US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship

[ASAT]

Ron, I have an Onieda kit that I abandoned several years ago. I bought the Pau Marfim framing wood and damn that is some hard wood.... I broke the stem off during interior sanding and despite several attempts at trying to fair the square frames with various sanding devices I gave up trying to get it faired.  When I got close there were several frames that I had to cut the spacers and re - position. I just got frustrated with the lack of experience and the holes in the Lumberyard instructions. At the time Elia was building his and tried to encourage me but I just felt like it was over my head...   I have been reading your log and you have given me new hope, this log is light years ahead of the Lumberyard instructions and the level of detail that you have gone to is making me think that I might be able to resurrect the effort plus I have a few more years of experience under my belt. I only have the square frames attached to the keel so far, would you recommend a framing jig to position the cants and half's or do you think a gantry type framing board would be effective for this build? I really think some sort of jig or a more accurate way of framing this should be the norm.  I haven't decided if I want to fully plank one side, I originally was not going to but after seeing Elia's and your builds - I am re thinking that decision. I have not incorporated a rabbit but the stem is still separated so it may not be too hard to incorporate. Keep up the great posts - your build is inspirational and encouraging - Thank you for the thoroughness of your log - success and failures and how to persevere......  

 

Lou

[shipmodel]

Hi Ron -

 

OK, I set up an album in the completed scratch-built forum under the title "Oneida (1809) US brig of war".  I hope the photos are useful.  Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Continued success with your work.

 

Dan

[rlb]

Thanks, Ben, Sam, Pygothian, glad to have you aboard!

 

Dan, thanks for your photos, they are useful!

 

Lou, sorry to hear you reached a standstill with your Oneida.   There is, indeed, a lot of sanding and fairing necessary.   If you resurrect the build (which would be great!) I do recommend a jig for the bow and stern framing.  You need something that helps you locate the outline (not a nautical term, but I can't think of what the proper language would be) of the frames, not just making sure they are vertically plumb.  Either a gantry and framing board, or a fixed, "elevated" jig should work.  I had problems with both the bow and the stern because I didn't use one of these methods.

 

The bow and stern half and cant frames needed even more sanding than the full frames, so just be prepared for the effort!   It is worth it.

 

Ron

Edited November 27, 2013 by rlb

[rlb]

Today, I did a lot of brass work, and soldering, in working on the pumps.

 

My basis-of-design is from Charles G. Davis in "The Built-up-Ship Model"--

 

 

 

Here are most of the pieces needed, various diameters of brass tubing, rod, and bar stock-- 

 

 

 

First I soldered some bent rod to scores cut in the barrel of the upper valve pieces--

 

 

 

These were then filed back to the diameter of the tubing--

 

 

 

So that the valve would slide into the pump chamber--

 

 

 

Loops were made at the end of lengths of brass rod, for the plunger pieces--

 

 

 

Out of bar stock, the rocker arm was rough cut, and filed--

 

 

 

Here are the pieces, just about all assembled--

 

 

 

The "sockets" on the ends of the rocker arm are some square tube that I hammered down a little to make it rectangular, and then soldered to the rocker arm.

 

 

After determining the correct length of the plunger rods, I soldered u-shaped attachments.  I had to do this three times before I got a solder joint that held--

 

 

 

I also had to redo the flange pieces for the tubes.  I ended up hammering down a ring cut from a larger size tube, and then, since it wasn't perfectly round after the hammering, I filed it inside and out so it would fit the tube and be round--it looks much better than what I had before--

 

 

 

 

Next will be blackening and assembling the pumps.

 

 

 

Ron

Edited November 24, 2013 by rlb

[src]

Ron, 

I love tall he all the little details your adding in. Curious, wouldnt there have been a leather "washer" involved also? I dont see one in the drawing you posted.

Sam

edit - I seriously seen to proof read my posts better..

Edited November 24, 2013 by src

[rlb]

Thanks, everyone for all the "likes" and always for comments, as well.

 

Sam, I think there would be a leather "flap" for the upper valve, and as well for the lower valve, which isn't indicated at all.  This pump (and the one Davis illustrated in his book) isn't meant to show all the pieces necessary for it's operation.  Only the parts that can potentially be seen are drawn, and modeled.  The stirrup of the upper valve, where it is held by the plunger rod, is barely visible, but nothing else within the tube is.  

 

Ron

Edited November 24, 2013 by rlb

[rlb]

Continuing with the pumps--

 

Here are the pieces blackened--

 

 

 

I didn't have particularly good luck on this batch, though I followed my usual procedure:  wash the pieces in soap, and then rinse well, use about an 1:8 solution of Blacken-it and water,  wait a while!

 

I did the rocker arm and one of the pump tubes twice, but still some "light" areas.

