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Posted
8 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

How did you end up attaching the PE name badges?

 

7 hours ago, CDW said:

I won't attach the scripts and badges until the very end of the project and then I will likely use an acrylic clear floor polish as glue, such as "Future" or whatever it's called today. An alternative....

May I suggest Gators Grip Thin? it is what it was designed to do.... Dries completely clear, ultra thin and they won't fall off...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

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Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted

That's what I was wondering also - seems easier to clean up any smears too.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted

The next steps involve polishing and clear coat application.

 

I went over the entire painted model, wet sanding using sequentially, 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, then 12000 micro mesh polishing cloths over the red metallic paint. Once it was dry, then sprayed on my clear lacquer, Mr Color Super Clear II. There are a few specks of dust in my clear, which I will polish out with compound in later steps.

 

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Posted

Really nice looking finish. 

Andrew
Current builds:- HM Gun-brig Sparkler - Vanguard (1/64) 
HMAV Bounty - Caldercraft (1/64)

Completed (Kits):-

Vanguard Models (1/64) :HM Cutter Trial , Nisha - Brixham trawler

Caldercraft (1/64) :- HMS Orestes(Mars)HM Cutter Sherbourne

Paper Shipwright (1/250) :- TSS Earnslaw, Puffer Starlight

 

Posted

What a  lovely shade od Red  -   looking really nice.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

The finish is looking great.  One of these days I'll work up the nerve to go through all the steps to try to achieve such a shiny finish....just not on a build like my current one with a lot of decals....too much fear of sanding/polishing through the clear and ruining them.

 

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

Posted
4 hours ago, gsdpic said:

The finish is looking great.  One of these days I'll work up the nerve to go through all the steps to try to achieve such a shiny finish....just not on a build like my current one with a lot of decals....too much fear of sanding/polishing through the clear and ruining them.

 

Thanks Gary.

There are different schools of thought on whether or not to clear coat over decals. Some top competition modelers say they never clear coat over their decals. They achieve their finish first, then apply decals last with nothing on top. 

My own personal experience with clear coat over decals has been a mixed bag. At times it came out great, other times disaster. The main thing that can be said in favor of no clear over decals is the fact that decals can be removed and replaced later on without spoiling the entire paint job whereas clear over the decals means stripping the entire model back down to bare plastic if the decals are under a clear coat.

Posted

Earlier in this thread, I mentioned the hood is slightly warped and does not cleanly match/lay down in the closed position. Now that I've laid down the color coats, I've realized another issue I did not notice before now. On close inspection in preparation for clear coats, on top of the hood appears ghosting of the structural reinforcement on the inside of the hood. It's difficult to pick up the detail in a photograph, but it can be clearly seen with the naked eye. In order to fix this, I need to strip all the paint off the hood and do some body work to hide the ghosting. Since the hood is slightly warped, I'm inclined to seek out another, replacement hood. Either way I go, it's going to delay my progress, but it seems to me I would be better off with a replacement (if I can find one). Either way, it will cause a delay.

 

 

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Posted

Shame this isn’t a beat up aircraft, many modellers would kill to get an “oil can” effect like that on some panels!  The finish you have on the rest of the body is outstanding Craig, so appreciate why you looking at replacing the hood. 

Andrew
Current builds:- HM Gun-brig Sparkler - Vanguard (1/64) 
HMAV Bounty - Caldercraft (1/64)

Completed (Kits):-

Vanguard Models (1/64) :HM Cutter Trial , Nisha - Brixham trawler

Caldercraft (1/64) :- HMS Orestes(Mars)HM Cutter Sherbourne

Paper Shipwright (1/250) :- TSS Earnslaw, Puffer Starlight

 

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, CDW said:

The bare metal foil treatment on the driver's side windows will be repeated on the other three window frames, the trim areas surrounding the wheels, one strip down the center of the hood, and the rocker panels.

That is looking sharp, but what a pain it must be to place these strips around the openings.

 

Yves

Posted
36 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

That is looking sharp, but what a pain it must be to place these strips around the openings.

 

Yves

It’s very tedious. Certainly not a favorite thing to do. If the body molding is sharp, it’s a lot easier. Soft molding can be a nightmare. The areas I have the most concern about are surrounding the wheel openings. I have a plan of attack but it’s one I’ve never tried before now. We’ll have to wait to see how well it works.

Posted

This  is  looking a  stunner   Craig   -  I can see  all the  work  you  are putting into  it.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

I needed a hard edge around the wheel opening to help me guide my blade as I cut the bare metal foil. For this I used a 1mm strip of masking tape around the wheel opening, then laid my bare metal foil against the tape before following the outline of the tape to cut the foil. 

There's the rocker panel chrome on the passenger side of the body, three wheel opening trims, and last, the chrome strip down the center of the hood to complete the chrome trim pieces.

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Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, king derelict said:

Lovely work with the metal foil. That looks very difficult to get a neat finish 

alan

It's really not all that difficult if the right tools are used and you take your time doing it. A new, sharp #11 surgical scalpel is a must, along with some quality, pointed cotton swabs (Tamiya variety). I blacken the tip of my scalpel blade so I can clearly see it as it's carefully and lightly drawn against the edge of the chrome trim. It's certainly not one of my favorite parts of car modeling but nothing else takes its place.

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