Blue Ensign

Post Seventeen Adding the nails Following on from my last post I have applied wipe-on to the decking and the framing below the hull planking, and a further coat to the keel pieces. I now need to consider the nailing. Having applied some several thousand copper nails to the clinker hull of my Alert build, this seems like light relief. 20lb black Filament is supplied and a#74 drill bit is recommended for the purpose. Some 1650 mm of line is provided which is sufficient for 330 5mm lengths, more than enough to fulfil Chuck’s suggested arrangement. I’m not familiar with either filament or #sized drills, but converted to metric a #74 drill = 0.5334 mm ø drill #75 drill = 0.5334 mm ø drill The filament has a 0.5mm diameter, and I used a corresponding drill to suit. 0.5mm ø at scale equates to 0.47” which seems somewhat overscale, and less than half of this is probably more appropriate. However, I appreciate that the whole nailing set-up is purely artistic license, but I rather like the effect. For the lower plank I have restricted the nails to only where the plank crosses a frame, it seemed pointless to insert a nail into a plank without anything to connect it to. In reality a clinker-built boat would be planked from the keel up. 1520 For this operation I inverted the boat for ease of working. 1522 I eyed the position of the nails and used a simple jig to fix the drill point at 1mm from the edge. For the upper plank nailing I followed the kit scheme, again sighting and marking the position, and using the jig for the drilling. 1532(2) This time I had the boat the correct way up for marking and fitting and inverted for drilling. 1542(2) 1543(2) I have decided not to apply any more wop to the planking until I have fixed the moulding rails which is the next stage of the operation. B.E. 07/04/21

Always an exception to prove a rule, we are talking generalities here. B.E.

The one I heard is that you can put a boat on a ship, but not a ship on a boat. B.E.

Boats are very welcome, at least my last several builds haven't been thrown off the site, all much smaller than ships.😃 B.E.

This thread makes me smile when I consider how contemporary models and even more recent iconic models such as Longridge’s Victory are treated. Even the NMM no longer considers most ship models are worthy of displaying and has shipped them off to storage at Chatham. The last time I saw Longridge’s Victory it was in a poor condition, and that too is no longer on display at The Science Museum. Sadly, the broad sway of the public have no interest in ship models, including most of your relatives. How long the models we build last is of little consequence in the overall scheme of things, build them to enjoy in you own lifetime. B.E.

Thank you Jean-Paul, I regularly check out your excellent build as I proceed. B.E.

Post Sixteen First internal fixings While I continue to fettle the frames, at this point I felt it time to install the floorboarding and Platforms. The main floor went in without issue. 1457 The Amati planking clamps proved useful once again. 1490(2) I made up the aft and Fore platforms, pre-formed strips that went together without issue. These are simply edge glued together. Fitting the aft platform involves using Chuck’s simple height gauge to mark the correct level on the frames, which may be subject to some tweaking. I found that Frame 9 did need further reducing to allow the height to be marked. The gluing area is pretty small so weights are used to obtain good contact. 1510 Aft Platform completed. The Fore platform proved the trickiest to fit and by the end I was wondering whether Chuck was having a little joke at my expense. It is in two parts fitted either side of Frame (I) The larger section effectively balances on only one frame (H) and butts up against Solid Bulkhead (I) without any batten like support. The smaller section is butted against the forward side of Bulkhead (I) and rests on the ‘V’ the Foremost Frame ( J) I so wanted to add a support rail beneath this platform, and certainly would have done had I been solid planking the hull. 1492 I noted that Jean-Paul (JpR62) used a temporary batten taped to the Bulkhead to give support while the glue took, and I happily followed his example. 1495 Frame H took a lot of fairing to get the platform to sit in the right position with the aft end sitting on the forward section of Frame G and the forward end of the platform at the right level on the Bulkhead. Again, there is little gluing area and I used weights to ensure a good contact. 1497 The final piece of this testy little exercise is to fix the fore end of the platform where the intention is to make it appear to have mortised thro’ the Bulkhead. 1500 I must admit the gaps between floor and platforms I find untidy looking and unfinished. Surely a shaped beam, attached to the frames would have been used to support and secure the inboard ends of the platform planking. On a practical level whilst holding the model I did inadvertently put pressure on the forward platform which gave way along the seam. I am still toying with the idea of attaching a beam to the frames to give support. 1516 1502(2) 1512(2) I will spend the rest of the day cleaning and fettlin’ before I apply a coat of wipe-on-poly to dry overnight. B.E. 05/04/21

There are no rules about building a model in any way you wish, but I think perhaps you are approaching the subject with the wrong mindset. By its very nature ship modelling is generally not a quick fix activity, and in order to get a half decent result the planking and hull construction at least needs, and indeed takes, time and effort. There is no real way around the need to fair bulkheads so that the planks lay correctly. or to shape the planks to some degree. Shortcuts generally involve leaving off detail or displaying a model without masting or rigging, for which there is a fine tradition in the form of Navy board style models. Having said that, you are of course welcome to start a log, who knows, once you start your enthusiasm may develop. B.E.