 

 

Two holes were bored in the deck (and lower deck on the starboard side)--

 

 

 

To the right you can see a mark, and two pin starter holes where I nearly drilled!!   That would have been a pain to fix.  I think I can take care of the small holes by filling them with sawdust paste so they don't show.

 

 

Here are the pieces dry fit--

 

 

 

 

And here they are glued--

 

 

 

The only difference in appearance between the dry fit photos and these, is the small wire pins to hold the plunger rods to the rocker arm.   I still need to trim those, and then I will glue the rocker arm in this horizontal position.   The valve stirrups are too fragile (they've been filed dangerously thin to make sure the valves slide in the tube) to take a chance on them breaking if the pump is "worked".

 

 

 

 

I will probably make small washers for the main pin in the rocker arm pivot and support stanchion--it looks like it needs them.   I won't do that on the small pins though, they'll just need a spot of glue so they don't fall out.

 

 

One more overall photo--

 

 

 

Ron

Edited November 24, 2013 by rlb

[russ]

Nice looking pumps. Lot's of good metal work.  

 

Russ

[rafine]

The pumps look great.

 

Bob

[JPett]

Amazing

[Jim Lad]

Delightful pumps, mate!

 

John

[mtaylor]

Ron,

 

Nicely done on the pumps.  And everything is so clean and crisp.   You're raising bar...

[michael20]

Spectacular work and great detail, I will be looking foreward to future updates.

 

Happy Modeling,

Martin G.

[j21896]

The pumps look fantastic Ron!  Great craftsmanship!

 

Robert

[rlb]

Thanks, all, for your comments and "likes:.

 

I am into quiet-mode research during the week (as opposed to beast-mode modeling on the weekend).

 

Up to now, I've spent untold hours staring at belaying plans and rigging details, without it really sinking in.   I have to make a detailed belaying plan for Oneida before I finish my bulwark pinrails, and mast pinrails/fiferails.  It will be largely based on Chuck Passaro's Syren drawings, with some additional reference to Petersson's  and Lees' books to fill in some info, for my Oneida's variation.  I'm really walking through each piece of rigging (standing and running) to figure out where it all goes, and whether I want/need (at least on some of the running rigging) to include it.  It's a big effort.

 

In addition to that, I'm researching the ship's boats.   Chapelle lists a 32 foot launch and 20 foot boat, with a 16 foot stern boat added in 1813.   I've decided that I don't really want to model the stern boat, though I am using the 1813 gun armament with the two six pounder long guns in the bow--possible inconsistency there. 

 

A thirty-two foot launch (which seems huge compared to the standards I've been looking at) would hardly even fit between the masts; if Oneida really had one that size it must have been towed behind--so I don't need to model that.

 

What I will make is a 20 foot cutter (or gig?) to be stowed on the deck between the masts.  

 

Ron

Edited November 26, 2013 by rlb

[Blue Ensign]

Love that last series of photo's Ron, what a beautiful model she is.

 

B.E.

[Elmer Cornish]

Ron   i hope i can live up to your skills.. beautiful work on the pumps,, i dont know much about , pumps , but it looks like they will actually  will pump water out the bilgebays  awsome !!!!

[src]

Beyond great Ron, very impressive.

Sam

[rlb]

Today's project was the topmast sheet bitts.

 

Here are the basic pieces for both the fore mast (above) and the main mast (below).  Some square posts, pin rails, and the as yet unfinished mast partners

 

 

 

I began working on the fore mast bitts.  These are the simpler of the two, with only one pin rail, athwart the posts.  First I cut the notch for the pin rail--

 

 

 

And chiseled it out--

 

 

 

Here are the two posts laid on the deck.   The knees for the riding bitts need to be notched to receive the posts, and the mast partner piece will also be notched out in the corners--

 

 

 

One post is dry fit--

 

 

 

Here are the two posts and the pin rail dry fit--still a lot of work to do--

 

 

 

A sheave needs to be put into each post.   Here are the posts notched for the sheaves, which are stained pieces cut from a dowel--

 

 

 

After the sheaves are glued in, a filler piece is glued, these will be sanded down flush--

 

 

 

After sanding down the filler pieces, adding a cleat to each side, and some further chamfering and shaping, here are the fore topmast sheet bitts--

 

 

 

And dry fit on the model--

 

 

 

 

 

Ron

Edited November 28, 2013 by rlb

[Elia]

Ron,

 

That is such nice clean detailing. Well done.

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

[rlb]

Continuing on with the topmast sheet bitts--

 

The main pieces are similar to the fore mast sheet bitts, but for the main mast there are some extra pin rails and posts.

