MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Steve I know Ed Tosti mentioned it doesn't mark the timber,but I was still fraught with trepidation not only that,but the LOS is neuturalised by a wash of dilute Bicarbonate of soda.Neither affected the timber,however the water raised the grain which gets 'knocked' back when flatting the varnish.Obviously sanding the deck after treatment would remove the patina.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Edited January 1, 2015 by NMBROOK

[NAZGÛL]

Wonderful work! I really like how you managed to get the nails and caulking to look in scale.

 

 

Happy new year mate!

 

/Matti

Edited January 1, 2015 by NAZGÛL

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed mate There is a bit of a debate in Richard Ensor's restoration warship covering Lennox as to the use of iron spikes v treenails on the deck.This ship is same period,same yard so I have adopted a little artistic licence.To be correct they should be blackened but I felt that would create an OTT look and they would dominate the deck,detracting from the timber.As you know yourself,exact historical representation does not necessarily convey the same impression when scaled down,a balance needs to be struck IMHO,just like in plastic modelling.

 

Happy New Year buddy

 

Nigel

Edited January 1, 2015 by NMBROOK

[DORIS]

Magnificent work, dear Nigel. The level of details on the planking is breathtaking.
Happy New Year
Best regards
Doris

[NMBROOK]

Thank you Doris for your kind words Unfortunately,like yourself,a new job has reduced my time for modelling   .

 

Happy New Year  

 

Best wishes

 

Nigel

Edited January 1, 2015 by NMBROOK

[gjdale]

Great looking deck Nigel. I like your approach to "scaling down" effects. I too like to use LoS. Ever since reading EdT's description of being able to use it "in situ" without affecting the surrounding timber, I've used it with copper in lieu of brass whenever I can. Just did the "bolts" in the frames of my cross section the same way and it works a treat. I find that it's also very easy to use - another bonus!

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much Grant Yes I to am a copper convert.It is so much easier to work with and you can always stretch it for a work hardened stronger fixing when the need arises.

 

Happy New Year

 

Nigel

[patrickmil]

Nigel, that deck is breathtaking. I will have to give your LoS and copper method a try. The results you're achieving with it are incredible.

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Patrick for your kind words

 

A few pointers if you or anyone fancy having a go

Seal the deck first,I used several coats of poly,pear is very absorbant.The thick cyano I use may have marked the deck otherwise.

Ensure you get a little 'bead' of cyano around the fixing.This stops the fixing being dragged out or deformed by the sanding process.

Use a sanding block to flat the copper down after trimming (nail clippers are good, although I have found some small end cutters now that get quite close)

I started with a 'coke can' quantity of warm water and added the tinniest drop of LOS.If no affect after several minutes,add a tiny bit more LOS.This was how I achieved the mild patina without turning the copper black.It really is tiny quantities of LOS,a tiny bit too much and the copper will start to blacken.

 

Happy New Year

 

Nigel

[CaptainSteve]

Sooo ... sumink like 0.1ml of the LoS to 375ml water ??

The stuff I have is quite syrup-y ...

 

(PS: A standard Coke can in Oz is this size)

Edited January 2, 2015 by CaptainSteve

[NMBROOK]

Hi Steve

The LOS I bought is a longlife gel.I reckon on a couple of blobs about 5mm diameter,really too small to measure as the gel is almost like treacle.Yes coke cans are the same size over here,but it was probably two thirds full as I had cut the top off (they make handy disposable containers,wife wouldn't have been happy if her pyrex stank like rotten eggs ).I recomend the gradually adding to the mix approach as copper compositions vary and you really are just wanting the very start of the process.When it starts to go red then you know it is going too far.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Edited January 2, 2015 by NMBROOK

[CaptainSteve]

Thanks, Nigel ...

Having seen very many methods of trenailing on MSW, this is, without question, my (new) favourite !!

 

Incidentally, I'm aware of the aroma produced by the LoS.

Speaking from personal experience, the smell does fade (after awhile) and the neighbours will (eventually) forgive you.

Edited January 2, 2015 by CaptainSteve

[md1400cs]

Nigel,

 

Oh my!  all of the previous remarks are mine as well all in CAPITAL letters. Your work just keeps getting better and better, hard to believe possible!!

 

Cheers,

 

MIchael

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Michael for your kind words

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Beef Wellington]

Fantastic as always Nigel, just wonderful.  I'd never thought about LoS being used for this, but very interesting.  Do you think that it could also be a solution to providing an aged patina to copper hull plates?