As Alan says diluted pva is good for adding 'weightiness' to line. With cat tackles I suspend a small lead weight from the cat block hook and paint diluted pva on the tackle lines. B.E.

Post Fifteen Completing the fairing of frame and rail. The method I trialled on the first few frames worked out well. Use of the scalpel speeded up the process, and I also used the scalpel to carefully reduce the width of the rails which saved a lot of sanding. 1414 Having sanded the outboard of the rail flush with the planking I used dividers to lightly score the near finish line which was sufficient to prevent the scalpel point running off-line. 1421(2) I used a template from the plan to guide the shape at the bow where it meets the stem post. 1428 Not there yet but getting closer. 1433 Using the width gauge to check a uniform width of 2mm Once satisfied with the rail I turned my attention to fine tuning the frames. 1434(2) The simple width gauge can be seen lying on the frame centres. 1438(2) 1435(2) 1442(2) 1444(2) 1445 The prominent sheer is apparent in these shots. 1439(2) It can be difficult to know when to stop, but I think I’m there with the rails and frames. Test fitting of the floors may prove me wrong in relation to the frames. I think some tidying up is required before I proceed to the next stage. B.E. 01/04/21

Phew that’s a relief, but whichever way you choose she will look great.👍 B.E.

Hi Glenn, Beautiful work on those guns, a joy to behold. 👏🏻 Just a point to check, should the cut-outs for the anchor cables be in the Main hatch gratings rather than the Fore hatch, if not I’ve made a major error on my build🤔 B.E.

Thank you Rusty.👍 Post Fourteen Fairing and thinning. I felt myself getting a touch of the modelling yips trying to decide on the best approach to this task. At first glance the fining down of the frames and thinning of the rails seems a task fraught with danger given that there are some 46 delicate frame sides to reduce to a uniform and elegant shape. I decided to start at the stern area taking in the aftermost five frames. 1410 I am using a No11 scalpel blade to pare away in an upward motion to achieve a narrowing curve up to the rail. This reduces sanding time, creates a nice clean line, but has its risks in that I am working with the blade coming towards my steadying fingers at the rail. For this reason, a fresh blade is used every two or three frames, keep it sharp, keep it clean. 1411 Once I have pared down the frame to rail level, I sand the rail horizontally and repeat the exercise. I use a pair of dividers set a tad over 2mm to score the width of the rail which I then line with pencil as a guide. I picked up on Rusty’s log where he describes his use of a simple width gauge to check the rail width as he progresses. 1412 The difference to the yet unworked frames is clear. At this point I decided to move forward to the following frames and reduce them to the same degree before returning to fine tune the whole set. 1413 In my next post I hope I will show the successfully completed frame reduction task, but this may take some time. Cheers, B.E. 29/03/21

You and David are surely a ship modelling dream team, beautiful work Greg. Is that a seat of ease, or a pisdale located in the bow bulwark? B.E.

Set of the sail looks good Erik, very nicely done. 👍 B.E.

Ha, Ha, Bruce, testimony to Chuck's design, I think she'd stand more than a 2lb weight, but I'm not about to push it. 😉 B.E.

Post Thirteen Cap Rails and frames I can’t say I’m looking forward to the slow and delicate process of adding the cap rails and fining down the frames. The Cap rails are first fitted and then the frames and rails thinned down to achieve a consistent 5/64” width along the entire length of the rail. I scratched my head a little over this. As we in the UK have used the metric system for many years, (Napoleon did at least win this campaign, eventually) for ease of working I need to convert. 5/64” as a decimal = 0.0781 x 25.4 = 1.984mm The finished rail is indicated as a hair less than 3/32” 3/32” as decimal = 0.09375 x 25.4 = 2.38mm I was a little puzzled as the working width seemed less that the finished width, but by less than 0.5mm. I decided to aim for a working width of 2mm. First things first, the frame tops are to be levelled flush with the sheer strake. Chuck is right these took more work than first envisaged. I started with the Starboard Bow rail. This needed a deeper recess at the stem point to allow it to sit at least flush at all points with the planking at the bow on the outboard side. (Probably something to do with my fairing of the bow area.) 1308 Once set, I fitted the Port side rail which was no trouble at all. 1310 The long centre rails were trimmed and fitted next without issues. The final stern strips involve a little more work, bevelling to meet the Flying Transom and notching of the Transom to take the rail. This begs the question how much of a notch? Given that the finished rail should be 5/64” or 2mm in my world. I opted to make the notch 2mm including the thickness of the Sheer strake. I pre-cut the stern rail from the Flying Transom forward to Frame 10 to a 2mm profile. 1311(2) The rails needed one further tweak, a slight edge bend to follow the inward curve as the rail meets the Transom. Here the lower Starboard rail has been subjected to the treatment. 1314 The ‘tweaked’ stern rails. 1321 Stern Rails in place, the pre thinned area aft of Frame 10 will eventually be continued along allowing for a flare at the bow. 1319(2) 1326(2) 1320(2) Sanding down of the rails to be flush with the exterior planking is mostly done, a little tweaking here and there. I now need to work out my approach to the internal fairing of the frames. B.E. 28/03/21

