USS Ranger by mattsayers148 - FINISHED - Corel SM55 - 1:64 - 4th build, 2nd build log

[Canute]

Matt, very nice Coehorn mortars. And clever employment usage.

 

Can't wait to see your next design(s).

[thomaslambo]

Beautifully precise and very creative work on the mortars    

[mrangus]

Well thought out and precisely done - looks great!

[CaptainSteve]

Matt !! That's some stunning work that you and the boys have done with fitting the guns. The ropes for the swivel turret really bring it all to life.

[riverboat]

Hi Matt...I've been looking in on your build for awhile now, but really have'nt commented. I'd just like to say that I admire your work and really enjoy the progress you have made with your build. Keep up the good work!!

 

Frank

[mattsayers148]

George, Mark, Ken, Boyd, Robb, CaptainSteve, Frank, thank you guys for the words of encouragement. Also, thank to everyone for pounding the like button.

 

So I'm a bit curious about what size the kit supplied carronade is supposed to be. I've read here and a few other places that this model, as well as some similar cutters(like the Alert) are designed to hold a 32 pounder. The first one I made was the same size as the kit supplied carronade. This new one is scaled to the dimensions of a 32 pdr.

So, what size carronade was used for these kits? I'm not sure if this is a result of the 1:64/1:50 debacle that's been so well addressed by others in this forum.

 

Either way, the new carronade will take its place on the raised stern deck. Tiny found some really nice watch scraps, so he was charged with making the elevation screw. The carronade was made in similar fashion to the other cannons. Small brass tubing soldered together, then turned with dremel flex shaft in one hand and a file in the other. Now it's off to build a new pivoting slide carriage.

[GLakie]

Some good machining work Matt! Look forward to what you and the boyz will come up with next!  

[Canute]

Matt, checking dimensions in "Arming the Fleet" by Tucker, the 32lb. carronade length was 4' 0.5" with a bore of 6.25 ". The book has a table of long guns and carronades from about 1810.

 

How long is that brass jewel you're holding?

[mattsayers148]

Ken, the new carronade length is 20.43mm @1:64 making it 51.12inches. To reach the 4'.5" I'd have to take off .05inches. The bore is .269inches making real life 6.46inches.

 

So the new carronade is just a hair too big(.05inchch too long). That being said, the new one is spot on. The old one scales out to about 30inches long, way off for a 32 pounder.

[mattsayers148]

I was able to do a bit more this week on the carronade. Most of the pivoting slides that I've seen had individual sideways wheels attached to a wood crossmember. I decided to make these in one piece for easier handling.

It worked out well once the wheels were attached to the carriage.

 

After the wheels were attached, the slide and carriage were joined together. The leg on the slide was put through the slot in the carriage and cut flush to the underside. A hole was grilled through the leg and a pin with a thin brass washer affixed to keep the two together. After that all brass pieces were blackened and given the wire wheel aged treatment.

A small block was attached to the deck to receive the pivotal pin.

Next is making the blocks and tackle to attach the slide to the deck. Unfortunately the cap rail on the backside it slightly in the way if the carronade were fired at sea level. My guess is that most shots would be elevated for distance, so the cap rail may be ok where it is. If not, it'll need to be modified.

[GLakie]

More amazing work in miniature Matt!  Beautiful! 

[Ian B]

Regardless of true scale debate, the new barrel looks so right and menacing in the bow -- loving the build so far Matt..

[Bobstrake]

You would think twice before attempting to board this vessel, oh yeah.

Edited August 17, 2015 by Bobstrake

[mtaylor]

Looks good, Matt.   I think you're ok.. however, at an elevation, I'd be a bit worried about the blast and ball taking off the rails on the stern.

[mattsayers148]

Thanks George, Ian B, Bob, Mark and those who pound that like button.

 

Mark, I was thinking the same. While I'm milling away at my 3mm blocks, I'll pass it off to Harry and see what happens. By now the Nutz and Bawlz Clans are getting fidgety. They make be looking for something to destroy, so I need to channel that rage into something productive!

