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HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn


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Fine job.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Sanity Check time.....

 

I received my order of blocks for the Syren Ship Modeling Company and they were fantastic....but they stopped me in my tracks.  (don't tell the kids, these are my Christmas presents from them)

 

post-6104-0-31951700-1449350321_thumb.jpg

 

Accurate scaling is a big issue, especially with regards to rigging.  Previously I have done kits and my base impressions in sizing are from those.  Looking at the 6" blocks scaled down to 1/8" showed my brain had not wrapped itself around this correctly.  There was NO way the rigging cord I had chosen would fit into that.

 

post-6104-0-05747900-1449350322_thumb.jpg

 

I used a rigging sizing chart from Chuck and added some snips of line I had available that was sized and made the following rigging sizing tool (note: line not from Chuck).  My goal is to have at least 3 if not 4 different line thicknesses.

 

post-6104-0-79097700-1449350322_thumb.jpg

 

This showed that the rigging I had selected was more in the 5" scale sizing, not the 2" needed for those small blocks.  Well now I know and can make some adjustments before rework is required.  I did place the acquired blocks on some 1/48 scale pics in the TFFM and they fit great so my math isn't wrong.

 

My purchasing requirements had been:

post-6104-0-31789400-1449350320_thumb.jpg

 

I have decided that instead of combining the 5,6, and 7" blocks into the 1/8" scale, I am only going to use the 5 and 6".  I do have enough 3/16" blocks to cover all the 7, 8 and 9" so that is good.

 

The education of Krug,

mark

 

P.S  THANK YOU CHUCK!

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Before the Christmas parties at the house wanted to be able to show the model in its basic form so I moved onto the main yard arm:

 

post-6104-0-40041700-1450028301_thumb.jpgpost-6104-0-47324800-1450028302_thumb.jpg

 

I used the process outlined in TFFM and don't think I will go back to dowels ever again. A lot easier to get the center 8 sided portion and tapering / rounding the remainder really isn't that bad a process.  I still have the cleats and some final shaping but this week I aim for the topyard and topgallant yard rough ins.

 

You can probably guess I have 'pinned' the yard to the mast.  This ship will use a truss so all will be hidden.

 

Ho Ho Ho,

Mark

 

 

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Thanks for all the looks and likes!

 

This evening success breads motivation.  So....I continued on with the population of the main yard arm:  cleats and boom irons.

 

post-6104-0-06843700-1450053512_thumb.jpg

 

I had thought long and hard about the stunsl booms.  Carrying on the theme of the main mast I decided to try using black paper and mini-dowels for the irons holding them onto the main yard.  I don't think they turned out too bad.  Taking a step back I am definitely ready for that topmast yard.

 

post-6104-0-17599400-1450053511_thumb.jpg

 

Mark

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Cool.  I like the way this is shaping up.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Cool.  I like the way this is shaping up.  

 

Hi Mark

 

I definitely agree with Mark!!!  Looking mighty fine.

 

Quick question and probably a stupid one, though. I keep seeing "TFFM' being quoted by a number of modellers, but what does it actually stand for???

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

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Patrick,

 

TFFM is the The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl available from Seawatch Books.  There's four volumes and an addendum on sail-making.  Very worthwhile, in my opinion.   As an alternate, Ed Tosti's Naiad is also very valuable.  Two volume set.   I don't have Ed's book, but I do have the set of TFFM and it is a detailed description of just about everything.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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success breads motivation.

 

Mark

That's a great motto.  We can see your success in the beauty you build.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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  • 2 weeks later...

<<this question moved to the rigging forum section of this site>>

 

Even though I have had little time in the shop, the brain neurons keep firing....

 

A future problem to tackle involves the quarter deck rail (pic from full Druid mid-construction):

post-6104-0-78594200-1450810471.jpg

 

The following lines are connected to this rail:

1.  Mainsail clewlines

2.  Mainsail buntlines

3.  Mainsail Leechlines

4.  Topsail Clewlines

5.  Topsail reef tackles

6.  Topgallant sheets

 

The question is how?  Per the plans this rail is not a real 'beefy' one.  Tying them all just to the top rail would seem foolhardy given the stresses.  Normally you would see some sheaves either attached to, or through the bases of each column but these rails seem too thin for that.  At the very least belay pins seem in order (total 16, 4 between each post), but the runs of the lines are in question.  With two lines per category (port / starboard) I currently do not have a firm decision.

