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Ryland Craze

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Posts posted by Ryland Craze

  1. This past Saturday, the Richmond Chapter of the IPMS held their annual Old Dominion Open Model Contest and Show.  I entered my Medway Longboat in the Wooden Ship Model category and was awarded the first place gold medal.  I was surprised at taking the gold medal.  This shows how well this kit is designed and how it builds into a very fine model.  I also want to thank those that post their builds on MSW as I am still learning techniques and getting ideas that help improve my modeling skills.  Also, a special thank you goes out to the manufacturers that are turning out some fantastic kits that allow us to build these beautiful models.

     

    Here is a picture of my medal.  I hope to build a display case for my Medway and it will definitely be displayed alongside my model.

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    Here is a photo of the second place model by Stewart Winn.  It is a scratch built bomb ketch:

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    Third place went to Lou Husser of the Washington Ship Model Society with his Midwest kit of a Muscungus Bay Lobster Smack:

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    Below are photos of the Hampton Roads Ship Model Society and the Washington Ship Model Society displays at the show.  In the forefront of the first photo is the Destroyer Escort Kendall C. Campbell that was recently completed by Gene Berger.

     

    The Hampton Roads Ship Model Society:

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    The Washington Ship Model Society:

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    It was a fun day for all that attended and I am looking forward to next year's show.

  2. It sounds like the Medway Longboat kit from Syren Ship Model Company would be an excellent kit for planking.  Chuck provides easy to understand instructions for this build.  Here is a link to the Medway Longboat build logs: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/77-medway-long-boat-1742-public-group-project/

     

    You can download the instructions for this kit at this link: https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/medway-longboat-1742.php

     

  3. On my model, the wales pretty much followed the top of the frames.  I do recall that I had to trim down a couple of the frame tips at the bow and the stern to get them to be even with the top of the cap rail.  The most important thing is that you want a smooth sweeping sheer while leaving a 1/16" gap at the bow and stern for the cap rail.  No two models will be the same.  You also want the tops of the frames to be even with the top of the wale as this is what the cap rail is glued to.  The frame tips will be sanded down later in the build when the frame centers are removed.  You also want a consistent height of the wales on the port and starboard sides to prevent problems with alignment further into the build.

  4. I would put the top wale on first to give you the correct run of the sheer and also see how far you are off with the bottom layer of planks.  You could make a new wider bottom wale plank to see what it would look like.  If you are happy with the look, then go with it.  Just remember that you will have a printed frieze and moulding strip to be mounted on your wale.

  5. Rick, You did a nice job on your planking.  All of the joints and fitting of the planks into the rabbet look great.  You will have to address the gaps in the bow and stern.  You still have the wales to install.  I would add a small strip of wood on top of the top plank from the bow back to the joint at the fifth frame leaving a 1/16" gap for the caprail at the bow. At the stern, you will only need a small strip of wood along four or five frames to leave the 1/16" gap.  The next step would be to install the wales (second set of planks) leaving a 1/16" gap for the caprail at the bow and stern.  The top edge of the wales may not match the run of the filler pieces, but you would sand the top edges of the planks to make a smooth sheer.  The wales would cover up your patchwork.  Your wales may not match the first layer of planks, but this is the only fix I could come up with without a lot of rework.

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