mtdoramike

Nor mine, but they are neat. Thanks for sharing Keith, I can see what you spent your Holiday weekend doing hahahahahaha.

A fellow modeler reached out to me this afternoon and offered to send me 6 barrels that he created on his 3d printer. We will see how well they will work.

Here is a picture of the barrels. 

But those brass barrels sure do look good, It really pains me to paint brass.

4 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

I have used all the fittings provided by Billing Boats. The hull requires a significant amount of lead/weight to be in its flotation lines.

My boat has sailed on the Mediterranean sea (inside a harbor) and never capsized. You should be perfectly fine with the brass barrels.

 

Yves

The reason for significant hullo ballast inside the hull has to do alot with weight above the waterline. With this plastic hull being so light, it will require quite a bit of dead weight just to get it to sit appropriately in the water. I have been told by a couple of others that built this model to try and keep it as light as possible from the deck upward and after seeing the weight of all these brass fittings I can see why. I'm going go as though I'm going to use the brass barrels, but if I can find a decent lighter alternative I will go with it. Wish I knew someone with a 3d printer. One good thing, I can always replace them later if I decide to. 

I can't believe Billings used SOLID brass foir the deck barrels, 6 of them no less. That's one thing about Billings, they don't cheap out on their fittings. But, and there's always a but: these brass barrels weigh a good pound and a half to two pounds, which is way to much weight for any structure above the waterline unless you want to add a ton of ballast weight in the hull. I'm going to replace the brass tuned barrels with 1/2" wooden dowel rod, which will weigh considerably less. We'll see how they turn out, if I don't like them I can always resort back to the brass one's.  

A little spit and polish and you won't know the difference.

Yep, I has some indentations on the sides of the hull just below the top deck. So I had to fill them with plastic putty after roughing up the plastic hull a bit to insure proper adhesion. 

I spent a little time working on a few detail parts like the copter and mini-sub as well as finishing the top deck house.

I spent a little time working on a few detail parts like the copter and mini-sub as well as finishing the top deck house.

Beautiful job so far, it's a pain to keep those gun ports aligned isn't it:)

Someone needs to grab this kit, it's pretty much complete with all the detail packaging as well as all the running hardware from motors to speed controllers. I would have been tempted had I not just picked up a Trumpeter USS Missouri. 

I suggest you post a picture of the actual Merit Hornet kit itself.

I have built numerous A.L. kits over the past 30 years from the HMS Victory to a paddle wheeler and have nothing but good things to say about Latina products.

3 hours ago, lmagna said:

Been there, done that, more than once. Why is it that when there are a group of RC boaters, that ALL of the boats seem to have to group into the same small space when there is a whole lake to run in?

That is like asking the question, (why is it always when my boat is furtherest away from me that my motor decides to stop working?).

I was able to spend a little time on the Calyso the past few days.

1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

Mike. Can you post the actual build in the proper log area because if goes any further here, I'll be way off topic on this section of MSW?   Thanks.  

No problem Mark, this was never intended to be a build log only a topic of conversation. I will most definately do a proper build log in the appropriate forum when I get started on it, which will be a few months yet. Hopefully we will be able to tie this thread in with the build log. 

They have a ton of hop up upgrades for these Trumpeter kits and the Missouri is no exception. I'm probably going to build it straight out of the box, with a few exceptions, I would like to put a wooden deck on it and maybe some brass turned cannon or guns. Don't get me wrong, the Craig said the kit can be built straight out of the box and get a fine model and looking through everything I agree. But I have seen some brass turned guns for a Trumpeter Bismarck and you could tell the difference between the molded guns and the brass turned guns. So eventhough the guns will be painted ( to me it's almost a crime to paint beautifully turned brass) but we'll see. 

Yeah, I suspect that is why the running gear package is setup for a two screw operation. The dummy props woulod have to be for display only because I can see where they we cause a bit of drag if not operational. I know what you mean about space Lou, the model as well as the real deal takes a lot of room to turn, although battle ships weren't as bad as carriers for needing plenty of ocean. 

These are some of the extras I received with the kit. The props and prop shafts are for a two screw setup, which is a default setup for most of these battle ship builds. But the actual ship I believe was a 4 screw.

Absolutely beautiful work.

Popeye, you sound like me. I can do anything tomorrow, I can climb Mt. Everest tomorrow, I can become President tomorrow, I can travel around the world tomorrow. Tomorrow, the greatest word ever created. I used that word often when my wife gives me that honey do list. Hopefully for you and Lou, that one day will be tomorrow. 

Thanks, inbetween fence building in the backyard and spending the weekend with my grand babies, I was able to spend a little time on the Calypso. 

started installation of the stuffing tubes, rudders and supports.

finally got the two 380 motors and brackets. 

I haven't glued it down yet, awaiting the drive train motors and mounts to come in before I lock it down. It will be easier doing all that stuff before gluing down the main cabin.