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About hexnut

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    Hartford, CT USA

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  1. Thanks. This is just a test run, to see if the method I had in mind for constructing it worked, so it is all changeable. In looking at the photos, the intermediate ring should also be higher up, as well as straightening out some of the struts. I'd also like to get a more accurate cross-section for the strut members. With a higher- resolution elevation drawing and a bit more time studying the drawings, I think it should be fairly straight-forward to tweak it in the right direction.
  2. The lattice sounds like a perfect application for a 3d printed part. When the time comes I'd be glad to do the cad work (these are fairly simple forms) to make an stl file to send to Shapeways or a service bureau. It's the only way I can think of off the top of my head to replicate an ovoid cross-section for the lattice struts...
  3. Absolutely beautiful. I have to admit that I will miss the construction updates, will you be starting another one?
  4. Continually amazing work. As others have said, electronics tweezers, like these are nice:http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Apex-Tool-Group/EROP5SA/?qs=9HaPiGkN4pO7DF6F5vzBuw%3D%3D&gclid=CJKI58mKudECFZmKswodOIgAcg
  5. Beautiful!
  6. Amazing work. What is the material of the blocks visible by your (very nicely) rebuilt aft stairs? (they look almost like mother of pearl/Bakelite in the photo...)
  7. Great blog, lots of interesting articles. Thanks for posting!
  8. You have been doing great work all along, but that fixture is truly beautiful. If you felt like going into production, the MOMA (museum of modern art) store in NYC has a "product submission" form-- https://store.moma.org/museum/moma/MoMACustomerContactUsView?storeId=10001&catalogId=10451&langId=-1 You could pitch it as: "High-end maker fixture for soldering, positioning and accurate fabrication, or unique display stand for jewelry and miniatures"... Either way, really cool!
  9. I've only used the "flame heat" kistky, not the electric ones, and I've only used them with wax, but I found them to be trickier and less predictable than a ruling pen (and that's saying something...) If the existing linework is an ink formulation as opposed to enamel, the Micron archival ink pens may be a really easy solution...I've had great luck with these on various surfaces. http://www.pigmamicron.com/
  10. Wow. Very impressive project. Hopefully you have someplace nice and warm to paint the enamels... For the black lines, will you use enamel in a ruling pen, tech pens or Micron pens?
  11. Cool! For additional fun, here's a list that these guys put together of other intrepid small boat sailors: http://www.microcruising.com/famoussmallboats.htm
  12. Thanks John, Joe, miss you guys too. Work has just been taking most of my energy lately--I've been making a lot of stuff, but all client work--I haven't touched my models in far too long. Meanwhile, I'm enjoying watching Sal and the rest of you doing wonderful things...
  13. Really nice work Sal! As far as making the physical parts, working as you are in the same size as your intended physical model is a huge advantage, as it allows you to start "distorting" some elements to size them to common stock, whether wood, brass, or model railroad-type (Grandt Line, Titchy Train, Archer, etc...) scale nuts and bolts, then sorting the remaining parts into turnings, photo-etch, 3-D prints, building a B.O.M. as you go...just as if you hadn't retired! Of course making a 3-d model of Armenia "as built" is pretty awesome in of itself, I'm really enjoying watching this.