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28' Ranger-type Yacht by Mark Pearse - FINISHED - 1:12


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thank you Patrick, & I agree that the designer had an artistic eye - 

 

The spray boards are on (not sure if they have a proper name), they channel spray across the deck & help stop it going down the companionway hatch, & a spray dodger would clip off to it. The toe rails will possibly be next.

 

Also, temporary portholes / scuttles, done with paper to check position & size.

 

thanks

 

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I've seen one of these under sail on Sydney Harbour and they are just beautiful, they make it look so easy compared to the newer boats too. This is just magnificent!

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Mark you are doing a superb job she really looks like a fine craft.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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thank you

 

As a comparison, this shows the most similar yacht, Maluka, fully powered up just after the start of last Sydney Hobart, sporting an immaculate sails set beautifully.....drool. You can see the canvas spray dodger.

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  • 1 month later...

A bit more....the toe rails are done & installed & I'm making the 6 horn cleats that sit around the cockpit area. The toe rails seemed especially fragile & gave me some grief. The Queensland Maple generally seems good to work with, but 1.5 x 2.5mm seems to be beyond it, just seemed to break at the slightest touch.

 

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Sampson post started also, it will need a rod plus some quad timbers to trim it off.

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thanks,

 

MP

 

 

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Nice work Mark, Looks Great, Well done 

 

Best Regards, 

Pete 

"may your sails be full of wind and the sun on your back"
 
Current Builds :

 

 

 

 

 Future Builds :
 

N.G Herreshoff 12 1/2 Scratch Build 3/4" = 1' - 0" Scale

 

Completed Builds :

 

Volvo 65 Farr Yacht Design

Herreshoff Alerion

Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14

Volvo Open 70

 

 Member : 

 

The Herreshoff Registry                                  Montgomery Sailboat Owners Group       Peter Kunst Sailboat Models 
http://www.herreshoffregistry.org/                       http://www.msog.org/                      http://www.facebook.com/Peter-Kunst-Sailboat-Models-1524464774524480/ 

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  • 5 weeks later...

many thanks, John Patrick & Pete, plus the visitors

 

The sampson post has been trimmed

01.JPG.3d2c609cf4073c6364c7e893cae6ec27.JPG

 

the cockpit area horn cleats were made & installed, the rivets were replicated with small brass nails, & I made some washers from brass rod & drilled the centre out; the cockpit coaming ones are maybe on a bit too much of an angle

 

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the rudder & tiller are underway, roughed up, & shaped as below

 

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thanks, MP

 

 

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Mark she is looking very nice, your workmanship is reflected in the lovely clean lines and finishes. I like the sculptural shape of the rudder.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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  • 3 months later...

 

Hi everyone

 

it's been a long break from the model, but been consoling myself plenty of this anyway:

ON1298_109.thumb.jpeg.2f706127e33452b8992d607b4b25d123.jpeg

 

I'm starting on the metalwork details & previous efforts showed that I really to need to plan so that the pieces can be held, they are really small & I'm not used to that. So, I'm trying to make sure I ca hold them in some way. I've started on the top rudder gudgeon & pintle assembly, below is the gudgeon started. My method is v-cuts in the brass bar & then fold & solder it. The gudgeon will have a hidden rod into the transom for fixing. Below is the parts folded & the rear pin fitted.

 

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Below is after brazing & shaping.

 

IMG_8809.thumb.JPG.6a2cdcafb3545ce9cf77cc49e7bcc59e.JPG

 

thanks, Mark

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Nice solution Mark. It is always great to see the different ways to accomplish the production of small items. Did you drill the holes before folding and soldering while flat or after the soldering?

 

Michael 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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thanks all. Hi John, yes I love looking at photos of gaff rigged boats also.

 

Hi Michael, I drilled the holes after brazing - to be sure that a pin will be able to slide through both holes smoothly. I sized the gap between the tangs to match the standard brass size of 1/16th", so that I could clamp a small piece of that size between the tangs when brazing & then drilling. The other part of the assembly, that goes onto the rudder & fits into this part (name?), will be from 1/32nd" flat bar so there's also a small amount of play - as there would be in real life. My metalwork equipment is pretty low-tech, I used one of those small one-hand drill holders for the holes because of the risks of using a standard hand held electric drill being too powerful. Also, I could adjust the location of the drill in the initial stages a small amount, get it more centred by angling it until the hole reached its full size & was then set in location. 

 

Mark

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  • 2 weeks later...