 

First, the partners, and the decking are notched for the bitt posts--

 

 

 

These are dry fit--

 

 

 

The main posts, aft posts, and pin rails are shaped and partially glued.  Pins are epoxied into the ends of the side rail sub-assemblies for strength, and to make gluing easier--

 

 

 

Holes are marked and drilled in the deck for the aft posts--

 

 

 

More dry fitting--

 

 

 

Measuring for fitting the aft pin rail--

 

 

 

The aft rail is cut and glued to the side rail sub-assemblies--

 

 

 

More dry fitting--

 

 

 

 

I'm not happy with the aft pin rail.   It looks a little flimsy.  I remove it adjust the notches, and re-glue it--

 

 

 

 

This is better, but I'm not sure it's good yet.  I was going for something similar in basic concept to the mast rails on the Brig Niagara replica, where the side and aft rails are at different heights, but I'm not sure I like this.   I think I will remove the aft rail, trim it, and the side rails, and attach it so that all three are at the same height.  

 

The sheet bitt posts also need the side cleats made and attached (as on the fore mast sheet bitts), but those and the rail adjustments will have to wait for tomorrow.

 

 

Ron

Edited November 29, 2013 by rlb

[russ]

Ron:

That looks good, but please consider doweling those pin rails in place to the atanchions. That will add a lot of strength relative to simply gluing them in place.

 

Russ

[rlb]

Hi Russ,

 

I know doweling those pin rails is a good idea, but it's very small and three pieces coming together at one place.  I'm afraid to drill into the wood in two directions at that aft corner where the two pin rails come together.  I put some generous fillets of glue underneath, where it won't be visible.  Perhaps before I glue rail sub-assembly onto the topsheet bits (this joint does have epoxied pins) I will drill and put some treenail dowels into those corners.

 

Ron

[rlb]

Finishing up the pin rails:

 

 

Here's how I revised them, so they continue around the aft post at the same height.  

 

 

 

Moving on to the mast partners, I drew an octagon with at the correct size of my masts--

 

 

 

And milled the center out, a little smaller than the drawn octagon.  Notice the wood is at an angle to account for the mast rake--

 

 

 

I filed the corners of the octagon a little better, then fit the partners on the deck.   The octagons will need to be enlarged to fit the actual masts when they are made--

 

 

 

 

The aft hatch arrangement:

 

 

I finally settled on what to do with these last hatches.  It's changed from my initial idea, and I needed to do some surgery to the framing to accommodate a companionway in the second opening--

 

 

 

I glued in a ladder I had made a long time ago--

 

 

 

Some pieces cut for the companionway sides--

 

 

 

The pieces that make up the sides were glued together, and when set they were sanded flush, trimmed to the right size, and glued into a "box"--

 

 

 

Just aft of the companionway, on what's left of the coaming, I'll build a binnacle.

 

The opening forward of the companionway will be a skylight.  Here is the frame test fit--

 

 

 

And then both test fit together--

 

 

 

Ron

Edited November 29, 2013 by rlb

[Adrieke]

beautiful and clean work

[Elia]

Ron,

 

So very nice. Those pin rails, the mast pads, and that aft skylight and companionway are excellent. Very crisp. I like that aft companionway addition and also the skylight configuration. I recall mulling that over for some time before picking a layout.

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

[rlb]

Thanks, Elia,

 

Yes, I too spent some time thinking about what should go aft.

 

No way to know if what I've done is accurate for Oneida, but I can make an argument for it based on what I've seen of other brig models.  If nothing else, the variety of what I've decided to show gives me some good modeling experience.

 

Ron

[rlb]

Continuing with the aft features:

 

I can't believe it's taken me all day for this progress, but here's what I've done.  (I often suffer from a need make progress,   but I must say--I did feel a sense of relaxation doing a lot this work--simply because it took so long, and I had to forget about actually finishing anything!)_

 

After making the top pieces of the companionway, check to make sure the capstan bars (in this photo a trimmed toothpick) will clear the companionway in it's open configuration--

 

 

 

Cut the pieces for the skylight "sashes".   A large part of why this takes me so long, is that I don't have milled wood the right size.   All of these pieces are sanded down by hand from larger stock--

 

 

 

Drill holes for the brass or iron (haven't decided yet) bars in these pieces.  Easier to do them in double sections before cutting them to their individual pieces--

 

 

 

Cutting the doubled pieces apart and filing the ends--

 

 

 

These are then glued on to the skylight sashes--

 

 

 

A number of hinges are made, out of brass sheet and wire, and then blackened, for the companionway, and the skylight--

 

 

 

Here's where I'm at.   The upper part of the companionway is done.   The doors have hinges glued to them.  The skylight sashes need some "glass" and their hinges, and then I'll glue the sashes onto the frame, and put the rods in--

 

 

 

 

Ron

Edited November 30, 2013 by rlb

[WackoWolf]

Looking real nice, nice detail. Keep the pictures coming.

[russ]

Ron:

The skylight really looks great. I wish I had had that kind of relaxing time today. It looks like you had a lot of fun. Well done.

 

Russ