Thank you, Bruce, and Rusty. @ Rusty – I only hope I can match your standard of rail/frame completion. Useful tips on your log, I like your use of a width gauge for the rails. Did you first start by thinning the inboard rails, or the frames? It seems to me that the rails would be sanded horizontally along the grain, and the frames vertically. Regards, B.E.

Post Twelve A Barge emerges. A point in the build that I suspect many builders are pleased to reach. The hull is removed from its building board. I took this slowly and carefully as advised by Chuck, and it didn’t prove too onerous. I now have my first sight of the model the right way up unencumbered by the board. 1235 Front part of the board removed, so far, so good. At this point I was tempted to add the Garboard strake as shown in Chuck Seiler’s build, which would also no doubt help to counter any tendency for the hull to hog, given the length and fineness of the keel. I rather liked to look of it, but I also liked the view of the deadwood at the stern which would be obscured by the Garboard strake. Decisions, decisions, but in the end I opted for the original Chuck presentation. 1238(2) I modified the building board for the second stage of the build as suggested in the instructions. Stem and stern post supports are necessary to hold the hull secure. 1242(2) I am a big fan of Balsa blocks to support models whilst working. They are endlessly re-worked to suit each new project. 1244(2) The barge is now held firmly in place for me to begin the business of frame centre removal. 1246(2) For this delicate operation I am using an etched fine-toothed scalpel saw. 1286(2) The whole process went very well, a few of the frames broke away from the planking but were easily re-glued, and there were no breaks in the frames themselves. 1281(2) Once cut, the centres came away easily using a gentle rocking motion. The discarded centres will no doubt come in for other projects. My covid hairstyle continues to develop, and still several weeks away from a barber, but who needs a barber when you’re busy building a Barge. 1278 With all the centres removed I can now sight along the hull and clearly see whether my fitting of the Transoms looks right. 1287(2) It looks ok to my eye, but stare at something too long and………. 1290(2) A chance to compare this 36’ Royal Barge to my 21’ Pinnace, both at 1:24 scale. 1292(2) 1295 1298(2) Four weeks fairly steady work to reach this point and I have what looks like a Barge in Frame. Back under its cover for the Pinnace, and onto what Chuck describes as the most delicate stage of the build. I suspect progress is about to slow down. B.E. 24/03/21

Thank you, Chuck, Glenn, Michael, and Kirill, and for the ‘likes’. @ Glenn – Clamping is such an important part of ship modelling, I don’t think you can have too many clamps, and getting inventive with methods is part of the skill set. @ Kirill – I do use ca gel but usually only in those areas where clamping is difficult or instant grab is necessary. I use pva in preference as it is kinder to the wood (and me) and it doesn’t mark the surface of timber or make it brittle, as does ca. The pva I use is a high quality non waterproof glue that grabs in around 5 minutes, unwanted spread is easily cleaned up with a paintbrush dipped in water, and water is used to de-bond the glue if necessary. The main thing I would use ca for is applying copper plates to hulls. Bonding other metal items, where I would have previously used ca I now silver solder where possible. Regards, B.E.

All turned out very well Richard, this is the point in a build where the fun part starts for me. B.E.

Thanks Peter, an oldie but a goodie as they say, but still a model that can be made a lot of. I think the plastic lion is ok and if treated today with artist oils could look really good. I'm glad they have replaced those plastic blocks and deadeyes, and there is so much stuff out there now to enhance models. I was forty years too early with my attempt. Cheers, B.E.

Liking what I see Phill 👍 B.E.

