! I was up until 12:30 last night just finishing the knee, I’m tying to get  little more substantial progress before I make an update.
Here’s a teaser and it’s not the same one from  earlier this year, this is the AYC production version.

JJ

 

[jfhealey]

Crikey! That is exquisite.

Fred 

[scrubbyj427]

2 hours ago, jfhealey said:

Crikey! That is exquisite.

Fred 

Thank you Fred. Going to work on it some more tonight. I don’t get much free time lately so the model is suffering.

[scrubbyj427]

So after a week of waiting on some parts to show up that I had cut wrong prior, I was finally able to get back on track. 
I started by assembling the bulkhead former, this is in 3 pieces but I’m toying with switching to two or possibly even one if I can find a box large enough. This goes together pretty easy, I used wax paper and smashed it in a vise until the joint was dry and then repeated until complete. I also added a rabbet strip, this was just basswood I cut on my saw, it required slight heat on the bow to make the curve easier.
Next is the knee, at 1/48 the knee and the false keel parts are just shy of 5/16 which is great, it will leave you some room to sand the parts and that’s what I did, now all these parts are two pieces of 5/32 AYC glued together, cutting 5/16 in one shot just had too much angle to it, it made assembly pretty difficult, but I’m still working on trying to improve the laser cut, perhaps I’ll get it in one piece someday but not for this model.

As you can see i just etched some of the parts on to the main part of the knee, this is actually pretty convincing, I did however toss in a reference line for the paint and where the wales meet the knee, I don’t like it and probably won’t keep it there, but it will get painted over on this model anyway.

Once the knee and all the false keel parts were assembled I measured the width of the former and subtracted it from the cedar pieces, using this number, roughly 1/32, I layed the former down with the 1/32 spaced sheet underneath and glued the knee and keel parts onto the rabbet. This kept everything in line and centered very well. I carefully sanded the AYC with 100, 220 and finally 320 and gave it a quick bath in some WOP just to protect it from my filthy hands.

 

Next I assembled the stands and lined them all up with a level and glued them down, the next set I screwed down, otherwise I’d never be able to lift the model out. From here I just dry fit and tested all the bulkheads, some required a bit of filing from different laser settings, the production parts will not.

 

 

Tomorrow, if I have any time, I plan to start installing the longitudinal frames to lock it all together, from there I’ll build the new stern jig and start installing the frames.

JJ

 

Edited January 12 by scrubbyj427

[jfhealey]

Wow! Exciting stuff. I am following progress with keen interest.

Fred 

[scrubbyj427]

19 hours ago, jfhealey said:

Wow! Exciting stuff. I am following progress with keen interest.

Fred 

Thank you Fred, should have another update shortly.

[glbarlow]

What a process doing this all from scratch. Amazing work.

[scrubbyj427]

20 hours ago, glbarlow said:

What a process doing this all from scratch. Amazing work.

Thank you Glenn. I’m kinda of cheating by utilizing my computer and a laser🙂

[scrubbyj427]

So I worked on some support jigs today along with the forward frames. There are three total jigs that are placed on the structure, these will remain there until the planking is completed and all the frames are supported.
 

This is a large model with lengthy unsupported frames sticking up just asking to break off, I didn’t feel comfortable fairing and planking these without some major support through the process.

The first jig is forward, it will support a larger piece that will lock the frames together and the second is in the middle it will also support this piece, both of these are represented in orange.

Below you can see the forward frames in blue, I’ll cover these first since the forward jig is dependent on these.

The pieces below are for the port side, they have fairing lines etched in already, I just sanded them carefully and test fit until I was happy. The frame you see is the forward bulkhead and timber support, this will go in last.

I had already compleated the starboard ones and installed them with the fwd bulkhead frame, I did a little bit of fairing once installed and I’ll probably have to do a little more when I fair all the bulkheads.

All three jigs are a pretty tight fit but I want them to be sturdy and keep the frames true, so some sanding and filing may be required, the assembly of the first one is shown below

The two pieces above fit snug on the outboard side of the fairing frames on frames 1,2and 3, they are all marked with arrows facing forward so you get the direction right 

I should add that the flat piece on the center of each jig is there to attach the bulkhead jig to, I had intended to just screw it down to this piece but may glue it in and just break it out when it’s time to remove. all of this will come out once it serves its purpose.

The middle jig is similar and you can see below, it fits between frames 12 and 13. 

Once the jigs are complete, the large piece that stabilizes the bulkheads will go on, it also acts as a parts tree for the gunport frames as well as the gunport cutouts to help you get the frames installed at correct angles.

