Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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New to ship modelling? But what do you build first?
Chuck Seiler replied to MSW's topic in Wood ship model kits
The painting process is part of the building process. Agreeably, early on it is just a matter of applying paint and giving it color. Later on it becomes: what to paint and what to leave natural, what type paint, what color (for instance, there are a bazillion shades of red), how to get the perfect finis, and so forth. -
If you don't mind a suggestion, I recommend swapping out basswood in place of cardboard for your hull. It is a soft wood so it cuts easily, like cardboard, but is much stronger. It is available in most hobby stores here in US. I'm not sure of availability in Germany. We have many modelers from Germany in this forum and I am sure they can help. You may want to post a question in the wood section as well. In another area, you mentioned you were working on deadeyes next. I would recommend finishing the hull first. You will face several challenges-particularly planking. I find that it is easier for me if I progress logically from one step to the next. That way I don't get distracted.
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Strelock, It is not unusual for the first attempt at a model to be a "prototype" with your lessons learned used to do better next time. I am not talking about 'the first model you build', rather the first run at any particular model you are working on. In my case, I have to un-glue wooden parts and disassemble part of the model. I am currently working on a cardboard model and found cardboard does not un-glue as easily as wood. 😢 I am sure many modelers do not have this problem, but it is not all that unusual. Good luck and keep building.
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Definition of ‘FINISHED’?
Chuck Seiler replied to Rob S's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
FINISHED= you have completed construction on it (as originally planned). If your intent is to not have masts and rigging, then your model is finished. In this case your VICTORY would NOT be finished, because it is missing a couple decks. 😁- 4 replies
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It sounds to me like he is describing carvel planked (flush) and clinker/lapstrake (overlap). The first three strakes (garboard, broad and #3) were carvel and the rest clinker. The sources I have read do indicate that in estuaries and such, the cog could/would settle onto the river bottom. The flush planking would facilitate that. 'The garboard strake lays flush to the keel and were not connected to it'. Might that mean 'not physically nailed or bolted to the keel, but fitted into a rabbet'? I know with viking longships and I believe with cogs, the floor frames were attached to the keel and the lower strakes attached to the floor. After that (in this case strake #4 and above) were attached to the strake below it clinker style and only after the shell was complete were the first and second futtocks added.
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I noticed the pink lipstick, but didn't mention anything about that either.
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Captain Gump, I suggest taking down that jackstaff while steaming around the North Atlantic in the winter. You are liable to lose it.
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Tony, Good question. My brain knows what I am talking about. My fingers apparently do not. The process I use is to take a 2 inch piece of bamboo BBQ skewer and quarter it so that I have 4 narrow pieces about 2 inches long. It would be more efficient to 1/6th it or 1/8th it, but I always screw that up. I chuck the bamboo into the Dremel and using fine sandpaper and Dremel on low, sand down the top 1/2 inch or so. Fine sandpaper=because course tends to grap the fibers. Dremel on slow or medium speed because it gets hot. I hold the sandpaper in my fingers and hold fingers around bamboo. I will take a picture and insert it. The result is NOT a nice 2" long treenail. That would snap off very easily. I keep it short and use part of it, then sand more.
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Yes, I know, I have 2 Byrnes draw plates. Dremel is still faster.
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I disagree. Several years in a row, when I worked with our club at the county fair, one of our members was demonstrating how to make trunnel using the draw plate. Unless you can cut your original stock very fine, you need to draw it thru 2 or more every decreasing holes. By the time he completed 2, I completed 8. Maybe not perfect, but at 1/2 millimeter, close enough for government work. As I recall, bamboo doesn't work well with draw plate. I may be wrong.
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Billings Boats has a Santa Maria?
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An alternative to a metal pin is a bamboo treenail. Using pieces of a good bamboo BBQ skewer, a Dremel and fine sand paper I can get a trunnel down to .5MM. That and an 80 micro drill bit will work with really small parts. You can go thicker with the larger parts. I like bamboo because you can get very fine, yet it maintains strength due to it's fiberousity.
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Leave it black.
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Salt water on a slick painted deck even under normal at-sea conditions could be hazardous. In rough conditions: very dangerous. Non skid paint was/is used on weather decks where people are likely to walk. It is too expensive to use on the whole deck. Similarly, ladder treads have either non-slip diamond tread or non-skid-like tread. I don't know if it will work on 144 scale, but black 400 or 600 grit sand paper words great on 1/96 scale.
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Hello from the not so sunny Spain.
Chuck Seiler replied to Jandrus's topic in New member Introductions
Jandrus, Welcome to Model Ship World and wooden models and a toast to your girlfriend for talking you over the line. -
Matthias from Berlin, Germany says Hello
Chuck Seiler replied to victory78's topic in New member Introductions
Matthias, Welcome to MSW. I applaud your decision to stay with the hobby and go with a simpler model. Many are attracted to the hobby by the big fancy ships, only to be easily discouraged. I had a similar start as you. I wanted to build HMS VICTORY and USS CONSTITUTION but I eventually went smaller/simpler and worked on my skills. Now I am building ship types I have never heard of before and having much fun. -
Greetings, and welcome, from Southern California.
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The strakes or the planks in the strakes? Are you basing that on the above picture and other representations or of the wreck? I don't think the planks are small, I think the people are too big. The planking pattern on the above picture, and other representations I have seen, is similar to the Wunterhund model. I think they LOOK short because they are wide. The above station master is 5 scale feet (5 feet 1 inch). The plank 3 strakes above him is 14.5 feet long and about 2 feet wide. I believe the representations show the cog as they see it, but the people are much larger...artistic license. Whadya think?
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Chris, I am working on my inner planking. I currently have the picture of the Roland von Bremen on my desktop as inspiration. As I am installing the inner planks I am noticing things on the RvB. Shouldn't the model have cap rails? Nowhere in my instructions do I see cap rails.
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CRI, In my humble opinion, your pictures and log look great with or without spaces. PLEASE don't stop posting.
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I can see what CRI is talking about. The pictures are butted up against each other top to bottom. If he had not mentioned it, I would not have noticed. I just looked at a couple other logs...some have spaces some do not. I am using Firefox. Try to manually put a space between pictures...see how that works. Beautiful build, by the way.
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Since the model seems to be somewhat based on the Bremen Cog wreck, I'm thinking they did SOME research. Maybe not. Having driven a 12 foot sailboat and a 4000 ton destroyer, I find it hard to believe they would lock their rudder in place and good exactly the way they wanted to go without any minor adjustments. I can't do that in my car.
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