The gudgeon & pintle are now done, the first metalwork component is made & it feels good. I made the pin by brazing a cap onto a piece of rod. I predrilled into some flat bar to make it easier to braze them together.

 

The single drilled tab that will go into the rudder blade, plus the pieces for the pin.

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Partly brazed, but it needed a bit more solder.

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The pieces. I sanded the flat bar round & also thinner to keep it in proportion.

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Done.

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Edited by Mark Pearse
typo, damn spellcheck
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A beautiful build Mark,

 

that view from aft on the rudder is very impressive  :)

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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  • 1 month later...

the rudder gudgeon & pintle are now fitted & the rudder is painted, the fitting looks to be in scale

IMG_9057.thumb.JPG.1f0f1675312a61a36e52a70ea7540293.JPG

The rudder curves are nice, unfortunately a phone camera lens seems to distort the shape of the hull - but you get the idea

 

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The next metalwork part is the boom gooseneck. I bent a piece of brass flat bar (about 1.25mm x 4mm) around some wood of the right diameter, cut & brazed it. This is the band that will go around the mast. You can see that it's not exactly round, but I don't think that will show when you can't see the hole, when it's on the mast.

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like this

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Flange, grooved one side to help hold the next part, the tubeIMG_9069.thumb.JPG.32a1f781095405deab833e6478ab98e0.JPG

 

weighted to hold it during brazing, the tube didn't initially want to take the solder...

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& the result: the next part is the pin, then the part that fits on to the forward end of the boom

IMG_9075.thumb.JPG.bebe169ccbd4e8e427a71f855303cf19.JPG

 

until next time,

 

MP

 

 

Edited by Mark Pearse
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lovely work.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Mark,

Do you use solid silver solder? I had some good results with silver soldering paste, even with very thin materials which would burn if I used the solid solder wire

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Mark, I just use 60/40 resin cored solder or if you want a bit more strength you can use 40/60 but it has a higher meting point, I think 240 degC as opposed to 180.

 

I'd imagine you had problems getting it to take to the ring because it is heavier and takes longer to heat up. The metal heat sink (clamp) won't help either.

 

I'd use a small gas torch and heat it up focusing more on the ring than the rest then pull the flame away and touch the solder to the job to see if it melts and apply heat to the opposite side to draw the solder through. Always have the brass very clean and never touch flame and solder at the same time as the flux burns and nothing will stick.

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thanks all

 

Hi Carl, yes I do use silver solder. The process is new to me, but after some research - including asking advice in these forums - I got a small butane torch plus silver solder. Is your question related to getting the solder into a more difficult joint, like the tube to flange above? You can see that my efforts to get it into the joint gave me an excess on the other joint. What ended up working was having the torch flame from one side & touching the joint with the wire from the other side. However, I'm interested if you think that silver solder paste will make it more accurate.

 

Hi Bedford, it was more the angle that gave trouble - & of course my inexperience. I'd put the piece of solder wire towards the joint & when it went into the flame it melted & didn't get there. Only when I'd heated from one side & added the solder from the other did it work, & easily too. Lesson learned.

 

Hi John, Keith, thanks & best wishes

 

 

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Quite so Mark. I had a problem getting the solder at the right spot, and solder paste you can put at the right spot before you apply the torch. In your case I could do both joins at the same time, since you heat the parts anyway.

 

When you use the solder wire, you should heat the join from one side and apply the solder from the other. It should flow into the join, but I often burned more of the solder with those kind of joins than had it flow in the join, hence the paste, altough it looks more like a rather grainy liquid.

 

Cheers

 

P.s. Love the build, have been following for a long time

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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A small update, but an interesting one for me. The gooseneck pin:

IMG_9078.thumb.JPG.4a2a8274508dc30cf273d7b6d5f2c53d.JPG

 

The 1:12 pin shown alongside a real gooseneck pin. What's striking is the difference seems much more than 12x; & then it dawned on me that 1:12 is really just one way of defining it. The linear scale is 1:12, but the volumetric scale is 1:1,728; when you see the pins together you see the volumetric scale rather than the linear scale. It's a dramatic picture anyway.

IMG_9079.thumb.JPG.a87f6dbe1a7f8e24e11462ab197d585e.JPG

 

 

 

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I made the boom end fitting of the gooseneck, it will need some small lateral holes for the boom fixings. The process I used was:

 

some flat bar was bent around a shape of a suitable width

IMG_9082.thumb.JPG.2a16cff0fdaaefb8d9ba4d945ce79e30.JPG

 

some other pieces cut, ends shaped & held for brazing

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finished

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