thibaultron

They make stuff you can brush on rotten wood trim to harden it. Then you use filler to restore the surface. This has fungicide in it. It is thin and soaks into the wood. Maybe these compounds would work. I think one brand was Dr. Wood.

For the problem that the surface in contact with the balloon/bag is smooth, perhaps cover the "mold" with similar cloth, apply the paint/epoxy, etc., let it set then spray it with some sort of mold release. After that put the real sail on. that way the mold surface would be textured, not smooth, and both sides of the sail would be textured.

Here are some pictures of the finished spray booth:

 

 

 

These are a couple of pictures of the airbrush mount, and the regulator mount. The short length of glue strip is there as the regulator mount screws were longer than the ply was thick.

 

 

 

 

 

I made a temporary dust cover for the booth out of a couple boxes, that I used as drop “cloths” while painting the booth.

 

 

Thanks for this tutorial! I think I'll use this method for my 1/64th Skipjack, that I may even have time to get back to soon.

Could the sound have been lessened by the blast being outside the hull?

If you go directly to Google Translate https://translate.google.com/?sl=la

 

You can type or paste in the web address, and it will translate the entire page.

Booth Table

 

I built the base for the table today. I didn’t attach the table to it. I want to attach the casters first, and I haven’t bought them, yet.

 

I designed it for the larger 3’ wide booth, just in case. The wider booth is 28” deep plus 5” for the blower. So, I made the base 33” deep, so that the whole assembly would not be back heavy, with the blower hanging in mid air. The smaller booth comes to 29” deep. Maybe later, I’ll cut the base down, if I stick with the smaller booth.

 

Here are a couple pictures of the drawing.

 

The first is the lumber frame, without the casters. The table top is only 24” deep, therefore I made the main section of the base this deep. Happily, there was just enough of the 3/8” plywood sheet left to skin the back and sides. The bottom of the base extends past the main section to give me the 33” deep footprint I wanted. The width of the base was determined by the 35” width of the top of the remaining plywood.

 

 

In my normal frugal mode, I found a 74” long piece of 2 X 6 and a length of 2 x 4, that I ripped down to make the frame pieces. Note that the 2 X 4 also supplied the second piece “E”.

 

Here are the cuts for the plywood.

 

 

This is the resulting assembly. I ran out of long screws, and reused the pieces cut from the booth sides to attach the “E” parts. The angle was not quite the same, but it doesn’t look too bad.

 

 

I used a couple of pieces of ¾” plywood to reinforce the back corners. These were recycled from an earlier project. Waste not, want not.

 

Of course, if you don't have the sails fully set, people are going to continuously ask why. :-)

Acetone, for sure. It will make the fairing of the hull difficult, if not corrected.

Kurt;

Tried your cleaner recipe. Works very well, thanks!

Just got my copy today!! Can't say good enough things about the detail shown in the books. The only problem, is now I know my finished models will be much too clean! ;-)

Was finally able to do some testing of the booth today. Unfortunately neither my camera, nor my phone give good enough video to show the testing.

 

However, here are the results:

 

1.      The 250 CFM blower is too big for this size booth, 2' X 2' X 2', but it does not suck the paint stream when I paint, so, for now, I will use it as is. If I was to do it again, I'd get the 130 CFM blower.

 

2.         The blower is also, I'm sure loader than a 130 CFM unit, but it is not objectionable. My cheap Harbor Freight compressor, on the other hand, is objectionably loud though! I need to get a long hose at put it in another room.

 

3.         The baffle I added, helped in distributing the air flow evenly across the filter.

 

4.         When I did a smoke test, with incense, there were no blowback areas anywhere in the booth. The smoke was drawn directly back in a straight stream.

 

5.         During the summer I will have a nice breeze blowing past me! In the winter, maybe not so nice!

 

6.         I think I will simply direct the output into a covered bucket, with relief holes drilled in it, for acrylic paints. There was nothing coming out the outlet, nor any smell. If I use solvent paints, then I will vent it outside. The blower would exchange the air in the shop, much faster than either my heating, or air conditioner could keep up with, if vented outside all the time. Another reason for a smaller blower.

 

7.         This size booth is a better fit for my space than a 3’ wide one would be. I have another sheet of 3/8” plywood, though, so I may build the bigger one, just to see if I like it better.

 

I have to build the table/desk next, and paint the booth. I have some aluminum flashing, white on one side, I may line the bottom with it, just to make paint cleanup easier. I also have to find a light to install in the top.

2 Like this

 

Frank;

OK, buy the new version, thanks!

Does anyone know if there is a difference between the 1970s and 2005 issues of this book?

One thing you did, but didn't mention, is that you used location bumps and indentations in your molds. The readers can see them in the corners of the RTV molds, in several pictures. For those who don't know what they are for, it is to align the molds. If you leave these out, getting them lined up so the casting will not have the two halves skewed, when you take them out of the mold, is extremely difficult.

