HMS Victory by gil middleton - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:72

[gil middleton]

Fastening the cable to the anchor.

 

 

Looking at the real ship, I had difficulty interpreting the fastening of the cable to the anchor. It didn't look secure, but then a 9" diameter anchor cable doesn't lend itself to using an anchor hitch.  My other references weren't much clearer.  Looking at my printed (photocopied reprint) of David Steel, the quality of the illustration was too poor to interpret, however, the web site version available through the Historic Naval Ship Association (Steel, The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship, Vol. II, p. 304) was much better.

 

A simple scetch showing the fastening of the Bower anchor according to Steel.

 

 

Staining the anchor cable to simulate hemp/Manilla (Minwax water based English Oak)

 

 

Isolated view of fastening.

 

 

The next post completes the Bower anchor.

 

 

 

 

[DBorgens]

Gil,

Haven't checked in for a while. Love the anchor detail. It is very real and impressive considering the scale.

You are a MASTER at detail! Perhaps, PSSM may need to stage a "pirate attack" on the boatyard to check her out. Hmmmm.

 

Dave B

[gil middleton]

Cable fastened to the Bower anchor.

 

 

Sheet Anchor to follow.

 

Cheers, Gil

Edited October 31, 2014 by gil middleton

[gil middleton]

David,  Appreciate your comments.  I've missed the updates on the Bluenose. I'll try to connect with the PSSM next month. Gil

[edmay]

OH Sailer of the high seas what can one say,beautiful ,masterly work,That is the neatest build I've seen ,your medical skills shine through brilliantly,I downloaded your log for future ideas,thanks Gil. Edwin

[dgbot]

Gil, you are a master of detail.  I would never have done it the way you did and would have missed that detail.  Your Vic is a gold medal winner.

David B

[gil middleton]

Oh, Edwin of Port Alberni, you are very kind.  With any luck, we'll arrive someday at Port Alberni by car? or boat? and share a wee dram.  I hope the log is helpful.

David, Many thanks.  Only Daniel can give us a crew slacking the anchor cable with another crew hoisting the anchor to the cathead.  I must rely on our imagination.  I find that the little projects take on a life of their own and are more fun. However, it does slow down the build.  Thank goodness there is no performance clause attached to the build.

Cheers, Gil

[Kevin]

Gil 

Good evening

Im quite close to the sea if you want to pop over and share a wee dram

[gil middleton]

The Port Sheet Anchor in it's stowed position, held by chain and lanyard near the flukes and lashings at the stock.

 

 

An interesting size comparison, between the Bower anchor (around 8000 lbs.+) and the small Kedge anchor that could be carried out by one of the ship's boats to kedge-off a shallow or help maneuver the ship.

 

 

A better looking cathead block with simulated sheeves.

 

 

The Starboard Bower on the anchor hook

 

 

 

 

 

[gil middleton]

Kevin, I don't think I can wait that long.  I'll hoist one to you this evening. Gil

[dgbot]

What a size comparison.  Everytime I see something like that i wonder at the physical condition of the crew.  I would not wish to arm wrestle any of them.

David B

[wlell]

Gil

What are your plans for displaying and protecting your beautiful HMS Victory? Are you planning on doing a case? This is a

very large model and I would imagine a glass or even acrylic case would be extremely heavy and require a significant

underlying piece of furniture for support.

I look forward to your thoughts as I will be faced with the same problem in the near future.

All the best,

Bill Lell M.D.

Birmingham, Al

[dgbot]

A friend of mine went to a place that fabricated parts from acrylic and ordered a case.  After he got it back to his place he put strips of cherry along the corners.  As a result it looks like a case that was assembled out of wood.  however the weight was cut down significantly.  

David B

[Jerry]

Hello Gil...Actually this post is directed to Bill Lell as coincidentally I have just purchased a table to stand my Victory on.   Gill,  I hope you don't mind my intrusion into your site to give Bill this information.  Bill,  please check my site and see the table I am going to use for supporting my Victory.  Here is the link:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1951-hms-victory-by-jerry-jotika-scale-172-1805-version-wood/?hl=%2Bhms+%2Bvictory+%2Bjerry

 

Have a great afternoon.

 

Jerry

[gil middleton]

Lawrence, David, Bill and Jerry,  Many thanks.  I was out of town for the past several days and just returned.

David, the acrylic case with wood strips sounds like a great idea.

Bill, I can't imagine the Victory without a case. I think it would be a dust catcher, and little hands (grandchildren and great grandchildren) would eventually find their way into the rigging.  I'll likely follow what I did for the Constitution.

 

I made a case for the "USS Constitution" of glass (tempered, so that the glass would break into tiny bits if shattered).  Brass trim was added and when the top front is lifted, the front glass sheet can be lifted out for easy access.  And finally a table was made to fit the case.  The Constitution however, was somewhat smaller than the Victory.  It's a museum.

 

The model of the Constitution without a case.

 

 

Completion of the case.

 

 

And finally the supporting table.

 

 

Cheers, Gil

[dafi]

What a beauty :-)

 

Cheers, DAniel

[Jerry]

Good morning, Gil...

 

The display set up for your Constitution looks excellent.  It is perfectly neat and obviously custom built.  So where will you display Victory?  Maybe you are creating a museum as you say.  Your pieces (models) certainly are in that catagory. 

