Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

Landlubber Mike

NRG Member
  • Posts

    4,460
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Landlubber Mike

  1. Looks great Kevin! What did you use for the hull red if you don't mind me asking?
  2. The disc sander is one of my most used tools too. It was a big game changer for me.
  3. Very nice! That looks like a fantastic kit. Great to see subjects other than 18th century British warships with dozens of cannons
  4. Nice work Kevin. If I was handy with photoshop, I’d create a “Kevin the Riveter” picture like the old “Rosie the Riveter” pictures.
  5. Nice Kevin. Did the kit come with the brass barrels or are they aftermarket?
  6. Kevin, this is the picture from the Pontos upgrade set for the Revell 1:144 Snowberry. From what I can tell, the Parkins set for the 1:72 Snowberry kit will probably replace/enhance even more than the Pontos upgrades for the 1:144 kit.
  7. Awesome! I love the lines in this ship, can’t wait to see where you go with it! I bought a FSM back issue that had an article on a Yahagi build. Was beautiful- took the guy 800+ hours if I remember correctly. Not exactly sure why.
  8. Jeff, I’m like you and prefer to use different woods rather than paint. Woods that are available in strips are walnut, cherry and mahogany. You can also take a wood like pear and stain it. I’m doing the same on my Pegasus and La Renommee builds. For Pegasus, since it’s copper plated, I went with a black lower hull (just used kit walnut), pear stained walnut for the upper hull, with boxwood stained blue and red heart for accents. For my Renommee, I’m planning to use walnut for the lower hull and cherry for the upper hull and deck (and masts). I found some cherry veneer sheets and dowels at Woodcraft, and am going to use the lighter cherry on the deck and darker for upper hull. Pear is a nicer wood to work with than walnut, and takes stains well. Still have to make sure you get the stain even, which can be tricky on bigger areas. I actually like the look of walnut and darker hulls generally, though I know a lot of people prefer lighter hulls planked with woods like boxwood.
  9. Amazing work Greg. What a masterpiece! Shows how beautiful plastic kits can work into when in a skilled modeler’s hands. Will look forward to your next ones!
  10. Both came out fantastic! I hope mine comes out half as nice. On your Yukikaze, did you add anchor chains to the bow? Or were the chains molded into the deck piece? I'm wondering what to do with the Shimakaze, where Hasegawa decided to mold them into the deck. The chains are pretty crisp, and I can probably pick them out with paint, but it seems to me that it would look more realistic with better depth if I installed my own chains.
  11. Wow, very nice indeed! Is that the Yahagi? You has asked about the Tamiya turntables. I finally got my order in. There’s a small one with two spring bars that hold your parts. The larger one comes with clips and holes (for example, that can hold those alligator clips on a stick things) for a lot of versatility. I can see getting a lot of use out of them for vehicle and Gundam work. I do think they can come in handy for doing ship assemblies and even for holding the ship’s hull.
  12. Nice Kevin! I was thinking of bidding on that auction but went with the Shimakaze as a slightly easier first start. Nice choice!
  13. Absolutely amazing work. I have to say, you're one of the best builders on this site. Your lines, etc. are just so clean and precise. I'm very jealous
  14. I'm in for this one too. Looks like you're good to go and the extra details will make for a fantastic build!
  15. It doesn't look like the Infini set provided anchor chains. The look pretty good to me, but I wonder if having actual chains would just look a little better. Would take some work for sure to replace the kit chains. Another thing I might replace is the bollards. They seem to be in scale, but don't have a bottom plate. I got some from Alliance Model Works that might fit the bill. I might try painting to see if I like them. I almost feel it would be easier to remove, paint the deck, then add new chains. Not sure if I'll be able to paint the chain cleanly at such a small scale. Big thank you for the heads up on the life boats! Hey Jeff! With Kevin, you and me, it looks like we will have the IJN Destroyer Club ready to go. 😁 Not sure I'd follow my lead as I haven't done a plastic kit in probably 35 years, aside from a quick snap-together kit with my daughter a year ago. If you're looking to get a detail add-on set for the Shimakaze, the Infini is a really nice one. I forgot where I ordered it from, but it might have been from a place in the UK as I couldn't locate one here in the US. As I mentioned above, if you get the Infini, the Hasegawa detail set is pretty much unnecessary. The Infini is more expensive than the Hasegawa, but also more expansive. And where Hasegawa uses PE to enhance the already good kit plastic parts, Infini in some cases (like some of the gun platforms and guns themselves) just replaces the kit plastic part with something entirely from PE. Also, when it comes to the linoleum deck, Infini makes the brass bars that can be applied to the kit deck (they prepped each bar individually). If you're ok with that, you won't need the Hasegawa linoleum deck add-on. I'll probably go with Hasegawa add-on because it already includes the brass bars and is in the linoleum color (it looks like a appliqué). Plus, at this stage, I don't know if I'm masochistic enough to glue those tiny Infini bars to the kit deck.
  16. Here's a picture of the deck at the bow - the chains are pretty nicely done, but I'm wondering about painting them. Is it possible to replace them with actual chains, and if so, is it even worth it? Might be easier to paint/weather chains separately off the model than try to paint them as part of this piece. For reference, this part is probably only 2 inches long 😳
×
×
  • Create New...