28' Ranger-type Yacht by Mark Pearse - FINISHED - 1:12

[Mark Pearse]

thank you Patrick, & I agree that the designer had an artistic eye - 

 

The spray boards are on (not sure if they have a proper name), they channel spray across the deck & help stop it going down the companionway hatch, & a spray dodger would clip off to it. The toe rails will possibly be next.

 

Also, temporary portholes / scuttles, done with paper to check position & size.

 

thanks

 

 

 

[Omega1234]

Hi Mark

 

Looking really swish!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[Jim Lad]

She really does look the ant's pants, Mark!

 

John

[Bedford]

I've seen one of these under sail on Sydney Harbour and they are just beautiful, they make it look so easy compared to the newer boats too. This is just magnificent!

[michael mott]

Mark you are doing a superb job she really looks like a fine craft.

 

Michael

[Mark Pearse]

thank you

 

As a comparison, this shows the most similar yacht, Maluka, fully powered up just after the start of last Sydney Hobart, sporting an immaculate sails set beautifully.....drool. You can see the canvas spray dodger.

[Jim Lad]

A great action shot, Mark!  The 'Maluka' looks like she's really charging down the harbour!

 

John

[Mark Pearse]

A bit more....the toe rails are done & installed & I'm making the 6 horn cleats that sit around the cockpit area. The toe rails seemed especially fragile & gave me some grief. The Queensland Maple generally seems good to work with, but 1.5 x 2.5mm seems to be beyond it, just seemed to break at the slightest touch.

 

Sampson post started also, it will need a rod plus some quad timbers to trim it off.

 

 

 

thanks,

 

MP

 

 

[Jim Lad]

That detail really sets her off, Mark.

 

John

[Omega1234]

Hi Mark

 

Beautiful workmanship and amazing details.

 

All in all, wow!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

 

[pete48]

Nice work Mark, Looks Great, Well done 

 

Best Regards, 

Pete 

[Mark Pearse]

many thanks, John Patrick & Pete, plus the visitors

 

The sampson post has been trimmed

 

the cockpit area horn cleats were made & installed, the rivets were replicated with small brass nails, & I made some washers from brass rod & drilled the centre out; the cockpit coaming ones are maybe on a bit too much of an angle

 

 

 

the rudder & tiller are underway, roughed up, & shaped as below

 

 

 

 

thanks, MP

 

 

[michael mott]

Mark she is looking very nice, your workmanship is reflected in the lovely clean lines and finishes. I like the sculptural shape of the rudder.

 

Michael

[Omega1234]

Hi Mark

 

Beautful work as always!  

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[Mark Pearse]

 

Hi everyone

 

it's been a long break from the model, but been consoling myself plenty of this anyway:

 

I'm starting on the metalwork details & previous efforts showed that I really to need to plan so that the pieces can be held, they are really small & I'm not used to that. So, I'm trying to make sure I ca hold them in some way. I've started on the top rudder gudgeon & pintle assembly, below is the gudgeon started. My method is v-cuts in the brass bar & then fold & solder it. The gudgeon will have a hidden rod into the transom for fixing. Below is the parts folded & the rear pin fitted.

 

Below is after brazing & shaping.

 

 

thanks, Mark

[michael mott]

Nice solution Mark. It is always great to see the different ways to accomplish the production of small items. Did you drill the holes before folding and soldering while flat or after the soldering?

 

Michael 

[Jim Lad]

A nice bit of blacksmithing there, Mark.  I love the photo of the gaff riggers racing!

 

John

[Mark Pearse]

thanks all. Hi John, yes I love looking at photos of gaff rigged boats also.

 

Hi Michael, I drilled the holes after brazing - to be sure that a pin will be able to slide through both holes smoothly. I sized the gap between the tangs to match the standard brass size of 1/16th", so that I could clamp a small piece of that size between the tangs when brazing & then drilling. The other part of the assembly, that goes onto the rudder & fits into this part (name?), will be from 1/32nd" flat bar so there's also a small amount of play - as there would be in real life. My metalwork equipment is pretty low-tech, I used one of those small one-hand drill holders for the holes because of the risks of using a standard hand held electric drill being too powerful. Also, I could adjust the location of the drill in the initial stages a small amount, get it more centred by angling it until the hole reached its full size & was then set in location. 

