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  • Birthday 06/20/1955

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    Melbourne, Victoria
  • Interests
    Family, Fishing, Woodwork and Photography

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  1. Hi Charlie, what material was used? I had a model printed in 1:350 and it has amazing detail for its size. If I recall mine was printed with the Ultra Frosted stuff. cheers Pat
  2. Ship paintings

    Some more gems, thanks Jim. I note you depict HMAS Melbourne with the LWO2 radar update (LWO4 aerial); when were you aboard? I served in her also and paid her off. cheers Pat
  3. I have not seen one of that shape during my searches Charlie; I wish you luck. Have you considered making one? Seems like a bit of suitably sized brass tube cut cleanly at 45 degrees then soldered to form the 90-degree angle would make the main part. Simply find some conical shape in any material/medium, drill out and slide over the base - paint it black and hey presto cheers Pat
  4. Latest pieces off my drawing board

    Beautiful work Michael; they really 'pop' cheers Pat
  5. Ship paintings

    You have done a terrific job on all your paintings, Jim. I hope that does not sound condescending, rather it is intended to convey my pleasure in viewing your work. I especially like the Falklands poetry painting as somehow you have conveyed the bitter chill in the air in those climes. cheers Pat
  6. No problems; good luck cheers Pat
  7. Hi Snow, My preference is to attach the bottom deadeyes (closest to channels) as part of fitting the chain plates. Basically, I attach the deadeye off the ship as part of the total chainplate fixture. I then attach the bottom end of the chainplates and position each of these in the associated notch in the channels. Once positioned, I add the edge strip to the channels in a temporary way (no glue) locking the lower deadeyes in place while you get the rigging of the upper deadeyes sorted. Do not glue the outer edge strip in place until you are confident there will be no need to replace/refit a chain plate etc. (I learned the hard way as I snapped several chainplates at weak solder points when doing ratlin and other rigging tasks that put stress on them.). I fit the upper deadeyes to each shroud leg on the ship having made a jig (a search of this site will show a few different types of jigs) to ensure they will all be level. Once the upper deadeyes have been secured to the shrouds, I then lash each set in turn with their lanyards, ensuring even tension on each. It is best to loosely reeve each lanyard, then tighten each incrementally until you have sufficient tension on the shrouds and ensuring each of the deadeyes in the upper rows remain level. I only temporarily tie off the tails of the lanyards until well into the rigging. Once all are done and the ratlines etc completed I finally tie them off permanently so that should the inevitable 'accident' occur, you do not have to destroy the lanyard or the shroud in getting it off. I hope that helps you. cheers Pat
  8. Ship paintings

    What a fantastic portfolio of maritime and related art. You certainly have a talent for this. cheers Pat
  9. Ditto, unfamiliar with the two tube version. I have also stopped using these and find it better to use an old carpenter's hack/trick. Push the pin through a thin piece of card that is shaped to suit the job, and use a tack hammer - keeps the fingers out of the road and you have more control Sorry, that does not help you with the tool, but might be worth considering? cheers Pat
  10. Hi all, I have become a real fan of resistance soldering due to the control you have over it. I have been able to do some intricate work without heat sinks by placing the probes, and the solder, in the right place, The solder will draw towards the heat, and by using differing melting point solders, able to achieve this. The biggest issue with PE is that if you are not carefull you can blow through it very quickly with excessive heat. The pissdales below still need cleaning up but as you can see these are only 4.5mm and the two end pieces (triangular) and the tubes were soldered in without heatsinks. cheers Pat
  11. Looks like you are slowly getting comfortable in your new 'digs' Michael. Hopefully, not too long before you can return to the modelling desk? cheers Pat
  12. Hi Eberhard, thanks for your comments, and yep they come in various guises and brands. I have three different sizes with the larger ones used for shrouds and the like. Not sure of the brand name of mine but they were relatively cheap to acquire from the local electronics store - I think the smaller ones are used for testing circuit boards and the like. Sure are a lot cheaper on eBay :). cheers Pat
  13. Hi Mike, as per Jud and I tend to rig mine off the model first using the vertical (adjustable) part of my rigging station shown below. i adjust this to the right distance apart (just longer than needed), clip the hooks into the alligator clamps (with both block facing the same way - end on or side on) and rig it here before transferring to the ship. If two single blocks, start with the rigging line attached to the heel of the upper block, run to bottom block threading from front to back, up to the top block threading back to front then down to the bottom block. Cut the running end allowing enough to form several loops or coils after belaying. Use a micro clip (see other photo - available from electronics stores) to temp hold the running end to the other parts of the tackle lines. The trick is to ensure you do not twist this setup during transfer This station (rigging crab) is based on one designed by the late Hubert Sicard (Wooden Ship Modelling for Dummies). I hope that helps?
  14. Hi Jaager, among other tasks I have used one to: 1. as an upside down router for rounding/shaping edges and creating grooves in decorative pieces, 2. creating the blanks for gun carriages (individual slices taken off with saw to create carriage sides) 3. making parts (whelps etc) for capstans. 4. making/shaping the waterways. 5. milling small wood parts. There are many uses once you can think through the set ups; I suppose you could say only limited by your imagination and ability. cheers Pat
  15. Might be the old Audace Class Destroyers from back in the 1970's/80s? They were Guided Missile Anti-Air Warfare destroyers (using the SM-1 Missile system). looks like the old SPS40, and SPS52 radars I can see there. cheers Pat