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  • Birthday 06/20/1955

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    Melbourne, Victoria
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    Family, Fishing, Woodwork and Photography

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  1. I have done exactly what Wefalck has suggested on my tweezers and it works like a charm. be sure to round the end bit (cut-off) while it is still warm otherwise you end up with a 'dag' that gets in the way Use white if you can as it shows the very small pieces up better. cheers Pat
  2. Joseph, the book is: The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850, by Peter Goodwin. cheers Pat
  3. Good luck with your project; I am sure a nice set of plans will ensue. cheers Pat
  4. Roger, I simply use fabric dye from the grocery store (RIT brand in this case). Add some salt to it to make it colour fast - there is a mixing guide on the bottle. I use 2 part black to 1 part dark brown to get the darker colours. As Frankie advises, do this on lengths of scale rope off the spool. I put the dyed line in an old teatowel afterwards to absorb a lot of the excess moisture, then allow to dry draped over a rod with a fishing weight (swivel type) clipped to each end. Please note, Riga Hemp, in its true form is a pale greyish colour and was used for the running rigging. It got a little more greyish with exposure to salt etc. It is only the other natural rope fibres (sisal, manila and coir) that are more tan in colour. cheers Pat
  5. Looks interesting; may get some myself. Thanks for the head's up[ cheers Pat
  6. Nice pics Allan. The Contract for the victoria specified lignum vitae for the bushings and thrust blocks etc. cheers Pat
  7. Great idea Eberhard cheers Pat
  8. No problem Bill, glad it sorted the issue for you. Just to provide further clarification and perhaps of some use to you also, the Victoria had four pieces as mentioned earlier. This being the first, another pieces applied to the keel extension under the prop, another on the rudder post aft of the prop, and the fourth on the underside of the hull above the prop. Thanks for the feedback Druxey; that was a piece of the puzzle I had yet to determine. James Peake shows a drawing of the stern piece/timber but does not make the sistering pieces evident - so this demystifies that structural component. cheers Pat
  9. Hi - Do you have a name we can use; its a bit 'off' referring to a bunch of letters ? I am building a steam/sail screw sloop (1855) which has a similar arrangement. It is part of the hull sheathing which has a thicker band (in four pieces for the Victoria) around the propeller aperture. This was usually formed from gun metal rather than Copper or Muntz metal as a stronger metal was required to guard from the propellor and provide strength to the thinned stern post. See the attached image above for an example; I hope this helps clarify? cheers Pat
  10. Great idea, especially as some of these types of tools/measurement devices are becoming so cheap. cheers Pat
  11. Very interesting subject matter; look forward to seeing the model;. cheers Pat
  12. Happy birthday my friend!  hope you have a great day......

    Denis >Popeye<

  13. Hi folks, just to confuse the situation more the following is an extract from the Contract for the building of the HMCSS Victoria (for the Colony of Victoria, Australia) built 1855: "Wales, Sheerstrake and Topside. - Mahogany, thick 3 inches, to taper forward and aft to 2 inches." cheers Pat