I will cover this in detail much more later as i still have to build the third jig which also supports the frames, unfortunately I forgot to cut some pieces and bring them back with me.

JJ

 

 

Edited January 14 by scrubbyj427

[glbarlow]

1 hour ago, scrubbyj427 said:

I’m kinda of cheating

Not at all, that makes it all the more impressive. 

[jfhealey]

6 hours ago, glbarlow said:

that makes it all the more impressive.

I agree with Glenn. I wouldn't know where to begin designing a model surf board! 

[bdgiantman2]

Your Portland model is coming along great, Joe. I'm impressed with the frames and hawse timbers. She's going to be very sturdy indeed. It seems to me looking at your support jigs that all three conveniently are about where the masts would be on this beast.  Going to need to try this CAD program you are using even though I don't plan to do any woodburning.

 

Brian D

[scrubbyj427]

On 1/13/2024 at 9:20 PM, glbarlow said:

Not at all, that makes it all the more impressive. 

Thank you Glenn.

On 1/14/2024 at 3:33 AM, jfhealey said:

I agree with Glenn. I wouldn't know where to begin designing a model surf board! 

Thank you Fred, she’s just a little bit short of surf board status but close, no doubt.

 

19 hours ago, bdgiantman2 said:

Your Portland model is coming along great, Joe. I'm impressed with the frames and hawse timbers. She's going to be very sturdy indeed. It seems to me looking at your support jigs that all three conveniently are about where the masts would be on this beast.  Going to need to try this CAD program you are using even though I don't plan to do any woodburning.

 

Brian D

Thank you Brian. 
I guess I never really thought about the mast positions, I just went for the low point and the high point up front to give an accurate deck curve, but they did end up right in that area.

JJ

[scrubbyj427]

Small update on the stern carvings for Portland. 
The carvings are all based on the Marshall painting of the contemporary model, from 1774. 

these are all Greek mythological characters, most of which can be found on other contemporary models, sculptures and paintings all over the web. This has been useful in bridging some of the gaps on the painting. 

I should have a complete set of boxwood carvings and printed quarter galleries before I complete the planking. More updates to come soon.

 

JJ

[scrubbyj427]

I finished assembling the stern jig yesterday and began installing the stern frames, you can see below the two pieces that fit in the main jig to align all the frames

First you install the lower piece, it should fit pretty snug, so very little glue necessary,

just make sure it’s pushed all the way in and even on both sides.

the same goes for the top piece as well, snug and pushed in all the way, just a little glue necessary.

Once you have the jig fully assembled you can begin to install the stern frames. I began with the inboard frames and worked my way out. Be sure to test fit the frames into their slots before you try and push them in otherwise they will break, I sanded them gently to reduce the thickness just slightly so I had a good fit but not too tight. Do not modify the jig, its

designed to hold the frame exactly where it needs to be, so just keep it snug.

.

 

once you are happy with the fit in the jig and frames 25/24, go ahead and glue the frame down. Do not glue it to the jig! There are other pieces that will hold these all together permanently. You will have to use a small piece of scrap wood to gently push the middle two frames in from above.

Finally the most outboard frame can be fit and installed. You can see below that it just drops right in next to the MDF frame and it’s the last open slot on frames 24-25. It should sit about 1/32” below the outboard edge of the last MDF frame.

The frame should fit nicely into its jig, check to make sure both sides look even. Once everything looks good glue both outboard frames in position on frames 24 and 25 only. 
The frames can be secured with rubber bands while drying, there will also be some transverse structure going in to permanently tie them all together which I will cover next.

Below you can see the frames installed and rubber bands everywhere! 

This is a very delicate operation so take your time, it will pay dividends. It’s actually very simple, the jig does all the hard work. The jig will press down tight between frames 23-25, make sure it’s sitting down correctly and you shouldn’t have any problems. I just lightly glued it down as it will be removed after planking is complete.

 

JJ

Edited February 5 by scrubbyj427

[glbarlow]

The jigs and alignment designs are really clever, and we all gotta love those large rubber bands.  Your nice work continues, well, nicely.  Not just the build but the designing aspect, a talent that is well beyond me but one I admire. 

[scrubbyj427]

3 hours ago, glbarlow said:

The jigs and alignment designs are really clever, and we all gotta love those large rubber bands.  Your nice work continues, well, nicely.  Not just the build but the designing aspect, a talent that is well beyond me but one I admire. 

Thank you Glenn.