 

You may have noticed in my log that my Victory display case, when completed, will be similar except the case itself will be acrylic.  I was very fortunate when browsing the Internet to find a table whose dimensions were absolutely perfect, 60 x 32 inches, and 18 inches high, to accommodate the model.. I wanted a low profile due to Victory's large size. The table is a dark finished trestle table made by Wayfair.  It can also be seen on their web site,  Wayfair.com.

 

I have ordered the case from a local plastic specialty company here in  Naples and don't expect to see it until mid December.  It is designed with a removable back to allow easy placement of Victory under the case and onto the table.  A 3/4 x 3/4 inch acrylic "picture frame",  whose outside dimensions equal the case's inside dimensions will sit flat on the table and the cover (case) will fit over it.  Victory will rest on small cradle that I made and stained black walnut and will finish with a few coats of a satin polyeurothane.  Since I didn't want to be presumptious, and clutter your log site with a picture of my table, I hope you will check my log to see it. 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1951-hms-victory-by-jerry-jotika-scale-172-1805-version-wood/?hl=%2Bhms+%2Bvictory+%2Bjerry        

 

page 65

 

I hope you have a fantastic day.

 

Best regards,

 

Jerry

Edited November 11, 2014 by Jerry

[mcpwilk]

Beautifully done. I always mount my ships/boats over a mirror in their cases.

 

Mike

[wlell]

Gil

I agree with Jerry: a beautiful case for a beautiful model!! Would you be so kind as to explain in more detail how "the top

front is lifted so that the front glass sheet can be lifted out for easy access." Does the top front brass piece lift off?

 

Thank you in advance for your reply.

 

Bill

[gerty]

Beautiful Work !

[dgbot]

Nicely done.  Many individuals make a fancy case that detracts from the model.  Yours is subdued enhancing the Connie's beauty.  Well done and well presented.

David B

Edited November 11, 2014 by dgbot

[JSGerson]

As with anything you touch, it is gorgeous creation. Just perchance, did you happen to create a build log of the Constitution? I couldn't find one by you on this site. If it's on another site, I would love to see it. The Constitution is my next project whenever I finally finish the Rattlesnake.

[gil middleton]

Daniel, Always appreciate your visits.

Thanks David.  I agree that some cases overshadow the model.

Jon, I enjoyed perusing your log, particularly the bow and served collars for the forestay and preventer.  I'm requesting directions from our overworked moderators on posting a log on the Constitution.

Gerty, I also like your Willie L. Bennett. I think I mentioned before that a Chesapeake Skipjack may be my next project.

Jerry,  Indeed, I had already checked your log. Good find on the table.

Mike, Like the idea of a mirror under toe model. I'll keep it mind when I get there.

Bill,  Following is a description of how the case was put together. Probably more than you wanted to know.

 

The wood base has grooves created by a router. All the glass panels (back, sides and front) fit in these grooves.

 

The glass is 1/8" tempered glass.  With active (hyperactive?) grandkids, tempering the glass avoids dangerous glass shards if broken.

 

The brass "L" shaped strips were 3/8" each side and approximately 1/32" thick. Tempering the glass creates some distortion, and 1/4" "L" was not enough to hide the distortion and cover the glue joints.  The brass "L" was obtained through Michael Wall, American Marine Model Gallery ( wall@shipmodel.com ).

 

 

[gil middleton]

Just converted to Firefox to upload drawings. A few pen sketches to explain case construction.

 

The brass  "L"    3/8" each side by approximately 1/32" thick.

 

 

The back and side panels were glued together with aquarium silicone glue, then reinforced by gluing Brass  "L" strips over the joint, hiding the glue joint.

 

 

The front panel was finished with the brass  "L" glued to the right and left borders.  The brass L overlaps the side panels but was not glued to them.

 

 

The top glass panel has brass  L on all sides which overlaps all the other panels and holds the front panel in place.

 

 

When the top panel is lifted at the front, the front panel is free to swing out and be removed, providing easy access to the model.

 

 

There are probably hundreds of ways to build a case. This worked for me.  Cheers, Gil

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Hello Gil

As always very informative and detailed information. I'm finding your build log invaluable as I progress with my build. Thank you.

Edited November 12, 2014 by Glennard

[wlell]

Gil

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I really appreciate your ideas on how to protect my grandkids as well as the

model.

All the best,

Bill

[WackoWolf]

 

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I really appreciate your ideas on how to protect my grand kids as well as the

model.

I agree totally with what was said by Bill. A step by step account of the way it was done. Thank you very much for this.

[gil middleton]

Thanks Glen and Joe.

Glen, you've made amazing progress on your Victory is what seems like a very short time.

Bill, We seem to agree, the model is fun and challenging while the grandkids are far more important and irreplaceable.

Cheers, Gil 

[gil middleton]

Continuing with the anchors after a diversion into display cases.  While the port bower anchor is shown in the secured position, the starboard anchor is depicted in the process of being stowed.  In the following photo, the anchor is catted (cathead tackle is two blocked, while showing the purpose of the cathead), the sling from the anchor ring has been place over the cathead, the lifting sling is seen at the inboard fluke and the chain and spliced line supports the shaft.  To complete the process, the tackle from the cathead would be moved to a sling on the anchor shaft and the sling removed at the fluke.

 

 

Detail of the anchor ring sling.

 

 

Looking forward

 

 

Cathead block and anchor hook. Messenger lashed to anchor hook.

 

 

Looking aft.

 

[gil middleton]

And the sheet anchor.  The chain and spliced line to support the anchor shaft and on the right, the line for lashing the stock.

 

 

The sheet anchor lashed in place.

 

 

And on to the next challenge.  Cheers, Gil