 

Mark

[Mark Pearse]

The gudgeon & pintle are now done, the first metalwork component is made & it feels good. I made the pin by brazing a cap onto a piece of rod. I predrilled into some flat bar to make it easier to braze them together.

 

The single drilled tab that will go into the rudder blade, plus the pieces for the pin.

 

Partly brazed, but it needed a bit more solder.

The pieces. I sanded the flat bar round & also thinner to keep it in proportion.

 

Done.

 

Edited September 3, 2017 by Mark Pearse
typo, damn spellcheck

[Mirabell61]

A beautiful build Mark,

 

that view from aft on the rudder is very impressive  

 

Nils

[Mark Pearse]

the rudder gudgeon & pintle are now fitted & the rudder is painted, the fitting looks to be in scale

The rudder curves are nice, unfortunately a phone camera lens seems to distort the shape of the hull - but you get the idea

 

 

The next metalwork part is the boom gooseneck. I bent a piece of brass flat bar (about 1.25mm x 4mm) around some wood of the right diameter, cut & brazed it. This is the band that will go around the mast. You can see that it's not exactly round, but I don't think that will show when you can't see the hole, when it's on the mast.

 

like this

 

Flange, grooved one side to help hold the next part, the tube

 

weighted to hold it during brazing, the tube didn't initially want to take the solder...

 

& the result: the next part is the pin, then the part that fits on to the forward end of the boom

 

until next time,

 

MP

 

 

Edited October 17, 2017 by Mark Pearse

[KeithAug]

lovely work.

[cog]

Mark,

Do you use solid silver solder? I had some good results with silver soldering paste, even with very thin materials which would burn if I used the solid solder wire

[Bedford]

Mark, I just use 60/40 resin cored solder or if you want a bit more strength you can use 40/60 but it has a higher meting point, I think 240 degC as opposed to 180.

 

I'd imagine you had problems getting it to take to the ring because it is heavier and takes longer to heat up. The metal heat sink (clamp) won't help either.

 

I'd use a small gas torch and heat it up focusing more on the ring than the rest then pull the flame away and touch the solder to the job to see if it melts and apply heat to the opposite side to draw the solder through. Always have the brass very clean and never touch flame and solder at the same time as the flux burns and nothing will stick.

[Jim Lad]

I've been away for a while visiting the in-laws, Mark.  Love the latest photos of the model - beautiful work.

 

John

[Mark Pearse]

thanks all

 

Hi Carl, yes I do use silver solder. The process is new to me, but after some research - including asking advice in these forums - I got a small butane torch plus silver solder. Is your question related to getting the solder into a more difficult joint, like the tube to flange above? You can see that my efforts to get it into the joint gave me an excess on the other joint. What ended up working was having the torch flame from one side & touching the joint with the wire from the other side. However, I'm interested if you think that silver solder paste will make it more accurate.

 

Hi Bedford, it was more the angle that gave trouble - & of course my inexperience. I'd put the piece of solder wire towards the joint & when it went into the flame it melted & didn't get there. Only when I'd heated from one side & added the solder from the other did it work, & easily too. Lesson learned.

 

Hi John, Keith, thanks & best wishes

 

 

[cog]

Quite so Mark. I had a problem getting the solder at the right spot, and solder paste you can put at the right spot before you apply the torch. In your case I could do both joins at the same time, since you heat the parts anyway.

 

When you use the solder wire, you should heat the join from one side and apply the solder from the other. It should flow into the join, but I often burned more of the solder with those kind of joins than had it flow in the join, hence the paste, altough it looks more like a rather grainy liquid.

 

Cheers

 

P.s. Love the build, have been following for a long time

Edited October 18, 2017 by cog

[Mark Pearse]

A small update, but an interesting one for me. The gooseneck pin:

 

The 1:12 pin shown alongside a real gooseneck pin. What's striking is the difference seems much more than 12x; & then it dawned on me that 1:12 is really just one way of defining it. The linear scale is 1:12, but the volumetric scale is 1:1,728; when you see the pins together you see the volumetric scale rather than the linear scale. It's a dramatic picture anyway.

 

 

 

[Mark Pearse]

I made the boom end fitting of the gooseneck, it will need some small lateral holes for the boom fixings. The process I used was:

 

some flat bar was bent around a shape of a suitable width

 

some other pieces cut, ends shaped & held for brazing

 

finished

 

 

 

 

[cog]

Looks marvelous, Mark. Did you use wire or paste to solder?