[scrubbyj427]

I worked on more of the stern framing last night, there are two pieces that make up the stern chaser framing, 

the longer of the two is the lower one and it faces up. You can see both are etched to receive the gun port frames.

this piece will fit in the jig and that will align it with the slots on the frames. I utilized rubber bands for the upper piece to keep it in place and help manipulate a nice smooth curve into it. The frames will help define that curve as they are slotted to fit.

As you see above the lower piece will define itself without assistance. 

The gun port frames are laser cut and should slide right into the slots, you may have to sand them a little to get them to fit. I put a slight bevel in the top and bottom. 

The wider of the two go inboard.

There are 3 more pieces that span all 6 frames but we can’t add these until after the hull is faired up.

 

 

Edited February 7 by scrubbyj427

[Thukydides]

Fantastic, unfortunately there is no way I could ever fit this thing in my house .

[jfhealey]

2 hours ago, Thukydides said:

I could ever fit this thing in my house

I shall address this problem by not telling my wife what I'm up to!!

[scrubbyj427]

11 hours ago, Thukydides said:

Fantastic, unfortunately there is no way I could ever fit this thing in my house .

I’m pretty sure a 1/72 victory with rigging will be larger. Portland comes in at 43”. 
 

I think Fred has the right idea, always ask for forgiveness rather than permission.😂

[scrubbyj427]

Today I installed the QG door frames,

these are simple, but require a little work, there’s a lot of business going on in the back so some parts need to be trimmed but your saw will make quick work of this.

I started at the upper gun deck and worked my way down.

the outboard stern frame has a ledge cut in it for all the door frames to rest on, they also slot into frame 25, no modification should be required on the upper most and lowest frames.

Make sure that the notches face each other as seen below

The frame marked “GD upper” requires a little trim in order to clear the stern frame jig, I just

marked it and ran it through the saw and cut off about 1/16”

the same applies to the frame marked “lower” as It has a slight interference with the upper frame support jig

I did the same here as well, I just trimmed off about 1/16” on the table saw and glued it in place

with all four pieces in I just ran some scrap AYC through the saw to 1/4 x 3/16”. Take a measurement and adjust your saw to cut them at the right angle, then cut to the right length. I cut all 4 the same and they fit right in the slots.

Next I will cover the main frame support that will hold all those pesky frames in place while I build all the gun ports and plank the upper parts of the model.

 

Thanks for looking in.

 

JJ

 

Edited February 8 by scrubbyj427

[KennyH78]

Why am I always late to the party?  Simply amazing with the design and build so far, I will be following along intently with my bucket of popcorn and chair.

[scrubbyj427]

7 hours ago, KennyH78 said:

Why am I always late to the party?  Simply amazing with the design and build so far, I will be following along intently with my bucket of popcorn and chair.

Thank you Kenny, I’ll be following along on your Winnie build.

It looks like you are off to a great start. Take your time with chapter 1 and 2 (in fact take your time with all of the chapters) and it will definitely pay off as you progress. Winnie builds into a wonderful model, as you have probably already  seen.

JJ

[KenW]

Great model.  I like the use of rubber bands - kind of basic but good to keep in mind.

Cheers.

[scrubbyj427]

10 hours ago, KenW said:

Great model.  I like the use of rubber bands - kind of basic but good to keep in mind.

Cheers.

Thank you Ken, turns out they are quite handy and I will be using a lot of them on this model.

[scrubbyj427]

I decided that I needed something to support the frames, some of these things stick up over 5” from the gun deck!

I covered some of the jigs earlier, this final one attaches to them all and is what spans the whole model length and beam to support all the frames until it’s planked and solid. You can see half of it installed below.

These two final pieces are intended to keep the jig at the proper height, they should both fit tight between both ends of the middle support jig

They are marked fwd and aft with the marked end facing all the way forward and the aft mark facing all the way aft. I just very lightly glued them in so they will be easily removed later

Just carefully work them into position and make sure they are on the outside of the longitudinal bulkhead stiffener

once both sides are complete you can begin to add the top frame jig

if you lift it up slightly and slowly work each frame into the slots it will easily set right down. it has slots that should allow it to fit down snug, you can see on each of the three jig bases below 

there is one more small piece to support the forward Timbers, it has to slide in going forward, there was just no other way to get it in or out 

once in, it will support the two forward frames as well as the  forward cant frames 

once in place, I screwed down all the jig pieces to the lower jig structure. These will need to be removed later so I wouldn’t recommend gluing them down. 

i bought a ton of rubber bands from Home Depot and started going to town on pulling all the frames together into their slots, 

Most of them are pretty close and just need a little pull to stay in place. 
Now it’s time to move onto the gunport framing, I promise this will start to look like a model ship soon!

 

 

JJ