HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build

[jim_smits]

Hi Jason

I had the same issue with the position of the futtock staves on the mizzen. I ended up moving them a further 1cm up if I remember correctly.

[clloyd]

I'd agree with your assessment.  

Colin

[mort stoll]

I agree. They have to be repositioned.

 

Mort

[Beef Wellington]

Thanks gents, it was a vain hope to expect for a chorus of voices saying "thats exactly how its supposed to be" 

 

Well, 5hrs back, and 3 forward!  Luckily the futtock staves came off without any damage, although I was sweating bullets fearing I would cut through a shroud, that would be a lot of rework.  Futtock staves re-positioned and topmast shrouds reinstalled (bit of final tie off still to do on port side).  Even after moving these there is still not too much of an overhang but it looks a lot better, they really couldn't go any higher.  I cheated a little and took the shroud on the inside of the futtock stave rather than the outside as it technically should be because it looked a little better to my eye.  The main and fore-topmasts situation will be the same.

 

This may have been a blessing in disguise.  The catharpins would have interfered with the driver gaff and associated rigging so I will leave these off following the AOTS Pandora illustration where catharpins are not shown on the mizzen.

 

[JesseLee]

I am learning a lot about rigging from your log. Thanks for sharing all the pics. I am coming up to these steps on my build. Will be studying yours closely during my surgery recovery learning how I will do mine.

[Beef Wellington]

Jesse - thanks for the kind words, just sharing the learning experience I'm going through.

 

And thanks for the 'likes'....

 

Finishing up the mizzen topmast ratlines, these are proving to be quite challeging as the shrouds don't have anywhere near as much tension as the others due to the fact they transfer all tension to the lower shrouds/futtock stave and would pull that all askew.  With all the other ratlines, they tend to want to pull the shrouds together, here, the shrouds are thinner line and close together and its the opposite effect where the ratlines want to push them apart.  Anyway, its coming together.

 

Bit of a diversion, as next step will be to rig the mizzen backstays and there were a couple of items I wanted to get done before the backstays make access a bit more difficult.  Installed a copper 'sheet' where the driver gaff will go (yes, its a spare copper plate from the hull rolled as flat as I can to get rid of the bumps - it looks better in person and should tone down with age.)  Its an approximation and not mentioned in instructions, but adds a bit more interest.  The tops are shaped to the angle the gaff will sit at once installed.

 

 

Next up was installing a saddle which again is not mentioned in the instructions.  This was a square strip of styrene bent to shape.

 

 

I've stared at the driver boom and gaff jaws ever since I opened the box and wondered how they would look.  Well, I got my answer, pretty awful - they just look a bit big and flat, and didn't look that great to my eye.  Anyway, I dutifully assembled these and then decided to try to improve them by building up with some spare walnut and then sanding to shape.  I much prefer the end result.

 

Built up with spare strip wood and roughly shaped

 

Finished driver boom, iron bands simulated with paper, ring bolts and holes not added yet, more work to do on the boom itself first.  The 'out of box' solution is next to it.

 

Driver boom in place sitting on its saddle.  Still maybe a little big (?) but I'm happy.  Now to do the driver gaff which will be a little more tricky because of the angle that needs to be built into the jaws.

Edited May 16, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[Blue Ensign]

I've never come across kit boom jaws that didn't need some serious modification, or scratch replacements. They invariably look too clumsy and overscale.

 

Your replacement is a great improvement Jason, as are the repositioned futtocks.

 

B.E.

[Beef Wellington]

Thanks BE as always, and all the 'likers' - means a lot to have so many excellent modelers looking in.

 

Mizzen topmast stays have had me thinking for a while - it just doesn't seem to make sense to have standing rigging attached at both ends with no method of adjustment.  I followed a general principle seen elsewhere and made the stay up with a loop to go around the hounds (not served around the hoop as its only 0.5mm line - need to draw a line somewhere, and seems tricky at this thickness).  At the other end, I inserted a bullseye (sourced from Bluejacket) and attempted to simulate a splice.  This was lashed to a ringbolt on the maintop as per plans - this would allow adjustment.  I went with thin black line for the lashing to avoid looking too busy, don't think its too much of a stretch.