There are scant details on MSW of builds of this iconic Billing Boat kit, and periodically questions arise, often concerning inherited or partially built models requiring completion or restoration in the absence of plans or instructions, which in the case of Billing Boats were somewhat thin. So, in the spirit of giving some images that may help, I post here my Norske Løve story. I must have posted it somewhere before but can’t for the life of me remember where or when, but I do have my original log and photos. A cautionary note, this is a model I made over forty years ago, so the standard of fittings, and the ravages of dust have taken its toll on the condition. If I knew then what I know now I could certainly have made a better job of her but she remains a model for which I still have great affection, and I have resisted the temptation to upgrade her. Those not familiar with the finer points of our art tend to be seriously impressed by the sight of her. ( Norske) Løve Story More years ago, than I care to remember, before my office was a den of computer stuff, and before the digital age, I had a yen to build a large scale wooden 18th century warship. In those days it was either Billing Boats or Billing Boats, and as I browsed through their catalogue my eyes alighted on Norske Løve. It was the image of the modeller putting the final touches to the model that grabbed my attention, I wanted to be that guy. BB Cat cover Yes, I still have that original catalogue, in those days I actually went to a model shop, can you believe it! Pity I didn’t have the internet resource back then, but I did have the Longridge book and perhaps more importantly the Masting and rigging book by James Lees. Given that the Norske Løve was launched in 1765 it immediately struck me that the round tops provided in the kit, were oddly out of period, more 17th century than 18th The masts and tops were therefore scratch built to proportions given in the Lees book for ships of the correct period. The other main area that gave me concern was the head. In common with many wooden kit models this is a weak area with a less than realistic rails set up. Catalogue shot of the bows These were therefore also scratch built. I made other ‘modifications’ not necessarily in accordance with the plans, such as a skylight on the Poop and removeable skids to house boats which were not provided with the kit. Billing at the time (and probably still are) were in the habit of providing some plastic fittings for their kits such as blocks and Deadeyes, decorations etc. I seem to recall that the fittings kit was a separate purchase to the main build kit. This is Billings catalogue shot of the completed model. The build took me a couple of years, and my office resembled more of a joiners shop than an office. Drill stand and vice screwed to the desk top, wood turning model lathe and dremel permanently plugged in where now the printer and computer stuff reside. Everything was covered in a fine film of dust, but boy how I enjoyed that build. When completed the model sat in a lighted cabinet that filled one wall of the office and that’s how it stayed for some years. With the arrival of computers and the need to use my office for its proper purpose, everything was changed. Away went the cabinet and all the modelling stuff. 1153 Norske Løve then proudly sat uncovered on a long chest of drawers, where it resides to this day. Strangely things have come full circle and in retirement my office once again resembles more of a workshop, but I don’t think the resident equipment would appreciate a return to the heavy sawdust days. So here is the photo collection of my interpretation of Norske Løve, 1120 1127 1134 1138 1139 The head rails were scratch built using yellow pine, but there were several breakages before I got a satisfactory set. The Lower and Middle rails are mortised thro’ the head timbers, and the Main rail rebated into the head timbers. 04 02 I recall the exercise being long, slow, and frustrating. 1151 I particularly like the stern and Quarter galleries with their glazed lights, one of my pet dislikes with wooden kits are false windows or even worse stuck on windows, such as with the Mantua Le Superbe that lies forlornly in the loft. This is one area where Billing have done a good job, there was very little tweaking to this area of the build. 1140 1170 The modified tops, scratch built to proportions given by James Lees. The plastic rigging blocks supplied by Billings were replaced by boxwood versions. 004(2) 1133 1152 The main difficulty with single planked hulls such as this is that there is little scope for cocking it up if you don’t want to hide it with paint. I also have an aversion to stub guns so the lower ports are closed. 008(2) 010 The Poop was modified by the addition of a skylight, and the Ensign hand painted on cotton. The simplicity of the Danish flag lends itself to this method. 007(2) I think the anchors were aftermarket purchases. The Boats 002 005 Boats were not supplied so I had to create my own. 1132 1173 The deck fittings are mostly removeable to assist cleaning which is evidently overdue when this photo was taken. 1145 Dust build up is clearly apparent here. 1135 I really prefer models out of cases, they have so much more impact, and 1:75 scale allows for reasonable cleaning access which in this case takes about three hours every few months or so. I hope those who cross paths with this kit get some benefit from this vintage build. Regards, B.E. 22/03/21

Thank you Thunder and Mike. @ Mike, - rather than clutter your log with photos of my build, I will put a separate log on here for folks to use as they will. My build long pre-dated MSW but I do have a short log that I must have put on some other site, but where I simply can't remember. I hope you will find it of use. Regards, B.E.