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Chuck Seiler

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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Bob, Fantastic job! I am not a big fan of weathering the Philly since the original was built and sunk in a fraction of the time it took me to build mine. That having been said, your weathering is great. Nice touch with the mortar and muskets. Looking forward to your cookstove.
  2. Never mind. I see the pieces affix to the sides of part 1 making it 3 ply.
  3. Oh maaaaaaaaaan! I was hoping to paint the 1960's cartoon character on the sail....oh wait, that was Under Dog. 😛
  4. Clare, Yup, that was me. Package received this AM. Very fast delivery time!!! I may do a build log if I can remember what I did with my camera. I will be following your build log as well as Chris'. While 'wonder dog' is slightly different than Bremen Cog, the basic hull is pretty close. It appears that parts 2, 3, 4 and 5 (stem, keelson and sternpiece) are 2 parts each. Do you glue them together (2I and 2S, etc) before gluing to part 1? It is unclear.
  5. Clare, More semi-scratch than scratch. I bought the Shipyard Wütender Hund from AOS...same as Chris Coyle is building, except cardboard (AOS does carry wood version yet). Awaiting delivery. My thought is to use the provided planks as templates for wood (1/32 or 3/64).
  6. Clare, What are your thoughts on using the cardboard frame but planking with real wood?
  7. Clare, That makes sense. I once watched a video on building a Viking longboat reproduction and recall how each plank was bolted/rivetted to the neighboring planks along the edge. Afterwards they were affixed to the frames. The reproduction of the Hansa cog appears to have narrower hull planks than the Bremmen reproductions. Many thank to both Chris and Clare. Chuck
  8. T'is not the hull form that comes to mind when I think of 'privateer', but what can you say. It looks like an interesting build, but the hull planks don't look right. Would they really be that wide? The other issue is the 'fasteners' - they are fastened around the edges vs fastened to the frames. I am not familiar with medieval ship construction. Is that correct?
  9. Who cares how thick it is if you can't see it? Having said that, before you dismiss me as a heathen 🤪🙉... Are you a master? Probably not. Do you have excellent planking skills? If so and your planking is perfect, then maybe you won't have problem, but when I plank...no matter how diligent I try to be, I get irregularities. Some planks and some strakes stand slightly prouder than others. If you start off with really thin wood then you might end up sanding a hole in your hull. I like using planks with a little extra meat so you can sand them down to a smooth surface. I really don't like getting much thinner than 3/64ths. If some of your planks are scale 4 or 5 inches thick, but you have a good smooth surface, does it really matter?
  10. MALCO. Cranston, Rhode Island https://www.malcosaw.com/high-speed-steel-saws/jeweler-s-slotting-saws.html Based on Jim's recommendations, I used to get my replacement blades from THURSTON. When they went out of business, somebody recommended MALCO...I believe it was this forum. I see relacement for slitting saw blades, which I use 90% of the time, but not a comparable larger carbide blade. I use thatso seldom, I don't forsee a need for replacement.
  11. Welcome Back!!!! 😀
  12. Use your exacto knife or equivilent to do the same.
  13. I found the plans in the book to be adequate to build the hull,but I would recommend getting the plans for Model Shipways ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP for your rigging and sail plan.
  14. I've never been a Craigslist type of guy, but as I prepare to get around to thinking about planning my next project I know my Dremel bolt=to=the=table scroll saw just won't cut the mustard. With the credo "go with quality" as is often espoused here and with this post in mind, I set my sights on Craigslist with the idea of getting a reasonably priced DeWalt. Patience paid off. In addition to many "one project and sold" saws on the market, I saw many "husband bought this many years ago and no longer needs it" saws. In this category I am sure there were many older models that used to be good but are now made overseas. As I said, patience paid off. I paid more than I planned for a used DeWalt...but FAR less that I would have for a Hegner. Thanks for the tip. I recommend to all.
  15. Got wood? I have been thinking about planning to getting around to considering a project that I want to use cherry for. Since Crown Timber closed its door and Chuck stopped selling cherry, I needed another quality, reliable source. I checked out Ocooch based on recommendos from Chuck and others in this thread and others. I am glad I did. They provide a good selection of woods and alot of pre-planned sizes. While most of what I wanted was on their webpage, I needed a size that was not. I contacted the company and Ethan responded quickly. The prices are reasonable and the quality good. I ordered the wood and it was received in a very timely manner. I would strongly support getting Ocooch aboard as a sponsor. Even if that does not pan out, I highly recommend them as a wood source. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer. Thanx Chuck for the recommendation.
  16. It's going to take alot more than a shirt to make me look as sharp as that guy.
  17. What you saw were plugs, not treenails. The deck plank is countersunk then nailed into place. Next, a plug is inserted into the hole to protect the nail. Looking at treenails you see end grain. Plugs you see side grain.
  18. The smallest SYREN has is 18MM. Four for $9. If you can spot a MM difference on 2 objects not directly next to each other, you have better eyes than I.
  19. I agree. My experience with the Dremel drill press is it is wobbly...not good for fine accurate work. Vanda-Lay Industries used to make one (Dremel based drill press/mill) that was quite a bit more accurate. I'm not sure if they are still around. You are faced with a decision; stay with Plan A and it's issues or write it off as a learning experience and go with Plan B, the alternate keel. I recommend going with Plan B. Errors tend to compound as you go along. See what others suggest.
  20. I use the 7700. It is a little bulky than the 8050, but I have no problem with it. The 7300 looks to be a little less bulky. Both are 2 speed. The 7700 runs faster than the 7300 on both speeds, but I have no issue. I would also get the micro chuck.
  21. Cricket, That appears to be a Dremel drill press with some sort of X-Y table attached. If so, where did the X-Y come from?
  22. I am a big fan of Dremel cordless. I have several although not this particular model. It SAYS it gets 3.5 hours on a charge but I have found that these claims are always high. That is why I always get at least one spare battery so when battery 1 goes flat during a project, I can switch out to battery 2 without having to wait for recharge. It appears the battery for this tool is integral to the tool and it is charged as a whole unit. That would be my primary concern. Love the 'headlight'.
  23. Ryland, I see that you applied tape to the frames to help strengthen. It appears that the tape overlaps the frame edges. Am I seeing this correctly? If so, how will that affect your ability to fair the frames?
  24. I am no gun expert, but I play one on TV.... For what it's worth, attached is a shot of a swivel gun on the San Diego Maritime Museum HMS SURPRISE. It pencils out from muzzle to end of ball as 30 inches. If my math is correct, that would be .46875 inches or 11.90625 MM (roughly half inch or 12 MM). Whatever you decide, check out Syren Ship Model Company for options. I don't recall what sizes Chuck has an his 'store' is closed over the Holidays, so sizes are unavailable. Check back after the New Year.
  25. Take a look at Dubz log, page 4. He talks about an issue of plans versus templates (I think) and how following one screws up plank location. You can't miss it....he exhibits alot of ffrustration and there are pics of the planking being removed. I think this qualifies as a major 'if only'.
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