 

Stay before installation

 

The bullseye lashed to maintop

 

The completed mizzen standing rigging at the hounds.

Edited May 19, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[mort stoll]

Hi Jason,

 

Is the bullseye in the Blue Jacket Catalogue?

 

Thanks,

Mort

[egkb]

That looks the absolute Biz Jason, am inclined to agree re the ability to adjust its length .. Good Choice !

 

Cheers

 

Eamonn

[The Sailor]

Nice progress Jason. I like the modified driver boom, it looks very much better now.

[clloyd]

That's pretty much what Lees illustrates.  Good job.

 

Colin

[aliluke]

Seriously good rigging work Jason. I'll be back into your log when I get to this stage.

[Beef Wellington]

Cheers All.

 

Mort - the bullseyes are item F0340 in the BlueJacket catalogue (1/16" inch - scored), I also got some of the larger 1/8" ones as I'm hoping they can be used for the slings.

[mort stoll]

Thanks very much and keep posting. Your build is wonderful.

 

Mort

[Beef Wellington]

Thanks for kind words and likes guys.  The garden/yard and kids sports seem to be taking up most non-working hours, but little progress.  I have all the top and topgallant masts shaped and finished, but before rigging the various shrouds it seems to make sense to get the slings in place as these would be challenging with shrouds fixed.

 

Followed Lever pretty closely on this, and again used a bullseye from BlueJacket.  The other advantage doing this now is that the sling can be made off of the ship a slipped over the topmast cross trees once finished.  I followed the plan and used 0.75mm line,  but was initially thinking it would not look bulky enough.  Once served it looks better and I think in keeping with something capable of supporting a main yard (?)

 

One question I noodling over - I've definitely seen in pictures of other (larger) vessels where there is a shaped, grooved saddle that helps the lie of the sling over the hard cap edges.  Lever however simply shows the slings resting on the mast cap, as I have here.  Is one any more correct than the other, or is it possibly a big ship/small 'ship' thing?

 

 

 

 

[hamilton]

Hi Jason:

 

I've been a bit of a lurker on MSW lately, but coming back and visiting your log I continue to be impressed by your work! The rigging is great - amazing detail and a beautiful look - I'm becoming more and more tempted to pick up this kit! 

hamilton

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Jason,
 

Very nicely made up that sling, but as with almost everything to do with rigging there are variations and differing opinions as to the set up.
 

Longridge certainly shows the Slings on Victory retained by battens forming grooves on top of the mast cap, whereas Lees indicates that the sling was supported by a cleat nailed to the aft side of the Masthead, as does Antscherl in the ffm, who also says that Steel did not specify slings for any rate below 32 guns.
 

He also shows that the slings passed thro’ the foremost aperture in the top. On Victory there is a small square hole on the forward side of the top thro’ which the sling passes, but Lees suggest that this arrangement was perhaps more early nineteenth century rather than late Eighteenth.
 

To my eye your arrangement looks a little awkward with the sling rubbing against the topmast. Can you install a small cleat to hold it back a little? I’d be tempted to have a play with it, and see how it looks passed around the aft side of the masthead, if you have sufficient length, but it’s a small point and I wouldn’t get too concerned about it.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Beef Wellington]

Hamilton - cheers!  I can't compare the Snake to other kits, but aside from some rather brief instructions (looking at more recent CC offerings) which I'm sure would not be an issue for you  it does make up into a great model but does scream for upgrades and modifications.

 

BE - thanks for the wealth of information, my reference 'library' is rather limited .  You're absolutely right, "awkward" is probably the best word to use, just does not seem right to have a the sling around the mast and going over a hard corner.  Need to play with some options, think I'm leaning toward a rounded saddle with a groove to secure the sling as illustrated in Petersson (my other book) but will do some playing with options you outline.  Also, given that the top has the open hole you describe, it does seem logical to use that appreciate the pointer.

