mtdoramike

It appears all of the super structures have been built. The hull requires some light sanding and then it should be ready to lay fiberglass cloth to seal it. Now for the not so good news. This is an older Billings kit and for anyone who doesn';t know, older Billings kit did nor does include the fittings packages, which were sold separately. This kit did not include the fittings package. Now, finding a fittings package is like finding hens teeth, nothing on Ebay, which is my go to source for hard to finds things. Ages Of Sail, offers the fittings package, but are out of stock. So this leaves me with a few options which are overseas one of which is Cornwall models. The cost of the fittinds package alone makes you say your kidding at $174.00 that ain't shipped folks and with the supply chain, getting it here might be the bigger issue of the two. To give you an example, if I were to buy the fittings separately, the two brass anchor trawling line winches are $100.00 for the two.   

OK, works for me, I was considering it more of a finishing log. Thanks.

Well if this is your first wooden sdhip build, congrats beause your work is superb. 

On 10/27/2021 at 6:52 AM, MIR said:

New here, looking to build my first ship model. I do have considerable model building experience with plastic kits, mostly armor and the like but never have attempted a ship of any sort. I like ships from the 17 and 18 centuries.  Either wood or plastic........... and yes, the rigging scares the heck out of me which is probably why I have never attempted one for 40 something years in model building

Run don't walk to the nearest exit and look for another hobby........, just kidding, ship modeling can be fun and rewarding. Rigging is my favorite part of ship modeling, it's what brings the model to life and makes people Ooooo and awwww over it. There are books on thre fundementals of boat rigging and once you realize they are all basically rigged the same, it becomes fun although a bit mind numbing at times.   

What a beautiful ship, great work on her.

Oh boy, can't wait to see this beauty take shape.

You are making hewr proud.

Absolutely stunning work. People don't appreciate how hard it is to do really fine work on smaller scale projects. You have done an fantastic job. 

Thanks Bob, the previous builder did very well on the build.

A Billings Nordkap R/C finishing boat. A ladies husband recently passed away while working on this kit. I was asked if I would accept it and finish it, which I humbly agreed to do. I was not only humbled, but honored that I would be asked to do so. I will strive to make his vision for this model a reality and make her all se can be.

I have several projects going, but couldn't say no, nor did I want to.  

Upon looking at the portion of the hull where the copper plating is showing, it looks really good, but it also appears to be peeling away from the hull. If this is the case, did you seal the hull first before plating it? I always sell the hull with a few coats of poly or varnish before plating, the plating will not stick very well to bare wood.

What a shame not to finish such a beautiful model and your work seems to be quite good. 

12 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

If comparing the Caldercraft and long-promised Amati kits, one thing to remember is the scale difference.  Caldercraft is a really big model at 1/72 scale.  Amati I believe is going to be even bigger at 1/64.

Yeah and we all know bigger doesn't necessarily mean better. 

On 10/22/2021 at 4:43 PM, BikerMart said:

That was what my wife said, too. Pointing at other incomplete projects around the house.....

I agree, most if not all Victory kits or builds require 2-5 years to complete. Now with that out of the way, back to your question, which I hate and which pops up every now and again whether it be a victory, constitution or what ever. A boat or ship model kit is a kit is a kit is a kit, no more no less. I have built well over 100 kits of various subjects over the years by many manufactures and have found that all kits no matter of the manufacture are good quality kits. Now whether the subject model builds into an acceptable representation of the subject is totally up to you AND NOT THE KIT. A kit is only a starting point of the journey you choose to take, but the quality of the build will be all on you as the builder. To me, the research of the subject is far more important than the quality of the kit, which can be changed, manipulated into what ever you want it to be. My point is, if you find something not historically accurate about the model per the kit, change it and make it so.

You will never get a museum quality model from a kit even though the manufactures touts it as such. I rarely ever build a model based on the kit. To me the kit is only the starting point. So to answer your question, all of them and none of them.

I would love to see it built as rc operational. 

Beautiful work.

yeah, my go to cloth is 2oz cloth 

Oooo, I often wanted to build this Sterling kit. Are you building for Radio Control use or static display? She is looking magnificent so far.

I hope to see some build logs started and these free orphaned kits actually being built and not just continue to collect dust in another place. 

I always build a wooden frame around the model, staple cardboard to the exterior of the frame and fill the void with packing material. I have only had one model get damaged by Fedex out of close to 100 models shipped.

Well there is your answers, your hopes and dreams dashed in an instant. But on the bright side, there are other Wasa kits on the market just as worthy of your hopes and dreams. Like I always say, a kit is only the beginning of that journey, it's up to the builder to make it special.   

I should have mentioned that like all orphaned kits that I adopt usually show up with missing parts, in a total mess and this orphan didn't disappoint hahaha. I have begun the transformation by stretching her out 3", adding another number 4 frame as well as another number 5 frame. You can see the additions with the lighter colored wood. 

Here is my latest project, a Dumas 1955 Cobra kit that was "yes" an orphaned kit that a friend sent to me. But I will not be building this to kit specs. It will be moderate to heavily modified. The original 18' Cobra as with the 21' Cobra was notorious for poor handling, especially in turns and the stern or transome sat so low in the water that there had to be a cut water edge added to the rear sides and transome to keep the boat from being swamped. The kit is no exception. Now, the first modification probably won't help with the mechanics of operation, but will mainly be cosmetic because it is my kit and I can do what I want to it, which will be stretching the front section of the boat 3" from the cockpit forward. This will give it more of a front deck and look more proportional than the original which was 27" in length. But now it will be 30" in length. 

Next, I will try and address the stern section by building it up by 1/4" to 3/8" to give it a better profile in the water and hopefully help with the swamping issues. Lastly, I will address a glaring issue from the kit to the actual Cobra boat, which is the design of the transome (see picture). Hopfully this all goes well because with every action there is a reaction, so I will have to see which problems are caused by each modification.

You can see the corrected version of frame 9. In the photo of the two Cobra's, you can see the corrected transome on the Cobra to the right. These were compliments of Gary, a friend of mine. 

Wish me luck!  

WOW, talk about ambition.