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Jason Yes,I dare say if you were just after dulling the plates and perhaps darkening a few it would work on copper plates.If you want something a little more extreme,the same company do a verdigris product.I should imagine you can regulate the effect by the strength of the solution.Here is the link; http://www.metalclay.co.uk/patinas/

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Excellent question Crackers!!After studying the pics of the builders model on the NMM website,of which there are many,the following need addressing if you want a historically accurate model.The upper gunports are one too few and the spacing needs adjusting.The beakhead area and stern are completely wrong.Both of these areas are actually very complex and are described in John Franklin's Navy board models.The stern balcony is actually grated with the carvings acting as supporting'gussets'.This allows water to drain through.According to John Franklin.this is the only ship he was aware of with this arrangement.The beakhead also has a raised grated deck.I feel that to incorporate these details,Euromodels would have to have increased the price by a large amount.If Mordaunt cost more than Royal William,no one would buy the kit.So yes Van de Velde's pic is accurate.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Edited January 6, 2015 by NMBROOK

[NMBROOK]

I am building mine inline with Van de velde's work and the builders model.The gunport quantity position was already been addressed when I cut them.The stern balcony arrangement will be added when I add the stern framing.I never intended to build as Euromodel intended from the start.The actual hull shape is correct OOTB,the stern involves lengthening the hull sides by around 15mm above the counter.Tweaks have also been made to the sheer of the top edge of the hull.The hull around the beakhead is also correct,it is how this area is enclosed by the 'three step' arrangement each side that changes things.If your search 'Mordaunt 1681' on the NMM website,you will see all the pics which explain things clearer.The area under the foredeck is also enclosed,a curved bulkhead featuring belfry is missing from the Euromodel kit.

The bigger question is,which way are you going to build yours Crackers?

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

 

P.S. I hope you start a log,kinda lonely being the Mordaunt builder on here

[NMBROOK]

I have continued on and cut the remainder of the deck beams.It was a slow job due to the parallelogram shape of the aft beams because of the deck sheer.These are inserted through corresponding slots in the hull.These will be slid out and the remaining deck clamps fitted.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

 

P.S.Excuse the dust,my compressor gave up the ghost the other week so I am currently without an airline for dusting off

Edited January 11, 2015 by NMBROOK

[NAZGÛL]

Gorgeous!

 

 

/Matti

[NMBROOK]

Thanks mate!!

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Edited January 11, 2015 by NMBROOK

[egkb]

Deadly Work There Mate..

 

E

[NMBROOK]

Thanks buddy!!

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[marktiedens]

Really sharp - love that planking.

 

/Mark

[mtaylor]

Beautifully stunning, especially that stern shot.   I'm wondering the same thing as John about why beams first and then clamps.

[NMBROOK]

Thank you John,Mark and Mark The beams are not glued in yet.The theory is that this gives me the freedom to shim the holes where necessary to give a smooth run and even distance to the top gunports.The shims are glued in.With the beams slid out,the deck clamps are fitted unnotched and the slots extended through the clamps

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Vivian Galad]

Great work, Nigel. Even though the beams will be off for a while, It´s great to see them there. ^^

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much Vivian Yes it gives a good indication on the direction I am heading

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[usedtosail]

Those are some great shots of the interior Nigel.

[NMBROOK]

 

You asked me, Nigel, how I would construct the model of the MORDAUNT ? My model would try to follow the copy of the model now at the NMM, as depicted in the photo.

 

 

As a cost cutting measure, it might be expedient for Euromodels to leave out details, but this would not be a faithful rendition of the original ship of 1681. Can you get photos of the MORDAUNT from the National Maritime Museum as a guide to construct you model as accurate as possible ? It would seem that you living in England, would have that advantage available to you.

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

Photos: NMM collection

 

Montani semper liberi   Happy modeling

      Crackers    

The photos on the NMM museum website are available to purchase,however I doubt they will be as useful as zooming in on the images that are online.The downside is you can't print them out.I would assume that this model now resides at Chatham historic dockyard.I did toy with seeing if I could visit and photograph the model,however,I have managed to collate enough information to be able to build a pretty accurate replica.The model is also featured in John Franklin's Navy board model book.If I do visit,it won't be until much later this year.

I am glad you are going for a faithful reproduction.I look forward to seeing how you go on.The only versions of this kit I have seen built are straight out of the box.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel