• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower


  • Birthday 06/20/1955

Contact Methods

  • Skype

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
  • Interests
    Family, Fishing, Woodwork and Photography

Profile Fields

  • Full NRG Member?
    MSW Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,122 profile views
  1. Also try electronics store or suppliers. A brand by the name "Jensen" is provided along with caps, leur-locks etc and syringes which techs use for applying soldering pastes etc. Comes in a wide range of gauges and types. cheers Pat
  2. You can also get paste solder specific to copper I think - may also help. Try a jewellers supply store; AJS in Australia used to stock it. cheers Pat
  3. Great news Chuck. I am still on holiday in Canada, but will do a count of the numbers and sizes I need shortly after my return next month - standby for a largish order I have ye to decide whether these were used in the upper rigging also; are you familiar with practices in the 1850s? cheers Pat
  4. Great subject Eric, I'll tag along also. I love the level of detail and background you are providing. cheers Pat
  5. Hi Ron, that is a great story and I am sure your wife will appreciate the model as much as you. That was a real neat surprise for her. As to the futtock shrouds, I must admit I had some real fun there I made the futtock shrouds up individually off the model with a longer length than needed. By this I mean that I seized the hooks into place on a length of shroud line. I then hooked the futtock shroud onto the upper deadeye strap, wrapped (half hitched) the tail end of the shroud around the futtock spreader bar, pulled it taut (being careful not to pull the lower shrouds out of line in the vertical aspect) and seized the tail up to the closest shroud as close to the spreader as I could. I then dabbed a bit of diluted white glue and trimmed off the rag end after it was dry. BTW, my spreader bar was a length of stiff thin wire with a thread serving along its length - I simulated the leather caps on the end with a dab of leather colour paint. The real jobs had a stiff rope core I think. I found working (fitting the futtock shrouds) from aft to fwd best/easiest for me. I also did this before I did any of the ratlines. As too fat fingers - welcome to the club With the deadeye lanyards I found using much much longer lengths and doing a very loose weave initially, allowed me to get gingers in there without disturbing the other bits and bobs. I was then able to pull the lanyard taut and align the deadeyes using tweezers and a very fine pair of needle point plier. I hope that makes sense for you? cheers Pat
  6. Hi again, The wooden mouse form is about 4mm long and 3mm at max across - it had a slightly conical off axis shape if that makes sense? More like a ball/bead with one side drawn out a bit. I was able to turn these on my mini-lathe, but you could take a bead and add some putty, or even two-part epoxy to one side then shape it when dry, redrilling the hole if necessary on one side. cheers Pat
  7. Thanks for looking in and comments Eddie and ST7S Sorry don't know what name to use? The wooden mouse form was about 4mm long and to 3mm at max across - it had a slightly conical off axis shape if that makes sense? More like a ball/bead with one side drawn out a bit. I was able to turn these on my mini-lathe, but you could take a bead and add some putty, or even two-part epoxy to one side then shape it when dry, redrilling the hole if necessary on one side. cheers Pat
  8. Hi again Tom, I agree with LH, an English text option on the website, and the publication will help with sales I think (bigger audience :)) Will the plans be available on a CD (within the book/booklet) also? This is what many of the recent Seawatch publications offer. Our Government is starting a new tax on international internet purchases starting July - how they police it is another story - so paying VAT your end as well as an import tax (equivalent to VAT this end) may impact sales also. That said, Australia would be a very small market. Good luck Pat
  9. Nice setup Eddie, great use of space - you seem have thought the storage options through really well. cheers Pat
  10. Congratulations Tom, that is a lot of work you have completed. What sort of book format are you going to produce these in? cheers Pat
  11. Stunning - that sunlight effect is very effective. A walk through will be really something (oil lights flickering for lighting?) cheers Pat
  12. Christos, have a look at Chuck's Cheerful build; he shows a great technique. cheers Pat
  13. Hi Andrew and Wefalck, I am in the process of sorting the rigging of my 1855 built "Victoria" which has many elements of a three-mast schooner with Aberdeen clipper ship bow even though Barque rigged. Wefalck has been very helpful in sorting this for me. In a series of articles (The Rigging of Clipper Ships by E.A. McCann) in the early editions of the Mariner's Mirror, there is a drawing (Topgallant Rigging) that shows the mast top (lower) with two boom extensions aft like a flat V, each of which carries several piercings with rollers to accept the upper backstays (as sort of fairlead arrangement). I am assuming this was to keep them clear of working the gaffs for the trisails. That may help explain the arrangement shown in the first diagram? As to the squares, unless meant to show as a filler to define the wood of the mast proper, these could be as Wefalck has suggested. The diagrams I have show 3 or 4 iron bands around a circular Mast head for vessels in the mid 19th century; especially for steam/sail vessels. These bands were fastened at the rear with eyes protruding to accept various blocks or stays. At this stage, much of the rigging on the main mast was either chain or wire rope, again as Wefalck suggests) to protect the standing rigging from the funnel heat. The following diagrams are from Robert Kipping (1853-4) "Rudimentary Treatise on the Masting, Mast-Making and Rigging of Ships" which is out of copyright and available as an eBook (Google). cheers Pat
  14. Well I hope you don't think I am a "GOG"Eddie There are a few members here on MSW from SMSV, myself amongst them. Perhaps the best way to find out if the club is for you, is to attend a meeting as a guest. Unfortunately, I won't be at the next meeting as I will be travelling (In Canada :)) but I can let people know if you are attending. I think the guys are friendly enough and always helpful. I am currently running a series of workshops on rigging, you are most welcome to join in; these are additional to the formal club meetings. We also have some great club resources such as a library, plans, rope walk and of course, some very experienced modellers. cheers Pat
  15. A very nice trilogy of reference books for that era indeed Wayne; I would also suggest "Seamanship in the Age of Sail" by Harland to the mix. Harland described how the ships were sailed and operated - this gives some valuable insight to the rigging and presentation of models. cheers Pat