[GLakie]

 

They make be looking for something to destroy, so I need to channel that rage into something productive!

Have 'em give me a call Matt! I might have a couple of suggestions for 'em.   

[dgbot]

Matt I would like to know why you chose not to use P,V,A,,glue like Titebond or Elmers,

David B

[mattsayers148]

Hey David, do you mean for the grapeshot?

[dgbot]

Gorilla Glue tends to foam and I never used it for planking.

David B

[mattsayers148]

Oh, I know what you mean. Not sure if the formula changed but I remember the horrible foam. The kind I use says 'no foam'. I like the tight bond for larger items or when I'm installing wood floors. Great hold but it seems to take a while to dry.

 

When I'm laminating pieces for various ship items I glue and clamp, and can usually remove the clamps and work the piece within minutes(5 or so).

Since clean up is water, I really try to minimize water as much as possible. So if I pay close attention to how it's drying, I can use the tip of my blade to carefully lift excess off. I think you can get a little bottle and try it out, just make sure it says no foam. It also dries really clear, not milky or yellow. Yeah the foaming kind I don't think would work well when planking. Hope that makes sense.

[mattsayers148]

I switched gears a bit this week and worked on the masts. I used the laminate method again to make the masts, glueing 0,5mm thin strip together until the desired diameter was attained.

 

Turning the mast was quite interesting since they were over 12inches long, the top masts were quick and easy though.

 

I tossed the metal cross tree assembly and used light walnut stock instead. Cross halving joints were notched to join the trestle trees to the cross trees.

 

After that the cheeks, the caps and the bolsters were fitted and glued in place. The top masts and caps were not glued yet so they can be removed for rigging.

[Canute]

Well done, Matt. The masts look good.

[mrangus]

Looks great Matt, very authentic. The wood looks old and weathered. I like the caps - very nicely done. Rigging will be a breeze for you....

[thomaslambo]

Beautiful work Matt 

[GLakie]

The masts look great Matt!  It won't be too long now before the rigging commences.   

[mtaylor]

Nice work on the masts, Matt.

[mattsayers148]

Thanks Ken, Robb, Boyd, George, Mark and to everyone for the likes and words of encouragement, they are great encouragement to me.

 

I pulled off from the carronade setup to let some ideas bounce around in my head. I took a saw to the rail in front of the carronade because it would get blown away the first time it's fired. So Harry is off to see about a nice solution while Tiny and I are working on the masts, bowsprit and such, hoping to see the ship start to take form.

 

Oh Corel, why the vague instructions? So I've taken the liberty of changing some things in the attempt to acquire better info from other builds. So if you happen to see something from your build showing up on my build, please be flattered, not annoyed, at my plagiarism.

 

I, along with the Nutz and Bawlz Clans, welcome any and all thoughts that could be changed or added to. Pics with descriptions are the best, as the rabble I'm working with are fairly illiterate. (I'm not poking at the squirrels, last thing I need is a mutiny or a cutlass in the back!)

[Cathead]

So if you happen to see something from your build showing up on my build, please be flattered, not annoyed, at my plagiarism.

 

 

That works both ways, as this kit is my next build whenever I finish the Bertrand, and you can be danged sure I'll be revisiting this log.

[mattsayers148]

It been a few weeks since my last post, with the move and all. The rudder assembly is complete, the steering mechanism will follow shortly(pre-thanks to Robb).

 

I used light and dark walnut together to give it some contrast. The pintles and gudgeons were formed in the usual way with bent brass strips and brass tubing all soldered together.

 

I had mounted everything as removable until I got the steering mechanism lined up satisfactory. Once aligned, the pins were affixed and ground down.

 

Once things were secured and cleaned up a bit, I gave it the double blackening that gives it the antique look. Then it was wire wheeled to achieve the final look.

 

The topside steering assembly should be coming shortly...

[GLakie]

Outstanding Matt! Love the iron-work and contrast with wood-tones. 

 

Cheers