 

If I was rigging a full ship you would also add:

1.  Mainstaysail halyard

2.  Mizzen Topsail Bowline

3.  Fore Topgallant Brace

 

Any opinions?

Mark

Edited by kruginmi
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I have been doing several samples and think I have finally hit upon my solution set for the Druid-X.

 

First off, my palette:

post-6104-0-10909200-1451264428_thumb.jpg

 

I use sanding sealer prior to the acrylic paints, topped off with a top coat.  My original thought was a satin top coat, but that proved a no go.  I used a flat and that seemed to do the trip, though the camera shot shows it with a more of a gloss than it does.

post-6104-0-01795300-1451264426_thumb.jpg

 

The white will be the lower hull (no copper), black for the wales and yellow for upper hull and lower masts.  The red is a darker one that I like (no historical research here, just something I found).

 

Finally, being able to paint the masts and yardarm the next step will be rigging.  How will I get those lines nice and served?  With my new Serv-O-Matic of course:

post-6104-0-01926800-1451264427_thumb.jpg

 

Tomorrow is them treating the main yard and lower main mast.

Mark

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With the painting decisions made it was time to take the plunge.  After many trips to the workshop and back for the many coats I am quite pleased with the result.  The yellow is quite muted in the photos, seems a little more yellow in person:

post-6104-0-70231100-1451427011_thumb.jpgpost-6104-0-63085600-1451427012_thumb.jpg

 

I intend to keep the outer yards as well as upper masts in the natural wood color as is shown.  As a side note, most everything you see can still be disassembled.  I also did a raw cutout of the remaining two yard arms which still have to be shaped:

post-6104-0-20430400-1451427013_thumb.jpg

 

Looking forward to serving some strops and trying out this rigging thing.  I do have to get back to that hull eventually.....

Mark

Edited by kruginmi
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Thanks Patrick.

 

A little spurt of energy / progress here and there.  Probably no tri's this year, focusing on getting this and the other projects in the work shop OUT of the workshop:  a case for my Swift, completing my Lady Anne, Billings Boats Regina (wife picked), my Dad's Revell Constitution, restore my Dad's Mayflower, and others.  Whew.  Might be two years.....

 

I do feel a weight off my shoulders with the paint straightened out and the rigging process (supplies and procedures) straight in my head.  Now to get the two other yards ship shape.

Mark

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  • 3 weeks later...

So many plans, so little time.....I finally forced myself into the workshop in a little break (who needs sleep) to accomplish something.  This something was to start the rigging.  I have attached the jeer block with a served double strop.  As usual, the black on black on black tends to obscure all that hard work, but I know it is there (we won't mention the sail that will eventually obscure most everything else):

 

post-6104-0-31121000-1453426882_thumb.jpg

 

Pretty proud of that.  I also was able to get the two sections of line served for the quarter blocks:

 

post-6104-0-70472900-1453426883_thumb.jpg

 

Hoping for tomorrow to get both of those also set up (no promises).

 

Stay Building My Friends,

Mark

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  • 5 months later...

Hey, still alive (hah, hah).  Still very much intend on finishing this (as well as multiple other projects in the future).  I have been slightly side tracked lately with another project (still nautical though!) (and still wood!) - a PBY Catalina float plane.  45" wing span.  The ship waits patiently.

 

post-6104-0-03051200-1467717303.jpg

 

I have become a lurker lately.  Thanks to everyone for their progress shots that keep the creativity fires burning!

 

Mark

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Last statement on the PBY (to avoid the moderators 'Eye of Sauron' - hah hah).  

 

It is a Guillows series 2000 static build - no flight.  Of course heavily kit bashed (and thus improved IMHO).  Like the plastic nose section has been replaced with a scratch wood replacement.  The wife said she didn't know of enough vertical surfaces to display the ships so I went horizontal.  It will be covered with silkspan.

 

Mark

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  • The title was changed to HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn

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