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  • Birthday 06/20/1955

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    Melbourne, Victoria
  • Interests
    Family, Fishing, Woodwork and Photography

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  1. Bowsprit 'Steps' not Step

    Hi Pete, I have read a discussion in either Underhill (Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Transport), or Kipping (Rudimentary Treatise on Masting), about the shape of the bowsprit in which there is a discussion that some bowsprits had a flattened upper / topside and some had blocks (steps) to assist access along the bowsprit. These were supplemented by the use of manropes with the outboard end secured to the Cap and the inboard at two vertical stanchions at the head timbers/knightheads. I can't recall which at the moment and I am up to my ears in research for Victoria; but, i will have to return to rigging in coming months. If I come across the actual reference I will post the detail of where to find it.It is relevant for me also as HMCSS Victoria had the manropes (specified in the Contract and shown in lithographs), and in some visual evidence I have, may also have had the flattened topside of the bowsprit. cheers Pat
  2. Hi guys, I concur with Druxey's observation - I have read in an Ordnance Handbook, or 'official' publication about ordnance being manufactured back in the mid-1800s - just cannot recall the publication at the moment (may have been Douglas but would need to check). The author states that these barrel markings were only applied to naval style guns used in coastal defence. In this publication there is also some discussion about the use of Dispart and Tangent sights (introduced by Miller for naval guns) so may have been in relation to the fact that such marks were unnecessary given these sights (this my interpretation as there is no clear relationship implied nor discussed in the book). If the factory/ordnance authority publish such a statement it is good enough for me Even with such sights, the lock issue as Jud describes was the major problem. This lead to the introduction of the gunlocks at about the same time, or just a little later. cheers Pat
  3. Metal template maker

    Thanks Bob, I have used one for years also. I find it a very useful tool for many jobs, and there are plastic versions available also. The more needles in the stack/rack, the finer the detail of a contour that can be achieved. I use it to get the basic contour, then make a paper template, refine that and then make the final card template. Also great for checking symmetry as you say.
  4. Working fine now - just have to track that pesky gremlin down Thanks guys This is a very nice easy to read and crisp screen layout; only one minor issue, the Mark forum as read text is very hard to discern (see screen grab below). Thanks for the rapid updates to the themes, cheers Pat
  5. Hi Chuck and Jim, just tried the new one and it has some major faults, almost unusable at least on my PC (Win10 and Chrome - took a major effort just to escape from it back to an earlier theme. cheers
  6. Rather than start a new topic, and as this is somewhat related could I ask if the other themes will still be available? I understand the nuts and bolts people may still be working on updating them, but just checking? Please bring them back cheers Pat
  7. Some Endeavour Rigging Detail

    Thanks for taking the time to take those shots John, although too late for me I think some members will find these very useful. Very clear details. cheers Pat
  8. Roger, I simply use fabric dye from the grocery store (RIT brand in this case). Add some salt to it to make it colour fast - there is a mixing guide on the bottle. I use 2 part black to 1 part dark brown to get the darker colours. As Frankie advises, do this on lengths of scale rope off the spool. I put the dyed line in an old teatowel afterwards to absorb a lot of the excess moisture, then allow to dry draped over a rod with a fishing weight (swivel type) clipped to each end. Please note, Riga Hemp, in its true form is a pale greyish colour and was used for the running rigging. It got a little more greyish with exposure to salt etc. It is only the other natural rope fibres (sisal, manila and coir) that are more tan in colour. cheers Pat
  9. Great idea, especially as some of these types of tools/measurement devices are becoming so cheap. cheers Pat
  10. Happy birthday my friend!  hope you have a great day......

    Denis >Popeye<

  11. Hi folks, just to confuse the situation more the following is an extract from the Contract for the building of the HMCSS Victoria (for the Colony of Victoria, Australia) built 1855: "Wales, Sheerstrake and Topside. - Mahogany, thick 3 inches, to taper forward and aft to 2 inches." cheers Pat
  12. New member from North Sydney Australia

    Welcome aboard from just slightly further south cheers Pat
  13. Where did you get those small (6mm) blanks from in the USA please Eberhard? cheers Pat
  14. Adjustable height table.

    Very similar but the 'hand' raulic version cherers Pat
  15. Adjustable height table.

    Hi Ulises, I went a slightly different route and purchased an adjustable desk frame to which I added a desktop I already had. This particular frame was the heavy duty version as the desktop was large and heavy and I wanted to allow for a 1:48 build and build board. This frame also allows me to drive the table down a little bit (not much but about 6 inches) below standard desk height - for the reason to do exactly what you want to do. Unfortunately, due to the design I cannot tilt it I don't know where you would get one as I bought mine from a local office furniture provider (and not cheap due to the 'heavy duty' frame) but the package looks like this: Cheers Pat