I cut the baffles from some of the left over ply siding the rest of the booth was built from. They are ~4” wide, set at a 17  deg. angle toward the back.  I cut 4 short lengths of the ¾” square glue strips to add surface area for the glue. I figured that if I tried to glue just the baffles in, they would end up inside the fan. I used small brads to hold it together while the glue set.

 

Here are pictures of the baffle I added. It will probably be next week before I can test the booth again. Once again work and family needs.

 

Baffles from the back.

 

 

 

And another from the front.

 

 

There is about 1 3/8” gap between the rear of the baffles, and the front of the blower wall. This gives 35 ½ sq. inches of area in the gaps between both baffles and the wall. With about 18 sq. inches of area for the blower inlet, I think this is enough so that there will be little added restriction from the baffle addition.

 

I bought some incense today, to use as a smoke source for testing, when the time comes, then a paint test.

I tested the booth today, it seems to work OK, at least with me spraying water. The water was not highly visible though.

 

Feeling the flow with just my hand, the area directly over the fan inlet seemed to have the most flow, not surprisingly.

 

I decided that I needed to spread the flow over more of the back of the booth. So I’ve added two angled baffles just behind the center of the filter. I calculated the area of the openings left between the baffle edge and the blower wall. The total area is over 3 times the area of the blower inlet, so I should not be overly loading the fan.

 

I’ll do more testing tomorrow, after the glue dries, and I reassemble the booth. I think I’ll go down to the discount store and buy some cheap incense to do a smoke test.

 

Here is a shot of the drawing, I’ll add pictures tomorrow, or when I find the camera! The green bar is the filter, and the red bars are the baffles I added.

 

Kurt;

The only Spic and Span I can find are liquid spray bottle type cleaners, lemon or citrus scent. Is that the type you use for your cleaner?

Kurt;

Thanks I'll try that when I can do some tests. It may be a week or so before I can do the testing.

Never mind, I failed to read the title 1/32nd scale.

What scale are you going to build her in?

I'll be following this!!

Kurtvd19;

Thanks for the cleaning formula!! I be stopping by the store tomorrow!

 

Where do you give your workshops?

I “finished” construction on the spray booth today!!. The finished is in quotes, because it is still in the experimental stage.

 

I temporarily used closed cell weather stripping to seal the blower wall, that is why it is sticking so far out from the rear edges of the booth.

 

 

Here is a shot of the filter in place.

 

 

The filter is 10” X 20”. The top filter frame piece is screwed in from the back.

 

I’ll paint it after I test paint a model, and see how it works. Just feeling the airflow by hand, indicates that the blower may, indeed, be too strong for this size booth.

 

It may be a week or so before I can paint something, as family and work needs may interfere.

I caulked the booth today, and re-cut the top to make the light opening larger. I also used the Dremel to cut off the tips of the screws that protruded into the interior.

 

I limited the caulking to the filter mounts, and the blower chamber. Any air that may leak in around the joints of the spray area will not have much of any effect on the performance.

 

I had planned to make the cover of the blower chamber removable, but decided that it should be permanently attached. I can access the whole thing from the blower end, as the blower wall is removable.

 

 

I caulked as much of the chamber as I could get to. I caulked both joints each glue strip made with the inside, and along the outside of the chamber cover.

 

 

With everything glued, the caulk may not have been necessary, but it won’t hurt.

 

I installed strips to hold the filter in place. I cut them so that the filter is a light press fit. If needed in the future, I will add some kind of tabs to hold it.

 

I caulked around the outside edges of the filter wall, and the outside of the filter strips.

 

 

The joint at the top of the filter wall, blower chamber cover, and sloped back, got special treatment. I filled the joint from the top, then added more along the top of the filter wall. Next I added an angled strip to fill the gap at the cover / sloped back joint. This was not glued, but set in a bed of caulk.

 

 

 

I then turned my attention to the booth top piece. I decided that I needed to make the light “hole” larger. I trimmed it so that the back and sides were 1 ½” wide, and the front 1”.

 

 

This piece will be hinged  to the sloped back using a piano hinge. The top is ¾” plywood and the sloped back 3/8” ply. I needed to cut a rabbet in the back of the piece, so that the hinge will sit properly. This is shown to the bottom of the picture, above.

 

I attached another piece of the angled glue strip along the booth top / sloped back joint. It provided stiffening to the plywood edge of the back, a seat for the top, until I install the hinge, and a slightly better seal to the joint.

 

 

The plywood used for the booth was warped, and the tips at the top front turned in. So that the top would fit correctly I added a removable brace to the front. The top is hinged so that I can get better access to the top of a model, and a permanent brace would interfere with this. I simply screwed a couple of short pieces of glue strip to the front of the booth, and the brace sits in the gap between these and the strips along the top of the side walls.

 

 

It pushes the tips apart about an inch, as can be seen when I just sit the brace on top, without forcing it in place.

 

 

This is a photo of the top and brace in place.

 

 

With just the overhead shop light shining through the top, you can see that the interior is well lit.