Edited May 29, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[drtrap]

Hi Jason

what was your final reference for making such amazing rigging of the collars with deadeyes and heart, at the bowsprit?

I like to follow the same way, but without serving the line...

[drtrap]

Testing....

[Beef Wellington]

Hi Jason

what was your final reference for making such amazing rigging of the collars with deadeyes and heart, at the bowsprit?

I like to follow the same way, but without serving the line...

 

Tried to draw both methods with served (A) and unserved (B ).  Served is a little more complex because you need the exact measurement and you need to hide the 'join' where the line is 'spliced' with the seizing to secure the deadeye.  Although I haven't used the method outlined for the non-served line for deadeyes, I have used it elsewhere.  In both cases the seizing needs to be done on the bowsprit because the seizing essentially tightens everything and keeps it secure.  Method is the same for deadeyes and hearts.

 

The other I used method which I outlined earlier in the log was to make the deadeyes with eyes at each end, and then lash these together.  Although more accurate, its a real pain to do and I abandoned it after one as the results were not visible.

 

Hope this is readable and makes sense.

 

Edited May 30, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[Beef Wellington]

Revisited the slings.  Decided to go with approach illustrated in Petersson.  Small piece of spare walnut wash shaped and a groove cut to accept the top of the sling.  I found that initially cutting a small slot with an exacto blade, and then scraping with a piece of 1mm wire with rough edges to the end was the easiest way to get this done.  The sling now sits much more naturally and doesn't go round any hard edges which makes more practical sense.  Following BEs comment, also decided to place the sling through the forward opening which seems to be the reason for it being there.

 

In the course of this exercise, I realise that I have omitted the sling on the mizzen which already has the topmast shrouds installed.  I'll need to attach that in situ.

 

Unpainted 'thingy' on formast...it must have a name

 

Diminutive bosun inspecting the result and shouting his approval to move on...

[drtrap]

Tried to draw both methods with served (A) and unserved (B ).  Served is a little more complex because you need the exact measurement and you need to hide the 'join' where the line is 'spliced' with the seizing to secure the deadeye.  Although I haven't used the method outlined for the non-served line for deadeyes, I have used it elsewhere.  In both cases the seizing needs to be done on the bowsprit because the seizing essentially tightens everything and keeps it secure.  Method is the same for deadeyes and hearts.

 

The other I used method which I outlined earlier in the log was to make the deadeyes with eyes at each end, and then lash these together.  Although more accurate, its a real pain to do and I abandoned it after one as the results were not visible.

 

Hope this is readable and makes sense.

 

IMG_0763.JPG

Jason

your excellent drawing was absolutely helpfull, for all of us.

Many thanks.

Cheers

 

Stergios

Edited May 30, 2014 by Stergios

[Blue Ensign]

That sits easy on my eye now Jason

 

B.E.

[cog]

Jason,

 

Long time no see. You've been continuing steadilly all those months, while I haven't been able to do anything. Very nice work on the rigging!!

[Beef Wellington]

Carl, great to hear from you and hope all is well, its been a while!  Hope you can see some progress, looking forward to you getting back in the shipyard.  All the best.

Edited June 3, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[Beef Wellington]

Given my log has slipped to near the bottom of page 2 on the 'my contents' tab it looks like I've been slipping - work, visitors, garden all playing a factor in the snail like progress.  I'll save some photos for a little later when I have something concrete to report.  In true MSW tradition, I'm going to attempt to disguise the lack of progress by showing my next kit which I'll be tinkering with when I can to take advantage of the nice weather.

 

Edited June 27, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[Landlubber Mike]

Jason, your Snake looks great and I'm excited to follow your Jason build.  Very cool to build a ship with your namesake, and especially one that is gorgeous  like that one (I really love the look of the Artois class)

[Beef Wellington]

Cheers Mike.  Of course I'm kicking myself now, I was just down in DC this past week - I should have tried to schedule a "showing" of your Badger and Unicorn....doh!