Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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I would think you would get an idea of the various rigging sizes from the plans provided in the kit. I believe from past discussion that newly tarred lines would be a dark brown, but they would get darker with age. You can use that as a guide...dark brown or brown with a little black added. I tied that awhile back and just made a muck of it. Now I just get the dark brown line from Syren Ship Model company (no affiliation...just the same first name).
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Bob, You paint the molding before you glue it into place, correct? That provides for a real sharp paint job without 'overspray' onto the planks above and below. Looking good!!- 682 replies
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How late in the 18th century and what nation? I have seen several paintings (see below...among others) where the ensign is flying from a staff in the stern. I had originally thought that was an error made by a landsman who never saw a ship underway and assumed since the saw the ensign flying there in port, it was there all the time. It made sense to me that the ensign would fly from the gaff as described by Tom in post 2. However, the more searching around I did, mostly on Revolutionary War ships, the more I found this phenomena.
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NO!!!! Do not plank the false deck first. Wait until the false deck, whether you use one piece or several, is securely in place BEFORE you plank.
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I'm not sure "most" do use full length planks. Looking at build logs, I see many new modelers using the full length planks on the double plank kits, but I see more seasoned modelers going the "scale length" route. Personally, I will use a full length plank at least once on either side, BUT will score it to make artificial butt ends. This gives me a good, continuous, even run along the entire length of the model and allows all the following strakes to set up properly.
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Dennis Bus by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - OcCre
Chuck Seiler replied to Mike Dowling's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Sure, why not. NRG is becoming a chapter of the International Plastic Model Society, with wooden models getting awards at IPMS shows. Why not wagons and vehicles. -
Never one to let an anthill go unmolested.... There are some that say the NIAGARA that was recovered and documented, and which all the models and replicas are based, is actually the QUEEN CHARLOTTE.
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How about Sepia ink? or Sepia mixed with a little basic brown?
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In theory, you use a frame template as a guide. The first layer of futtocks are placed...possibly glued to the paper. The second layer is added and a heavy flat object is placed on it to keep the assembly together and keep it flat. My experience is that when you place the heavy object, one or more of the top pieces can slide slightly, screwing up the frame. Unlike when building a frame blank (using the regular Hahn method), there is no room for error here. Good luck!!!!!
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Bob, I have the same kit. I wanted to do a Hahn, have plans for a couple different models, but was reluctant to start. The idea of the pre-cut futtocks appealed to me. Dave suggested he was going to put together a practicum to assist in this construction, but I have not seen it. One issue I have (and I will be watching to see how you deal with it) is how to properly connect each futtock to come up with the complete frame. I have some ideas, but... I have the Hahn "Colonial Schooners" book as well as a couple articles, but they deal with using the blanks. I shall pull up a chair and watch your progress.
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Kenny, Some may say that using the Lumberyard timbering set is not scratch building, but you will get no argument from me. That still requires a lot of skill and effort. I remember seeing a model of RALEIGH a dozen or so years ago at one of the SMA conferences. I want to say Clay Feldman made it, but not certain. It was a beautiful model!!! I look forward to your build.
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I know the original topic was "Prepare wood for acrylic paint", not "Acrylic Paint", but I wanted to chime in regarding the use of artists acrylics (out of a tube). While BADGER brand may not be available to you, I am sure artist acrylics are. I used to use BADGER almost exclusively, then I read some of Chuck P.'s posts on painting in his CONFEDERACY or WINCHELSEA logs. He uses many coats of highly diluted artist acrylics and comes up with a GREAT finish. Since I am a fan of the more earthy colors that one might find in the1 700s, rather than the artificially bright colors of today, I find these paints give me a lot more flexibility. I have at least 8 different hues of red. YOWZA. Anywho, just a thought.
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The ship would most certainly have a binnacle when underway. It's possible that the plans did not include it because; (a) ATALANTA had GPS or (b) it was not included because the binnacle was not built as part of the ship. It was a removable piece of 'furniture'. I suspect (b).
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Dan, This is a pretty non-hostile environment here. Occasionally you will see a low level barroom brawl break out, but that is merely a friendly disagreement among passionate ship modelers. Welcome aboard!!
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You can do something similar by going to "Content I follow". Click on "ACTIVITY" (top bar) then "MY ACTIVITY STREAMS" and "CONTENT I FOLLOW". Make sure you choose "CONDESNSED" or else it will have every post from every topic you follow. You can also set up Custom threads....but I am not too clear on that. I set that up for me (LOGS I FOLLOW) and I think I think it includes all topics and most of the news articles from Major League Baseball. "CONTENT I FOLLOW" is easier.
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It may not be a bad idea to use a dust mask when sanding ANY wood...just to be safe. I have oft heard that ebony can be very toxic. Personally, I have reactions to boxwood. When I forget to use a mask I get all wheezy and have respiratory issues for a few days.
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Bug, Superb! A fitting tribute to a fine man.
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I think you "Drag file here" or "Choose file" using the link at the bottom of the post. I had to place the pic where I wanted it rather than the old way.
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Mike, Keep in mind that a 'furled sail' is different than a 'stowed sail'. If a sail were completely removed from the yard, you may end up removing some or all of the running rigging as well. This would be dependent on the ship type. If the sails are just furled, you would need to be able to deploy the sail at short notice without having to re-rig the yard/mast/sail while underway.
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This may depend on whether you intend putting the model in a case and/or how big your display area is. I have seen some models (one of the GOKSTAD buildlogs) where the model was displayed with the oars out and the blades resting on the base. It looked great, but it made the model assembly almost twice as wide.
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