Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited



  • Birthday 06/20/1955

Contact Methods

  • Skype

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
  • Interests
    Family, Fishing, Woodwork and Photography

Profile Fields

  • Full NRG Member?
    MSW Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,602 profile views
  1. A very practical and useful jig, thanks for sharing cheers Pat
  2. Hi Neil, very early in my Endeavour build i followed a recommendation to paint the bottom of my hull with bitumen. I acquired a small can of the bitumen based undercar preserving compound and applied it as was. It looked great and really simulated the 'brown stuff' used on the hulls before white stuff really well. It dried reasonably well but as Druxey states not completely. Then along came summer and you can guess what happened, it MELTED and went all over the base etc. Lesson learned, I scraped it off then tried to remove the residue with turps etc but the liquid part of the solution had really penetrated the wood. the end result was an unexpected really pleasing outcome as it applied a very nice patina to the walnut planks. You can see the difference in the following photo. 1. Don't apply as bitumen! 2. Look for smaller quantities in the under car body/chassis preservation compounds . cheers Pat
  3. Thickness sander

    Kurt, I found taking small amounts each pass worked best as there is less chance of the 'kickback' especially with small pieces. I use about a 1/3 turn of the front wheel -usually works for me. If you do try to take more off make sure you are not standing behind the entry/feed side just in case of kickback - I usually work with the sander across my body so it feeds right to left. With very thin and small pieces try using double sided tape (such as carpet tape) to hold the piece to a larger carrier piece. cheers Pat
  4. Looks like this will develop into one very nice workshop Michael. Certainly plenty of light from those windows. cheers Pat
  5. hello from Reynella south aust

    Welcome aboard Richard; lots of helpful advice both in the forum and in the articles database. Look forward to seeing your work. cheers Pat
  6. Snowy, I went through this saga with my Endeavour build. I am about to lose the internet connection here as a new system is being fitted today - fingers crossed all goes well If i get a chance to find this I will update this post but otherwise I will do so after reconnection. in the meantime try looking for The Boats of Men of War by "May" . A search through the forums may also bring up a few answers as it has been raised on several occasions. [Edit: a quick search found this, but there is more definitive info avail. cheers Pat
  7. Thanks Jim, Chuck summarised my preference very well - much easier to follow the thread as it evolves Thanks for putting in the time and effort in the 'machinery room' guys; much appreciated - you never know how a feature / mod will work unless you try and much appreciate the 'sounding board' method. cheers Pat
  8. My preference is to let it be - the old way worked well and this will only tinker at the edges with no benefit I can see? cheers Pat
  9. I had the same problem a few weeks back - lasted for a day but I have not experienced it since. cheers Pat
  10. For irregular surfaces also try those refillable fibre bristle propelling pens BUT do take care not to get a fibre remnant in your hands/fingers as they are a real pain to remove They clean surfaces really well and I find it not even necessary to do any other prep on small items; although treatment to remove finger oils etc if not wearing gloves is recommended. cheers Pat
  11. I have also been experiencing 'delays' not so muchy access. Sometimes it takes quite a while for the pages to refresh or new pages to load. This has only started in the past week or so. cherers Pat
  12. Halyards made out of chain?

    The ship I am researching HMCSS Victoria (1855) used a lot of wire rope and chains in the rigging. The Contract specified chain for the Tyes, Braces, Futtock Shrouds, bowsprit and martingale stays etc; and especially in the areas around the funnel. Also, unlike in many clippers as John pointed out, all lower standing rigging in 'Victoria' was wire rope, including the halyards which were handled by special patent winches (purchase or halyard winches) which not only raised/lowered the Tye but was also the securing point for the halyard. The Contract also specified iron for many fittings. For 1855 that was very leading edge technology as it was only just emerging in the mercantile ships and only being experimented with in some RN ships as I am finding out. The Nautical Magazine and Naval Chronicle, along with The Mechanics Magazines for that period are providing a lot of interesting detail about these items etc. Underhill's "Masting and Rigging of the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier" also has a very good coverage of the various rig combinations. cheers Pat
  13. Bowsprit 'Steps' not Step

    Hi Pete, I have read a discussion in either Underhill (Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Transport), or Kipping (Rudimentary Treatise on Masting), about the shape of the bowsprit in which there is a discussion that some bowsprits had a flattened upper / topside and some had blocks (steps) to assist access along the bowsprit. These were supplemented by the use of manropes with the outboard end secured to the Cap and the inboard at two vertical stanchions at the head timbers/knightheads. I can't recall which at the moment and I am up to my ears in research for Victoria; but, i will have to return to rigging in coming months. If I come across the actual reference I will post the detail of where to find it.It is relevant for me also as HMCSS Victoria had the manropes (specified in the Contract and shown in lithographs), and in some visual evidence I have, may also have had the flattened topside of the bowsprit. cheers Pat